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Old 12-08-2020, 04:20 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 33.1
State: Nevada
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THOR #21278
2021 THOR ACE 33.1 - Shake Down Experience (Have Some Questions)

As previously posted from my other thread, we traded our 2015 Forest River Forester 2861DS for a 2021 THOR ACE 33.1 (3 weeks ago). We like the floor plan. Wife love the cabinets. Here are my initial thoughts with our 3 day short get away (shake down).

We loaded our couch with our normal stuffs, full tank of gas, full tank propane, food, clothes, 15 gallon water in fresh water tank, etc. We stopped by CAT weighing station to check our weight. I don't have the paper, but we are LESS than the GVWR (below the front and rear axle weight limit).

The V8 engine performed well on the road. I was able to pass some vehicles when needed, even on slight incline. Road noise is tolerable. I will be adding some insulation underneath the doghouse to lessen the heat and noise. I have read some very helpful information in this forum.

I will also take the coach for alignment, as highly suggested in this forum. (did that also on my previous Class C). The steering wheel also need to be corrected to make it centered. I am also ordering the Front and Rear Sumo helper springs, as well as Road Master steering stabilizer. The coach do sway/swerve when big rigs pass by. Hopefully that initial upgrade with help.

I only found 2 issues with the RV. The electrical outlet under the dinette is not working. One of the HDMI cable that runs from the TV, all the way to the other side of the coach where the Blue Ray player is also not working. Other than that, everything was working.

Now... here is the only problem we had. The coach only have 3 furnace outlets. One in the bedroom. Two in the kitchen. The front of the coach is very cold. I did notice 2 vents on the floor (one in the bathroom and another one towards the front, behind the driver chair). But NO warm air is coming out. I called THOR company tech support this morning. I was told that those 2 vents are "NOT" connected to the furnace. They are just there for "air circulation". Can someone please confirm that?




I also asked the tech support rep if I can plug in my 50 amp coach to our residential outlet (15 amp) to start the refrigerator before camping. I was told NO, "the minimum power I need is 30 amp to run some appliances". Tech said I can plug it in. But it will not charge my batteries and it will not supply enough power to the coach.

Overall, we love the coach. We will start putting our personal touch to make it our own.

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Old 12-08-2020, 12:13 PM   #2
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Cool

Congrats on the new coach!

I suspect that whoever told you it needs at least 30 amps for anything to work is full of you-know-what. If you connect to a household 15 or 20 amp circuit using the appropriate adapter, that will provide more than enough for the fridge and the converter/charger. The only problem you might have is if both the coach and the house outlet are GFCI protected, they might trip and you'll have to plug into a non-GFCI circuit. 50/50 chance of that happening.

I also suspect that what they told you about the air vents is BS. Somewhere there is a duct that wasn't connected or worked its way loose. Insist on getting that problem rectified.
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Old 12-08-2020, 12:28 PM   #3
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I have the same floor vent in the front of my coach, and noticed no air comes out when the furnace is on as well. Don't have the one in the bathroom though.
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Old 12-08-2020, 02:58 PM   #4
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In addition to the tech's comment that plugging into a 15A household circuit won't work is BS, the tech's comment that the furnace vent is not hooked up so as to provide for air circulation is also.

I have no idea if those vents are visible from below, but give it a try and if so see if there is a vent hose connected and where it goes.

David

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Old 12-11-2020, 08:44 PM   #5
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I have a 30.2 and use a 20A circuit all the time while parked next to my home. The only thing i can't do is run both air conditioners at the same time. I even upgraded my batteries to 2 100AH lithium phosphate that pull 84Amps DC when charging and don't have a problem.

My coach also had a HDMI cable that went from one side by the door to the dinette TV on the slide that did not work. I bought a cheap HDMI tester and found some of the wires were shorted together. My guess is that somewhere there is a screw that was driven right through the cable. The only way to find it would be to open up the walls and trace the cable. No way was i going to let someone at the RV dealership do something like that. I ran a new line, mostly hidden.
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Old 12-11-2020, 09:39 PM   #6
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Thanks for the feedback Bandit. I have decided to use that Blue Ray player as a dedicated player for the outside TV. I ended up hooking a separate blue ray player to the inside TV.

