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Old 05-13-2019, 05:08 PM   #1
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addition 15-amp shore power

I own a Thor ACE motorhome and it has 30-amp electrical connection for shore power. I am wanting to add an addition 120v connection for 15-amp shore power and one 120v 15-amp receptacle with USB? 120 v amp connection with probably have to be 15-amp extension cord. This would require boring hole through the side of the motorhome and running the extension cord through the motorhome frame and body. I am using the 15-amp extension cord because it is stranded and can take the movement of the motorhome. Is this a mistake using the extension cord? I am wanting a dedicated 15-amp receptacle in the kitchen area from a dedicated shore power. Or am I stupid
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Old 05-13-2019, 05:19 PM   #2
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My only question would be....WHY ?

I simply use a 30A-to-20A adapter to plug my rig's 30 amp power cord into a standard 20 amp outlet in my garage.

And if you do go ahead with it, how does "movement of the motorhome" figure into the plan ? If you're plugged into shore power, you aren't driving the rig.

Am I misinterpreting your plan ?
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Old 05-13-2019, 05:30 PM   #3
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I was wanting to use my 30-amp at campground plus connecting to the 15-amp or 20 amp also. this would 15-amp would feed a outlet to my kitchen which I hope would give me total of 45-amp.
thanks
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Old 05-13-2019, 05:35 PM   #4
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I added a second A/C unit and had to add a seperate 15 amp circut for the second A/C unit. (only had 30AMP service)
I used 10/3 romex wire to the A/C unit. You can do the same for a seperate kitchen circut. I also added a fuse for that service.
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Old 05-13-2019, 05:53 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Ron1Z View Post
I added a second A/C unit and had to add a seperate 15 amp circut for the second A/C unit. (only had 30AMP service)
I used 10/3 romex wire to the A/C unit. You can do the same for a seperate kitchen circut. I also added a fuse for that service.
I can understand adding another breaker and wiring like that (although personally I'd use stranded 12 gauge wire).

But for just adding one outlet, I certainly wouldn't be drilling through the side of the RV, installing a second breaker box (which would be required if adding a second shore power source) and I definitely wouldn't be running extension cord wire underneath the RV to feed that single outlet. Sounds like a surefire way to lose insurance and warranty coverages, and could create liability issues if anything went wrong.
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Old 05-13-2019, 06:34 PM   #6
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^^^AGREE^^^ Drill from underneath and run any wiring through the flooring somewhere, under a sofa or cabinet. Not the walls of the RV. Seems staying along the path of the existing wiring would be easier.
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Old 05-13-2019, 07:20 PM   #7
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Sounds like a surefire way to lose insurance and warranty coverages
Why do you think the OP would lose insurance coverage? You know your insurance still covers you even when you make mistakes?

For the OP: You don't need stranded wire; none of the rest of the coaches 120 VAC wiring is stranded. Just use Romex and protect this circuit with a small breaker box like this:

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Old 05-13-2019, 08:05 PM   #8
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Thank all you for the help and advise. I think I will use a marine 15 Amp 125-Volt RV Inlet and mount it under the side of motorhome with #12 awg 3/c romex (maybe marine cabling), and a small breaker panel mounted inside the kitchen cabinet. Does this sound okay for mounting inlet?
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:54 PM   #9
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This all sounds like a lot of work to me.... Are you just wanting to added another outlet with USB outlets?

Using an outlet that was next/ near to your current one (Wire like you would for your house - see you tube - lots of videos) and then use the recepital that has two build in USB outlets.

Or you can add to your existing fuse panel and run romex (if nothing is in a slide) and find where the factory ran your other wires (inside the RV) fish it though to the area you want the outlet and try to pick somethig easy to install (not an outside wall).

Or am i not understanding what your asking?
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:57 PM   #10
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Here is what I did for an exta outlet under my dinette. But I was lucky.... already had power wire for another outlet and it had plenty of slack for me to re-route to my outlet as well.
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:06 PM   #11
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Note in one picture above that the Factory runs flexable "power cord" wire into my slide first then it connects to romex (seen connector on floor for the black flexable wire to rigid white romex.
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
This all sounds like a lot of work to me.... Are you just wanting to added another outlet with USB outlets?

Using an outlet that was next/ near to your current one (Wire like you would for your house - see you tube - lots of videos) and then use the recepital that has two build in USB outlets.

Or you can add to your existing fuse panel and run romex (if nothing is in a slide) and find where the factory ran your other wires (inside the RV) fish it though to the area you want the outlet and try to pick somethig easy to install (not an outside wall).

