Help? Dead Chassis Battery

[The_Breeze]

Originally Posted by vegasruv24.1

thanks for the kind words but like I said, I'm not one to just keep throwing parts at something, and would rather figure it out, If I can't,.. I take it to someone that can... but first I like to make sure it's not something basic and easy for me to fix

Vegas & Kickstand: Ditto. Thank you. I tested house batteries. 13.1v hooked to shore. Chassis, 12.45v. It was 12.58 last evening at dusk so it dropped that much overnight.

I think Kickstand and I are in the same boat. I found the solenoid and the delay relay so I guess I need to do what he/she did. Thanks again for your info. Just doesn't apply to my situation. You have the Class A style coach and Thor said they do that. The Class Cs don't, at least mine doesn't seem to.

Also appears I've been a little negligent and have some maintenance to do next time she's dry docked.

[The_Breeze]

Originally Posted by Beau388

It should. All plant 750 coaches come with BIRD and Trombetta module near the house battery compartment.

How do you tell where your coach was built (which plant)?

[10scDust]

TheBreeze, you may be on this path already, a good tip after cleaning those connections, is to apply some de-oxidizer grease to help dissuade the corrosion from coming back any time soon.
Once it is in the connection, you may only need to smother some on the outside during an inspection at a later date.
I found mine getting that way too, that's what I did cleaning them.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by TheBreeze

How do you tell where your coach was built (which plant)?

Well you could go on a plant tour or just look at at the list of models available on the factory tour link on the Thor Motor Coach website. The Thor Industries annual report also list the output of each factory.

[10scDust]

Update on my system charging dilemma;

*note: my alternator, on the engine for chassis battery, does not have an issue, it works fine.

I found the same system as what TheBreeze has pictured, in post #41 above, and I found it hidden by the radiator reservoir from a tip vegasruv24.1 had given me.

My testing of it, I cleaned all connections, including the ground (even bringing a ground wire straight from the battery to the fender connection), put de-ox grease in all connections, then performed the lights on test as vegasruv24.1 suggested.
Plugged into shore power, new converter working great, turned ignition key to on, engine not running, set up multi meter to read chassis battery so I could monitor situation, turned lights (high beams) and fog lamps on.

Once chassis battery dropped to 11.9vdc, waited five minutes watching it go to 11.6vdc before concluding this test.
No "clunk" solenoid engagement sound.

Removed the solenoid and tried to energize field to make it work, nada.
Tapped on it and all.
So I determined it was in need of replacement.
The tag read Trombetta 684-1251-012 and the module Isolator Relay Delay 00-00629-120.

At this time, it is all installed in original configuration and waiting, I am tedious and have all the wiring documented, hand drawn, and pictures, from before disassembly.

At this point, I decided to replace both units with a Precision Circuits BIM 225, it seemed the best way to go.
So until it arrives by mail order...

[The_Breeze]

Originally Posted by 10scDust

...Removed the solenoid and tried to energize field to make it work, nada.
...The tag read Trombetta 684-1251-012 and the module Isolator Relay Delay 00-00629-120.

This is the solenoid mounted to the firewall behind radiator overflow - correct?

Originally Posted by 10scDust

At this time, it is all installed in original configuration and waiting, I am tedious and have all the wiring documented, hand drawn, and pictures, from before disassembly.

At this point, I decided to replace both units with a Precision Circuits BIM 225, it seemed the best way to go.

Is this going to replace the original setup or is it in addition to?

Thanks for helping out on this thread.

[10scDust]

Originally Posted by TheBreeze

This is the solenoid mounted to the firewall behind radiator overflow - correct?



Is this going to replace the original setup or is it in addition to?

Thanks for helping out on this thread.

Yes sir.
The one under hood, on inner fender well, in front of the driver, hidden by the radiator reservoir plastic tank.
okay...
When the BIM 225 arrives, it will replace original system.
Which will be removed: the Isolation Relay Delay, and the Trombetta (the solenoid).
I found wiring diagram and info on the Intellitec, the OEM stuff from Thor, and believe I figured which wire goes where by comparing Precision Circuits BIM 225 wiring diagram.
I want the cross capability charging with going down the road peace of mind.
It is only what I concluded should work for me, I guess, I will see.

[The_Breeze]

Originally Posted by 10scDust

Yes sir.
The one under hood, on inner fender well, in front of the driver, hidden by the radiator reservoir plastic tank.
okay...
When the BIM 225 arrives, it will replace original system.
Which will be removed: the Isolation Relay Delay, and the Trombetta (the solenoid).
I found wiring diagram and info on the Intellitec, the OEM stuff from Thor, and believe I figured which wire goes where by comparing Precision Circuits BIM 225 wiring diagram.
I want the cross capability charging with going down the road peace of mind.
It is only what I concluded should work for me, I guess, I will see.

