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Old 03-09-2019, 11:20 PM   #1
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Need Help. No Heat

Just got my Thor Outlaw back from the service dept after 3 flippen months and now the heat won't work and it's freezing. Any help would be great
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Old 03-09-2019, 11:26 PM   #2
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Sometimes if not used for a while or has been disconnected you can get air in the lines that needs to be flushed out. It may take a number of lighting sequences to get fire. Can you hear the igniter? Is the fan running?
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Old 03-09-2019, 11:35 PM   #3
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Sometimes if not used for a while or has been disconnected you can get air in the lines that needs to be flushed out. It may take a number of lighting sequences to get fire. Can you hear the igniter? Is the fan running?
The overhead fans works but only cold air. The floor vents go one speratcally but only stay on a few seconds. What is the ingnighting sequence?
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Old 03-09-2019, 11:54 PM   #4
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Need Help. No Heat

Donít have an Outlaw but assume itís similar to other RVs. The overhead fan is unrelated. If you can hear the fan in the furnace (near the floor somewhere) then it suggests that the thermostat, wiring and circuit board are working (not for sure but likely). If you listen carefully you should be able to hear a sparking sound as the fire is lighted. If there is no propane in the line it will attempt to light several times and give up (itís a safety thing). You need to turn it off at the thermostat and then back on whereupon it will try again. It might take several of these cycles to purge the lines if that is the problem. Does your stove light? That will tell you that the propane system is working - a useful bit of knowledge. The floor vents working sporadically might either be the system shutting down after failure to light or it might mean the control board is malfunctioning or there is an intermittent wiring problem. Iíve never had the problem but Iíve heard that the control board can malfunction if it has gotten wet but may work again after it dries out. I have no experience with that but I think the board lives outside and accessible by removing the furnace cover/vent. Hopefully someone more experienced than me can jump in. Good luck!
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Old 03-10-2019, 12:06 AM   #5
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Thank you so much. I'll keep trying and see if it will work
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Old 03-10-2019, 12:18 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
...Iíve never had the problem but Iíve heard that the control board can malfunction if it has gotten wet but may work again after it dries out...
Right about getting wet however, it will eventually fail. Also right about the stovetop. That'll also help purge the lines. Let it run a little while. It won't completely clear the furnace line but it definitely helps.

The next 'warm' chance you get, do two things:
1) locate the furnace board and get it off the floor of the mounting plate. Water collects there and eventually corrodes and/or shorts out the board.
2) run a bead of silicone along the top and sides of the trim piece that goes around the furnace outside cover. This is where the water gets in.

For more info, see this link and search for others like it and yes, good luck.

Heater Gremlin?
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Old 03-10-2019, 01:11 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by TheBreeze View Post
Right about getting wet however, it will eventually fail. Also right about the stovetop. That'll also help purge the lines. Let it run a little while. It won't completely clear the furnace line but it definitely helps.

The next 'warm' chance you get, do two things:
1) locate the furnace board and get it off the floor of the mounting plate. Water collects there and eventually corrodes and/or shorts out the board.
2) run a bead of silicone along the top and sides of the trim piece that goes around the furnace outside cover. This is where the water gets in.

For more info, see this link and search for others like it and yes, good luck.

Heater Gremlin?
I sure "feel your pain" - as keepin warm has been my #1 issue over the past 2 months, but my heater never quit on me, it just devoured whole tanks of propane in a nite or 2 (w/out makin much of a dent in 20įF temps), until I got some electric & battery heaters & my newest best friends, the lantern style minnie propane mr heater, the regular size mr heater & a portable propane tank. Next I'll probably be whining about how much gas the genie uses to run the a.c. - I wonder if I can run a small portable like in my house, I had a lil tower like honeywell that got a hose shoved out the window? Anyway, I truly hope you get your heat squared away!
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Old 03-10-2019, 01:53 AM   #8
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Exclamation

You might also want to check the sail switch on the furnace. If it gets dirty, it won't close the circuit, and the furnace won't light until it's cleaned. See the thread below for easy directions how to check it. Good luck.

