2016 Thor Chateau 31E intro and questions - Page 6

macgyvr · 08-30-2017, 08:52 PM

I still haven't checked my bunk tv to see if it works in motion with the genny.

You would have to wire that inverter in so that you could use it with the current system and have a way to switch it back and forth. I'm not sure how that would work. 2000 watts is about 15 amps...which is fine for travel but I'm not sure how you'd wire it to work on short power and get your full 30 amps.

The other option, which I did with my other class B+ that I had a few years ago, was to run power direct from the batteries to an inverter. The inverter had it's own receptacle and we just plugged the tv and dvd player into the the inverter receptacle when we drove. It would only run what was plugged into it, so the fridge still ran on propane.

mac 'so far we've kept the kids entertained w/o tv this time around' gyvr

Druff · 08-30-2017, 09:03 PM

I think everything in the coach should work if you have the generator running. I don't think they lock you out of anything. How would they go about that? That would take more wiring and controls. In my 31W with the res fridge and inverter both inside tvs work when going down the road without the generator running.

MarylandMatt · 09-06-2017, 06:58 PM

I know that I have heard some people report that the outlet to the TV over the driver seat gets disabled while the RV is in motion, it seems to be random, that someone people will have it and some people will not.

As for the inverter that I was looking at, this is a pretty cool one. So, the camper should already have a transfer switch that selects between shore power and Generator power, then goes to the AC breakers. The configuration is that you add in this new device between the breakers and that switch, and it has it's own internal switch that would switch between shore power and using the Inverter. So, everything goes through this one device to provide AC power, and it just uses what ever it can. I think that it even has Solar input, so that you can use that to charge the batteries.

Here is a wiring diagram of what I am talking about:

The main difference is that this has two breaker panels, I would probably only do one panel, since that is what is there. By doing this, instead of just going from batteries to specific outlets, I can provide power to all my outlets in the camper for what ever I might need, and where ever in the camper I need it. There are some good Youtube videos on this.

As you can see, it is not exactly easy, but it is also not difficult, since all the connections are already there by the breakers, just probably might need to re-run a high gauge wire from the batteries to the inverter since it will be doing a lot more load than what normally comes off the batteries for just the DC side. This si how they do it on a lot of the larger Class A models, but they opt for a larger inverter and more batteries so they can do more, I have even seen them running the AC off a configuration like this.

I think that it is standard enough that you could even get a shop to do the work for you if you do not feel comfortable.

Druff · 09-23-2017, 10:10 PM

I ordered the 17.5 wheels & tires for my class C. I started a new thread on it in Modifications & Updates.

macgyvr · 09-25-2017, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Druff

I ordered the 17.5 wheels & tires for my class C. I started a new thread on it in Modifications & Updates.

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f27...ss-c-9383.html

link to thread for reference

mac 'on my wish list' gyvr

macgyvr · 09-25-2017, 09:40 AM

Almost 3500 miles on ours since we bought it.

Everything seems to be working good.

Have a wish list to make it better...more on that later.

mac 'bunk tv does work while in motion on genset' gyvr

Druff · 09-25-2017, 11:24 AM

Macgyvr

I can't seem to add references on my phone, it never takes. Thank you for putting that on here.

macgyvr · 10-10-2017, 10:16 AM

Just spent a weekend of dry camping running the genset all weekend. We were pulled into an area that wasn’t exactly open, but wasn’t exactly confined. After only a few short hours of running we had the CO alarm going off in the RV. There was a decent breeze going as well. I put a box fan outside trying to blow fumes away. In the end we came up with a 3ft extension on the genny Exhaust with a cinder block for support and a jack stand on the end to hold the pipe on. (Getting an error trying to post the picture.) This worked until Sunday morning about 6am when the CO alarm went off again. I tried everything to get the fumes away and to get the alarm to go off. Finally I turned the genset off so I could sleep. Once off the CO alarm reset in about 20-30 minutes.

The design of the Exhaust coming out under the slide out is dumb.

We dry camp 1-3 times a year. I need a solution. Turning the genset off is not it.

Do those Exhaust stacks work? I think there’s enough room to get it in there.

Other ideas?

I need not kill myself or my family while having fun vacationing. Sunday morning at 6am listening to the CO alarm...was not fun.

mac ‘Exhausted’ gyvr

gmc · 10-10-2017, 12:43 PM

Maybe asking the obvious - but any chance there is a leak elsewhere in the genny exhaust that might be making its way in??
Even if exhausting under the slide was an issue - it would sound like the extension pipe should have solved that - so makes me wonder if there is another leak...

