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Old 07-15-2016, 02:10 AM   #21
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Ours is AIRXCEL by Coleman ..no weight listed in paperwork.
I understand what you are saying, ONeil,...we , who have the 15k a/c are fortunate that our Axis/Vegas came with several optional items, including the a/c upgrade.

Hope your lengthy trip west is rewarding !
Thanks.. I took the less expensive unit with the 13.5K A/C because it had all the things I wanted -- 6 Spd transmission, 450 chassis, small windshield, blond interior and pocket doors in the bath. In addition it was Camping Worlds showcase RV for the Tampa show and they had done a wonderful job prepping it. We literally found nothing wrong during the walkthru. Camping World switched the bedroom TV from my Vegas to the Axis for free as well as trading my two new #29 batteries for the one junk Harris battery. The only things I did not get were the outside TV (which I had turned on once in two years in my Vegas) and the bigger A/C. I was willing to live with the A/C. So far I have not seen much difference, if any. I will post some of the inexpensive, easy things that i have done to make my RV cooler. With the 100 degree temperatures forecast for the mid West over the next several, weeks, I might get tested.
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Old 07-15-2016, 01:08 PM   #22
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Man, I'm takin notes here!
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:36 PM   #23
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I have also found this thread interesting. Right now I think our a/c unit just isn't producing cold enough air period. I think there may be a refrigerant leak. I'm wondering if there's a way to quickly check the unit to see if there is a leak. If one were to turn their a/c unit down to say 70 degrees, could one take a thermometer and place it in one of the overhead vents and read the temperature? What would or should the air temperature be?

The 27' travel trailer we sold to purchase this unit had a very good a/c unit on it. It had no problem cooling the trailer down. On a trip to Yellowstone many years ago, we stopped at a state park in Minnesota for the night. It was absolutely miserable. Temps in the low 90's with humidity reading about the same. I turned the a/c and then we took the kids swimming. When we came back the entire outside of the trailer was covered in water like it had been raining. The whole trailer was cold enough for the water in the outside air to condense on the trailer. Now that was an a/c unit.

I also read the thread about adding different types of shades and vent covers. I'm also going to look into some of those as well. I probably need to see if I have a 13,500 btu unit or a 15,000 btu too.

Thanks for all the info.
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:43 PM   #24
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If you don't think it is working very well, it probably isn't right. Unfortunately, with these RV A/C units there is no way to add any freon to the unit. So, The only option is to replace the whole top part. A good A/C guy shouldn't charge you much to check it out.
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Old 07-16-2016, 04:19 AM   #25
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I have also found this thread interesting. Right now I think our a/c unit just isn't producing cold enough air period. I think there may be a refrigerant leak. I'm wondering if there's a way to quickly check the unit to see if there is a leak. If one were to turn their a/c unit down to say 70 degrees, could one take a thermometer and place it in one of the overhead vents and read the temperature? What would or should the air temperature be?

The 27' travel trailer we sold to purchase this unit had a very good a/c unit on it. It had no problem cooling the trailer down. On a trip to Yellowstone many years ago, we stopped at a state park in Minnesota for the night. It was absolutely miserable. Temps in the low 90's with humidity reading about the same. I turned the a/c and then we took the kids swimming. When we came back the entire outside of the trailer was covered in water like it had been raining. The whole trailer was cold enough for the water in the outside air to condense on the trailer. Now that was an a/c unit.

I also read the thread about adding different types of shades and vent covers. I'm also going to look into some of those as well. I probably need to see if I have a 13,500 btu unit or a 15,000 btu too.

Thanks for all the info.
We hope you resolve your problem.
If you purchased your motorhome, new, the window sticker will show which a/c unit you have. If you do not have the sticker, you might check your pouch of papers which comes with the rv. There should be paperwork on your a/c unit in the bag.
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Old 07-16-2016, 03:18 PM   #26
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I would also suggest some type of front window screens (on the outside) like Magnashield, they do work and keep the front of the RV 10 degrees cooler.

