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Old 09-05-2019, 03:13 PM   #1
Bum
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Do I need to have power in storage

I have a question that I'm sure most of you can answer. I have a 2019 Chateau 22B that I am going to put in storage, there are spaces with and without electricity. My question #1 is how long can I allow it to sit without power being hooked up before my batteries go dead and should the coach power switch be on or of when not hooked up?. Question #2 if I have power should I keep the power switch inside the coach on or off? Thanks for your help.
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Old 09-05-2019, 03:18 PM   #2
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If you have the choice: take the spot with power!
Plug into it, and set your "Use/Store" switch to the "Use" position.
Make sure that your batteries are topped-off with distilled water, and be sure to check them at least on a Monthly basis.
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Old 09-05-2019, 03:27 PM   #3
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All the rigs we have owned over the years are parked next to our drive plugged in and the use switch on. As Bob said top off the batts and keep tabs on the water levels. Also run the genny at least once a month for a 1/2 hour or so preferably with a load like the A/C on.
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Old 09-05-2019, 03:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bum View Post
I have a question that I'm sure most of you can answer. I have a 2019 Chateau 22B that I am going to put in storage, there are spaces with and without electricity. My question #1 is how long can I allow it to sit without power being hooked up before my batteries go dead and should the coach power switch be on or of when not hooked up?. Question #2 if I have power should I keep the power switch inside the coach on or off? Thanks for your help.
Of course the answer to some is 'it depends'...

The easy answers:
If connected to electricity - use/store should be in 'use' to keep the batteries in the circuit and charged.
If not connected to electricity (shore or genny) - use/store should be in 'store' to disconnect the batteries.

Now the 'it depends' parts:

If you have a complete disconnect (with use/store switch or independent kill switch) - then leave disconnected and a fully charged battery should last quite a while with no need for electricity - even in winter conditions... Many find that even with use/store in store that there is still a draw on the batteries though - so need to know your rig - or add your own 'hard' disconnect.

How much do you trust your converter to properly float the batteries - and not 'cook' them from overcharging?
I've stayed in my rig up to 5 months - connected the whole time... so reasonably comfortable with mine - but others have found the converter doesn't drop to float charge.


There is a convenience to having the electricity available - but I'm sure also a cost to you... People manage either way...

My previous rig spent winter storage in Michigan without electricity. It had a complete disconnect on both coach and chassis - and could easily go 1-2 months without incident... I typically stopped by to exercise the genny in that timeframe - which did top off the batteries (switches in 'use' while running genny)...

My current rig spends its 'down time' next to my garage with ability to hook up... It has no chassis disconnect, but the coach does appear to be complete. I still tend to leave it disconnected most times as I still need to exercise the genny periodically - and it tops them off.

If you can't have your rig at your house before/after a trip - I would find electricity in storage more important to get things ready for a trip - or back into storage...
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Old 09-05-2019, 04:01 PM   #5
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I have "Twin Disconnects" on both sides of my battery box... I would leave my switch in the "Off" position, and check the batteries Monthly.

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Old 09-05-2019, 04:12 PM   #6
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^^^what he said^^^
If plugged in, keep switch on "use" and periodically check batteries...life is good. If not plugged in, totally disconnect batteries at the posts. Otherwise, there will be parasitic draining from radio memory, smoke/CO2 detectors, etc.
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Old 09-05-2019, 04:33 PM   #7
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Wow, a lot more to know other than on or off I thank you all. It's $30 per month more with electric, $360/year which seems really high but maybe a lot of people run their AC and we all get charged for it. I'm thinking if I don't have it and the batteries go bad, there are only 2, I can probably replace them for less than $360.
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Old 09-05-2019, 05:37 PM   #8
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Batteries never seem to go dead at a convenient time...
Please factor that into your decision-making.
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Old 09-05-2019, 06:30 PM   #9
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Batteries never seem to go dead at a convenient time...