You'll likely share your experience and result with the rest of us. Let me know if there's something I can research to help you out.

[10scDust]

Originally Posted by TheBreeze

You'll likely share your experience and result with the rest of us. Let me know if there's something I can research to help you out.

I sure will.
What is there is not working properly now.

With the coach batteries taken care of for now (plugged into shore power presently), I ran an extension cord under the hood, installed a milliamp battery tender to chassis battery, to keep charge up, stable, and out of the rain too.

No trip planned until next month, so I expect it will take some time, and monitoring before gathering enough info.
I expect it to work well, provided I get it wired correctly, LOL, after all, I am human.

Part of my decision, to go with a BIM 225, falls on Precision Circuits literature of how the system works, the complexity of what a BIRD entails, and halfprice's recommendation, as that is what he has, and I understand it works great for them.

Even though Precision Circuits has one rated at 160 continuous amps, vs 225, that was where my technical expertise lacks, so I went 225, hope that is right as I believe 225 is upgrade from 160.

Class A, or class C, the battery systems are too similar for it not to work.

At this point in time, a battery disconnect system does not fit our bill.
We are in the process of getting a cement parking place installed.
My pre-planning has shore power hook up installed, two 110 25A outlets 30 feet apart, even a separate circuit for future carport lighting, and an extension to my septic tank for a dump station.
Being next to the garage building, water is available there, too.
Later on a carport roof will be there to complete those plans.
Doing most myself, lots of work...

Thanks again to the members, and this forum, which helped me in my research, with tips, experience, etc.

We really hope to meet some of y'all one day down the road.

[lwmcguire]

Originally Posted by 10scDust

I sure will.
What is there is not working properly now.

With the coach batteries taken care of for now (plugged into shore power presently), I ran an extension cord under the hood, installed a milliamp battery tender to chassis battery, to keep charge up, stable, and out of the rain too.

No trip planned until next month, so I expect it will take some time, and monitoring before gathering enough info.
I expect it to work well, provided I get it wired correctly, LOL, after all, I am human.

Part of my decision, to go with a BIM 225, falls on Precision Circuits literature of how the system works, the complexity of what a BIRD entails, and halfprice's recommendation, as that is what he has, and I understand it works great for them.

Even though Precision Circuits has one rated at 160 continuous amps, vs 225, that was where my technical expertise lacks, so I went 225, hope that is right as I believe 225 is upgrade from 160.

Class A, or class C, the battery systems are too similar for it not to work.

At this point in time, a battery disconnect system does not fit our bill.
We are in the process of getting a cement parking place installed.
My pre-planning has shore power hook up installed, two 110 25A outlets 30 feet apart, even a separate circuit for future carport lighting, and an extension to my septic tank for a dump station.
Being next to the garage building, water is available there, too.
Later on a carport roof will be there to complete those plans.
Doing most myself, lots of work...

Thanks again to the members, and this forum, which helped me in my research, with tips, experience, etc.

We really hope to meet some of y'all one day down the road.

Maybe I missed it, but aren't you putting in at least one 30 amp breaker/plug for the RV?

[The_Breeze]

Definitely seems as though the old battery failed. Just checked it after sitting for 4 days and she's still pushing 12.61v.

[10scDust]

Originally Posted by lwmcguire

Maybe I missed it, but aren't you putting in at least one 30 amp breaker/plug for the RV?

Well, I meant by saying shore power, so yes a 30 amp 120vac RV plug is installed too, and I used #6 wire if I want to reconfigure it to an RV 50 amp 240vac outlet for if we decide to go class A at a later date.
Just change a couple things and where a wire lands.

I want a roof there too...

[DFW]

We have a 2019 Thor Windsport 29m
We have an issue when we first got the RV sitting in our yard plugged in for about 3 weeks and battery was dead. Using a meter on battery showed the batteries were not charging, about 12V and not charging. I clicked the master breaker switch ONE time and the batteries showed charging.
Everytime we park, the master switch is on, plug into shore line and click the switch ONE time and we've had no issue. We've been across country for 3 months and in several places for varying times. No problem with battery.

