2016 Thor Chateau 31E intro and questions

[gmc]

Originally Posted by bransonchris@msn.com

This is my first time RVing while dry camping. I purchased two additional batteries for my 2018 Thor Chateau 31y. Aside from using the generator, how do I run the electric systems directly from my batteries?

On your 31Y, everything will run from the batteries except the A/C and Microwave (and of course anything else you plug into a 110v outlet yourself...)
Your fridge runs on 12v (control panel) and propane (cooling) when set to 'gas' mode (or auto if 110v isn't present).
Beyond that you would need to add an inverter. The size needed and connection options depend on what you want to run...

The duration you will be able to go depends on total watts consumed and your battery capacity (you said you added two - so that helps a lot.)
Microwaves, hair dryers, some coffee makers would be 'high draw' appliances driving a larger inverter. A/C would not be feasible (start your genny to run that...)
Your battery will need to deliver about 10x the AMPS that the device normally draws from 110v...

10A @ 110V = 1100 Watts
92A @ 12v = 1100 Watts
Needs some large wiring - and close proximity between batteries and inverter as you get larger.

I carry a small inverter with me - but rarely use it... I've added two 12v fans, converted all interior lighting to LED, added a 12v TV in bedroom, have 12v adapter for laptop, 12v to USB for charging phones, etc - and can boondock for a weekend on my two batteries. It all depends on what works for you!

[jabrabu]

I agree about the frameless windows. I prefer the old style that provides a lot more airflow through the coach. The screens on the frameless windows are also a pain. I don't know why they went with this frameless design. I guess people like they way they look.


I have found that if you open the roof vent over the cab and run the vent fan in the bedroom, it provides a nice airflow through the coach. I wouldn't bother with modifying the rear emergency window since the ceiling vent fan in the bedroom probably works just as well.

[macgyvr]

The frameless windows suck...

The passenger’s side window over the couch moves all over the place going down the road.

We use two box fans to move air around.

mac ‘im going to try to get to the scratch and dent ac place next week’ gyvr

[JJMLF31]

Originally Posted by 99dart

Congrats on the rig! Sounds like you have figured out what fits you & the family, good for you. I/we too have been moving "stuff" from the old RV to the new(to us) WS31 Quantum and adding accessories. I wired a brake notification light into the brake pigtail for our wheels down toad. I didn't like the thought of drilling into the dash, so drilled the coin tray for the 1/4" led light. I didn't see the two butt connectors on mine that you have. While I was in there I wired an El' Cheapo outside thermometer/clock/system voltage device. I velcro'ed it just above the coin tray. We like to know the time/temp at a glance when moving down the road. Also, mounted a bike rack & brush style gravel gaurd to help protect the front of the toad.
Oh, our coach batteries are under the step also. There was just enough heighth clearance to install 2, 6v Interstate deep cycle batteries. Like yours the factory 12v units were toast. We will be heading out this wkend with the grand daughters for their annual vacation trip. The new RV is a "surprise" to them. We will find out how the batteries hold up to the residential fridge on a couple nights of dry camping.

I just bought a Quantum LF31 and took it dry camping this past weekend. Learned quickly that the 2 12 volt batteries installed could not keep the residential fridge going for very long. Had to run the generator and turned off fridge at night to maximize the battery power. How did the 6V batteries work to power your fridge while you dry camped? How long could you go running the fridge before needing a charge? Could you fit more than 2 6V batteries under the step? Thanks!

[macgyvr]

I barely got two 6 volt batteries under the step in my RV. Without modification there is no way I could get more than 2.

I don't dry camp and live off the batteries so I don't know how long it could last without being plugged in. I know I have used them on and off for a while doing things in the RV if I'm too lazy to plug it into the house. The factory batteries weren't worth the labels printed on them.

I did the Sam's club 6 volt golf cart batteries.

mac 'peace of mind over anything else' gyvr

[MarylandMatt]

Originally Posted by JJMLF31

I just bought a Quantum LF31 and took it dry camping this past weekend. Learned quickly that the 2 12 volt batteries installed could not keep the residential fridge going for very long. Had to run the generator and turned off fridge at night to maximize the battery power. How did the 6V batteries work to power your fridge while you dry camped? How long could you go running the fridge before needing a charge? Could you fit more than 2 6V batteries under the step? Thanks!

It looks like the Quantum LF31 uses a residential fridge, does it have an option to run off just Gas? I seem to recall that those types use an inverter to power the fridge from the batteries. I know use with the Thor Chateau, it does not use a residential style fridge, so we can use propane to cool while dry camping.

I have not tried myself, but I have seen other people say, Gas powered fridges should be fine for long dry camping but that Residential style ones are not because of the power systems they use.

Hope something works for you.

[MarylandMatt]

Originally Posted by macgyvr

The passenger’s side window over the couch moves all over the place going down the road.

