15 Amp to 50 Amp RV Power Cord Plug Adapter

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by WearyTraveler

Dumb question... while these are great to allow you to plug in with a normal extension cord, how do you provide surge protection? My surge protector has the blades 50a male and female.

To use the OP's adapter with surge protection you would need a simple 15 amp surge protector.

[dkoldman]

Gonna see if I follow where this is going.

There is 50 amp service for OP, but he has a donebone to allow connection to 15 amp supply. So the twist is how to handle surge protection?

If the 15 amp source gets hit with more than 15 amps, won't it trip the breaker? Also, say it doesn't and 30 amps come through due to lightning or something, it may fry the dogbone; but can't the 50 amps cable handle a 30 amp surge? If it is really bad surge then it would trip the main breaker (200 amps in my case).

If we really want extra protection don't they sell those fancy surge protector that you can buy for any configuration you need? i.e. https://www.campingworld.com/portabl...RoCDqQQAvD_BwE

In my case my 50 amp cable line is hard wired into a Surge Guard Transfer switch. I like because it is impossible for my 50 amp cable to just walk away as they compartment is locked. However I bough 2 dogbones from Camco. a 50 amp female to 30 amp male and a 50 amp female to a 20 amp male. When at home I have a 60 amp breaker in main panel that flows to my RV Sub panel that has 50 amp / 30 amp / & 20 amp services so that is at least two levels of breakers that should trip with a surge.

I do like the idea of simple 15 amp surge protector plugged into pedestal if using the 15 amp service. I guess a surge guard for the 30amp and 50amp that would have to plug into the pedestal would be even greater protection for my built in surge guard in the coach? i.e. this is all I would need to buy for one moe additional level of surge protection, for 50 amp it would plug right into pedestal, but for 30 and 20 amp I would use the dogbones that would fit in between the pedestal and the this device.

https://www.campingworld.com/portabl...rge-protection

Am I following this right?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by CampTap

As a commercial electrician I would advise against leaving wires coiled up. This creates a "choke" on your power causing heat at the coils. Even with insulated cables the EMF will build in the coil creating resistance and heat. A coil of wire is basically a transformer without a core. If you were to take a steel bar and put in in tbe middle of that coil you will read voltage off the bar in accordance with your turns ratio (how many coils of wire around the 1 bar ie 4-5 to 1) when you take that rod out it builds what we call a choke which limits the flow of amperage in high voltage circuits. They also work in low voltage but are not used as often or are just called resistors. These create heat and can damage your insulation. Anyway Im blabbering.
Have a good day

I like the blabbering. Trying to learn me a little something something from your point

My 50 amp cable is hard wired inside the coach and of course it it is rolled up for storage. However when in use, I have been pulling out only the length of 50 amp cable I require to reach the pedestal as to not create a tripping hazard etc. (at least minimize the hazard)

If I follow your logic, I should pull the entire cable all the way out when say I only need a few feet? If so, hat would be a lot of work to unroll and reroll?

Since it came that way from mfg what are the specific issues I should be worried about? I don't plan to stick some metal bar in the middle of the 50 amp rolled wired that is in the coach? Nor do I plan to lick a piece of wire and stick it in the 50 amp pedestal to see if it is hot I tried that as a kid on a 15 amp receptacle and it was shocking what I learned

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Gonna see if I follow where this is going.

There is 50 amp service for OP, but he has a donebone to allow connection to 15 amp supply. So the twist is how to handle surge protection?

Am I following this right?

No. The OP has a coach with a 50 amp connection. When he is at a location (like his house) that only has a 15 pr 20 amp receptacle he can use the referenced adapter at his coach end and a small 120 VAC outdoor extension cord to get the limited amp service to his RV instead of the heavy 50 Amp cord he would normally use with 50 amp service.

