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Old 11-03-2018, 10:30 PM   #41
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Why would there be "loose sewage" in the wet bay?
Did you route a heater outlet to the new location to help prevent freezing while camping?
I had a hose split at the fitting and nature took its course, it was a pretty new hose too but apparent had a stress crack or fracture. Despite that putting the fresh water pump and supply in the sewer bay is just bad engineering.

Yes on the heater and freezing while rv'ing
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Old 11-03-2018, 10:32 PM   #42
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Wait until you hear the difference going down the highway. It will make you ride "feel" smoother.
So did you also deaden your coach?
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Old 11-03-2018, 10:51 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Tfryman View Post
Why would there be "loose sewage" in the wet bay?
Did you route a heater outlet to the new location to help prevent freezing while camping?
To clarify, I did not route a furnace duct to the bay as my furnace is in the slide out and no way to do that so I put in a 120v outlet and installed an electric heater with a thermostat on it.
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Old 11-04-2018, 01:25 AM   #44
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So did you also deaden your coach?
Yep, original layer of Thor installed material (reworked to actually cover everything) plus a layer of DynoMat on the dog house, plus a layer of DynoMat under the flat areas to the left and right of the dog house. Really made a great difference.
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Old 11-04-2018, 11:56 AM   #45
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Did I see “washer/dryer install” on your list? If so, care to share pics and install details. I’m curious!
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Old 11-04-2018, 02:47 PM   #46
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Did I see “washer/dryer install” on your list? If so, care to share pics and install details. I’m curious!
Yes you did see that, here is a link to post I made about it Ace 29.3 Washer Dryer addition any specific questions just message me.
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Old 11-04-2018, 03:17 PM   #47
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DB Reading getting up to speed


Average DB reading at driving speed 55mph


The difference between the 2 readings at speed is one was the ipad laying on the cowling and the second more quite was it sitting in my lap which is probably closer to reality
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Old 11-04-2018, 03:18 PM   #48
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DB reading engine off and at engine idle. These reading are lower than I tested yesterday but then I was inside a building and these were taking outside, that is the only difference I can think of,
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Old 11-14-2018, 05:09 AM   #49
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The flush that I built was specific to move waste away from the bottom of the toilet. On the Ace the toilet sits over the most shallow part of the tank on the taper and it doesnt have enough slope to slide away, sometimes a lot of water will move it by dumping down the toilet but then you end up filling the black tank way too soon. As far as flushing the tank itself it does nothing. A solution I considered using was drilling a hole in the end of the tank that would be big enough to get my power wash wand through and sized to be able to plug it with one of those rubber tapered plugs with a nut and bolt to squeeze them tight. Then whenever you wanted to flush the tank just pop the plug out. Sensors are a real pain but this would fix that I believe as long as you have a good angle to hit the sensors.
Not sure what year your 29.3 is but on our 2017 the bathroom sink is connected to the black tank. If need be you can fill the sink up and then release it and it will push everything away from the toilet. With the factory installed black water flush, we have had no issues with the sensors either. On another note, where did you install the WD? And lastly, we were looking at adding a additional A/C unit too. It is factory wired already for the A/C, through the rear air vent. You remove the air vent and install the A/C unit there. The wires are hidden in the roof there. But when I started looking at the duct work, I found that the ducts had gaps and ran the entire length of the coach. So I dammed up the vents at the last reg. That cut around 18" to 2' from the A/C having to push air where it just backs up. Now even in 100'F weather it keeps the coach in the low 80's high 70's. The A/C main duct was not sealed either so sealed it up correctly also.
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:59 PM   #50
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Not sure what year your 29.3 is but on our 2017 the bathroom sink is connected to the black tank. If need be you can fill the sink up and then release it and it will push everything away from the toilet. With the factory installed black water flush, we have had no issues with the sensors either. On another note, where did you install the WD? And lastly, we were looking at adding a additional A/C unit too. It is factory wired already for the A/C, through the rear air vent. You remove the air vent and install the A/C unit there. The wires are hidden in the roof there. But when I started looking at the duct work, I found that the ducts had gaps and ran the entire length of the coach. So I dammed up the vents at the last reg. That cut around 18" to 2' from the A/C having to push air where it just backs up. Now even in 100'F weather it keeps the coach in the low 80's high 70's. The A/C main duct was not sealed either so sealed it up correctly also.
I have a 2015 and yes the sink is connected to the black tank but dumping a sink full of water down to move the mass is counterproductive if you are trying to conserve tank volume.

On the WD, I removed the dinette set and connected into the plumbing in the bathroom.