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Old 07-16-2016, 04:39 PM   #27
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We agree with Cook ...
In the off season we are purchasing Textilene and making our own windshield cover and side window covers.
In the interum, we purchased the Adco 2600 .. made of Tyvek...
...it looks like a big diaper on the front of the Axis...but, it did relieve the heat, considerably,coming in from the front while camped in Florida, etc. on our recent trip. (wish we had it when we traveled west !)
With Amazon Prime, it was about $70 including tax...
Camping World, also, sells it and there is a video regarding install on their site.
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Old 07-29-2016, 02:20 AM   #28
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I installed a second unit 13,500 in our bedroom on our 30.1. $588 at Camping World with coupon. Ran a separate power wire to the inside of the compartment close to the power cord. It fit right in place of the Fantastic Fan. No big difference in size of the 13,500 or 15,000.
We spent last weekend at Water Country Williamsburg with the grandkids 98 degrees. I had to run both units to keep it cool. I did get it down to 70 at one time. Kind of hard to keep it cool with 3 kids in and out. I was glad to have the additional unit. The nice thing is the bedroom AC blows straight down the middle of the Rv while the 15,000 blows out the vents.
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Old 07-04-2017, 05:11 PM   #29
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I installed a second unit 13,500 in our bedroom on our 30.1. $588 at Camping World with coupon. Ran a separate power wire to the inside of the compartment close to the power cord. It fit right in place of the Fantastic Fan. No big difference in size of the 13,500 or 15,000.
We spent last weekend at Water Country Williamsburg with the grandkids 98 degrees. I had to run both units to keep it cool. I did get it down to 70 at one time. Kind of hard to keep it cool with 3 kids in and out. I was glad to have the additional unit. The nice thing is the bedroom AC blows straight down the middle of the Rv while the 15,000 blows out the vents.
Could you please expand on your process about how you ran power to the added unit? I am wanting to put an addition 13,500 on our A.C.E. 29.1 and am a little perplexed on how to power the second unit. I was hoping to find a pre-routed 12/2 wire in the area of the power vent, but am not holding my breath on that. Thanks so much for your help.
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Old 07-04-2017, 05:45 PM   #30
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We are taking delivery of a 2018 ACE 29.3 in ten days...we ordered it with the optional, second factory a/c unit...list for option was $1750 as I recall...this unit also comes w a 5500 generator and 50 amp.... as, I believe, a smaller generator would not run two units..

Our unit was a special order as our Elkhart dealer doesn't bring spec units in w the two a/c setup....one Texas dealer does. We live in FL thus really need temp help at times

I'm not an electrician...but I guessnyou could retrofit to two a/c's...the issue is the generator and on shore power how do you get 50 amp safely in...