Heater wonít light up indicating Air Flow / Limit Fault - How to fix?
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Old 03-10-2019, 06:00 AM   #9
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Tanks turned on?
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Old 03-10-2019, 06:18 AM   #10
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I really appreciate everyone's responses. This forum is a great resource.
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Old 03-10-2019, 11:45 AM   #11
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If you are hearing an over head fan, could your thermostat be on AC
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Old 03-10-2019, 12:43 PM   #12
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It is possible, while in the repair shop, they shut off the propane while they had it inside. As mentioned, light your stove top. If it won't light or goes out then your propane valve is closed or out of propane.

The other things that have been mentioned are possible but it's always best to check the simplest things first.

Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 03-10-2019, 04:51 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Dadsbum View Post
Just got my Thor Outlaw back from the service dept after 3 flippen months and now the heat won't work and it's freezing. Any help would be great
i had problems with my Attwood furnace
after much thought and trying all the normal tricks listed...I finally took a screwdriver and wrench to it.
- pulled it apart (disconnect propane line, pull-off a few electrical connectors, and just 4 or 5 screws...if i recall)
- blew everything out with compressed air
- re-adjusted the spark unit and moved it closer to the flame assembly
- then reconnected everything
Voila! it then worked perfectly

it's very simply built, not much to it other than spark, burner, and the computer board

it's more stressful thinking about it than the actual dis-assembly/re-assembly process
and it took no more than 30 minutes

suggestion...take a couple of photos to refer to for the electrical connections, just to make sure that they go back to their proper locations
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Old 03-10-2019, 05:22 PM   #14
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Do the easiest thing first. There might be air in your lines and the furnace ignitor safety circuit times out.

Try this:
1 - Be sure there is propane in the tank and the main valve is open.
2 - Open the stove top cover and light one of the burners. Then light a couple more burners and let run for about a minute.
2 - Turn off stove burners and close up stove.
3 - Now put the thermostat to heat and set the temp for about 68 or 70 degrees. The furnace fan should start immediately. In about 5 seconds the sound of the furnace fan running should change and you'll hear a deeper sound (that's the burner). You should now be getting heat.
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Old 03-11-2019, 04:50 PM   #15
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Are you warm yet? I hope.
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Old 03-11-2019, 09:34 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Soldier Girl View Post
I sure "feel your pain" - as keepin warm has been my #1 issue over the past 2 months, but my heater never quit on me, it just devoured whole tanks of propane in a nite or 2 (w/out makin much of a dent in 20įF temps), until I got some electric & battery heaters & my newest best friends, the lantern style minnie propane mr heater, the regular size mr heater & a portable propane tank. Next I'll probably be whining about how much gas the genie uses to run the a.c. - I wonder if I can run a small portable like in my house, I had a lil tower like honeywell that got a hose shoved out the window? Anyway, I truly hope you get your heat squared away!
I did a couple of things there to help with that .
1) Reflectix in the windows (this does work).
2) Foam pipe insulation along the bottom of the slide outs.

For #1, all your windows corners will likely be the same radii for the curved portions. The 90d corner are obvious. Measure all your windows so you buy enough Reflectix. I got this at Lowe's

1) Make a cardboard template for the windows' radii and test the template on all windows to ensure it's a tight fit - no gaps
3) Measure the window and add 1/4" to the dimension - this is so the reflectix stays in place w/o Velcro
3) Use the cardboard template to trace the curve onto the reflectix - a Sharpie works best here. I also used 'dots' instead of hard lines for long runs.
4) Cut to measurements
5) Place the reflectix against window and tuck the ends into the 'rails' that run along the window - these look like small pieces of raised aluminum that are parallel to and 1/4" away from the window.
6) I wrote which window the reflectix belong to on a piece of masking tape and placed that on the reflectix - but I can get anal about some things


#2 is a little more complicated below the surface, but if you buy a piece and try this w/o the adhesive first, you may see how it works. You can usually get the insulation at Lowe's cheaper than Home Depot. I used Gorilla brand construction adhesive to keep the insulation in tack and got that at Walmart. Pick up some rubbing alcohol and a rag. You'll need it to get the adhesive off of places it doesn't belong or is not wanted. Do this on a cold windy day and there's no mistake how well it works.

