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Old 10-15-2019, 03:02 PM   #1
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THOR #2542
Low point drain is stuck

Our 2013 Thor A.C.E. 29.2 has 2 low point drains, one on the input side of the water pump, the other in the output side. The output side drain refuse to pop up regardless of the effort. Last winter, I chose not to deal with it as I reasoned that pumping antifreeze through the system would displace any residual water. I know that replacing the little pop up valve is the ultimate resolution but itís hard enough to reach just to get a hand on tucked away behind the WP. Iíve sprayed a little PB Blaster on the thing but worry about degrading the nylon or plastic. Thoughts? Suggestion?
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Old 10-15-2019, 04:47 PM   #2
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It sounds as if no matter what you choose to do: getting the water pump out of your way is just going to have to be part of the plan...
I'd tackle that first: and see how things go...
Good luck!
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Old 10-15-2019, 06:35 PM   #3
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..."I chose not to deal with it as I reasoned that pumping antifreeze through the system would displace any residual water"...

Correct assumption and I'd just do this again. Alternative is opening up too big a can of worms.
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Old 10-15-2019, 10:33 PM   #4
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Low point drains are to drain the piping system. Not the pump. One for hot water and one for cold water. Think LOW POINT DRAIN. There are two valves installed at the lowest point in the piping system.

That being said, some rigs do not have low point drains. My 2011 Keystone Sprinter with extream weather insulation package does not have low point drains. When using antifreeze they are not required.

Don't know what you have at your pump but they are not low point drains.
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Old 10-15-2019, 10:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie View Post
Low point drains are to drain the piping system. Not the pump. One for hot water and one for cold water. Think LOW POINT DRAIN. There are two valves installed at the lowest point in the piping system.



That being said, some rigs do not have low point drains. My 2011 Keystone Sprinter with extream weather insulation package does not have low point drains. When using antifreeze they are not required.



Don't know what you have at your pump but they are not low point drains.


Thanks! Iíll keep that in mind should we ever acquire a Keystone Sprinter.
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Old 10-15-2019, 10:48 PM   #6
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Norrin -- Do you have a picture? There should be a low point drain on the cold water line and another on the hot water line. This way opening them allows water to drain from the cold water and hot water lines. When you say there is a valve on the input side of the pump and another on the output side of the pump -- if those are drains they would only drain water from the cold water line. Where is the drain for your hot water line? And you say the output drain refuses to pop up -- generally the valves Thor uses turn to open and close. Are you sure the thing you are describing as the output drain isn't the water pump filter to catch debris coming out of the pump from the fresh water tank? Do you had a set of the Thor production drawings for the fresh water system for your model, year, and floorplan? You can get it from Thor and it shows exactly where everything is located. I have never heard of having to get the pump out of the way to get to the low point drains.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:19 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norrirn View Post
Our 2013 Thor A.C.E. 29.2 has 2 low point drains, one on the input side of the water pump, the other in the output side. The output side drain refuse to pop up regardless of the effort. Last winter, I chose not to deal with it as I reasoned that pumping antifreeze through the system would displace any residual water. I know that replacing the little pop up valve is the ultimate resolution but itís hard enough to reach just to get a hand on tucked away behind the WP. Iíve sprayed a little PB Blaster on the thing but worry about degrading the nylon or plastic. Thoughts? Suggestion?

Just to clarify, on my 2013 ACE 30.1, I also have the same two low point pull drains on either side of the water pump......and they are low point drains. If one of these drains is frozen shut then pumping pink antifreeze into your lines through the water pump will replace the water in the line and force it out through faucets etc during the normal Winterization process. A simple plumbing diagram is attached.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:55 AM   #8
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THOR #2542
Low point drain is stuck

Quote:
Originally Posted by bevedfelker View Post
Norrin -- Do you have a picture? There should be a low point drain on the cold water line and another on the hot water line. This way opening them allows water to drain from the cold water and hot water lines. When you say there is a valve on the input side of the pump and another on the output side of the pump -- if those are drains they would only drain water from the cold water line. Where is the drain for your hot water line? And you say the output drain refuses to pop up -- generally the valves Thor uses turn to open and close. Are you sure the thing you are describing as the output drain isn't the water pump filter to catch debris coming out of the pump from the fresh water tank? Do you had a set of the Thor production drawings for the fresh water system for your model, year, and floorplan? You can get it from Thor and it shows exactly where everything is located. I have never heard of having to get the pump out of the way to get to the low point drains.


