Converter and batteries

[AnaBird]

I have a 2008 Wind sport.
I'm reaching out to you because I'm really at a loss and I'm not satisfied with the answers I'm getting from the battery guy.
I'm having battery issues. While in storage, both the chassis battery and the house batteries are disconnected and discharge, which I'm told is a normal occurrence. However, I've had to replace the chassis battery twice within 10 months. When I plug into shore power, the house batteries discharge. I say this because when I turn on the battery connect switch, the LED light indicator doesn't turn on. I've had the batteries checked today and battery guy tells me that all the batteries are charged. However, when I reconnect the house battery switch, I cannot get the ceiling lights to turn on. When I connect the chassis battery switch the stairs do roll out. I can start the engine and the generator. Could it be that the converter is not recharging the house batteries when plugged in to Shore power? I've checked the circuit breaker for the converter and it has not been tripped.
Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

[gmc]

Originally Posted by AnaBird

While in storage, both the chassis battery and the house batteries are disconnected and discharge, which I'm told is a normal occurrence. However, I've had to replace the chassis battery twice within 10 months.

This is NOT normal - though unfortunately more common than it should be... The disconnect SHOULD disconnect everything - and coach should be able to be stored for a month or more with no issues of dead battery.
You can either chase where the draw is coming from - or add additional disconnects that really do the job.
These batteries don't tolerate being drawn to 'dead' and after doing so multiple times I wouldn't be surprised they need to be replaced.

Originally Posted by AnaBird

When I plug into shore power, the house batteries discharge. I say this because when I turn on the battery connect switch, the LED light indicator doesn't turn on. I've had the batteries checked today and battery guy tells me that all the batteries are charged. However, when I reconnect the house battery switch, I cannot get the ceiling lights to turn on. When I connect the chassis battery switch the stairs do roll out. I can start the engine and the generator. Could it be that the converter is not recharging the house batteries when plugged in to Shore power? I've checked the circuit breaker for the converter and it has not been tripped.
Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

Definitely want to check out the converter... With batteries DISCONNECTED (so you aren't reading battery voltage) you should read well over 12V from the outputs of the converter (12-14). If not - it won't be properly charging and your batteries will only be charged from the alternator when the engine is running.

Also verify the connect/disconnect switch (not the switch you press - but the actual switch/relay it is attached to..) You should hear a solid click when flipping the switch - and should be able to verify operation with a voltmeter. (Want to be disconnected from shore power/genny for this one - as you want to read battery voltage and not converter...)
Should have 12V on input - and either 12v or 0v on output depending on switch position.

Hope that helps...

[AnaBird]

Originally Posted by gmc

Also verify the connect/disconnect switch (not the switch you press - but the actual switch/relay it is attached to..) You should hear a solid click when flipping the switch - and should be able to verify operation with a voltmeter. (Want to be disconnected from shore power/genny for this one - as you want to read battery voltage and not converter...)
Should have 12V on input - and either 12v or 0v on output depending on switch position.

Hope that helps...

Where would I find the connect/disconnect switch to verify? I definitely do not hear a solid click when I flip on the connect switch by the entry door.
Thank you...

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by AnaBird

Where would I find the connect/disconnect switch to verify? I definitely do not hear a solid click when I flip on the connect switch by the entry door.
Thank you...

That is the switch he is talking about. Between that switch and the actual disconnect relay there is a fuse, could be any where.

The connect/disconnect otherwise called use/store switch has nothing to do with chassis battery beyond letting it charge when on shore power at least for our Axis.

Batteries normal self discharge about 2% per month under no load conditions.
For an RV there is always some load on them. There will also be some load on the chassis battery at all times because of computers used for controlling the engine/emissions.

A trickle charger is usually the best answer for most people.

After 10 months if the chassis battery was bad it should be replaced under full warranty. While not normal it could have just been a defective battery.

[AnaBird]

Originally Posted by scrubjaysnest

That is the switch he is talking about. Between that switch and the actual disconnect relay there is a fuse, could be any where.

The connect/disconnect otherwise called use/store switch has nothing to do with chassis battery beyond letting it charge when on shore power at least for our Axis.

I looked in the fuse box, inside, below the bed and I didn't find the fuse to the switch. I also followed the positive house battery cable looking for a reset but I didn't find that either. Are there service/repair manuals for RVs as there are for cars? Is there not a standard location for this fuse?

I considered a trickle charger as you suggested, but there is no access to electricity nor sunlight in storage.

