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Old 12-17-2018, 12:45 AM   #41
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I ended up using 6awg because it was easier to work when connecting to the Converter
Even though AIMs recommends 4awg.

My reasoning is that inverter is only powering 1 TV and maybe a DVD player when it's ON. That's no more than 200 watts (?).

(The majority of the outlets in my Vegas 24.1 is on the GFI line which only works with shore power)

When inverter is plugged into shore power, and the transfer switch automatically comes on...the inverter only serves as a conduit/go-between the 14awg standard household wire from the Converter to the outlets.

So, in my opinion....6awg is fine
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Old 12-17-2018, 01:45 AM   #42
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All of this sounds interesting,I would like to install about 1200 inverter to run front tv,dvd player & coffee pot not at same time tho, how do I dedicate the 110 plugs for that ? & still use same plugs when plugged into CG pedestal.
confused.
Thanks in Advanced
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Old 12-17-2018, 05:06 PM   #43
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THOR #13980
To properly do what you want you first need to find space for a second breaker box & 2ond xfer switch.
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Old 12-17-2018, 05:12 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Toyman View Post
To properly do what you want you first need to find space for a second breaker box & 2ond xfer switch.
Not necessarily
Check the forum for those that have added an “inverter with transfer switch” off of the converter
It’s a fairly ez install without a 2nd breaker box
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Old 12-17-2018, 05:18 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by MichFigs View Post
Thanks for all your help and ideas, will add the GFI for the outside TV, thanks taylorbob1. Recently upgraded to the PD 4655V, now want to add the AIMS Pure Sine 1200. But noticed in the literature that AIMS recommends 4AWG or 2AWG (best)for feeding the unit. Should I upgrade my wires from the battery to the inverter, just to feed the receptacles that power the TVS as you all have done? Not adverse to doing this as it does not look like too big a challenge. The biggest wires at the DC board are 6AWG, is this enough for the inverter to run efficiently?
Im thinking of upgrading to the PD 4655 as well. Great minds think alike. LOL.

Its 4 gauge. 6 shoud be fine but it was only about a 4 foot run from the OEM fuse panel to the mounting location so why not get 4g?

I thought about upgrading the wires directly from the battery as well but this is the way I looked a it.

A) Most of the OEM installed inverters just use what 12v wires are already in the fuse box already.

B) Im not going to push the max 1200 watts in my rv. I only purchased it to run the TWO TV's inside (I might hook up the outside TV at a later date) and a DVD player, plus charge one or two phone and my laptop. So I could have gotten by with a 600 or 800 watt inverter just fine.

C). Since the wires from the battery to the OEM fuse box are about 20 foot long I might only realize 1000 watts on my 1200 inverter - which was fine with me.

I like the keep stuff hidden and make it easy to install so this worked out great for me.

I though the OEM wires were 6g as well buth they ar not ....you can make 4g fit just fine... its tight but it will work with the OEM fuse panel. Make sure to add a fuse (or circuit break like I did).
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Old 12-17-2018, 05:23 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by taylorbob1 View Post
Not necessarily
Check the forum for those that have added an “inverter with transfer switch” off of the converter
It’s a fairly ez install without a 2nd breaker box
I agree, thats how I installed mine.

I could have installed mine for GFI outlets only but I didnt plan on running anything in the kitchen (or bathroom) on my inverter. The other OEM breaker was for the TV's and a few outlets that I needed for my computer/phone so that worked out perfect for my needs.

On my RV the recepital above the sink is for the TV and a DVD player. So you could add a 6 foot extention cord for your coffee pot if you wanted. But that will be high draw so you might have to shut the TV's and other stuff off to make sure it works properly.
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Old 12-17-2018, 05:42 PM   #47
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I’d be interested to know how you control individual circuits without a separate distribution box.

I usually use an inverter large enough to handle whatever, then wire the inverter/charger in series with my shore power. Everything is then hot with the inverter, does take some understanding & discipline on the part of the user.
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Old 12-17-2018, 05:51 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Oneilkeys View Post
It has been my experience with two converter chargers in my 2014 Vegas and 2016 Axis that they do not work well - if at all. The converter charger is supposed to charge your batteries at 14.1v if they are seriously discharged until they get up to about 50% charge. Then it should drop down to about 13.5V until the batteries are fully charged. Finally it should drop the charge down to about 13.1v to keep the batteries charged and not boil your batteries. You can easily test if your charger is operating thus way with a volt meter. I have one permanently connected to my batteries. Neither of my OEM converter chargers ever got out of the 13.5v mode. If yours does not drop down to the 13.1v "float" mode, over time it will boil over your batteries and destroy them. If it does not charge at 14.1v when you batteries are below 50%, it takes a long time to recharge your batteries. I replaced my converter charger with a Progressive Dynamics 4655 which is a direct replacement and it works as it should.
I did the same thing in our ACE 30.1 The Progressive Dynamics unit just slid into the power center in the same spot the WFCO was. We had a WFCO in our old travel trailer and it wrecked a pair of fairly new Interstate 12 batteries.

