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Old 07-23-2018, 12:52 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 25.2
State: Georgia
Posts: 113
THOR #5927
Grab bar for Axis 25.2 shower

I have the RV back from the storage lot to do a couple of projects. The first one was to install a grab bar to make it a little easier to get in and out of the shower. It involved putting some backing inside the wall.

Here are a couple of shots of the grab bar and the backing inside the wall.

If anyone wants, I can write up a "blow-by-blow" of what was required.
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Old 07-23-2018, 01:29 AM   #2
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Gemini 24TX (Formerly)
State: California
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THOR #5821
I too added a grab bar to our shower. I mounted it on the outside wall, angled so both ends are anchored to studs. Its very solid and makes the shower much easier and safer to use. Also added a slide bar adjustable shower head mount, that required anchor plates behind the wall. Shower head is now adjustable up and down, can be angled up or down, or side to side and can be locked in any position.
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Old 12-15-2018, 01:13 AM   #3
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Model: ACE
State: Florida
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THOR #13520
BSexton,

Please send me the blow-by-blow of what was required and any lessons learned.
You can email me at mtodd656@gmail.com
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Old 12-18-2018, 10:24 PM   #4
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Axis 25.2
State: Georgia
Posts: 113
THOR #5927
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltodd1 View Post
BSexton,

Please send me the blow-by-blow of what was required and any lessons learned.
You can email me at mtodd656@gmail.com
Michael,
I'll just post what I can remember here so that other's can learn and comment.

It has been 5 months since I did this, so I'll see what I can remember. I also didn't see if which motor home you had in your profile. So, some of these items might be specific to the Axis/Vegas 25.2 (which is what I have).

I placed the grab bar on the interior wall. I couldn't find any studs to attach it to before I opened up the wall (and I'm pretty glad I didn't after opening up the wall). The studs in the walls were simply 2x2. It would have been pretty hard to sink more than one screw in each. So, I'm glad I put in some bracing.

So, for the 25.2, here were the basic steps:
  1. I had to remove the sliding door to get to the wall board off. This involved removing the door from the hangers. It works just like a sliding door in a house. I ended up also removing the track from the ceiling. I can't remember if that was necessary in the end, but I ended up doing it anyway.
  2. You also have to remove the pin that the bottom of the door slides on. It is attached to the wall.
  3. Then you can get to remove the wall board itself. I found that the corner bead was just attached with staples. So, you have to take your time and pry them off slowly. An itty-bitty cats paw was essential for this step. I took off the corner bead from the two outside corners.
  4. I ended up removing the wall board that covered the short end of the wall that was just the width of the studs. I can't remember if that was necessary or not. As I remember the corner bead was shaped like an "F". The space inbetween the top and middle of the "F" slid on to one of the boards and the bottom of the "F" covered the joint. So, depending on which way the "F" was pointing, this step my have been necessary.
  5. I was then able to pry off the wall board gently. It was just stapled on with very fine staples. This probably took the longest amount of time since I didn't want to damage the wall board. And, I didn't take the board completely off. It was sticking at the top, so I just left that attached and moved it out of the way.
  6. I was then able to install braces for the grab bar to be screwed in to. I did have to rabbit one end because there was a metal brace attached to the stud at the end of the wall. I also put a spacer between the braces--I'm not sure that this was necessary (I do tend to over engineer wood working projects). I then glued and screwed in the braces.
  7. Then, I installed the grab bar and siliconed the heck out of the screws and the covers.
  8. Reinstalled the wall board with a brad nailer and the corner beads.
  9. Reinstalled the slide post on the wall and track on the ceiling.
  10. Rehung the door. This is where I did find something I can pass on. There is a facia board in the bathroom that covered the track mechanism. I installed that board and then tried to rehang the door. It was near impossible. With the facia board in place, you couldn't reach the slide mechanisms to lock the door in place. After fighting with it for nearly 30 minutes, I finally took back down the facia and was able to rehang the door in just a few minutes.

I hope this helps. If you have any questions, just let me know.
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