Measure all the gaps between the floor and the slide bottom and create a drawing. I had to use 1/2" in some areas and 1 1/2" in others. Do the math and go to the local Lowe's.

1) Open pipe insulation at the split. I had to use my finger to complete the opening.
2) Remeasure the run (I made a drawing for this and still measured again - measure twice, cut once). If you're working with a corner, use a baloney slice (45d angle) so the opening where the pipe would go marries to the other piece. If you don't, it could create an air leak, depending on its relation to the mated piece.
3) Place construction adhesive one side of the split (I did this in small areas 6" apart for long runs rather than the full length)
4) Marry the adhesive side of the insulation to the underside of the slide out; leaving one side of the slit exposed. This is so any excess is allowed to come up and overlap the inside face of the slide out floor. It also lets the insulation cover the gap without too much pressure to hinder 'sliding' with the slide out. If too tight, it will roll under itself when you put the slide in.
5) Let it all set up and cure

This worked extremely well for me and hope it does for you and others. The foam moves along with the slide out. Give yourself sufficient time. The adhesive needs no less than 24hrs for a full cure.
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Old 03-14-2019, 01:40 AM   #17
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: A.C.E. 30.2
State: Alaska
Posts: 251
THOR #13770
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBreeze View Post
I did a couple of things there to help with that .
1) Reflectix in the windows (this does work).
2) Foam pipe insulation along the bottom of the slide outs.

For #1, all your windows corners will likely be the same radii for the curved portions. The 90d corner are obvious. Measure all your windows so you buy enough Reflectix. I got this at Lowe's

1) Make a cardboard template for the windows' radii and test the template on all windows to ensure it's a tight fit - no gaps
3) Measure the window and add 1/4" to the dimension - this is so the reflectix stays in place w/o Velcro
3) Use the cardboard template to trace the curve onto the reflectix - a Sharpie works best here. I also used 'dots' instead of hard lines for long runs.
4) Cut to measurements
5) Place the reflectix against window and tuck the ends into the 'rails' that run along the window - these look like small pieces of raised aluminum that are parallel to and 1/4" away from the window.
6) I wrote which window the reflectix belong to on a piece of masking tape and placed that on the reflectix - but I can get anal about some things


#2 is a little more complicated below the surface, but if you buy a piece and try this w/o the adhesive first, you may see how it works. You can usually get the insulation at Lowe's cheaper than Home Depot. I used Gorilla brand construction adhesive to keep the insulation in tack and got that at Walmart. Pick up some rubbing alcohol and a rag. You'll need it to get the adhesive off of places it doesn't belong or is not wanted. Do this on a cold windy day and there's no mistake how well it works.

Measure all the gaps between the floor and the slide bottom and create a drawing. I had to use 1/2" in some areas and 1 1/2" in others. Do the math and go to the local Lowe's.

1) Open pipe insulation at the split. I had to use my finger to complete the opening.
2) Remeasure the run (I made a drawing for this and still measured again - measure twice, cut once). If you're working with a corner, use a baloney slice (45d angle) so the opening where the pipe would go marries to the other piece. If you don't, it could create an air leak, depending on its relation to the mated piece.
3) Place construction adhesive one side of the split (I did this in small areas 6" apart for long runs rather than the full length)
4) Marry the adhesive side of the insulation to the underside of the slide out; leaving one side of the slit exposed. This is so any excess is allowed to come up and overlap the inside face of the slide out floor. It also lets the insulation cover the gap without too much pressure to hinder 'sliding' with the slide out. If too tight, it will roll under itself when you put the slide in.
5) Let it all set up and cure

This worked extremely well for me and hope it does for you and others. The foam moves along with the slide out. Give yourself sufficient time. The adhesive needs no less than 24hrs for a full cure.
Thanks, I'm also using the reflectix now, & I bought heat tape for my hoses & pipe insulation. I think the refectix will be of use in keeping the inside cooler during the summertime as well.
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Old 03-23-2019, 11:19 PM   #18
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We had the same trouble on our Thor Highland Ridge Open Range 3X. All our problem turned out to be after a tech expense, was that the company had failed to connect the ducting to the furnace and it tripped the high temperature switch off. We merely had to flip it back on (it was a switch on the side of the furnace). Cost us $300 to find that out.
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