[Beau388]

My symptoms were: engine alternator would charge the house batteries but the generator and shore line would not. I check the converter/charger output and it was 13.6 volts. Pulled the positive lead from the converter charger off the house battery - 1.2 volts. 60 amp circuit breaker in the battery compartment was not tripped. I asked Thor to send me a 12 volt circuit diagram. The circuit diagram is a complicated mess, but blowing it up, I was able to see a relay in the charging circuit. I pulled the relay and drove to my RV dealer and had them check it -bad. Came home with a new $69.95 relay. Everything works as it should.

[AnaBird]

Originally Posted by Beau388

I check the converter/charger output and it was 13.6 volts. Pulled the positive lead from the converter charger off the house battery - 1.2 volts. 60 amp circuit breaker in the battery compartment was not tripped.

I got a new house battery. The disconnect switch "clicks". I followed the noise and it's under the hood. I checked the output of the converter/charger and it was less than 1 volt. I looked at the breaker and it's not tripped. I looked in the fuse box and I realized that the board needs replacing. I think this is getting complicated. Any suggestions?

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by AnaBird

I got a new house battery. The disconnect switch "clicks". I followed the noise and it's under the hood. I checked the output of the converter/charger and it was less than 1 volt. I looked at the breaker and it's not tripped. I looked in the fuse box and I realized that the board needs replacing. I think this is getting complicated. Any suggestions?

While what you have circled looks like over heating the board itself may not be bad.
Have you checked the converter output for voltage with the battery disconnected? If the converter is say a WFCO8955 then the plus wire may be red while the negative or ground is white. There is no guaranty that the plus and minus wires are that color though. Each coach is almost custom built instead of everything being standard.
If you didn't find an inline fuse to the isolation relay coil relay it maybe a plug in on the relay itself. Not a problem at the moment since you say it is working.

For the converter itself they are fairly easy to change out. Hot, neutral, and ground for the AC side and plus and minus wires for the DC side. Two to four screws for converter itself if it is bad. There is usually a pair 40 amp fuses on the DC side of the converter. These are usually located on the DC distribution panel and are for reverse polarity protection.
If that is what you circled in the photo and what looks like over heating may require removal of the circuit board and the connections cleaned and re-soldered where you have circled.

[tinker3030]

My house batteries won't hold a charge either. 2017 Quantam house batteries show good charge when engine is running, and everything in coach works. Turn off engine and batteries show low voltage dropping down as you look at inverter panel.

[Frankomd]

Hi there. I’m new to the forum. I’m picking up my new 2019 Freedom Traveler A30 shortly and am trying to determine how the OEM charger works. Is it such that I can leave the rig plugged in at home for long periods without “frying” my house batteries? My 2007 Itasca couldn’t be left plugged in without harming the batts. TYIA.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Frankomd

Hi there. I’m new to the forum. I’m picking up my new 2019 Freedom Traveler A30 shortly and am trying to determine how the OEM charger works. Is it such that I can leave the rig plugged in at home for long periods without “frying” my house batteries? My 2007 Itasca couldn’t be left plugged in without harming the batts. TYIA.

If your converter is working correctly the answer is "YES". If it never goes into float mode (about 13.1 VDC) then the answer would be "NO".

[javelin]

Originally Posted by AnaBird

I got a new house battery. The disconnect switch "clicks". I followed the noise and it's under the hood. I checked the output of the converter/charger and it was less than 1 volt. I looked at the breaker and it's not tripped. I looked in the fuse box and I realized that the board needs replacing. I think this is getting complicated. Any suggestions?

Hi. Well a 2008 Windsport probably has a BCC (battery Control Cabinet) made by RV Custom Products located in the engine compartment. If yes, that is where your coach and chassis battery latching relays are located and the emergency start interconnect relay as well. Plus for add "excitement" there is the 50 amp resettable circuit breaker that connects the converter (coach battery charger) to the coach batteries when the coach latching relay is on. But.....while I don't recognize your coach fuse panel, it looks to me like those two burnt fuse positions off to the side might be the reverse polarity fuses. They blow when someone tries to hook up the batteries to the converter in reverse polarity. If I am correct you will need to replace the fuses (in my ACE they are listed as 40 amp fuses) and you should also investigate if the fuse holders and surrounding circuit board are damaged also. You might get lucky and replacing the fuses......with correct polarity of converter to coach batteries.....will result in normal converter charging voltage to your coach batteries of 13.1 vdc or higher. The fuse board may spec the fuse size to use (may not be 40 amp like on my coach). Try that for starters and lets see how far that gets to solving your charging problems. Hopefully you have your own voltmeter.....it is essential for owning an RV.