When we changed out the power converter in the ACE, I also changed out the Harris batteries, that weren't taking much of a change at less than a year old, with a pair of Interstate 6V batteries. Got 225 amp-hour capacity vs. the 160 that the Harris batteries claimed (and never delivered). The Harris batteries probably got quite a bit of abuse and no maintenance in the RV dealer's lot.

My current project is to add a 1500 watt Windy Nation VertaMax inverter to the ACE. It will go in a storage compartment nearest the batteries, next to my solar charger. I plan on just plugging my shore power cable into the inverter while camped rather than going to the cost and complexity of a permanent connection to the breaker box. I just have to make sure that the converter breaker is off while on inverter and train DW that you cannot use the microwave, coffee maker and hair dryer at the same time. The hardest part of the project is DW training.
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Old 12-17-2018, 05:59 PM   #49
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So, using an inverter with a built-in transfer switch, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1


You would connect A/C power from the existing breaker panel to the inverter, then move the outlets wire from the outlet of the existing panel to the outlet of the inverter. Is this correct?
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Old 12-17-2018, 06:28 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by jabrabu View Post
So, using an inverter with a built-in transfer switch, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1


You would connect A/C power from the existing breaker panel to the inverter, then move the outlets wire from the outlet of the existing panel to the outlet of the inverter. Is this correct?
Thats the exact inverter I have.

You grab the outlets you want to power (Mine only has GFI and NON GFI) and I cut the wire in half (After the breaker on the OEM fuse panel for the outlets I want to control). Put the inverter AC input from this breaker and the other half of the line you just cut on the output.

Its pretty easy.... just takes time.
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Old 12-17-2018, 08:00 PM   #51
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Trying to make sure I understand correctly. You feed power from a circuit (breaker output) you want powered by the inverter to the inverter AC input (only applicable on inverters with internal xfer seems). Then take the inverter output to power that individual circuit ?

That will work.
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Old 12-17-2018, 08:12 PM   #52
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too bad there's not a converter upgrade replacement that includes an inverter for some or all circuits.

I've been thinking for a long time about getting an inverter for the one outlet that powers my coffee maker. that really is about the only significant thing we've run into a few times when we couldn't use the genny for early AM, because of the noise. Our primary tv is already set up as a 12VDC, just can't use the soundbar I added but that's ok.
Anyway, I've toyed with the idea of installing an inverter under the bed in my rig, near the converter, and just swapping out that one outlet circuit to power through it.
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Old 12-17-2018, 08:40 PM   #53
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Trying to make sure I understand correctly. You feed power from a circuit (breaker output) you want powered by the inverter to the inverter AC input (only applicable on inverters with internal xfer seems). Then take the inverter output to power that individual circuit ?

That will work.

That's my understanding, if you just want to power one circuit. My rig has one circuit labeled "outlets", which I assume will power all the electrical outlets, including the ones the TVs and DVD players are plugged into. Perhaps also the microwave and fridge. I know the induction cooktop has its own circuit.


If you want to power multiple circuits, I've seen folks add a sub-panel that is powered from the inverter and then goes to the various circuits. This is probably the more elegant approach, but more complicated to install.



Another option is to wire the output of the inverter to your main breaker panel A/C input so that everything is powered from the inverter. This makes installation pretty easy, but you have to be careful not to turn on heavy load items (like the A/C) while powered by the inverter.
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Old 12-17-2018, 09:04 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Toyman View Post
Trying to make sure I understand correctly. You feed power from a circuit (breaker output) you want powered by the inverter to the inverter AC input (only applicable on inverters with internal xfer seems). Then take the inverter output to power that individual circuit ?

That will work.
On the Vegas/Axis...there are two outlet lines that come out of the "Converter"...

1) Outlets (non GFI) for TV's and DVR hook up inside the cabinets or next to the two interior TVs

2) GFI Outlets for all others including the bathroom, one by the front door, one in the passenger seat/office area, one on the inside wall, and one under the kitchen sink that feeds the outside TV. Also one on the outside of the coach and in an outside bay

For the application that most of us have done, we place the inverter with transfer switch between the Converter and the Non-GFI outlets. that way all tv's inside the coach work.

