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Old 10-25-2017, 01:01 PM   #1
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Electrical surge protection

New here and not sure where I should go, but here goes...We just got our Raptor 3912 with 50 amp service toy hauler. I know I'll usually plug in to the 50 amp service, but I know some places will only have a 30 available. Need to get electrical protection, but not sure which unit we need, 30 or 50, or do we need to buy one of both? I have a 'dog bone' to use for the 30 hook-up, so how would that work? Can we work with the portable plugs, or should we just get one of the internal mounted units?
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Old 10-25-2017, 02:19 PM   #2
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New here and not sure where I should go, but here goes...We just got our Raptor 3912 with 50 amp service toy hauler. I know I'll usually plug in to the 50 amp service, but I know some places will only have a 30 available. Need to get electrical protection, but not sure which unit we need, 30 or 50, or do we need to buy one of both? I have a 'dog bone' to use for the 30 hook-up, so how would that work? Can we work with the portable plugs, or should we just get one of the internal mounted units?
I am sure the more experienced will weigh in on this....but from my research last year I was led to believe if you get a good surge protection device (I got a Progressive) it needs to be in the pedestal and not on an adapter - so it need to match that plug...
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Old 10-25-2017, 05:16 PM   #3
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Buy the 50 amp surge protector and also an adapter to plug the surge
protector into the 30 amp plug. so a 50 to 30 amp adapter.
That's what I have for mine.
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Old 10-25-2017, 05:43 PM   #4
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Buy a Progressive 50 amp hardwired surge protector. Once installed the Progressive will protect your coach on 50, 30, or 15 amp service and you can sleep soundly at night. With a hardwired Progressive you don’t have to worry about theft since it’s permanently installed in your coach. Install is usually fairly easy depending on how your coach is set up, took about 45 min on my coach which has all the wiring under the bed.
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Old 10-25-2017, 06:14 PM   #5
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Buy the 50 amp, plug your 30 to 50 dog bone adapter (if by chance you have the hockey puk adapters, throw them as far as you can, they're a fire hazard) into the pedestal then the surge protector into the adapter then 50 amp as usual from there, the only possible damage would be to your dog bone adapter, have done this numerous times & works great.. I've had the portable for almost 12 years, the last 10 it's been in use every day all across the country & has never walked off yet. The hard wired is nice, but if you ever plan to trade rvs you'll have to buy it again, I'm on the 4th rv with the same protector, well actually the 2nd, the first one fried at a park, but no damage to my rv, replaced under warranty.
The moral is; if own a rv, DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT ONE!!!
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Old 10-25-2017, 06:18 PM   #6
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For 50A rig, get a 50A protector - whether internal or external it will work fine...
To plug in to 30A, plug in the dogbone, then the surge protector (if external).
The dogbone just sends the single 30A hot leg to both hot legs of the 50A - Surge protector doesn't care about that.

Internal vs external - there is no wrong answer - just different opinions...
I chose external - some reports the units can hum - and didn't want that under the bed... at least some newer ones don't have a 'bypass' capability - and if the unit failed - I still wanted the choice to have power without rewiring the rig.

Certainly nothing wrong with the internal choice - my only strong recommendation is to get something... and use it.

My external Surge Guard has the same over/under voltage, miswired, and surge protection as the internal versions. I carry a light chain and lock to fasten it to the pedestal if I want - certainly can be defeated but keeps those looking for an easy walk off away.

It has saved me at least a couple of times I know of... probably many more I never even saw.
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Old 10-26-2017, 12:33 AM   #7
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Get the 50 A Progressive and you will never look back. When we bought our C, I boight one of the Progressive 30A portable units. It has saved us,more than once.

See you in January. Fill jn your user info so we know what your unit is!

Greg, hope to see you this weekend in Deland.
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Old 10-26-2017, 01:08 AM   #8
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...
Greg, hope to see you this weekend in Deland.
Will see you there Jim & Marianne (and Libby of course!)
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Old 10-26-2017, 01:23 AM   #9
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Buy a Progressive 50 amp hardwired surge protector. Once installed the Progressive will protect your coach on 50, 30, or 15 amp service and you can sleep soundly at night. With a hardwired Progressive you donít have to worry about theft since itís permanently installed in your coach. Install is usually fairly easy depending on how your coach is set up, took about 45 min on my coach which has all the wiring under the bed.
The only thing that has me worried about the install is that I'm assuming I need to run a wire and install a remote display someplace.