Hope above helps
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Old 07-04-2017, 06:59 PM   #31
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Could you please expand on your process about how you ran power to the added unit? I am wanting to put an addition 13,500 on our A.C.E. 29.1 and am a little perplexed on how to power the second unit. I was hoping to find a pre-routed 12/2 wire in the area of the power vent, but am not holding my breath on that. Thanks so much for your help.
If you search this forum you will find several threads that discuss this. You can easily add another A/C unit (we did) but to avoid the huge added expense of upgrading the generator and panel to 50 A you will have it run off of it's own cord. You should be able to bring a long cord (20-25 feet, check the electric charts for max length, then go shorter)from the unit to the bottom of the coach. We used a channel already in the coach for the original A/C ducts and then dropped it down to the basement.
You cannot run this A/C off the generator or your electric panel, it is a separate electric connection. If you boondock off your generator this won't help you, but it will be the fastest and quickest way to go if you regularly overnight with electric hook-ups. I purchased a 50A to 30A & 20A splitter on Amazon and use it when there is no regular 30A and 20A on the electric post. This mod probably saved my marriage!!!!!
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Old 07-04-2017, 08:57 PM   #32
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Just changing to a 15,000 btu will make a huge difference. Swapping out the units is relatively easy, hardest part is lifting the unit to the roof and I don't suggest you attempt this by yourself. Everything is pretty much plug and play, no new wiring needed. If you also add the rotating vent to the inside cover you should have plenty of cool air. About $700 for a new unit, sell your old unit, do the work yourself, should easily have less than $500 in the swap.
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Old 07-04-2017, 09:41 PM   #33
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Changing from a 13.5 to 15k btu unit will add a little more than 10% additional cooling. Adding a second 13.5 unit will give you 27k total btu cooling. If you are going to go to all that work and expense, why not go with the 27k cooling capacity rather than the 15?
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Old 07-04-2017, 09:52 PM   #34
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Changing from a 13.5 to 15k btu unit will add a little more than 10% additional cooling. Adding a second 13.5 unit will give you 27k total btu cooling. If you are going to go to all that work and expense, why not go with the 27k cooling capacity rather than the 15?
I absolutely agree with you. I was pointing out that other than changing out the AC unit no additional wiring or fittings would be needed, it could be run with the generator, and would be the easiest and least expensive option.
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Old 07-20-2017, 03:09 AM   #35
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I have a 2016 Thor ace 30.2. My ac is a 15K and it works fine however the back is a little warm due to the lack of duck size. We put a small fan on the counter at night to push air to the rear because the front is freezing.
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Old 07-20-2017, 03:51 AM   #36
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If you search this forum you will find several threads that discuss this. You can easily add another A/C unit (we did) but to avoid the huge added expense of upgrading the generator and panel to 50 A you will have it run off of it's own cord. You should be able to bring a long cord (20-25 feet, check the electric charts for max length, then go shorter)from the unit to the bottom of the coach. We used a channel already in the coach for the original A/C ducts and then dropped it down to the basement.
You cannot run this A/C off the generator or your electric panel, it is a separate electric connection. If you boondock off your generator this won't help you, but it will be the fastest and quickest way to go if you regularly overnight with electric hook-ups. I purchased a 50A to 30A & 20A splitter on Amazon and use it when there is no regular 30A and 20A on the electric post. This mod probably saved my marriage!!!!!
Saved mine too!
I also installed a 20 amp breaker in the rv panel(I believe there was room for 2) and ran a wire to the compartment with the AC plug so I can plug it into the rv and run either one when on generator. Takes a regular square d breaker from Lowes.
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Old 07-20-2017, 12:36 PM   #37
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Saved mine too!
I also installed a 20 amp breaker in the rv panel(I believe there was room for 2) and ran a wire to the compartment with the AC plug so I can plug it into the rv and run either one when on generator. Takes a regular square d breaker from Lowes.
Did you also run a separate line to outside the coach so that you can run both simultaneously on shore power?
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Old 07-20-2017, 01:53 PM   #38
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Did you also run a separate line to outside the coach so that you can run both simultaneously on shore power?
Yes. The orange wire comes directly from the AC unit. The grey wire comes from the 20 amp breaker I installed in the rv panel. I can plug into the grey wire and run the unit from the generator or when plugged into the pedestal with the 30 amp rv plug. I can also plug the orange wire into the 20 amp pedestal receptacle and run both units at the same time. I have run both units on the generator at the same time but it runs the amps right up to 30 with everything else off.
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Old 07-20-2017, 02:39 PM   #39
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curious, how much trouble did you have fishing the line voltage cable across or through the ceiling, up at the AC?

Anyway, too bad they don't make an RV unit smaller, say in the 5,000 btu to 8,000 btu range. I'll bet just a little one like that as the secondary unit would be more than enough to take care of the issue and would keep the power loading way down....simplifying a lot of this.

It's been too many years since I used to work on little window units so I had to look up an example.... found an 8,000 btu window unit rated at 6.2A....just for a point of reference.
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Old 07-20-2017, 05:26 PM   #40
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curious, how much trouble did you have fishing the line voltage cable across or through the ceiling, up at the AC?

Anyway, too bad they don't make an RV unit smaller, say in the 5,000 btu to 8,000 btu range. I'll bet just a little one like that as the secondary unit would be more than enough to take care of the issue and would keep the power loading way down....simplifying a lot of this.

It's been too many years since I used to work on little window units so I had to look up an example.... found an 8,000 btu window unit rated at 6.2A....just for a point of reference.
The wire was pretty stiff so I ran it across to the exterior wall which on mine was inside the bedroom tv cabinet. I put a junction box there and ran the rest of the way down the inside corner of the hanging closet which is right above my black tank water pump valve compartment.
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