On the AC, I had to run wires because in 2015 it was not an option. Is your coach a 50amp? If it is still 30 amp you will have issues trying to run both off of that. On the ducts in the ceiling, I found this out about them not being blocked and open to the rear but mainly the front cap back earlier this year and posted for others to check theirs. One ac was still not enough if sitting in blaring sun.
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Old 11-14-2018, 06:16 PM   #51
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On another note, where did you install the WD?
Here is a link to the WD install Ace 29.3 Washer Dryer addition It was a simple install really, just tough working in the confines of a small area under the bath sink. The dinette was a waste for us as it is just my wife and me and we eat at the little table you can put between the seats so the WD was way more important to her and we just added a couple of kitchen base cabinets that the table from the dinette fit perfectly on. So we gained a lot of storage space for our long trips.
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Old 11-15-2018, 02:00 AM   #52
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Thanks for the info on the WD!! As for the A/C, no I did not install a second A/C unit. It was not necessary after I made sure the A/C ducts were sealed and capped off.
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Old 11-18-2018, 06:44 PM   #53
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The AC unit was a 15,000 btu, $750 and I had about $30 in a breaker and a box. I had to fish a wire from the vent opening over to the wall and down and then underneath the bed. I wired into the new box I bought and put a 20 amp breaker in it. Then ran a wire out the bottom of the bed area with the other wires into the rear drivers bay and installed an additional 30 amp receptacle. I can use a 30 to 15 amp adapter and plug into the post if need be but I bought a double 30amp dongle to a 50 amp plug. Installing the actual was the easiest part! lol. I also got the ac with heat strip.

This made a world of difference, with just the one air if we were in full sun on a hot day we couldnt get the coach below about 85* now its no problem.
Is there any special reason you decided to not add a 11k or 13.5k BTU as 2nd AC to be wired to your existing 30 Amp Service?

I ask thinking if you are boondocking you could run both with generator to help cool down and then shut one or the other down as you need?

Also, is it possible to do both? Meaning having a switch of some sorts that allows power to be source from addition 30Amp source you created or to be wired into the existing power that is fed by Generator & other 30 amp power source.
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Old 11-23-2018, 04:24 AM   #54
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While I was in the dealer the other day a customer with a 29.3 had installed a second A/C (the dealer said he could with all the installed wiring and 4000 gen). What he was trying to convey to the service person was when he had the first A/C on everything worked find (using the gen). When he try to start the second A/C the generator would surge to the point of almost stalling out. Long story, is the installed a regular 15,000 BTU A/C unit. With both trying to run off of the generator it can not produce the AMPs to get the 2nd A/C up to speed and maintain the required power to both. A tech was called in to see what could be done. He said there are A/C units out there that have really low draw but are only around 10,000 BTU's..... So that might be a way to go. I haven't researched it yet to see if that indeed true. I do know for the Thor models like ours, there is ducting and wiring set up already. You have to remove the rear fan/vent and everything is there.
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Old 11-23-2018, 12:15 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Thor29.3inAZ View Post
While I was in the dealer the other day a customer with a 29.3 had installed a second A/C (the dealer said he could with all the installed wiring and 4000 gen). What he was trying to convey to the service person was when he had the first A/C on everything worked find (using the gen). When he try to start the second A/C the generator would surge to the point of almost stalling out. Long story, is the installed a regular 15,000 BTU A/C unit. With both trying to run off of the generator it can not produce the AMPs to get the 2nd A/C up to speed and maintain the required power to both. A tech was called in to see what could be done. He said there are A/C units out there that have really low draw but are only around 10,000 BTU's..... So that might be a way to go. I haven't researched it yet to see if that indeed true. I do know for the Thor models like ours, there is ducting and wiring set up already. You have to remove the rear fan/vent and everything is there.
I think if you put one of the small units in that it could run both but it will still be on the verge of maxing out, turn on the Microwave or a coffee pot or hair dryer its gonna kill the generator. I believe that most of us that installed a second AC have put it on a separate line that has to be plugged in. I personally cant see trying to run 2 ac's off of the generator while driving and if you are boon docking then you need to reconsider if it is worth it, the fuel being used will rival paying for a fhu site in a campground.
Someone didnt put any thought into the consequences of installing a second ac on the same service for the rest of the rv. The real issue even if both AC's are under 30 amps together is the startup. A 13,500 unit can pull 20 amps on start
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Old 11-23-2018, 12:24 PM   #56
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I looked on the coleman mach10, it is a 13,500 btu unit and draws 11.6 amps after up and running. The 15,000 uses 14.4 amps so theoretically running both is capable but once again getting them running and that would only leave 4 amps for other uses, the tv will use up to 2 amps.

Are the new ACE's still 30 amp or are they offering a 50 amp version now?
I put my 2nd AC on its on line and ran to a 2 circuit panel and then to a 30 amp receptacle. What I do if I am going to be at a park and think I need the cooling is I bought a 50amp to (2) 30amp dongles, then plug the rv into one and the receptacle I installed into the 2nd. Works great.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 11-23-2018, 01:19 PM   #57
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I looked on the coleman mach10, it is a 13,500 btu unit and draws 11.6 amps after up and running. The 15,000 uses 14.4 amps so theoretically running both is capable but once again getting them running and that would only leave 4 amps for other uses, the tv will use up to 2 amps.



