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Old 04-14-2016, 07:44 PM   #1
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outside tv

I have a axis an would like to know do you need a separate dvd to play outside tv.
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:45 PM   #2
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Yes: You'll find the inputs to the TV in the storage compartment below the TV.

If you're handy you could probably snake a 2nd HDMI cable from behind the TV (pull out some drawers in the kitchen) up to the cabinet above the sink. You could even plug it in to HDMI input 2 on the TV.
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:30 PM   #3
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41willys,


It takes some effort but you can put a DVD in the cabinet over the sink:
1. Get a HDMI splitter and run one HDMI to the inside TV over the door, use HDMI input 2.
2. Run the second one behind the Microwave (must remove microwave and the two drawers under the range) thu the big hole you will find when you remove the Microwave and work it towards the floor (coat hanger and duct tape).
3. Run the cable between the wall and refridge, bring it out thru a hole that you will have to drill out very carefully at about the level between of the top drawer and bottom drawer on the same wall that you snaked the cable into up at the level of the Microwave.
4. Run the cable out the big hole you will find in the outside wall that leads into where your outside TV is located.
5. Hook it up to the HDMI input 2 on the outside TV.


Now you can have the movie showing inside, outside or at the same time on both. It is a bit of work.


Doc
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:00 PM   #4
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I guess I am lazy...I just move the DVD player to whichever TV I want to view DVD on ... have not used the outside TV/DVD yet...but,certainly is easy enough to plug and play from that outside storage under the TV !!
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:25 PM   #5
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Kay,

Yeah, but with a small fanless computer, an external DVD harddrive (both installed over the sink) and a wireless keyboard you can make both TV's into computer monitors. With a little software you can use the DVD harddrive to play your movies.

My next modification is for a USB external WiFi antenna into the computer then thru a router to set up a secure and improved WiFi hotspot around the RV.

Doc
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocMike View Post
Kay,

Yeah, but with a small fanless computer, an external DVD harddrive (both installed over the sink) and a wireless keyboard you can make both TV's into computer monitors. With a little software you can use the DVD harddrive to play your movies.

My next modification is for a USB external WiFi antenna into the computer then thru a router to set up a secure and improved WiFi hotspot around the RV.

Doc
DOC !! what an awesome idea !! Didn't think of that...that could have so many uses..not only movies, etc..when I am editing photos, etc.

The WiFi antenna & router setup should work well ! I am thinking..with the router...and WiFi...a person could run movies from a laptop and play them on TV's..correct? Presuming our coach TV's are 'smart' enough !!

THANK YOU !!
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:38 PM   #7
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Kay,

Last year I posted the exact parts I bought to do the original set up somewhere on this forum. I will post it below, it has an extra Blue-ray for the back bedroom...never could figure how route an HDMI back there.
Items Ordered and Price
1. Samsung BDF5100Bluray
Disc Player (2013 Model)……………....................................... .........................................$ 66.28
2. Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard k400 with Builtin
MultiTouch Touchpad, White…………………………………………………………………....$ 30.99
3. Quantum Byte Fanless Windows® Mini Desktop PC with Windows 8.1, Intel
BaytrailT (Quadcore) Z3735F up to 1.83GHz, 2GB RAM+32GB storage……………..$169.99
4. JTech Digital JTDMINI1x2SP 2 Port 1X2 Powered Hdmi Super Mini
Splitter for Full Hd 1080P with 3D Capability……………………..…………………………$ 20.99
5. 2 sets Aurum High Speed HDMI Cable (10 Ft) 2 Pack with Ethernet Supports 3D & Audio Return Channel [Latest Version] 10 Feet ($8.69ea set)…………………………….…..$ 17.38
6. SAMSUNG TSST SE506CB/RSWD 6X USB 2.0 Slim Bluray
Writer External Drive (White), MDisc support……………………………………………….$ 79.95

Item(s) Subtotal : $385.58
Shipping & Handling : $ 29.93
Total
before tax : $415.51
Estimated tax to be collected: $ 2.36
Grand Total : $417.87

That’s it for now.
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:47 PM   #8
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DOC .. regarding the bedroom tv..in our Axis, .in the cabinet directly above the tv..(left of TV) .. there is an hdmi and electrical outlet. The hdmi leaves the tv, goes through the wall and up and out in the cabinet.

Just did a search ..WiDi (if computer has Windows 7 or 8) is an option ...


THANKYOU FOR THE INFORMATION REGARDING YOUR SETUP ...
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:00 PM   #9
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Kay,

True, but it just drops down to the TV in the bedroom. What I wanted to do was to run a third split off the computer in the kitchen and run it back so that TV could be used as a monitor.

DW was against drilling holes into "Mrs. Enterprise" (her name for our RUV). Oh yeah, we had to name the toad too, it's name is "Galileo". And lastly, the spare tire cover says "To Boldly Go..." (being done as I type).

Doc
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:27 PM   #10
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If I was going to put a Camper PC in I would probably go with one of the Intel NUC units:
Mini PC: Intel® NUC

You can get them from Newegg: This one is a "small" one:
Intel NUC Kit DCCP847DYE Intel QS77 2 x 204Pin Celeron 847 1.1GHz - Newegg.com

(Of course I'd probably end up with a higher end one LOL.)