How about that vent floor issue I have? Do you have the same vents on your floor? Is it blowing warm air when you turn on the furnace?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandit View Post
My coach also had a HDMI cable that went from one side by the door to the dinette TV on the slide that did not work. I bought a cheap HDMI tester and found some of the wires were shorted together. My guess is that somewhere there is a screw that was driven right through the cable. The only way to find it would be to open up the walls and trace the cable. No way was i going to let someone at the RV dealership do something like that. I ran a new line, mostly hidden.
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Old 12-11-2020, 09:49 PM   #7
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I don't have any floor vents like that. Mine all come out of the side walls and are all working.
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Old 12-16-2020, 08:27 PM   #8
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State: North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ador View Post
As previously posted from my other thread, we traded our 2015 Forest River Forester 2861DS for a 2021 THOR ACE 33.1 (3 weeks ago). We like the floor plan. Wife love the cabinets. Here are my initial thoughts with our 3 day short get away (shake down).

We loaded our couch with our normal stuffs, full tank of gas, full tank propane, food, clothes, 15 gallon water in fresh water tank, etc. We stopped by CAT weighing station to check our weight. I don't have the paper, but we are LESS than the GVWR (below the front and rear axle weight limit).

The V8 engine performed well on the road. I was able to pass some vehicles when needed, even on slight incline. Road noise is tolerable. I will be adding some insulation underneath the doghouse to lessen the heat and noise. I have read some very helpful information in this forum.

I will also take the coach for alignment, as highly suggested in this forum. (did that also on my previous Class C). The steering wheel also need to be corrected to make it centered. I am also ordering the Front and Rear Sumo helper springs, as well as Road Master steering stabilizer. The coach do sway/swerve when big rigs pass by. Hopefully that initial upgrade with help.

I only found 2 issues with the RV. The electrical outlet under the dinette is not working. One of the HDMI cable that runs from the TV, all the way to the other side of the coach where the Blue Ray player is also not working. Other than that, everything was working.

Now... here is the only problem we had. The coach only have 3 furnace outlets. One in the bedroom. Two in the kitchen. The front of the coach is very cold. I did notice 2 vents on the floor (one in the bathroom and another one towards the front, behind the driver chair). But NO warm air is coming out. I called THOR company tech support this morning. I was told that those 2 vents are "NOT" connected to the furnace. They are just there for "air circulation". Can someone please confirm that?




I also asked the tech support rep if I can plug in my 50 amp coach to our residential outlet (15 amp) to start the refrigerator before camping. I was told NO, "the minimum power I need is 30 amp to run some appliances". Tech said I can plug it in. But it will not charge my batteries and it will not supply enough power to the coach.

Overall, we love the coach. We will start putting our personal touch to make it our own.
Sounds like everyone else on this forum; you got some bugs to get rid of! Takes time and not to piss on your parade but I'd bet a few more things will happen, it's just the way it is. We have a 2018 Wind Sport 29m. We liked the ACE better like the wrap around cushions on the dinette, the bathroom layout and other small things BUT I could not see easily out the windshield cause I'm 6'6" and prefer the full size windshield in the Windsport. I'd highly recommend you also get the Road Master rear anti-sway bar. I also put Sumos on the front and after 3 years installed Bilstein shocks myself. Rides like a dream!! Good Luck; Bob & Wendy Trice
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Old 12-17-2020, 01:43 AM   #9
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I have a 2016 ACE 29.4. I have the same vent behind the drivers seat. I get very little warm air out of it.. I also have a vent with very little warm air in the bathroom. 95% of the warm air comes out of the bedroom vent and the vent between the stove and refrigerator. The furnace blower just won't push the air that far. I use a small electric heater in the front of the coach.
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Old 12-18-2020, 11:26 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knucklehead View Post
Sounds like everyone else on this forum; you got some bugs to get rid of! Takes time and not to piss on your parade but I'd bet a few more things will happen, it's just the way it is. We have a 2018 Wind Sport 29m. We liked the ACE better like the wrap around cushions on the dinette, the bathroom layout and other small things BUT I could not see easily out the windshield cause I'm 6'6" and prefer the full size windshield in the Windsport. I'd highly recommend you also get the Road Master rear anti-sway bar. I also put Sumos on the front and after 3 years installed Bilstein shocks myself. Rides like a dream!! Good Luck; Bob & Wendy Trice
I think I read on another thread that the 2021 F53 V8 chassis has heavier sway bars than those on the V10. He may not need a heavier sway bar. I’d only add that when you get it aligned, have the front tires balanced. I don’t have those vents but you may just be able to take the vent loose and see if a duct is connected. A 15 or 20 amp plug will allow you to use fridge and AV in your driveway. Wouldn’t try AC.
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Old 12-18-2020, 11:21 PM   #11
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I do t have the same model as you but my inverter is 20 amp. If I plug the RV into a 15 amp plug it blows the breaker.
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Old 12-19-2020, 03:18 AM   #12
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How do I tell if my inverter is 20 amp? Where do i look to confirm? I tried to plug in my RV using an adapter to 15 amp in my house. Two things happened. I heard something humming underneath our bed (which where our inverter maybe at?), AND.... both of the control boxes of my slide outs started blinking and gave me some error code (which translated to shorted ground wire). I callef Swintek (hope I spelled that correctly). They told me that error code happens when “I don’t get enough power to ny RV”. Could that be because of the 15Amp supply from my house? Anyway, the tech told me how to reset and clear the error code. The refrigerator did turn on on shore power though. I have decided to unplug everything AND not to plug it again once I am sure it is Ok and Safe to do so.