The question about surge protection came later in the thread and the OP has not been involved in that discussion.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I like the blabbering. Trying to learn me a little something something from your point

My 50 amp cable is hard wired inside the coach and of course it it is rolled up for storage. However when in use, I have been pulling out only the length of 50 amp cable I require to reach the pedestal as to not create a tripping hazard etc. (at least minimize the hazard)

If I follow your logic, I should pull the entire cable all the way out when say I only need a few feet? If so, hat would be a lot of work to unroll and reroll?

Since it came that way from mfg what are the specific issues I should be worried about? I don't plan to stick some metal bar in the middle of the 50 amp rolled wired that is in the coach? Nor do I plan to lick a piece of wire and stick it in the 50 amp pedestal to see if it is hot I tried that as a kid on a 15 amp receptacle and it was shocking what I learned

The induced "choke" effect is negligible in a coil that size in diameter. The heat buildup though may be a real concern if you are running close to the cable's capacity in current on a very hot summer day with the cable coiled so it can't be cooled due to the reduced surface area in the coil.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

No. The OP has a coach with a 50 amp connection. When he is at a location (like his house) that only has a 15 pr 20 amp receptacle he can use the referenced adapter at his coach end and a small 120 VAC outdoor extension cord to get the limited amp service to his RV instead of the heavy 50 Amp cord he would normally use with 50 amp service.

The question about surge protection came later in the thread and the OP has not been involved in that discussion.

Got it. I got two dogbones for same purpose. Pictured is my 15/20 amp one. My dogbones must connect to the 50 amp male end of my cable that is hardwired. I have not used on an extension cord yet, but I did plug the 50/20 amp dogbone directly into my 20 amp receptacle just to see it works and similar for the 50/30 amp dogbone.

As I read about the surge protection, I think I will buy this one

https://www.campingworld.com/portabl...rge-protection

as it can be used to protect my coach's built in surge protector for 50, 30 & 20 amp services. I have power management system inside that tells me how many amps I am drawing at any moment in time. If I have 20 amps service it will know and help to manage what I can use as to not trip breakers

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

The induced "choke" effect is negligible in a coil that size in diameter. The heat buildup though may be a real concern if you are running close to the cable's capacity in current on a very hot summer day with the cable coiled so it can't be cooled due to the reduced surface area in the coil.

So let me know if I learned something?

My takeaway is that if I ever wish to run both ACs; or 1 AC's and have a 4 hour popcorn party going on at the same time, I should pull my 50 amp wire completely out of it's compartment so that it is not rolled up together in that confine space generating heat and some kind of magnetic flux field or coil?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

So let me know if I learned something?

My takeaway is that if I ever wish to run both ACs; or 1 AC's and have a 4 hour popcorn party going on at the same time, on a hot summer day, I should pull my 50 amp wire completely out of it's compartment so that it is not rolled up together in that confine space generating heat and some kind of magnetic flux field or coil?

FTFY and there is always a magnetic flux field around the power cord as the AC current changes direction 60 times a second - the magnetic flux field is not something to worry about.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Got it. I got two dogbones for same purpose. Pictured is my 15/20 amp one. My dogbones must connect to the 50 amp male end of my cable that is hardwired. I have not used on an extension cord yet, but I did plug the 50/20 amp dogbone directly into my 20 amp receptacle just to see it works and similar for the 50/30 amp dogbone.

As I read about the surge protection, I think I will buy this one

https://www.<font color="Red">campin...tection</font>

as it can be used to protect my coach's built in surge protector for 50, 30 & 20 amp services. I have power management system inside that tells me how many amps I am drawing at any moment in time. If I have 20 amps service it will know and help to manage what I can use as to not trip breakers

Don't waist you money on that!. It is just a surge protector. Chances are your grand kids will have grand lids before you will get a spike big enough to make it work within a campground..

That being said I have a surge protector on my house since 1990. 2 lights were lit when I installed it and 2 lights are lit today.

If you have an extra $99 laying around but understand that it will protect for VERY high spike voltage just one time and it will become junk. It is a one hit wonder.

