E450 Suspension Upgrades

[Judge]

I’ve got a 2018 Outlaw 29H that we picked up last August. After bringing it back 5 hours from the dealer for Warranty work a couple weeks ago in windy conditions and a parade of 18-wheelers I decided enough is enough with the terrible handling.

I really wanted the Weldtec lift and suspension kit posted by another member but I could not find anyone local to install it.

After reading dozens of threads and the almost 100% consensus it makes a night and day difference, I decided to go with the Roadmaster Steering Stabilizer and Hellwig front and rear sway bars. From videos and reading install instructions I felt I could do the installation myself. These were all direct replacements with no drilling and should make a noticeable improvement.

Just ordered everything from Amazon yesterday. I’m almost getting old too be crawling around underneath the rig to do this tripe of work by I figured it is well worth the aches and pains afterwards.

I’ll post results once I get it installed and road tested. After I see how that all works out, my next plan is for an alignment and have them do a shock upgrade.

I noticed the Levelers can be adjusted upwards so I may do that to get some extra clearance and use some blocks when needed for leveling. That won’t help with the low clearance for the tank drain but I’ll fix that once it gets ripped off at some point from being so low to the ground.

[taylorbob1]

All smart mods
You will certainly feel a difference
Those Helwig front & rear sway bars are amazing

It is a very EZ install with your hydraulic leveling system
Raise the entire unit for access, un-bolt old stuff, install new components

[Judge]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

All smart mods

You will certainly feel a difference

Those Helwig front & rear sway bars are amazing



It is a very EZ install with your hydraulic leveling system

Raise the entire unit for access, un-bolt old stuff, install new components

Thanks for the tip!

I was wondering if the wheels needed to be on the ground with the suspension loaded to do the rear sway bar.

[taylorbob1]

oh wait! you are correct
i stand corrected...

to install the Helwig sway bars you use blocks to raise the entire frame and chassis together.
place blocks under the tire and raise the front end to install the fronts sways
then separately, block the rear tires to raise the rear end to install the sways

i was thinking of SUMO installation
when installing SUMO's, you raise the chassis and allow the wheels to hang which provides separation from the axel to allow for install

sorry 'bout that.

[Judge]

Ok.... thanks for verifying I did have it right in my head!

[Bob Denman]

Throw another vote on the SumoSpring pile from me!

[Judge]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

Throw another vote on the SumoSpring pile from me!

I will check those out as one of my next upgrades.

[Judge]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

Throw another vote on the SumoSpring pile from me!

Hey Bob.....

How hard or easy was it to install the Sumo Springs on your Outlaw 29H?

Did you do front and rear? Did you also do the sway bars?

Trying to decide if I should just get the Hellwig sway bars installed first and see how she rides before buying the SumoSprings too.

I carry a Spyder like you.

Chris

[azadv]

Originally Posted by Judge

I’ve got a 2018 Outlaw 29H that we picked up last August.
...
I noticed the Levelers can be adjusted upwards so I may do that to get some extra clearance and use some blocks when needed for leveling. That won’t help with the low clearance for the tank drain but I’ll fix that once it gets ripped off at some point from being so low to the ground.

You can't adjust the front levelers on the class C Outlaw up any more, only the rear, and the front is where you really need more clearance. The front hydraulic jacks will hit the floor if trying to go up any more with the mounting holes. This is why I did the Weldtec lift and taller tires, I just didn't see any other option except removing the levelers or attempting to cut holes in the front cab floor for the jacks to go up more then cover the jacks with pop-up covers (but I think the front seat pedestals would be in the way). Messy solution though...

As for the black-to-gray waste water dump tube running low under and across the middle of the coach below the driveshaft (shit design), I removed mine before I ever took it on first trip and now have a connection on each side (black/gray) for dumping each individually, or use a Y 3" hose connector and hoses if I want to add both together. I pretty much dumped each individually during my 4.5 month 14K+ mile AK/east coast trip, unless I had a full sewer hookup which I think was once for less than a week. My dealer mentioned that customers had the OEM cross-connection tube setup ripped off/broken when I first picked up the coach and that was their solution, so I implemented myself along with the other gazillion mods I also bought a portable 12V macerator that I can connect to the black water side (or gray but not really needed) and use a 3/4" hose over long distance to pump the dump out if need be, and added 12V SAE plugs to middle outside of each side of the coach to either run the macerator or a 12V air pump. Just adds flexibility to dump options.

[Judge]

Originally Posted by azadv

As for the black-to-gray waste water dump tube running low under and across the middle of the coach below the driveshaft (shit design), I removed mine before I ever took it on first trip and now have a connection on each side (black/gray) for dumping each individually, or use a Y 3" hose connector and hoses if I want to add both together. I pretty much dumped each individually during my 4.5 month 14K+ mile AK/east coast trip, unless I had a full sewer hookup which I think was once for less than a week. My dealer mentioned that customers had the OEM cross-connection tube setup ripped off/broken when I first picked up the coach and that was their solution, so I implemented myself along with the other gazillion mods I also bought a portable 12V macerator that I can connect to the black water side (or gray but not really needed) and use a 3/4" hose over long distance to pump the dump out if need be, and added 12V SAE plugs to middle outside of each side of the coach to either run the macerator or a 12V air pump. Just adds flexibility to dump options.

