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Old 07-30-2019, 12:19 AM   #1
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THOR #1620
Ever wish our crank out windows opened further?

Ok, so I dont know how many of you have wished the dang windows would open farther, well now they can and it is pretty easy. When you crank out the window the 2 arms only squeeze together so close, Hmmmm why. Well there is a plastic spacer in between the 2 arms to stop them. As is the windows will only open 3-1/4" I got mine to open up 5" and could be more but 5" is a great improvement.

So here is the process, the crank mechanism is riveted in with 3/16" rivets, you have to drill those out using a 3/16" drill. Once they are out and the crank is free, just slide it out one side and the plastic spacer comes out also. I ended up cutting the spacer to 8-3/8" long which is taking about 3-5/8" off of it. Slide it all back together and rivet or use a self tapping screw to put crank mechanism back in and you are finished. I didnt have time to take a pic of the window open 5" due to a storm that popped up but I have a pic of it open 4-5/8" and that was cutting the spacer to 9-3/8" long.
BTW, if you want to remove the window, there is a pic of a screw at the top, unscrew that and the window slides right off
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Old 07-30-2019, 12:38 AM   #2
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THOR #12698
Thanks for the good information and pictures.
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Old 07-30-2019, 02:14 PM   #3
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Yeah, I hate that frameless window design. I used to have a class C with the regular sliding widows. These provided a lot more air flow and had decent screens. The frameless windows barely open, so they don't provide much airflow. Also, the screens are terrible -- they don't secure very well and fall out if bumped, and the plastic holding tabs get broken and lost. I guess people like the way these frameless windows look, but their functionality sucks.
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Old 07-30-2019, 02:38 PM   #4
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Old 07-30-2019, 04:25 PM   #5
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THOR #1620
Here is an even easier way to accomplish this after learning how to remove the windows. This took all of 3 minutes. Remove the end screw on top and slide the window out far enough to all one of the rollers at bottom window tp come out of slot. Pull the spacer out. I cut this one to an even 8” and slid back in and slid the window back in place making sure the bottom roller engages in slot. Put screw back in and you are finished. Window opens 5-1/4” in the one pic you can see you only need to slide window less than 5” to access the spacer.
PS: Actual time was 2 minutes 11secs including cutting the part to length.
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Old 07-31-2019, 03:28 AM   #6
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Wow, thats awesome. I will have to put this on my mods list.
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Old 08-01-2019, 08:34 PM   #7
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THOR #12231
So your removing the two screws on the top side of the window to allow the window to move enough to let the roller come out of the track?

So the window is actually detached at the top?

Is the window very heavy? Sound like one would have to be careful not to drop it.

This is one mod I can really use in the spring and fall.
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Old 08-01-2019, 09:08 PM   #8
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THOR #1620
Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
So your removing the two screws on the top side of the window to allow the window to move enough to let the roller come out of the track?

So the window is actually detached at the top?

Is the window very heavy? Sound like one would have to be careful not to drop it.

This is one mod I can really use in the spring and fall.
The window is like hooked, it wont fall off. You would have to slide it all the way off (window is not very heavy at all) if you actually wanted to take it off. I did my first one and then figured that wasnt necessary. So once the roller comes out of the slot just kind of lift it up to slide the spacer out, then reverse procedure. Literally 2 minutes after you do the first one.
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Old 08-01-2019, 10:08 PM   #9
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I'd sure like to see more pictures of how this all happens...
(I'm a "Fraidy-Cat"; when it comes to taking things apart...)
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Old 08-01-2019, 10:18 PM   #10
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Especially breakable glass...

(something DUCK TAPE can't fix)
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Old 08-01-2019, 10:27 PM   #11
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THOR #1620
Alright for you less than fearless! lol. Here is a video but it has not been edited and I had to film by myself so skip through where I drop the spacer and have to pick it up and also I was attempting to cut and hold the camera at the same time so that is useless watching but disassembly and reassembly you can see. Notice the whole video is only 2:18

https://youtu.be/LmmrchRwoH8

Here is a tip, if the screw seems to be stripped you have to use a small straight blade screw driver to try and push up on the bottom of the screw to get the threads to engage. They probably drive them in with screw guns. I had to do that on 2 screws, the rest were tight but came out
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Old 08-01-2019, 10:31 PM   #12
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Time to break out the popcorn, and watch a movie!

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1564698694
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Old 08-02-2019, 01:31 AM   #13
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THOR #1620
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post

Time to break out the popcorn, and watch a movie!

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1564698694
LOL, its like a laurel and hardy movie without laurel
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Old 08-02-2019, 10:52 AM   #14
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It showed me exactly what I wasn't able to visualize.
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Old 08-02-2019, 11:07 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
It showed me exactly what I wasn't able to visualize.
lol, well I guess sometimes a bad video can be helpful! Glad it helped Bob
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Old 08-02-2019, 11:44 AM   #16
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The video wasn't all that bad...
It's just not quite up to the same level as your mechanical skills: that's all!

But it'll get there!
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Old 08-02-2019, 05:10 PM   #17
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Ok, it make more sense seeing it. I assumed it was the lower half of the window that you were sliding out and were unscrewing from the inside (with the window open).

Is there calk or silcone covering the screws on top?

Can you just make the spacer two or thee inches wide to open this window like 7 or 8 inches? Or will that be too far and stress the crank arms or put pressure on the upper window were they join?

Thanks for the info. I will look at it this weekend.

I wonder if you can just pop out that spacer (with the window open) and reinstall once its cut? Or is the plactic too rigid?
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Old 08-02-2019, 07:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
Ok, it make more sense seeing it. I assumed it was the lower half of the window that you were sliding out and were unscrewing from the inside (with the window open).

Is there calk or silcone covering the screws on top?

Can you just make the spacer two or thee inches wide to open this window like 7 or 8 inches? Or will that be too far and stress the crank arms or put pressure on the upper window were they join?

Thanks for the info. I will look at it this weekend.

I wonder if you can just pop out that spacer (with the window open) and reinstall once its cut? Or is the plastic too rigid?
Making it 3" probably isnt a problem. You can always use the piece you cut off to put in and try it. There really is no stress opening the window it works nice and free. As for caulk, on my thor there was nothing covering the screw. Just remember if you cant back the screw out its because they ran it in tight and stripped the last thread, you will have to use something under the screw to push up to get the next thread to engage.
The plastic is very rigid, I thought maybe I could cut it in place and pull it out but that was going to involve way more effort and opportunity to break the window and severing a body part in the process lol.
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Old 08-03-2019, 02:14 PM   #19
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Hey, Thor293 - THANK YOU! Great mod as I can finally open most of my crank-out windows much wider now!

There is no way anyone could make your method any easier, by the way. The screw on the top of the window frame is simply a "stop" to keep the window from sliding out of the track. So no need for any concern over waterproofing, etc.

One thing I found is that the "skinny" window in my Windsport bedroom couldn't be modified. The window is narrow, so when the window is opened the crank arms are almost touching each other. (Pictures attached, comparing the wide and narrow windows when opened). So there is no spacer in the lower track that could be shortened. Too bad, but physics got in the way on this one!
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Old 08-05-2019, 05:54 PM   #20
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Ok, great. for the info. That makes sense...its like a set screw holding the window in place. No caulk needed.

This will be one of my mods when I have time this summer/ fall. I looked at mine the other day. Looks like I get about 4 inches of outward mobility. But 6 or 7 would be much better.... esp if you can get all of your windows to open that wide on a breezy day.
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