EMS will stop flow of voltage that is over 132 volts and not turn it back on until it goes below. it will also stop electric flow below 108 volts and no let it flow until it is higher. Surge protector can do none of that. Purge protector can show you bad wiring but it can not do anything about it.
.

The problem with campgrounds is LOW VOLTAGE and miss wired peds. What you pictured is just a surge protector and nothing more. What you need to buy is and EMS $250-$300

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by cavie

Don't waist you money on that!. It is just a surge protector. Chances are your grand kids will have grand lids before you will get a spike big enough to make it work within a campground..

That being said I have a surge protector on my house since 1990. 2 lights were lit when I installed it and 2 lights are lit today.

If you have an extra $99 laying around but understand that it will protect for VERY high spike voltage just one time and it will become junk. It is a one hit wonder.

EMS will stop flow of voltage that is over 132 volts and not turn it back on until it goes below. it will also stop electric flow below 108 volts and no let it flow until it is higher. Surge protector can do none of that. Purge protector can show you bad wiring but it can not do anything about it.
.

The problem with campgrounds is LOW VOLTAGE and miss wired peds. What you pictured is just a surge protector and nothing more. What you need to buy is and EMS $250-$300

Actually, I did have $25 just laying around. I recently became Good Sam member for $50 and then they sent me this certificate for $25 to use before 12/30/19. Everything, I needed I could find some place else for cheaper until this topic came up.

I know it is not EMS but it is regular $172 on sale for $99. Lady on the phone allowed me to apply a SAVE10 discounts as well as my $25; so I get this device for $64 + taxes (free shipping) I actually ordered about an hour before reading so it is done deal.

The way I figure, my coach already has a built in Surge guard with transfer switch, so I am basically just adding another in front of it as it will cost a lot more to replace it. The two levels of surge protection in front of my internal coach electronics ain't all bad.

It does tell you a lot of interesting facts about miswiring and open neutral, open ground, neutral reversed on any leg etc. If wiring is not clean or proper I will simply disconnect or move someplace else. Use the generator if I have to.

I need to read up on it more but my coach has Power Management System, it is reading amps and voltage and has the ability manage devices that may be safely used based on power source and available current.

I like the fact that I can use the single surge guard that is now on order for all three configurations 50/30/20, verify the wiring of every source before I EVEN connect it to my coach all for $64.

[16ACE27]

With the 10% and $25 savings you got a good deal. But for future reference, never believe the "sale" price at CW, nobody sells at CW's MSRP price. If fact, the average street price for that Surge Guard is $95.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

With the 10% and $25 savings you got a good deal. But for future reference, never believe the "sale" price at CW, nobody sells at CW's MSRP price. If fact, the average street price for that Surge Guard is $95.

I love deals. How else could I afford my new coach

I got that Safe T Plus 41-180 for $401 It was on sale and I got an additional 20% off for that CyberMonday scam sale day But I learned it went on backorder so I am waiting for it. Disclaimer while I have Safe T Plus on my signature, it is not actually installed yet. I got the mounting brackets but never could get the two 1 1/8" nuts off. I sprayed that Blaster Penetration oil 3 times a day for 2 days. I could only break the washers to turn freely but never could get the nuts to budge. I had impact tool at 120 psi but it could not do the job. I think I may have to find someone to at least mount the bracket and then I can do the rest. Or if it is right place and price they could do it all but I don't know when I will get the 41-180 Stabilizer.

[Judge]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

No. The OP has a coach with a 50 amp connection. When he is at a location (like his house) that only has a 15 pr 20 amp receptacle he can use the referenced adapter at his coach end and a small 120 VAC outdoor extension cord to get the limited amp service to his RV instead of the heavy 50 Amp cord he would normally use with 50 amp service.

The question about surge protection came later in the thread and the OP has not been involved in that discussion.

Let me get re-involved with the discussion.....

Back in my original post I stated I installed an onboard EMS so I do have surge protection.