Or am i not understanding what your asking?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
Here is what I did for an exta outlet under my dinette. But I was lucky.... already had power wire for another outlet and it had plenty of slack for me to re-route to my outlet as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
Note in one picture above that the Factory runs flexable "power cord" wire into my slide first then it connects to romex (seen connector on floor for the black flexable wire to rigid white romex.
That's a lot of work posting in this thread!

You didn't read the OP:
He wants an additional 15 amps of shore power available
He wants it in the kitchen where lots of appliances can use close to 15 amps all by themselves
He additionally wants the convenience of a couple of USB charging ports since he's installing a new receptacle anyway.

I hope that makes more sense to you now.
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Old 05-13-2019, 11:01 PM   #13
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If you are adding an outlet in the kitchen area I think it should a GFI. I know the outlet in our kitchen outlet is on a GFI circuit, which I believe is required by Code. You could also use a Ground Fault breaker for the same protection for your added outlet. Good luck with the project.
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Old 05-13-2019, 11:13 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by John & Diane View Post
If you are adding an outlet in the kitchen area I think it should a GFI. I know the outlet in our kitchen outlet is on a GFI circuit, which I believe is required by Code. You could also use a Ground Fault breaker for the same protection for your added outlet. Good luck with the project.
True but all campground pedestals have 20 amp GFCI receptacles, or at least the newer ones do.
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Old 05-13-2019, 11:47 PM   #15
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I added a additional plug above the existing for the additional ac and outlet .
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Old 05-13-2019, 11:54 PM   #16
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I am planning of using #12 3/c cable which is good for 20 amp, and the power source use a GFCI outlets, if not I am planning on using a extension with one.
thanks
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Old 05-14-2019, 02:03 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
Why do you think the OP would lose insurance coverage? You know your insurance still covers you even when you make mistakes?
Some do, some don't. But you can bet they'll drop you like a hot potato when they learn the rig burned down due to modifications that were contrary to RVIA standards.
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Old 05-14-2019, 03:14 AM   #18
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Some do, some don't. But you can bet they'll drop you like a hot potato when they learn the rig burned down due to modifications that were contrary to RVIA standards.
Yeah, sure. Thor builds rigs everyday that are contrary to RVIA standards, whatever you think that may be.

And after the rig has burned to the ground the policy is no longer in effect anyway so there would be no dropping.

And show me any insurance policy in writing that doesn't cover you when you make a mistake. That's the whole purpose of insurance.

There are exemptions in writing in polices such as using your vehicle in a race on a racetrack, but if you're racing on the street from a red light and you wreck you are still covered, even though you did something stupid.
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Old 05-14-2019, 03:16 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by 16ACE27 View Post
That's a lot of work posting in this thread!

You didn't read the OP:
He wants an additional 15 amps of shore power available
He wants it in the kitchen where lots of appliances can use close to 15 amps all by themselves
He additionally wants the convenience of a couple of USB charging ports since he's installing a new receptacle anyway.

I hope that makes more sense to you now.
Yes I read it, but its "only 15 amps". I know that a lot but Im thinking these outlets can go up to 15 amps? (or is it 10 amp?). I would think he could run that on one outlet (but with nothing else drawing big amps on the same line - so not like TWO blow dryers or TWO electic heaters at the same time on same circuit).

I guess the question is "what are you running and what else do you want to run at the same time"?. Then that would determine if he needs an extra OUTSIDE 15/20 amp hookup in addition to his 30 amp.

I would still think he could run a separate 10 g romex from the existing breaker panel (with its own 15 or 20 amp breaker) and route new wire to where he needs the outlet.... but I could be wrong.....its happend before.... dont tell anyone.
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Old 05-14-2019, 03:23 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
Yes I read it, but its "only 15 amps". I know that a lot but Im thinking these outlets can go up to 15 amps? (or is it 10 amp?). I would think he could run that on one outlet (but with nothing else drawing big amps on the same line - so not like TWO blow dryers or TWO electic heaters at the same time on same circuit).

I guess the question is "what are you running and what else do you want to run at the same time"?. Then that would determine if he needs an extra OUTSIDE 15/20 amp hookup in addition to his 30 amp.

I would still think he could run a separate 10 g romex from the existing breaker panel (with its own 15 or 20 amp breaker) and route new wire to where he needs the outlet.... but I could be wrong.....its happend before.... dont tell anyone.
On a 30 amp coach? It's easy to overload the standard 30 amp input:

AC - 17 Amps
Water Heater - 10 Amps
Now plug in your coffee pot, toaster oven, or even microwave oven to cook and you're over 30 amps easy without even taking into account minor loads like TVs, converter, etc.

He wants the additional 15 amps available, he doesn't want just another outlet. Makes perfect sense to me.
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