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I do t have the same model as you but my inverter is 20 amp. If I plug the RV into a 15 amp plug it blows the breaker.
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Old 12-19-2020, 11:32 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ador View Post
How do I tell if my inverter is 20 amp? Where do i look to confirm? I tried to plug in my RV using an adapter to 15 amp in my house. Two things happened. I heard something humming underneath our bed (which where our inverter maybe at?), AND.... both of the control boxes of my slide outs started blinking and gave me some error code (which translated to shorted ground wire). I callef Swintek (hope I spelled that correctly). They told me that error code happens when “I don’t get enough power to ny RV”. Could that be because of the 15Amp supply from my house? Anyway, the tech told me how to reset and clear the error code. The refrigerator did turn on on shore power though. I have decided to unplug everything AND not to plug it again once I am sure it is Ok and Safe to do so.
My unit is 30 amp. But I used to have a 50 amp 5th wheel as well. I had an electrician friend of mine wire a separate 30 amp circuit and plug to where I park the MH. Cost was less than $100 for materials and a case of beer. I leave it plugged in year round. Just check the batteries every 6 months or so.
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Old 12-19-2020, 01:12 PM   #14
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I would think if you didn’t trip the breaker yours is 15amp. You can look up the model of your inverter and it will tell you if it’s 15 or 20. My inverter is in the same bay as where the electrical hookup is.

Have you checked your house batteries? If they are low you might leave it plugged in for a while and let them charge. Maybe you were getting errors because of low battery. The noise you hear under your bed is probably your converter.
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Old 12-19-2020, 01:25 PM   #15
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The RV will only pull what the plug can supply.
It won't trip breakers (under normal circumstances)
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Old 12-19-2020, 02:51 PM   #16
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Maybe what I was saying was confusing. If I have my RV plugged into a 15amp plug using a dog bone at the house. As soon as the inverter kicks on and tries to pull 20amp the breaker at my house trips. It doesn’t matter what is turned on in the RV. I had to use a external charger to charge my house batteries. I have since run a 50amp so I do t have to worry about it.
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Old 12-19-2020, 02:56 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky-in-AR View Post
Maybe what I was saying was confusing. If I have my RV plugged into a 15amp plug using a dog bone at the house. As soon as the inverter kicks on and tries to pull 20amp the breaker at my house trips. It doesn’t matter what is turned on in the RV. I had to use a external charger to charge my house batteries. I have since run a 50amp so I do t have to worry about it.


What is turned on in the rv. If you don’t have anything turned on you have a short circuit. That should blow a fuse. You probably have some load turned on. Turn everything off then plug it in
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Old 12-19-2020, 03:30 PM   #18
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I’m not having a problem. I have tested and verified I cannot run on a 15amp circuit. I was suggesting to the OP why the dealer might say he couldn’t plug his RV into 15amp shore power to run his refrigerator.
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Old 12-19-2020, 10:15 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Rocky-in-AR View Post
I’m not having a problem. I have tested and verified I cannot run on a 15amp circuit. I was suggesting to the OP why the dealer might say he couldn’t plug his RV into 15amp shore power to run his refrigerator.
I got it. He needs to pull his 15 amp breaker out of his home panel and replace it with a 20. Easy fix.
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Old 12-19-2020, 11:30 PM   #20
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Not a good idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo56 View Post
I got it. He needs to pull his 15 amp breaker out of his home panel and replace it with a 20. Easy fix.
Just upsizing your breaker is not a good idea. The 15 amp breaker is there to protect the 14awg wire size, not the equipment plugged in.The circuit needs to have 12awg wire to be able to have a 20 amp breaker. This is per National Electrical Code.
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