My ACE has the converter and inverter under the bed, so I figure I would install it there, but have no clue how to run the remote display to install it.
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Old 10-26-2017, 01:37 AM   #10
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The internal units are great, but the portables are great and don't require installation. With my portable, I use a cable bike lock to secure it (somewhat) to the power post. There is always a degree of risk of having the portable unit stolen at any campground, but I feel that risk is pretty low at the places I have stayed over the years (with the bike cable lock).
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Old 10-26-2017, 12:52 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by tnedator View Post
The only thing that has me worried about the install is that I'm assuming I need to run a wire and install a remote display someplace.

My ACE has the converter and inverter under the bed, so I figure I would install it there, but have no clue how to run the remote display to install it.
You can make it as easy or hard as you want...
Easiest is place the remote in the side of the bed base... Have to get down there to see it - but up to you how often you think that will be...

Can certainly chase the wire to other locations to raise it up if desired.

Mine is out on the power pedestal (portable) - I don't look at it often. I check it when plugging in - and occasionally just trying to understand power consumption with ACs on, and of course if the power gets cut off...
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Old 10-26-2017, 01:50 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by tnedator View Post
The only thing that has me worried about the install is that I'm assuming I need to run a wire and install a remote display someplace.

My ACE has the converter and inverter under the bed, so I figure I would install it there, but have no clue how to run the remote display to install it.
Remote display is super easy. My display is mounted on the side of the bed right above the 12v fuse panel. I drilled a hole just big enough to pass the connector thru, connected cable to the display, then holding the display against the side I slid it down as far as I could and marked the mounting holes. By sliding the display down it covers the hole drilled for the cable. I used a small piece of 1x2 as a backing and mounted the display with 1Ē x #8 si screws. Very solid and easy to see, allows me to monitor power usage at any time.
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Old 10-26-2017, 02:07 PM   #13
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Remote display is super easy. My display is mounted on the side of the bed right above the 12v fuse panel. I drilled a hole just big enough to pass the connector thru, connected cable to the display, then holding the display against the side I slid it down as far as I could and marked the mounting holes. By sliding the display down it covers the hole drilled for the cable. I used a small piece of 1x2 as a backing and mounted the display with 1Ē x #8 si screws. Very solid and easy to see, allows me to monitor power usage at any time.
Ok, you didn't bother running it to your main control center (black levels, grey levels, etc.).

Is this something that needs to be checked every time you hookup, or just looked at for an error if there is no power after connecting?

Any benefit to mounting it in a cabinet outside to see as you hook it up? I know on my external one, I check when I connect to make sure there isn't an open ground or anything like that.
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Old 10-26-2017, 02:28 PM   #14
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After you hook up the power the surge protector waits about 15 seconds and analyzes the power before allowing it to pass to the coach, if the power isn’t good it won’t get to the coach. Having the display on the side of the bed makes it convenient to glance at without having to open a panel.
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Old 10-26-2017, 02:44 PM   #15
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After you hook up the power the surge protector waits about 15 seconds and analyzes the power before allowing it to pass to the coach, if the power isnít good it wonít get to the coach. Having the display on the side of the bed makes it convenient to glance at without having to open a panel.
Makes sense, and that's easier than what had me holding back, which was trying to figure out how to run the remote to the central cluster.
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Old 10-26-2017, 05:09 PM   #16
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Makes sense, and that's easier than what had me holding back, which was trying to figure out how to run the remote to the central cluster.
Hope I was helpful!
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Old 10-26-2017, 05:09 PM   #17
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We have used a post mount surge protector for many years. Ron got a hood which covers the plug..which has a lock on it. A person can always eat their words...but, so far so good. We have not lost anything to theft. A person must do what makes them comfortable...
The important thing is...get a surge protector and adapter !
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