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Old 09-20-2019, 05:20 PM   #1241
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Gemini 23TR
State: Ontario
Posts: 54
THOR #14621
Hi Nancy,

Today is my at computer day.

There is a small black plastic latch on each side of the drawer right near the front of each track. One goes up the other goes down. You lift one and press down on the other and this releases the track so that you can pull the drawer out.

On my TR the electronics are under the furnace and there is a door that flips down. The drawer is above that. I think that every coach was made differently!

Just found either my grey water tank or fresh water tank under the drawers of my rear slide. How does the plumbing work? That would mean that there are no solid pipes!

Anyone with an answer, I am sitting here with a worm on my tongue (baited breath)!

BTW, I have the new LCI panel and believe that it doesn’t tell me the truth about levels or info. The solar charge controller in the coach gives a different reading so you have to be a detective to understand that every manufacturer’s gear uses different algorithms to provide a reading and that you have to revert to old school. I am going to have it checked for accuracy. I have been using a multimeter to check the voltage of the batteries and estimating their level.

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Old 09-20-2019, 06:00 PM   #1242
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Model: Gemini 23TR
State: California
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THOR #6701
Hello Big Wheel,

Yes my batteries charge great from the engine alternator. And yes, when the batteries discharged it was plugged into the garage. The only thing I had different than normal was the refrigerator was accidentally turned on to 12 volt. So I assume the fridge takes more 12 volt power than the charger puts out there fore drawing the batteries down. Otherwise the batteries do great sitting at home and occasionally plug into the garage for a few hours.

Our trip we just finished required boon docking for two nights. We ran the fridge on LP and the second day I ran the generator for about an hour to give the batteries a little bump. All when great except it rained the entire time.

Your fresh water tank should be on the drivers side accessed from a small removable panel in the rear storage compartment. Actually that's the pump and drain access. From there you can see the plumbing.

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1569001637
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Old 09-20-2019, 07:59 PM   #1243
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Compass 23TR
State: Texas
Posts: 111
THOR #7972
Wfco8900

Nancy,
On my 2017 23TR the relays are under the furnace. There’s a cover behind the hinged door I removed. Served no purpose that I can see. Will the generator start with the use/store switch in”store” and the engine off?

Big Wheel,
Call Thor with your VIN number and ask for the plumbing assembly drawings. I got everything they had for mine, Plumbing & Electrical. The electrical drawings are a little cryptic but the plumbing should answer your questions.
Good luck,
Hugh
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Old 09-20-2019, 08:16 PM   #1244
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THOR #14621
I had a bunch of questions that I didn't want to bore all of you with so I just spent 1.5 hours on the line with Thor. They were somewhat helpful, they do try.

That tank under my bed is the grey tank #2. How it is plumbed is the mystery that I will sort through. And thank you mountainsam, I found the access panel. My slide controller connections go through it and it is held on by 2 screws.

Nancy, I asked a lot of questions about the electrical. Since my MH came solar ready, kinda sorta, it was a bit more involved. The storage shut off switch is the one that is inside the coach door. Glows red when turned on (or so it should). The 50A breaker in the battery compartment is a breaker that sits after the wiring from under your furnace to the shut off switch and to the batteries. Apparently there is nothing in that cabinet under the furnace that you need to turn on or off. I reserve the right to be smarter today than I was yesterday and can be proven wrong at any time. Hope this helps you.

As a side note: my background forces me to play around with all things electrical and I have the burns to prove it. Your issue may be something as simple as a corroded ground wire. This could be in one of the connectors to the batteries, in that 50A breaker connection, or could be a broken wire at the converter. In all it is a detective story in the making. I would start with the obvious and clean up the connections, both hot and ground and make sure that all of the cables are good, clean and make good connection. Sometimes these things only show up when you make a change such as you just did with your batteries. Maybe you and your friend can take the batteries back out and service the connections on the cables that attach to the terminals, service the connections to the 50A breaker and then hook everything back up, you might be pleasantly surprised. Otherwise, you have a service appointment.;-)

I have been flummoxed by bad grounds over the years on boats, snowmobiles and ATV's. Nothing like developing a bad ground on a winter day when its -30 and the snowmobile quits in the middle of nowhere!