Isn't that the truth!
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Old 09-05-2019, 07:28 PM   #10
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Pay the $30 and leave A/C on 78 or so. Humidity in Florida will ruin the interior. You paid a lot for the RV...now is not the time to start dissecting dimes.
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Old 09-05-2019, 07:34 PM   #11
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Gritz is right: using the a/c to knock back the humidity, will pay dividends far beyond the cost.
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Old 09-05-2019, 07:36 PM   #12
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Pay the $30 and leave A/C on 78 or so. Humidity in Florida will ruin the interior. You paid a lot for the RV...now is not the time to start dissecting dimes.
For a lot of us, "dissecting dimes" (and pennies) over a lifetime is what has put us in a position to be able to afford a motorhome and travel. You can't build wealth by spending excessively.
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Old 09-05-2019, 08:16 PM   #13
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Don't forget this is an entry level Thor, no thermostat for the AC and it is not ducted, only the heat has a thermostat.
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Old 09-05-2019, 08:36 PM   #14
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Don't forget this is an entry level Thor, no thermostat for the AC and it is not ducted, only the heat has a thermostat.
I have never seen an Air Conditioner without a thermostat. It may not be a wall mounted thermostat like you see in your house, but there are two knobs for even the cheapest Air Conditioner: One for on/off fan and cooling speeds and one is the thermostat.
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:12 PM   #15
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I was referring to not having a temperature setting thermostat to set at 78 degrees. It does have the knobs but it would take a lot of trial and error to get the right setting and then having constant condensed water running down the side is another problem. But I will give that some thought.
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:58 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
For a lot of us, "dissecting dimes" (and pennies) over a lifetime is what has put us in a position to be able to afford a motorhome and travel. You can't build wealth by spending excessively.
IMHO, if you've made it to this point in your life, and can afford to buy an RV: you've already won!
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Old 09-05-2019, 11:35 PM   #17
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Wow, a lot more to know other than on or off I thank you all. It's $30 per month more with electric, $360/year which seems really high but maybe a lot of people run their AC and we all get charged for it. I'm thinking if I don't have it and the batteries go bad, there are only 2, I can probably replace them for less than $360.
IMHO if electric is available I personally would get it and use it. First to keep the batteries charged and second to keep the AC going in hot weather to aid with de-humidification. My coach is plugged into the side of the house and between trips the AC is set to 78 and use store is on use.
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Old 09-06-2019, 12:48 AM   #18
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For a lot of us, "dissecting dimes" (and pennies) over a lifetime is what has put us in a position to be able to afford a motorhome and travel. You can't build wealth by spending excessively.

I wouldn't consider $35 per month excessive. I just wish I had a dime for every dime I have.
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Old 09-07-2019, 09:34 PM   #19
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I went with the electric spot but here's is the next problem. If I use the knobs on my AC to shut down when it reaches a certain temperature, the compressor will shut down but the fan will be blowing 24 hours per day. Is that something that I would be wise in doing or maybe I could get a quality timer and hook it up at the receptacle outside and hope it doesn't get stolen. I don't think this is going to work but at least my batteries will be charged.
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Old 09-14-2019, 07:45 PM   #20
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I must tell you that when our 2016 Compass was new, the batteries would drain after sitting for a few days or week with the kill switch off. Camping World couldn't find any problem telling me that was normal behavior in the Las Vegas heat. I brought it to the Ford dealer for an oil change during the first year I had it, and while there I asked them to check it out. I thought it wouldn't be covered because they only are responsible for the front. First they thought it was bad batteries, near impossible to get to under the front seats, which were brand new and covered. That led them to take the whole damn Ford Transit apart tracing wires to the kill switch, and fuse box, and inverter etc. A week later it was fixed. The guy found a tiny short somewhere involving interior lights.
Our Compass now stays in storage with the kill switch off. I try to get to it every 3 weeks to run it for 10 minutes, but there are times it sits there, for well over a month. It starts right up, showing the battery level at the house at 3/4 or full.
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