These really are pop up valves, thatís how theyíve worked for the past 4 years. Iím really just interested in whether I should go to the trouble of replacing the one that after 4 years no longer pops up OR doing something to free it up. Pics attached for your interest.Click image for larger version

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1st photo is the errant valve, 2nd is the working valve. These are the low point drains on this Thor A.C.E.
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Old 10-16-2019, 04:31 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by javelin View Post
Just to clarify, on my 2013 ACE 30.1, I also have the same two low point pull drains on either side of the water pump......and they are low point drains. If one of these drains is frozen shut then pumping pink antifreeze into your lines through the water pump will replace the water in the line and force it out through faucets etc during the normal Winterization process. A simple plumbing diagram is attached.


Thank you for the confirmation! I just did not want to make an invalid assumption regarding that stuck valve. I have no idea why it became imperative but Iíll keep trying to free it up.
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:16 PM   #10
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THOR #2631
Those pull drains are typically very tight since they need to prevent water leaks onto the ground during normal seasonal use. Since they may not have been used for years and depending on the hardness of the water in your system over that time, the non working valve may have some residue of hard water calcification on top or inside......just guessing here. You could try wetting the valve body for a while with a small rag soaked with a de-calcification chemical (like those used in furnace humidifier trays). There are stronger de-calcification chemicals out there but start with something more environmentally safe to see if that's all it takes. Also make sure the drain portion of the valve that extends beyond the bottom of the coach is not plugged with road grime.
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Old 10-16-2019, 05:26 PM   #11
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For those who have never seen these low point drain pull valves before....pictures attached. Look at the top pin position where the ring sits....that is the valve pin that goes up and down and only moves 1/2 inch or so between open and closed positions.
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Old 10-16-2019, 10:42 PM   #12
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THOR #2542
Low point drain is stuck

Thanks to all who responded to my query! All is good, the pop up valve has popped up! I applied a liberal spraying of silicon yesterday and this afternoon, after a couple of tugs, it popped up. Iíve sprayed it again with silicon but when exercising the thing, it feels gritty. Interestingly, Iíve always been able to turn it in a circular fashion but that did not translate into vertical movement.

I think this little valve is like an appendix, not serving an obvious function since pumping anti freeze through the system displaces any water. Were I to just leave it closed and quit obsessing about it, life would go on. BUT, itís there, it once worked, and Iím apparently more than a bit anal. If itís there, it should be working. Happy ending! Thank you all!
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Old 10-21-2019, 09:23 PM   #13
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Are those valves spring loaded to close?
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Old 10-21-2019, 09:47 PM   #14
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Wow -- thanks for the additional info. Never saw those popup type drains. Don't know why they have twist open and close valves and then these as well.
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Old 10-21-2019, 10:10 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by mountainsam View Post
Are those valves spring loaded to close?

No the valves are not spring loaded. They are basically friction fit, but they require a solid pull to open and solid push to close. There is no slop in the action. I think they are likely cheap (although they do the job) plus they work in tight plumbing spaces where you can operate them with the finger pull ring (if not jammed that is) and close with a simple but solid push down. The pictures in included previoulsy is the low point drain valve from the low pressure side of my water pump. I replaced it with a flex hose to minimize pump vibration; and also added a flex hose on the high pressure side too, but retained the drain valve on that side. Winters here are colder than a witches arm pit, so pink antifreeze is the plumbing cocktail of choice.
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Old 10-21-2019, 10:12 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by mountainsam View Post
Are those valves spring loaded to close?
No, they are spring loaded, vertical gate valves with a ring pull. They lock into the closed or open position. If they haven't been used for several seasons, the sealing "O" rings stick to the central shaft making opening or closing difficult until the shaft is lubricated. Jayco uses a similar valve with a pull "T" handle.
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Old 10-21-2019, 11:47 PM   #17
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Hmmm......well the Jayco T handle vertical pull valves may have springs in the valve body, but think cheaper.....these don't. If you remove the finger ring off the valve stem top you can push the valve stem out the bottom and change the two seals......no springs in the valve body or on the stem. At least not on mine....picture attached.
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Old 10-22-2019, 05:40 AM   #18
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Nope, not spring loaded. As stated above they stay open or closed only by friction. In my case, these are are the ONLY low point drains. There are no twist ope/close valves.
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Old 10-22-2019, 01:55 PM   #19
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I'm glad that my low point drains are in a much easier spot to get to...

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1571748883
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Old 10-23-2019, 07:22 PM   #20
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I'm glad that my low point drains are in a much easier spot to get to...

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1571748883
For those looking at winterizing, the Tuscany and others with AquaHot will have a set of drains at the AquaHot and another at the wet bay but don't forget the ice maker and washer and dish washer if used
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