TNX again for all of your information. I hope that in some small way this helps you out. Have a fantastic weekend.
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Old 09-20-2019, 08:40 PM   #1245
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THOR #14621
Hi Hugh,

TNX for the info.

Actually I went to the owners section on the Thor website and downloaded all of the documents for my coach. There were 70 docs for mine. I have all of the schematics. The challenge is that the diagrams were done when the coaches were designed. It appears that the people who build these take ‘poetic’ license during the build. I have made changes to my diagrams based on what I have found. Nothing like owning a rolling mystery novel!

TNX
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Old 09-20-2019, 09:14 PM   #1246
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Model: Miramar 37.1
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THOR #12698
The plumbing is usually done with pex plastic tubing. Red for hot and blue for cold. There are no solid water lines usually. You will be amazed at how they run the water lines in and around objects.
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Old 09-20-2019, 09:24 PM   #1247
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THOR #14621
Hi Paul, I get that for inbound water but this is a grey water tank or so they say. How do they get the water to drain uphill? I have to get this coach to my daughters shop and have a look under it. The schematics are sketchy.

TNX for the reply.
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Old 09-20-2019, 09:34 PM   #1248
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THOR #14621
Nancy, I think I uploaded the schematic for the batteries, generator, chassis and related selenoids, and breakers. The way I follow this it looks like you cannot run the generator and charge the batteries with the switch off.

Worth a check to see.
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Old 09-20-2019, 09:34 PM   #1249
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If you look under the motor home, you will see the black plastic pipe (pvc pipe) used for the grey/black dump lines. The lines are usually slightly higher where the exit from the tank(s) and go lower as they go towards the sewage dump valve. Your coach may have two grey tanks and one black tank depending on the make/model. The lines merge into one dump valve where you connect your sewer hose to dump out into a dump station. Always dump the black tank first and close it off before dumping the grey tank(s). This is done so that the grey tank fluids "wash" out the sewer hose of all of the black waste from the toilet(s).
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Old 09-20-2019, 09:41 PM   #1250
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THOR #14621
TNX. I get all that and that is what I do.

Work with me, the grey tank #2 is under the drawers of the slide out. This places it above all of the drain lines. The shower sinks and toilet are gravity drains to their respective tanks.

I believe that the tank in the slide is the fresh water. Then the pex pipe hook up would make sense for that but flexing the lines is not a good idea on a regular basis and especially in colder climates.

Anyways, as I have always said, I appreciate the inputs as it makes me think about the situation and look for the right solution. I just need to get my eyes on it. Getting in the pit will also let me check the generator oil and connections.

TNX
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Old 09-22-2019, 04:30 AM   #1251
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THOR #5922
Thanks, Big Wheel and Hugh, for the wiring info and suggestions.
I do know there is something electrical under the drawer (below my microwave) as well as the converter and the fuse panel under the furnace. I'm hoping to get a look at whatever that is tomorrow. I will take a picture. I don't see it on the wiring diagram...
I know my connections on the cables are good as my friend roughed them up with fine sandpaper prior to reconnecting.
I was happy to read the comment that the 50amp breaker was likely working given the power to the lights etc. while on shore power and for the same reason I am hoping the no cables were crossed during the battery replacement process.
That leaves the mystery box under the drawer and as I might have mentioned I think this was the culprit in an early similar situation with my 2017 Gemini.
Nancy
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Old 09-22-2019, 06:50 PM   #1252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmcmilla View Post
Thanks, Big Wheel and Hugh, for the wiring info and suggestions.
I do know there is something electrical under the drawer (below my microwave) as well as the converter and the fuse panel under the furnace. I'm hoping to get a look at whatever that is tomorrow. I will take a picture. I don't see it on the wiring diagram...
I know my connections on the cables are good as my friend roughed them up with fine sandpaper prior to reconnecting.
I was happy to read the comment that the 50amp breaker was likely working given the power to the lights etc. while on shore power and for the same reason I am hoping the no cables were crossed during the battery replacement process.
That leaves the mystery box under the drawer and as I might have mentioned I think this was the culprit in an early similar situation with my 2017 Gemini.
Nancy
I posted this on the other thread:
SO the box under my drawer (under the microwave) contains an Automatic Transfer Relay 5100 Series. On Amazon this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza
I believe this is what failed the last time I have a similar problem.