We do think alike! When I saw the design I could not believe anyone at Thor would think it was a good idea and last long before getting torn off.

I also thought about doing what you did... but didn't think of the macerator pump.

My other idea was to remove the solid PVC and replace it with the flexible sewer hose with hangers holding it up. If something hits the hose, it would give without breaking. Although eventually it could wear a hole in it if rubbed enough.

I think I like the separate dumps and a Y-connector best.

On my Outlaw it looks like there was enough room between the top of the jacks and the floor that I could go up one hole before the front jacks would hit. I'll have to measure to be sure.

I could not find anyone locally to install the Weldtec Lift Kit so I opted to upgrade the suspension myself to at least fix the crappy handling.

This weekend I installed the Hellwig front and rear sway bars, Roadmaster Steering Stablizer and front and rear SumoSprings. It went from a white-knuckled driving experience to a dream. It now handles closer to a big SUV than a dump truck with a dead elephant on its back.

There is a local company that specialized in big vehicle springs, etc. I might see if they could lift it a couple inches but don't know what that would do to all my suspension upgrades.

[azadv]

I don't know why it would be such a big deal to install the Weldtec lift for a local company. I was gonna do it myself but didn't have the room in my driveway and didn't have all my tools and compressor etc at GF's 1 acre house where I parked it and did all my mods for a few months before trip. I doubt you could do a front lift without the bent I-beams and modified stock control arms the Weldtec kit has, and have the correct geometry. Jeremy said they adjust the alignment on kits to compensate for the slight curvature of the road so RV tracks straight. They do mention the kit doesn't upset any RSC control in newer model coaches, not sure if the Outlaw chassis has that. I did install the Fox steering stabilizer myself and it's was a big help over the stock one.

[JJMON]

Originally Posted by airforceret

That shutter at certain distances is known as being in the "rockin' chair" and there is not much you can do about that. If you've not had a quality front end alignment at a Ford big truck center you're probably not getting the best driving experience. I've got 18,000 miles on my 26B and it runs down the highway as good as my truck.

You will experience the same aerodynamics in any vehicle. If you are closer to the big rig you will be in the draft (nascar fans will get this) as such a smoother ride. BUT being close limits your forward vision should you need to make an evasive manuver as well as braking reaction and distance.

[Glenn Briglio]

Originally Posted by vegasruv24.1

you are spot on my friend....I've kept kinda quiet aboiut this as I no longer have a e series at all, This is probley the first time since 1979 that I've not had at least an E350 van, and most of the time a van and a class b+ or c...

the problem, if you call it that is most all E series are over sprung in the front and under in the rear...the norm before sumo's for me was to just take it to the spring shop , add a rear leaf, and put softer springs in the front...


I've put sumos in the front and they make it real harsh riding and take away wheel travel....big bumps get transferred right up though the frame...


the bilstien gas charged shock is by far the best option... and is a huge benefit on was board roads and keeping the tire hooked up..


sway bars is another huge mod...and even more so on the E350 class c and vegas models as the rear end is 4'' narrower , and the frame is thinner and the get a lot more frame twist and flex...


the rear sumos, when installed behind the rear axel.... huge difference... if fact, that's all I usually do... I put the 235/85's and rear sumo's and just run it with great results...I leave the stock shocks, sway bars, and every thing as is... I get the front aligned to 5 degrees caster and go...with my 22E I towed a 22' trailer loaded to 10k....of coarse I up'd my hitch to 10k..it pulled like a dream

What hitch did you use?

[Roadking]

Originally Posted by Glenn Briglio

What hitch did you use?

Same receiver that came with Rig. I hope our posts help others. My rig handles and rides like a Suburban. Wife can drive t it now. Sweet spot is 66but will cruse at any speed above that. Thanks for the teply

[Chuck13]

I have a 2018 Vegas and have the safe-t-plus and Koni shocks. Now I want to upgrade the front and rear springs and sway bars.
Can someone provide me the pant numbers for these springs and bars?
Sure would appreciate the help.
Also maybe suggest where to order these.
Thank You
Chuck B

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by Chuck13

I have a 2018 Vegas and have the safe-t-plus and Koni shocks. Now I want to upgrade the front and rear springs and sway bars.

Can someone provide me the pant numbers for these springs and bars?

Sure would appreciate the help.

Also maybe suggest where to order these.

Thank You

Chuck B

I got all my stuff from etrailer. You can find all the part numbers there too. Or just call them. They are very helpful

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by Chuck13

I have a 2018 Vegas and have the safe-t-plus and Koni shocks. Now I want to upgrade the front and rear springs and sway bars.
Can someone provide me the pant numbers for these springs and bars?
Sure would appreciate the help.
Also maybe suggest where to order these.
Thank You
Chuck B

FRONT SUMO SPRINGS

REAR SUMO SPRINGS

FRONT HELWIG SWAY BAR

MOOG END LINKS for FRONT SWAY BAR (stronger than Ford OEM)

REAR HELWIG SWAY BAR

I have all of these on my coach, ordered thru Amazon.