I installed a hardwired EMS-HW50C as soon as I brought the coach home.

I do have a 30A outlet on the side of my garage from my last coach and I have a 50A to 30A adapter for it. I use the 30A in the summer when I want to run one of the two A/C units if I am working inside the coach or we are getting it ready for the trip.

Now that the coach is winterized, I wanted the 50A to 15A adapter so I could just use a regular extension cord to keep the batteries charged or provide a small amount of power if I need it without having to pull out the 50A shore power cord.

This has also given me the flexibility to move the coach to the other side of my driveway while my pole building to store it is being built... the 30A outlet is on the other side of my garage where the construction is going on.

[Habu77]

Originally Posted by CampTap

As a commercial electrician I would advise against leaving wires coiled up. This creates a "choke" on your power causing heat at the coils. Even with insulated cables the EMF will build in the coil creating resistance and heat. A coil of wire is basically a transformer without a core. If you were to take a steel bar and put in in tbe middle of that coil you will read voltage off the bar in accordance with your turns ratio (how many coils of wire around the 1 bar ie 4-5 to 1) when you take that rod out it builds what we call a choke which limits the flow of amperage in high voltage circuits. They also work in low voltage but are not used as often or are just called resistors. These create heat and can damage your insulation. Anyway Im blabbering.
Have a good day

As an EE, trained in the USAF, I agree 100% with CampTap.

[dkoldman]

Let's say you have one of these dogbones or Surge Guards plugged into a pedestal. They are normally 12 - 18 inches long. when you plug into the 30 amp or 50 amp cable source; what happens when it rains as water can seep into the connection, won't that trip the breaker?

[TurnerFam]

if rain is an issue, simply wrap it in a w*mt bag, but otherwise it's generally not a problem as the connection is pretty tight, and actually water is not necessarily an issue with electricity, since overhead lines are exposed all the time. It's not a GFCI outlet or adapter, so it's not going to trip just because of moisture.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by TurnerFam

if rain is an issue, simply wrap it in a w*mt bag, but otherwise it's generally not a problem as the connection is pretty tight, and actually water is not necessarily an issue with electricity, since overhead lines are exposed all the time. It's not a GFCI outlet or adapter, so it's not going to trip just because of moisture.

These guys sent me a picture telling me to forget about it.

I think I will take their word for it and not try to test it out

[rudyhehn]

I wish I had read CampTap's post in December. I had a near tragedy last week and want to warn others. In the past I sometimes need to bring power to the RV before leaving on a trip, for the fridge. I use a 100 foot (14/3) extension cord run out to my RV from my garage plug. Usually the cord is fully uncoiled, but this time the RV was close to the house so I left the cord coiled on a stepstool, next to the RV dogbone adapter. When we returned from a shopping trip we had a moderate sized campfire on the stepstool, 2 feet from the RV. I grabbed the fire extinguisher and put out the fire. The house breaker had tripped, but too late to prevent the cord heat from igniting the cord insulation. Amazingly the RV wall was warm but not damaged, and the fire had not spread. Could have been a disaster but we were lucky. Lessons: 1 - Use a 12/3 cord if you are powering a residential fridge plus charging house batteries; 2 - DO NOT leave an extension cord coiled in use; 3 - Fire extinguishers are worth their weight in gold. Know how to use yours and be sure it is ready for use.

[Bob Denman]

At least you only had to replace that sub-standard cord...
(And change your shorts! )

[DogLovers]

My neighbor is an electrician. He ran a dedicated 30amp service line from the breakers to a typical campground type outdoor box protected receptacle on the side of my garage near the driveway. Everything is in conduit and anchored along the route. Now I just drive up the driveway near the garage and plug the RV into safe reliable shore power all the time. Winter we store the RV indoors but the rest of the year when not on the road it’s in my driveway staying fully charged. He only charged $200 plus materials. The whole thing ended up around $300-$350 well worth it.