My exhaust is right at the rear of the slide - just in front of the rear tire. Haven't had an issue with it yet...

CO detectors earn their keep... Rather wake to them than not wake at all!!

lazinskm · 10-10-2017, 01:24 PM

I have had some problems w/ more the smell than CO- I am not sure your setup but my exhaust is right below front of my slide, and it has a pretty good gap on the corner- i have put in a towel to keep exhaust out and air conditioning in- seemed to help a bit. DON"T FORGET IT IS THERE!!! I know that you can buy those genturis- but there is websites on how to make much cheaper- on the list for this winter.

Dragon70 · 10-10-2017, 01:44 PM

Yes the exhaust stack works very well but not sure it would solve your particular problem. I used mine twice for the purpose of noise reduction but they're not that loud anyway so it's been sitting in my garage for the last 2 years. I've ran the gen for days and never had the CO alarm go off in both my class C and A but my exhaust may come out in a different place.

macgyvr · 10-10-2017, 06:39 PM

This is the "setup" I came up with. It worked for 30 hours...

You can see the exhaust exit is under the slide so I guess the exhaust gets stuck in there. The extension worked...til it didn't.

I am going to inspect the exhaust on the genset as well to look for any obvious issues.

mac 'if the pic works' gyvr

macgyvr · 10-10-2017, 06:42 PM

So to put that pic in context. The exhaust exits just behind the driver's door.

The slide is a full wall slide from front to back.

The jeep is the 'beater with a heater' that I field raced this past weekend and had a ball.

mac 'not my normal towed Jeep' gyvr

macgyvr · 11-17-2017, 10:04 PM

I think I'm going to do this kit for the genset. Haven't bought it yet because it's off season for us and I'll watch the Christmas deals to maybe grab it for cheaper. There is no immediate need for it right now.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUU5XG...=3G5T2QEUA0FWX

mac 'hopefully will take care of the issue' gyvr

macgyvr · 11-17-2017, 10:10 PM

I'm tracking a water "leak" issue that is annoying. I get water inside the coach when the slide is pulled in. Its in the front of the slide and in the middle. It only leaks when it's raining, the slide is IN and we are in motion.

For some reason, the slide hits the trim up front when it's in. I think this is not letting it seal completely and letting water in the bottom of the slide. Anyone else have this issue? I've been looking at the pics of new coaches that are the same model as mine and it appears that they have eliminated the trim on the front and at the back they have moved it to the bottom. Seems like they know there's an issue.

I attached a photo of the issue (the front and the back where it doesn't hit).

mac 'looks like a QC issue' gyvr

Druff · 11-18-2017, 01:04 AM

You are right, I looked at my 2016 and that trim is not there. I wonder what would even be under there,. It is all flush on mine. Or were they just trying to match the other side.

macgyvr · 11-18-2017, 04:27 AM

I think it was to match the other side. The photos that I looked at today of ones that are for sale, they seemed to be all over the place with trim. Very odd. Some had it, some didn't, some had an upper trim and a lower and some just the lower. I think I'm going to try to just take it off on the front trim piece. Hopefully they used tape to attach it...

I may not address it until this spring as my winter parking area is slanted to keep the water running off the front of the coach. We are getting 3 inches of rain in the next 24 hours, I'll check it and make sure there's no water getting in as it sits.

mac 'things that make you go...hmmmmmmmmmm' gyvr

BigBlake · 01-10-2018, 08:15 PM

Hello,
After finding this forum I came across your post. We have owned our 31E for about a year and we typically only use it 2-3 times per year. We are using it more often now and are having an issue with the black tank. When the toilet is used, the paper and "waste" sits directly under the toilet pipe and builds up. It's like the tank is flat under the toilet and the toilet pipe is a straight shot down maybe 6 inches. Well after a few trips to the restroom, the water will not drain down due to "waste" building up. I now have to keep a poop stick in their to move things around. Anyone else have this issue? Any ideas on a fix?

Elkoholic53 · 01-10-2018, 08:21 PM

Too much tissue and not enough water. It’s called pyramiding. You’ll need to purchase an Rv toilet flush wand to clear tissue buildup. Fill tank to top twice each time you dump and it’ll help flush buildup. Use plenty of water when you flush.

Elkoholic53 · 01-10-2018, 08:23 PM

It’ll also help to us RV tissue or single ply Scotts.

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