House Batteries

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by jannnda

Thanks for all your help. I will take a look next week and see if I can do this.

the one that’s labeled “kitchen “ is the breaker for the GFCI plugs. We are about to leave so I can’t get a picture from the back. Can you tell from this pic if a gfci breaker will work/fit?

[cavie]

Originally Posted by jannnda

I won’t detail the entire story, no one has that amount of time. But over a six month period I took the MH to eight different people. The authorized Tiffin warranty provider was my favorite. They could not get a GFCI to work ever. They called Thor and did everything they suggested and nothing worked.

Please tell me the down side of not having a GFCI? And what I should look out for or not do. The choice of adding a (imho) GFCI is not an option. I respect your 35 years of experience, I feel this is the only solution available to me. Thanks

RV's are for the most part are wired per the National Electric CODE. NEC. Any outlet with 6' of a water source are REQUIRED to be GFI protected. Also any outlet outside at ground level even those inside a compartment.

Gfi's are designed to disconnect much faster the a standard breaker. It is a lifesaving issue. Your son should know better. Do a Google search of "How does a GFI work"?

As stated, you don't repair a GFI you replace it. If the new one does not work than you must look for the short. I can not believe that 8 people did not know any of this. GFI's have been code since the late 80's.

50 years experience as an electrician. 35 of them as a master.

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by cavie

RV's are for the most part are wired per the National Electric CODE. NEC. Any outlet with 6' of a water source are REQUIRED to be GFI protected. Also any outlet outside at ground level even those inside a compartment.



Gfi's are designed to disconnect much faster the a standard breaker. It is a lifesaving issue. Your son should know better. Do a Google search of "How does a GFI work"?



As stated, you don't repair a GFI you replace it. If the new one does not work than you must look for the short. I can not believe that 8 people did not know any of this. GFI's have been code since the late 80's.



50 years experience as an electrician. 35 of them as a master.

I appreciate your experience. As far as helping me with my issue.... not so much. I have owned at least 40 houses that were built before gfci were required and never had an issue. Lucky? Maybe. All I am trying to do is find a way to get a gfci installed. Now that I know I can get a breaker with a gfci built into it. That’s what I will try. My son doesn’t work on residential. So he admits it may be something he would never seen. Now, if you have any ideas on how or what I can do to fix this great. If not, I really don’t need another person that is not adding any value.

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by Beau388

:Look in your power center's manual for the exact circuit breaker you need. If it is a WFCO-9555 then Murray MP or MH, Siemens QP or QT, Square D HOM or Eaton BR are some some that will fit. Lowes or Home Depot has them all on the website My Power center is a PPS 4560, so what I have will be slightly different. Before you buy make sure your power center can accommodate the larger GFCI breaker.

Beau388 here is a picture of the power center. The breaker marked “kitchen “ is the breaker. Do you think a gfci will work/fit? Thanks.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by jannnda

Attachment 21184
the one that’s labeled “kitchen “ is the breaker for the GFCI plugs. We are about to leave so I can’t get a picture from the back. Can you tell from this pic if a gfci breaker will work/fit?

It appears (it the label is to be believed) that the TV and kitchen use the the same circuit breaker. Although that is not allowed under code, Thor doesn't always follow residential electrical code. Shown are some tandem one pole circuit breakers -two circuit breakers in one standard space. Most CAFCI and GFCI required a full space because of the electronics in side.
The cheapest GFCI CB I see is an Eaton BR for $37.90. Your present kitchen is a Siemens QP 15 amp, so the Eaton should be a perfect replacement. You CANNOT use a "plug on neutral" CB in this type of power center (load center) but you MUST use a CB with a white pigtail. Unlike the standard CB, the circuit's hot lead (black) and the common (white) are attached to the GFCI CB's base by separate screws and the pigtail (also white) is attached to the common bus. The ground wire (green) remains attached to the ground bus in the load center.

Unlike the duplex GFCI receptacles, you can tell why the GFCI CB trips: ground fault or overload. CAFCI CBs have the two trip modes also: arc in circuit or overload.

There are now "dual mode" circuit breakers that combine all functions of a GFCI and CAFCI. I have not use any but have two ordered to replace my present GFCIs.

For those of you that are wondering where all the CB go in a power center with only 10 positions, I have a sub panel for the inverter and its three
duplex receptacle circuits as well as the two GFCI circuits in my little coach.

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by Beau388

It appears (it the label is to be believed) that the TV and kitchen use the the same circuit breaker. Although that is not allowed under code, Thor doesn't always follow residential electrical code. Shown are some tandem one pole circuit breakers -two circuit breakers in one standard space. Most CAFCI and GFCI required a full space because of the electronics in side.
The cheapest GFCI CB I see is an Eaton BR for $37.90. Your present kitchen is a Siemens QP 15 amp, so the Eaton should be a perfect replacement. You CANNOT use a "plug on neutral" CB in this type of power center (load center) but you MUST use a CB with a white pigtail. Unlike the standard CB, the circuit's hot lead (black) and the common (white) are attached to the GFCI CB's base by separate screws and the pigtail (also white) is attached to the common bus. The ground wire (green) remains attached to the ground bus in the load center.

Unlike the duplex GFCI receptacles, you can tell why the GFCI CB trips: ground fault or overload. CAFCI CBs have the two trip modes also: arc in circuit or overload.

There are now "dual mode" circuit breakers that combine all functions of a GFCI and CAFCI. I have not use any but have two ordered to replace my present GFCIs.

For those of you that are wondering where all the CB go in a power center with only 10 positions, I have a sub panel for the inverter and its three
duplex receptacle circuits as well as the two GFCI circuits in my little coach.

Got it. When I get back I will order the breaker. I know the label says “TV” but when you trip it all the tv’s stay on. In fact the only label that is correct is the kitchen.....if you don’t count the tv thing.

[BASSMAN]

Your original quiestion was batteries going dead, alway check your source first, in this case your batteries, new batteries fail just like old ones, the Interstate Batteries in my coach were only 6 month old when the first one failed and 2 months later the second one failed and this was a new coach, charge your batteries up and find some one with a load tester, you can buy them at Harbor Freight or a better one on line from Amazon, if you have a cell in one of the batteries shorting out it will kill both batteries, usually you can open up the battery compartment and smell the rotten eggs,

[Grant brazil]

I installed battery disconnects on both the house & chassis batteries .

[Bob Denman]

I isolated the House batteries... but I didn't mess with the one under the driver's floorboards. (The chassis battery!)

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1573081009

[cavie]

Go to Lowes or Home Depot and have a look at a GFI breakers. I think you will find that they do not fit into the very small RV panels that are usually loaded with twin breakers. You will need a complete 1" wide space to install. It is also a much longer breaker. That is why they us GFI outlets in the bathroom. You will also need to find the wire that goes to the bathroom as as the Black and White are hooked to the breaker. A white coiled wire on the breaker will got to the neutral bar. If you have a short this will not fix the problem. You will have to find the short.