Are the new ACE's still 30 amp or are they offering a 50 amp version now?

I put my 2nd AC on its on line and ran to a 2 circuit panel and then to a 30 amp receptacle. What I do if I am going to be at a park and think I need the cooling is I bought a 50amp to (2) 30amp dongles, then plug the rv into one and the receptacle I installed into the 2nd. Works great.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Or the Mach 1. 11,000BTU but only 9.7 amps on full cooling.
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Old 11-23-2018, 02:33 PM   #58
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What I have learned thus far....

My current plight...
1. A RV with 2 ACs is a must. I am looking to buy one with duals AC. I may have to wait until more 2019 29.3s are available at reasonable pricing to find one.
2. If a unit fell in my lap and it was 1 AC with 30 amp service, I could factor cost to add 2nd AC as part of the total cost.

Best way to get 2nd AC running off 30amp and 4Kw Generator in order of preferred method.
1. Replace existing 15k BTU with a new 13.5k PS (Power Saver) BTU and add 2nd new 11.0k BTU (Power Saver)
or
2. Replace existing 15k BTU with a new 11.0k PS (Power Saver) BTU and add 2nd new 11.0k BTU (Power Saver)
or
3. Keep existing 15k BTU and add 2nd new 11.0k BTU (Power Saver). Wire to separate 20 AMP breaker, but leave plug where you could optionally unplug from the 20 amp shore service to plug into the 30 amp shore service on coach 30 amp and 4kw generator. In this config you would know that you can't run other heavy stuff at the same time, but if you had need, you could run the rear AC without turning on the front AC.

For me, I would likely try #3 first and when / if the 15k BTU had any issues, I would downgrade it to 13.5k BTU
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Old 11-23-2018, 02:53 PM   #59
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My current plight...
1. A RV with 2 ACs is a must. I am looking to buy one with duals AC. I may have to wait until more 2019 29.3s are available at reasonable pricing to find one.
2. If a unit fell in my lap and it was 1 AC with 30 amp service, I could factor cost to add 2nd AC as part of the total cost.

Best way to get 2nd AC running off 30amp and 4Kw Generator in order of preferred method.
1. Replace existing 15k BTU with a new 13.5k PS (Power Saver) BTU and add 2nd new 11.0k BTU (Power Saver)
or
2. Replace existing 15k BTU with a new 11.0k PS (Power Saver) BTU and add 2nd new 11.0k BTU (Power Saver)
or
3. Keep existing 15k BTU and add 2nd new 11.0k BTU (Power Saver). Wire to separate 20 AMP breaker, but leave plug where you could optionally unplug from the 20 amp shore service to plug into the 30 amp shore service on coach 30 amp and 4kw generator. In this config you would know that you can't run other heavy stuff at the same time, but if you had need, you could run the rear AC without turning on the front AC.

For me, I would likely try #3 first and when / if the 15k BTU had any issues, I would downgrade it to 13.5k BTU
Replacing a 15k with a 13.5 is an expensive option to save 1.7 amps. Better off leaving the 15 k alone and just purchase the smaller unit for the bedroom. Basically your option 3 is what I do, I just installed an additional 30amp receptacle right above the original, I have the option of using the 30 amp or use a reducer and run off the 20 amp circuit on the power post.
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Old 11-23-2018, 03:35 PM   #60
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Replacing a 15k with a 13.5 is an expensive option to save 1.7 amps. Better off leaving the 15 k alone and just purchase the smaller unit for the bedroom. Basically your option 3 is what I do, I just installed an additional 30amp receptacle right above the original, I have the option of using the 30 amp or use a reducer and run off the 20 amp circuit on the power post.
No doubt one would be willing to pay $800 for a new unit to replace the 15k that may otherwise be just fine. However if you buy the Power Saver 48208c969 Mach 3 Power Saver, 13.5K BTU/h A/C, Black it drops to 10 amps which is very efficient compared to 15k. Main advantage here is that you would not have to worry about anything with the 30amp or 4KW generator as you can run your whole coach off generator. Beyond the money, you lose 30k BTU to downgrade to 24.5k BTU. But is option and would be my preference money notwithstanding.

As far what you are doing today, I like and it is close to what I would try but with one subtle change if I followed your post fully. Maybe I should ask the question before assuming? In your current config, can you shut down all of the other main amps sources and run both AC's off Generator; and optionally run the rear AC off the generator without running the front AC?

If so; that is what I seek because I don't think I would need both much; but if I needed, I could; or if front AC unit went out, I could still run the back unit off generator when not connected to shore.

I was thinking of have the 2nd unit's 110 plug in a place in where I could plug it into the incoming shore power for 20 amps service, or plug it into existing or newly created 110 receptacle that connects to main coach source of 30 amp power. Because of the unplugging required; no chance of backflow electrical energy.

Thoughts... because I have never encountered this issue with my tents
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