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Old 03-28-2019, 06:27 PM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Windsport 29m
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THOR #8069
Ford F53 Fuse location

I am looking for the fuse that is for the cruise control? I found to fuse boxes under the dash just about where your left foot would be and another fuse box under the hood above the motor. Just can't find the one for the Cruise Control.
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Old 03-28-2019, 07:39 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Ron1Z View Post
I am looking for the fuse that is for the cruise control? I found to fuse boxes under the dash just about where your left foot would be and another fuse box under the hood above the motor. Just can't find the one for the Cruise Control.
Fuses #1 and # 6 under the hood control the cruse control module. The info is in you Ford F-53 manual as is the fuse diagram. The fuse panel down by the drivers left foot is for all the equipment in the front cap installed by Thor MC. The known exceptions are the 12 volt power plug fuse which is in the under hood fuse compartment and the forward radio memory where the fuse is behind the radio.
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Old 03-28-2019, 08:29 PM   #3
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Thanks for the fast reply, still waiting for Ford to call me back. My question with your ansewer is
#1 says Power brake assist module
#6 says Interment panel dimmer module park lamps tow

No mention of cruise control or as Ford calls it speed control
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Old 08-12-2019, 06:45 PM   #4
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2013 ACE 30.1
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THOR #2631
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Originally Posted by Ron1Z View Post
Thanks for the fast reply, still waiting for Ford to call me back. My question with your ansewer is
#1 says Power brake assist module
#6 says Interment panel dimmer module park lamps tow

No mention of cruise control or as Ford calls it speed control



Ron1Z did you find which fuse(s) controlled your cruise control? My fuses also don't jive with Beau's fuse assignment descriptions. I could pull every one in the Power Dist Box in the engine compartment but if we know which ones are suspect......I would prefer that. So I also just had an issue with cruise not coming on.....not the brake master cylinder switch (it has continuity when brake is off); but no 12vdc on either pin of the mating female connector that plugs on the master cylinder switch so I am assuming blown fuse and that the fuse is hot at all times. Thanks.
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Old 08-17-2019, 09:34 PM   #5
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An update on my recent “no cruise dash light” and non working cruise control problem for anyone who may be interested or has had; or has this problem currently. Still not resolved, but slowly puttering on it when time allows since it does not compete with the top of the DW’s job jar list.
Unfortunately, I don’t have an accurate 2012 Ford schematic for the F53 cruise (speed control module affecting ccts) and the only two I could find on line are attached for excitement. One for a 1999 F53 and the other not really sure other than its Ford (I think).
I thought previously that I had a blown fuse because looking at the 1999 schematic (first one I found) it shows the redundant brake safety switch fused from “always hot” 12vdc. The other schematic shows the redundant brake safety switch and cruise control module powered via fuse (schematic right side) when ignition is on only.
Rather than pull multiple fuses in the engine bay Power Dist Box (PDB) hoping to find a blown one affecting my cruise control, I simply rechecked the redundant brake pressure switch on the master cylinder.....still good (continuity when brake is not pressed) and its mating 2 wire female connector......this time with ignition on......now I get the 12vdc that I did not see in previous testing. Now at least I know the 12vdc for this redundant brake pressure switch to cruise module disablement link is powered when “ignition is on” and brake is off only. So the dated schematics are not directly applicable as suspected, but now I have to start looking elsewhere like steering wheel cruise on/off switch; or BPP (brake pedal position) switch. The strange thing is the brake lights work fine (ignition off) so a complete BPP brake pedal position switch schematic for the 2012 F53 would be a nice to have. I really don’t want to do the “human pretzel” under the dash.......in case I stay that way. It would also be nice to know where the actual cruise (speed control module is), but I am hoping for a bad switch or broken wire somewhere easy before a module replacement. Horn pad would be easier to remove to check cruise switches......but the brake pedal gets more cycles by far. Also of note, there are no OBD2 DTC/FF codes showing in memory......was hoping cruise issue might show up with some specifics.
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:51 AM   #6
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So another update, but no solution yet regarding my 2013 ACE 30.1 cruise control’s recent failure to turn on/work. When time allowed, I continued to putter on this non-critical problem without accurate schematics.
Carrying on from previous tests, I thought the brake pedal switch might be a more likely failure point based on its high use over the years; whereas the cruise on/off switches are used considerably less often. So accessing the brake switch was pretty easy. The OBD2 connector had to be removed first with 2 screws. Then just remove two more screws and a couple plastic retainer pins and the under steering column cover drops down out of the way. Easy access to the Ford brake switch was now possible. The brake lights work fine, but my ACE brake switch has 4 pins. This brake switch also seems to be two totally separate switches in the one body: one to operate the brake lights (pins 1 , 4) and the others (pins 2, 3) to enable/inhibit cruise control. They may have other functions also, but I have no way to know that. I did some meter tests on the connector and on the switch itself and “unfortunately” I think it is working as I would expect (guessing a bit without proper schematics). That is, with brake pedal off the cruise control pins are normally closed which connects chassis ground to the cruise sense lead (may go to PCM or some cruise/speed sense module?). Also the brake light switch portion is normally open. When the brake pedal is operated both switches function into their opposite mode OK. I am attaching a schematic based on my voltage and continuity measurements if it helps anyone else.


