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Old 08-18-2015, 06:28 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Oregon
Posts: 2
THOR #2681
Entry door sticking on ACE27.1

Having an issue with entry door sticking. Need to put hip into door to open. This only to seems to occur when jacks are down and slide is out. When on wheels with slid in no problem. I know it is most likely flex between leveling and the long slide being out. Thought it was temp related at 1st but is occurring in any climate.
What I'm looking for is, has anyone dealt with this and what was the adjustment done to correct/minimize the issue? I have had it in to dealer once for this already but no real help, don't have time to keep taking it back in if I can do myself. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-19-2015, 02:08 AM   #2
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: A.C.E. 30.2
State: Utah
Posts: 127
THOR #2562
My ACE 30.2 was having major problems with the door getting stuck. The door was hitting the strike plate. If yours is hitting the same way there's a couple ways to fix it. The easiest way is to take a hammer and hit the mounting screws on the strike plate denting in the frame slightly. Make sure your a good aim with a hammer. The second is to get screws with flatter heads and slightly longer. Place washers behind the door frame spacing the strike plate back and use the new screws.
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Old 08-19-2015, 04:14 AM   #3
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 27.1
State: Oregon
Posts: 2
THOR #2681
West, Thanks for the suggestions, this sounds exactly like what I am seeing. I am going to be tackling this over the weekend. Thank You very much for the suggestions.
I will feedback how thing go. Thanks again.
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:50 PM   #4
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2015 Hurricane 34 J
State: Ohio
Posts: 567
THOR #1295
My Hurricane was doing the same and this is what I did.


I figured it was due to the full side slide being so heavy it was putting stress on the rig when it was out (making the RV off level) - even though the rig was leveled on the hydraulic jacks (This sounds like you problem too).... To compensate, I re calibrated the jacks to read level when it was a little off - to the right (psg) side. Now when the jacks are down and the slide is out - the level I place on the floor reads perfect level (the weight of the slide is pulling the RV level) and the door opens and closes with one finger!


I would definitely try this before I started beating on your expensive RV with a hammer!!!!!
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Old 08-19-2015, 07:03 PM   #5
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 34E
State: California
Posts: 524
THOR #937
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nursx2 View Post
My Hurricane was doing the same and this is what I did.


I figured it was due to the full side slide being so heavy it was putting stress on the rig when it was out (making the RV off level) - even though the rig was leveled on the hydraulic jacks (This sounds like you problem too).... To compensate, I re calibrated the jacks to read level when it was a little off - to the right (psg) side. Now when the jacks are down and the slide is out - the level I place on the floor reads perfect level (the weight of the slide is pulling the RV level) and the door opens and closes with one finger!


I would definitely try this before I started beating on your expensive RV with a hammer!!!!!

Darren,

Your solution makes too much sense!

My Hurricane 34E's door is sticky, depending on how it's leveled. When it's on the wheels, the door is fine. And sometimes, if I get lucky after leveling, it's fine. I have occasionally experimented with the level button to force-flex the coach box a little until the door doesn't stick.

But, calibrating the leveling system where the door doesn't stick is sheer genius!


I also prefer not to bash in the door frame or strike plate with a hammer! I'd probably end up with a gap big enough for mosquitos to enter!!
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Old 08-19-2015, 11:18 PM   #6
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Model: 2015 Hurricane 34 J
State: Ohio
Posts: 567
THOR #1295
Hey Beacher,


I could not do this with my old 2003 Class C Sunseeker, as it did not have the jacks, but I noticed the door would not stick if I used one more orange leveler on the drivers side (same concept)! So I tried it on the new Hurricane and BINGO!


Genius? Nah! Just a lucky outcome to an educated theory and a whole load of Thor frustration!


I am just glad it worked! ha ha


Darren
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Old 08-21-2015, 01:03 AM   #7
J&C
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State: Florida
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THOR #2190
I'm having the same problem with my 2016 ACE 27.1. NURSX2, could you explain how you re calibrated the jacks. Thanks in advance.

Jim
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Old 08-21-2015, 04:51 AM   #8
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: A.C.E. 30.2
State: Utah
Posts: 127
THOR #2562
Mine was extremely bad. We would be stuck inside unable to get out at gas stations sometimes on hot days we couldn't close the door. I would upload a video of it if I knew how and cared enough to figure it out. You knock the hammer trick but it works extremely well and now I don't have to mess with trying to tweak my motorhome's chassis to make an improperly installed door work. If you look at mine and the ones I've done for a couple other people the hammer method works the best and is the most unnoticed. Plus you can't beat how quick and easy it is. One quick tap on the top and bottom mounting screw and your done. My local dealer is the one who showed me this and says that's how they do it.
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Old 08-21-2015, 08:07 PM   #9
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Model: 2015 Hurricane 34 J
State: Ohio
Posts: 567
THOR #1295
J & C,


I parked on a level road (actually used my driveway). I used a large 4 foot carpenter's level in the center of the coach placed on the floor with the slide in (running from front to rear). Select manual level (jacks) and raise the front of the coach till it is perfectly level- as read on the level which is on the floor. (Always level front to back first - manufacturer suggestion).


Then I turn the floor carpenter's level so it is going from side to side (left to right). Again use the manual level feature to level the coach so the ball is a little to the left (coach is off level to the right).
Click image for larger version

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All depending on how long/heavy your slide is will determine how much off level (left to right) you will need. Then I calibrate the system at that point. The computer will now go to that same spot with the auto level function. When you slide out the driver's side slide, the weight will pull the coach to the left and compensate the "calibrated level" and bring it back to true level - and the door does not stick!


I was extremely lucky as I only needed to do this once, but you may have to experiment to find the sweet spot - depending on how heavy your slide is and how much it moves the coach. Mine has been golden ever since, and we have been out a lot since on all types of sites!


(The level pic is just for illustration purposed of course and yours will be different.)


Good luck!

Darren
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Old 08-21-2015, 08:11 PM   #10
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THOR #1295
West, I am not knocking your fix. If it worked for you then great I say! I just did this fix and it worked. There are more than one way to skin a cat, after all.


I just do not want to beat on a problem, well at least not at the start! lol


That is what this forum is about - many problems and hopefully many fixes!


Darren
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