Do people drive with their windows open when going down the road? I have been concerned about the stress it would put on the mechanisms. If I open anything, it is the roof vents, which I installed covers over.

Just curious. I have wanted to sometimes run with those open but just worried.

[macgyvr]

Originally Posted by MarylandMatt

Do people drive with their windows open when going down the road? I have been concerned about the stress it would put on the mechanisms. If I open anything, it is the roof vents, which I installed covers over.

Just curious. I have wanted to sometimes run with those open but just worried.

We haven't with them open. As much as mine move around with them closed, I don't think it would do damage open...

My 31E came with roof vent covers, but I bought it a year old used.

mac 'miss big sliding windows' gyvr

[JJMLF31]

Originally Posted by MarylandMatt

It looks like the Quantum LF31 uses a residential fridge, does it have an option to run off just Gas? I seem to recall that those types use an inverter to power the fridge from the batteries. I know use with the Thor Chateau, it does not use a residential style fridge, so we can use propane to cool while dry camping.

I have not tried myself, but I have seen other people say, Gas powered fridges should be fine for long dry camping but that Residential style ones are not because of the power systems they use.

Hope something works for you.

Thanks for the response. My RV has a residential fridge and there is not an option for gas. My previous travel trailer had a 3-way fridge which could run off gas - this was great as I never had to worry about it when boondocking....just needed to keep the battery charged enough to ignite the flame which was easy. I am considering a battery upgrade to run the residential fridge and/or a Zamp solar panel. Not sure if anyone has experience with any of this, but certainly would appreciate the input!! Thanks!

[macgyvr]

The wife said 1 a/c is not enough!

So I bought a 13.5k unit to put in the bedroom.

For now I'm going to run a separate line to plug it in at the box as most of our campsites have 30/50 am and the 110 outlets.

My eventual plan is an upgrade to 50 amp service as we have some crazy circuits in the rv that I want to split up.

Hope to get it installed on a nice warm Indiana April day...

mac 'likely a nice May day' gyvr

[vegasruv24.1]

WOW, what a cool about rv thread!!!! thanks for the read

[macgyvr]

This had the cover over it too.



Scraped a bunch of that goo off



It fits



We used my truck to nut it up there



Looks good in the daylight even.

mac ‘need to run some wire’ gyvr

[macgyvr]

Got the inside put together. The wire is still in the cabinet, need to chase down when I get a moment.

mac ‘chill zone’ gyvr

[99dart]

Nice! 2

[Bob Denman]

I agree...

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1554674393

[macgyvr]

So far no leaks from the new a/c install.



I got the wire ran from the cabinet down to the night stand.




I used the existing hole to get down the wall where the coax for the satellite runs. I'm not using it. You can see in the next photo the orange coax now in the bottom of the cabinet.

I didn't leave enough wire, so I put a box in the cabinet. It also took me way longer than I wanted it to take so I ran out of time to get anymore done.





My goal is to get the wire where all the other rv wiring meets up under the bed and set another box. Then I'm going to figure out how to get a long extension cord into that box to plug the a/c into the 110 plug on the pole for this year. Next year I will upgrade the rv from 30 amp to 50 amp service. Then I can just run a new wire from the box to the new service and eliminate the extension cord. I'm also going to be looking at one of those power control centers that helps keep from spiking the power with 2 a/c's since my genny is only 4k.



mac 'slow going' gyvr

[macgyvr]

I also set up the stack for the genset. Been meaning to do this for a while. The last time we camped with the genny we had a co2 alarm go off and had to shut the genny off in the middle of the night. I'm hoping this takes care of that issue.







This camco kit is very nice. Everything was included to make it work.





mac 'co2 alarm is annoying' gyvr

[macgyvr]

So to get the second a/c running for this season, I just cut the end off of a brand new 50ft 12 gauge extension cord. I plan to upgrade to 50amp service in the future, but after the cost of the a/c, I'll save that upgrade for now.


I ran the cord into the power storage box along side the 30 amp shore power.


I ran it up into the mess of cords that come into the cabin. You can see the orange power cord. I put a box in there so that when we upgrade in the future, the power for the a/c is in that compartment, easier to tap into later.


A/C on and putting out air that in the 40s...the bedroom is going to be an ice box...

mac 'not sleeping in sweat this summer' gyvr

[Ragegame]

Nice work!

I’m about to full time in Indiana and am going to add a heat pump on a separate circuit that’s drilled out the back for a regular 110 plug. I haven’t fully figured out how to keep the waste tanks safe in the -15 lows that might be experienced over winter.

I was thinking hay bale skirting and a space heater?

I added a ball valve upstream so I won’t lose the low point drain to cracking and freezing.

[macgyvr]

Originally Posted by Ragegame

Nice work! Where did you route the cabling to get up to the AC?

Post #156 shows most of the routing.

mac ‘if that doesn’t answer let me know’ gyvr