[Kbs]

Have a 2017 class c 31 p. Going along with this thread, my chassis battery was dead. So I hit the emergency start switch, thinking it would kick the engine over. Nothing, not even a click.... is there some procedure to using this that I may have missed...?? Or is it another sigh, fun with Thor time....?? I carry a jump battery so no problems but would like to know if I am using it incorrectly. Also any ideas how to test it if the chassis battery is charged.?. Thanks

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Kbs

Have a 2017 class c 31 p. Going along with this thread, my chassis battery was dead. So I hit the emergency start switch, thinking it would kick the engine over. Nothing, not even a click.... is there some procedure to using this that I may have missed...?? Or is it another sigh, fun with Thor time....?? I carry a jump battery so no problems but would like to know if I am using it incorrectly. Also any ideas how to test it if the chassis battery is charged.?. Thanks

Emergency start switch simply connects all the batteries. To use - press and hold the emergency switch in for about one minute and then still holding the switch in turn the key to start.



To test to see if the charger is charging the chassis battery(s) - plug the coach in or start the generator with the use/store switch in the use position or master power switch on and wait 5 minutes. Use a plug in voltmeter (plugs in a dash power port) or probe type volt meter across thew chassis battery terminals. If the voltage is less the 13.0 volts the battery is not being charged. If the voltage is more than 13.0 volts the battery is being charged.

[The_Breeze]

Originally Posted by Kbs

Have a 2017 class c 31 p. Going along with this thread, my chassis battery was dead. So I hit the emergency start switch, thinking it would kick the engine over. Nothing, not even a click.... is there some procedure to using this that I may have missed...?? Or is it another sigh, fun with Thor time....?? I carry a jump battery so no problems but would like to know if I am using it incorrectly. Also any ideas how to test it if the chassis battery is charged.?. Thanks

If Beau's suggestion doesn't work, try this: Check your coach batteries for juice. The house lights should work. If not, all batts are dead.

You may also have a breaker on the rear side of the battery cage under the entrance steps or somewhere near the house batts. See if you have one. If so, push the red button then push the yellow lever back in (reset).

[ronf]

Originally Posted by The_Breeze

2017 Thor Chateau 31L.

I was parked in FL for a month. The only time the motor ran is when I pulled in and when I left. No issues. I even put a charge on my Patriot brake system the night before using the 12v outlet on the dash. I charged my Garmin (not much there) two nights before to apply updates before I left.

I'm parked in Tucson for a slightly less than 4 weeks and the chassis battery is dead. The Emer start switch in the cab saved the day but I'd rather know what to expect.

I might have been able to jump it with the toad and I have a trickle charger and extension cords if that's required but I'd rather not if I'm not supposed to have to.

Before I go through the pain of calling the delightful people at Thor (depends on who you get), does anyone know if the 31L is suppose to charge the chassis battery when hooked to shore power?

Thanks in advance for your help. Over and out.

I always use a trickle charger or battery maintainer when parked for a week or more 2 amp charger/maintainer

[riskmgr]

Originally Posted by The_Breeze

UPDATE to the update:


No go on the 13. 11.87 so Guess not. Pulling the battery. If good, hooking up a trickle charger and retest this process in the morning.


--------------------------------------------------


This is not to correct anyone. Most all are a big help out here. I searched this topic and the reviews are too mixed as in 'some do and some don't'

I boned up and called Thor - not that they're always right BUT - the guy on the phone said 'none of the Class C's charge the chassis battery using shore power'.

That sounds like a pretty generic statement which, in most cases, is wrong. It's like using 'all'. He also said the battery may be bad. It and the house batteries are only warrantied for a year (just great).

I have a multimeter and will do as Beau suggests and report back. If not, it's time to break out the wrenches, pull the battery, find an autozone and hook up a trickle charger if the battery load test is good. It bothers me it was fine in FL and I stayed there a month too. If Thor's wrong about the charging, the battery is an easy fix but should have been unnecessary at this time.

Thanks again you for input folks.

My class C doesn’t charge the chassis battery: 2018 Thor 30FE. I carry a battery charger for my RV and Toad and when camping, I check my chassis battery weekly with multimeter and hookup charger night before leaving if voltage is down to 12.1. The toll of a battery is when it discharges to 50% then charge it back

[riskmgr]

Originally Posted by Kickstand

I installed this in my engine compartment a few months ago. Works great. Super easy to install across the emergency start relay terminals.
Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer

My house battery is a distance from my chassis battery. What’s the solution?

[Kickstand]

Originally Posted by riskmgr

My house battery is a distance from my chassis battery. What’s the solution?

Depends if your two banks are truly completely isolated. Chances are very very good they are not- that someplace along the line there’s a relay that connects the two banks, even if just temporarily like in the case of emergency start switch. Or if your alternator also charges the house battery. If one of those conditions exist, you can install over the existing relay/solenoid.

If no preexisting connection, you would need to run wires. At that point there are better and probably easier solutions to keep chassis topped off- like a solar trickle charger or even 120v trickle charger that you manually hook up during extended stays.