I took pictures and will post them here later. Nancy
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Old 09-22-2019, 08:38 PM   #1253
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THOR #14621
TNX Nancy for making look under that drawer. I found out why my latch wasn’t working properly. The block was cracked.

Also, this link: https://www.rvtechmag.com/electrical/chapter4.php

Takes you to RV Tech Magazine online. They have a great description of the Auto Transfer Switch and what to look for and how to fix and maintain it. I always like to start with the most obvious things and in my life they are usually bad grounds. When you read the article you’ll understand that my go solution would be the whack the box and see if that gets the contacts unstuck.

I look forward to the outcome and it being positive.

Be Well.
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:01 PM   #1254
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THOR #6701
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Wheel View Post

I believe that the tank in the slide is the fresh water. Then the pex pipe hook up would make sense for that but flexing the lines is not a good idea on a regular basis and especially in colder climates.


TNX
That rear tank is fresh water. It should have a drain valve in the wet bay or in the water pump area. I think the new model 23TR has it in the wet bay. The tank as you know doesn't move with the slide so no line flexing required.
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:21 PM   #1255
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THOR #14621
Ah mountainsam you made me look!

I wasn’t paying attention and I thank you for making me smarter. That part of the rear does not slide out. I sit corrected.

My fresh water drain valve is beside the grey water tank valves in the aft drivers side bay.

TNX again for answering my questions, crazy as some of them may be.
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:31 PM   #1256
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THOR #6701
Big Wheel

Glad I could help, that's what this forum is all about.
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:35 PM   #1257
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State: Alabama
Posts: 74
THOR #7475
Any one know if any rv shows with Thor sales reps in the central Illinois "ish " area during the weekend of October 4th thu 7th. I have water leek situation around front moon window I'd like to grill them about. My warranty is up.
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Old 09-22-2019, 11:06 PM   #1258
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yikes, one of my greatest fears. Hope you find a solution, maybe Thor Customer Service can steer you in the right direction. Good Luck
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Old 09-22-2019, 11:28 PM   #1259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Wheel View Post
TNX Nancy for making look under that drawer. I found out why my latch wasn’t working properly. The block was cracked.

Also, this link: https://www.rvtechmag.com/electrical/chapter4.php

Takes you to RV Tech Magazine online. They have a great description of the Auto Transfer Switch and what to look for and how to fix and maintain it. I always like to start with the most obvious things and in my life they are usually bad grounds. When you read the article you’ll understand that my go solution would be the whack the box and see if that gets the contacts unstuck.

I look forward to the outcome and it being positive.

Be Well.
Great info in your link! I think I will take a close look at the contacts and maybe whack it too;-) This will be the part I'll worry about " Always be sure to disconnect the shore power cord and make sure that the generator cannot start before performing any work on the transfer switch. The presence of 120-volt current can be fatal if you accidentally touch the wrong parts. "
I see the ground wire disappearing into some spray foam so that end will be hard to check.
Nancy
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Old 09-23-2019, 05:04 PM   #1260
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Compass 23TR
State: Texas
Posts: 111
THOR #7972
Decided to pull my coach batteries yesterday. I was concerned about white fuzz on one battery post & general condition of the battery box. I cleaned up the terminals a few months ago so I was a little surprised to see battery corrosion. One battery was at 12.6 volts(perfect) and the other 12.1(a little low). I added distilled water & wire brushed all connections.
I have been using deep cycle batteries for years(since 1977 yikes ) in boats. Keep them charged but don’t cook them is the challenge. The photo is the best solution I’ve found. Delta Volt chargers aren’t cheep but you get what you pay for. I have an extra SS2 10 A I decided to connect to my coach batteries before connecting them back in parallel. This morning they are fully charged and cool to the touch. Also no trace of boil over. Will put wiring back to stock & connect WFCO8900 today. Our problem with the WFCO is paralleling two batteries. If one battery starts to fail the WFCO not go into maintenance mode cooking the good battery along with the weak one.
Also removed surface rust on battery box & repainted. I put a rubber mat under the batteries.

With the batteries out I took a good photo of the 50A circuit breaker and the battery plus connector. One #6 to battery positive , one to generator starter, and one to “Use/Store” relay contact via 50 A circuit breaker.

Hugh
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