If you really want a small PC you could go with a Compute Stick:
Intel Compute Stick
ASUS compute stick
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:29 PM   #11
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Has anyone tried ChromeCast ?
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vkb
Has anyone tried ChromeCast ?
Yes I had a Chromecast in our camper for about 1.5 years. I was never able to get it to sync up to a campground's WiFi. I was able to get it to work with my phone as a hotspot (and using my tablet to log into it). Of course that would eat up my data plan though.

It would work great with Doc's system, but with Doc's system there is no need for a Chromecast.

I also tried an Apple TV with similar results to the Chromecast.

Also use a PS4 but then we only had that on WiFi once and that was again using a hotspot.
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocMike View Post
Kay,

True, but it just drops down to the TV in the bedroom. What I wanted to do was to run a third split off the computer in the kitchen and run it back so that TV could be used as a monitor.

DW was against drilling holes into "Mrs. Enterprise" (her name for our RUV). Oh yeah, we had to name the toad too, it's name is "Galileo". And lastly, the spare tire cover says "To Boldly Go..." (being done as I type).

Doc
OK .. understood ! and I like the names !! Well done!!
I am going to investigate ChromeCast for my application..don't know enough about it yet.
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:21 PM   #14
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Kay,

I have ChromeCast on the bedroom TV, you have to use a Beta program to stream a movie and it really struggles. Now remember, my ChromeCast is 6 months old and in the world of electronics...it's almost a dinosaur.

My final - down the road - set up will be a voice activated maybe using a program like Cortana or Siri via WiFi to work with the computer. I saw something on the internet about a program called "Brian" but it seems to be the redheaded stepchild of voice recognition programs.

Doc
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2016 Vegas 24.1 E350 5 speed "Ms. Enterprise", Bug-Guard Screen, Recliners, Infotainment Center, HUD, ARC Shower Rod, Safe-T-Plus, Curt SpareTire Mount,Tornado Black Tank Rinser, ext. WiFi Antenna, Roadmaster Tow Sys& Invisibrake.

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Old 04-14-2016, 11:52 PM   #15
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Jamie,

On the computer you need three (or four) USB ports to handle the antennea, the DVD Harddrive, the "doggle" for the keyboard and a spare just incase (if you have 4). Two HDMI ports would really be nice and you have to watch power needs and heat generated. Fortunately for me, there is a leak somewhere in the AC system and cold air is pushed into the cabinet thru the holes the TV antennea runs thru.

See attachment to see size of computer (on left of picture) and Harddrive (on right on top of a spacer made of 1"X4"X6" to raise the door above the lip on the cabinet). In the background is the HDMI splitter. The hole to the left of the computer is for an external USB connection so as to allow easy access for power to the WiFi ROuter, or to attach a thumb drive or the planned external USB WiFi antenna.

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1460674282

Doc
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2016 Vegas 24.1 E350 5 speed "Ms. Enterprise", Bug-Guard Screen, Recliners, Infotainment Center, HUD, ARC Shower Rod, Safe-T-Plus, Curt SpareTire Mount,Tornado Black Tank Rinser, ext. WiFi Antenna, Roadmaster Tow Sys& Invisibrake.

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Old 04-15-2016, 12:24 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocMike
On the computer you need three (or four) USB ports to handle the antennea, the DVD Harddrive, the "doggle" for the keyboard and a spare just incase (if you have 4). Two HDMI ports would really be nice and you have to watch power needs and heat generated. Fortunately for me, there is a leak somewhere in the AC system and cold air is pushed into the cabinet thru the holes the TV antennea runs thru.
That depends on how you use it. Using a NUC you could install a 1TB hard drive internal and store all movies digitally (DVD? whats that?). The NUC's also have built in WiFi and Bluetooth (get a Bluetooth keyboard and mouse, one more USB port not needed). Now you only need one USB for the external WiFi antenna...

Its like LEGO: you just have to plug all the pieces together and there are an infinite number of ways to accomplish any given task!
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Old 04-15-2016, 12:36 AM   #17
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Jamie,

That's the problem with technology...it gets obsolete so quickly now-a-days!

Now, if this could all be done with just 12v input (computer, hard drive, HDMI splitter all have 120v input but transformers to dumb it down). Then add a 12V smart TV and the whole thing could be run off the batteries with no need for the genny nor shore power nor an inverter.

Doc
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2016 Vegas 24.1 E350 5 speed "Ms. Enterprise", Bug-Guard Screen, Recliners, Infotainment Center, HUD, ARC Shower Rod, Safe-T-Plus, Curt SpareTire Mount,Tornado Black Tank Rinser, ext. WiFi Antenna, Roadmaster Tow Sys& Invisibrake.

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Old 04-15-2016, 12:46 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DocMike
Now, if this could all be done with just 12v input (computer, hard drive, HDMI splitter all have 120v input but transformers to dumb it down). Then add a 12V smart TV and the whole thing could be run off the batteries with no need for the genny nor shore power nor an inverter.
I bet you could either by simply using an inverter (which does seem wasteful--going from 12V to 120V and back to "something less than 12V" inside each device) or by finding parts that were 12V compatible (which would probably cost more).
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Old 04-15-2016, 03:50 AM   #19
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DOC...thankyou for the feedback.
You and Jamie are amazing !!
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Old 04-15-2016, 03:04 PM   #20
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Thanks JamieGeek great info from everyone
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