Then I thought I should probably also check the cruise dash lamp to make sure it is not burned out although the cruise did not work after it failed close to home on the last camping trip. Again very easy access to the rear Ford dash gauge module and light bulbs by turning two black screw heads 1/4 turn so they release the dash top access panel over the Ford gauges. Never had such easy access to dash bulbs before.....but again, the cruise bulb is fine.


So last thing was accessing the on/off switches on the steering wheel for testing. You can easily remove the plastic switch “on/off” labelled cover button by very carefully pushing on the horn side of the switch button near the pivot point and prying it up gently. The cover button pops off exposing the on/off switches and circuit (picture attached). I was hoping for micro switches (easy to test), but instead I got calculator style carbon coated rubber switch contact surfaces on the button portion that short out the copper circuit board areas designated “on” and “off”. Again even when manually shorting the “on” surface with a metal tool while having the ignition on (but engine not started) brings no light from the “cruise enabled” lamp on the dash. So there is not much else that I can easily test without schematics and might have to defer to a local Ford Stealer if I can find one locally that accepts Rv’s. Not sure pulling the horn panel in the steering wheel will expose much that I can test......clock springs perhaps; cruise button wire connectors. I might just live without the cruise the rest of this season unless someone has other suggestions/solutions to their recent (2010 year plus) cruise control failures.
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:54 PM   #7
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
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Well finally some success with the 2013 ACE cruise control.......found the problem.......it was the guy who sits behind the wheel.

So I thought the cruise had quit in the last mile of returning home from our previous camping trip because I had shut off the cruise using the steering wheel button (cruise light went out on dash ok)......then tried to re-engage it again just prior to getting home and no cruise light on the dash. Came off the freeway into residential and did not try the “set”.

So fast forward after puttering on the easy cruise trouble shooting stuff to test in the driveway; we set out on our latest and possibly last trip of this season last weekend. So push on the cruise button (no dash lamp again)......speed up over 30mph-ish and press cruise “set” button......cruise lamp comes on and it is working. WTH ? So apparently it was always working, I just thought the cruise lamp always came on first when you press the cruise “on” button on the steering wheel......nope. Press cruise “on” (no indication that it is actually on that I can see), then speed up over 30mph approx and press “set” and the cruise lamp comes on the dash. So after 7 years of driving this coach I seem to be still learning things......or perhaps confused it with our toad (2014 Honda CRV)......which does have a lamp on when the cruise is switched “on”......then when you “set” your speed there is a second lamp that comes on.
The good part of all this, is I learned a lot about some of the typical problem areas for some F53 chassis cruise (speed control) failure mechanisms and how easy the cruise related components actually are to access (per my previous posts)......and I also learned how poor the Ford Canada email contact response and local Ford Dealers’ response is in dealing with inquiries about stripped chassis Ford repair. I hope that I never need any major Ford system repaired on the ACE while I own it......if I do, I might go find a Ford Dealer in a small town (outside of the major cities here) where heavy duty chassis repair seems more typical for farming folks (who don't do their own repairs). Glad to have my cruise back......that was always actually working.....the driver just needed the "tune up".
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