If you want the outside TV to work via the inverter you'll need to add an outlet under the Kitchen sink that connects to this Non-GFI outlet line

If you want the GFI outlet to be available via the inverter in the passenger office area, you'll need to run a separate line under the coach that connects to this non-GFI outlet line

As previously said...most on this forum only want to run one TV and DVD player off the inverter without running the generator when there's no Shore-Power hook up available.
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Old 12-17-2018, 09:10 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Toyman View Post
Trying to make sure I understand correctly. You feed power from a circuit (breaker output) you want powered by the inverter to the inverter AC input (only applicable on inverters with internal xfer seems). Then take the inverter output to power that individual circuit ?

That will work.
Yes, and it does need the auto transfer switch too.

This Aims inverter we are talking about has this build in. Best bang for the buck.
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Old 12-17-2018, 09:12 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by blw2 View Post
too bad there's not a converter upgrade replacement that includes an inverter for some or all circuits.

I've been thinking for a long time about getting an inverter for the one outlet that powers my coffee maker. that really is about the only significant thing we've run into a few times when we couldn't use the genny for early AM, because of the noise. Our primary tv is already set up as a 12VDC, just can't use the soundbar I added but that's ok.
Anyway, I've toyed with the idea of installing an inverter under the bed in my rig, near the converter, and just swapping out that one outlet circuit to power through it.
Yep, just do it. You will be glad you did. You can charge cell phones, lap tops etc as well. Plus DVD player and TV's. All without the Genny running.
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Old 12-17-2018, 09:19 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by jabrabu View Post
That's my understanding, if you just want to power one circuit. My rig has one circuit labeled "outlets", which I assume will power all the electrical outlets, including the ones the TVs and DVD players are plugged into. Perhaps also the microwave and fridge. I know the induction cooktop has its own circuit.


If you want to power multiple circuits, I've seen folks add a sub-panel that is powered from the inverter and then goes to the various circuits. This is probably the more elegant approach, but more complicated to install.



Another option is to wire the output of the inverter to your main breaker panel A/C input so that everything is powered from the inverter. This makes installation pretty easy, but you have to be careful not to turn on heavy load items (like the A/C) while powered by the inverter.
Yes, I have seen the sub-panels as well. I guess it all depends on what you want to power. I look at it as "what do I really need to power". No since in going overkill IMO.

Yeah I guess you could do the main breaker but you would need a much bigger (and expensive) inverter.

What are you trying to power and how long are you off the grid?

You would need a lot of batteries for the AC along with a soft start. Its not worth it for me. You might spend $3000 - $6000 (with lithiums) to make it work correctly to run the Air Con but only be able to run for 4 or 5 hours before you batteries are depleated.

IMO its just not worth it unless you have a big rig (35 + foot), lots of room for batteries and use it 6+ mo a year off the grid.
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Old 12-17-2018, 09:26 PM   #58
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You would connect A/C power from the existing breaker panel to the inverter, then move the outlets wire from the outlet of the existing panel to the outlet of the inverter. Is this correct?[/QUOTE]

Probably a lot more than that. The inverter only passes through 10 amps, while you have either 30 amp or 50 amp shore power services. So you don't want to pass shore power through the inverter unless you want to be limited all the time. I've seen a few inverters in the 3000 - 5000 watt class that do have a 30 amp pass through. Bring money.

To do it "right" takes an extra transfer switch upstream of the existing one. Lift the generator input and relocate to new upstream transfer switch along with the inverter input. Then land the output of the upstream transfer switch where the generator was. I don't recall seeing a three input transfer switch, but one would be nice.

I looked into hard wiring the inverter, but the amount of rewiring required was horrendous. My electrical distribution is at the foot of the bed and uses a compartment about 10 inches deep (water tank takes up most of the space). I don't have room for a second transfer switch where the original is located, so the problem becomes exponentially harder.

Splitting my breakers is even more fun - no space so its no small job. If I was going to all that work, I'd convert the coach to 50 amp. So going the external plug route and shutting off the A/C, water heater and converter breakers when on inverter power has a lot more appeal.
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Old 12-17-2018, 10:43 PM   #59
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I agree with Denvertransplant.

It would cost to much, take up too much room, hard to wire.

Just keep it simple. Esp if you have a small RV like mine (Axis).

One inverter with build in transfer switch, grab one line from the fuse box and you can alway add one or two more outlets to that line at a later date to put them where you need inverter power.
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Old 12-17-2018, 11:00 PM   #60
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The Xantrex Pro Series of MSW inverters have a 15 amp A/C transfer relay. The Xantrex Freedom XI series of SW inverters have a 30 amp A/C transfer relay. The Magnum series usually has a 50- 60 amp A/C transfer relay. All have remote monitoring capability. Xantrex sells a A/C transfer relay by itself for SW inverters (about $60).
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