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Old 11-06-2018, 08:04 PM   #1
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Induction Cooktop Retrofit

I know that there are a lot of portable units out there, but I'm curious whether anyone has taken the time to retrofit a double burner induction cooktop in the space originally occupied by the gas cooktop?


I'm looking at a couple of units that have the right dimensions to physically fit (24" x 20" opening), but hoping for some guidance ...
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Old 11-06-2018, 08:43 PM   #2
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The problem I see is all four unit induction cook-tops require 240 volts and 30 amps (dual 2,000 watt and dual 1,500 watt burners). It would not be a problem to rewire your coach with a 30 amp - 240 volt circuit with a sub panel to supply the coach, just like the typical house wiring. It would be expensive unless you do it yourself. Every coach I have seen uses a 2 burner, 1800 watt cook-top that uses a 20 amp - 120 volt circuit just like a roof top A/C. My guess would be, the carpentry to install a two burner cook-top would cost much less (including a new solid surface countertop) than a 240 volt conversion.
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Old 11-06-2018, 08:50 PM   #3
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Sorry if I caused any confusion, but I am looking at the 120v / dual burner configuration here ...
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Old 11-06-2018, 08:50 PM   #4
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I like my gas stove in my Axis. Dont need any power to operate.

But if I had a new RV I think it would be nice to have BOTH induction and gas burners like some are offering now. I dont think I would want induction only since while on the road or off the grid you would have to crank up the Genny to use it.

I would think a portable induction would be nice to use outside at a CG. I sometimes bring my old electic grill and use outside. Keeps the heat and smells outside.

But thats just me.
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:01 PM   #5
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Copy that ... Thanks for the input!
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:14 PM   #6
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We have a portable one. A single "burner". We rarely use the propane stove anymore--we rarely boondock where we don't have 120V available. "Rustic" for us means electricity only LOL.

Very happy with it and I'd love to replace the gas cooktop with a two burner induction one (running the genny to cook in a pinch wouldn't bother me that much as it is a rare occurrence).

The best part of the portable one is we can use it on a table next to the outside plug on the RV to cook the side while the "meat" is on the grill.
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:20 PM   #7
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Thanks JamieGeek! We're in the same place with the single burner countertop version. I installed a propane tap in one of the passenger side bays, so we bring out the Coleman if we're cooking with gas. I don't think we've turned on the inside burners in the last two years ...


Just trying to get a feel for who's done what and with what results ...
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:23 PM   #8
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Looking to do the same, which units are you considering....
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:28 PM   #9
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Seems like almost everyone makes a 24" unit, Dometic and Furrion included ... I'm favoring the latter at the moment ...


Have you selected a manufacturer / model yet?
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:52 PM   #10
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My 2018 THOR Siesta only came with the induction cook top. My previous 2016 Winnebago ERA had a 2 burner propane unit. So far I like the induction cook top. It is a different way of cooking since the pan heats so quickly and you need an induction style pan to use with it. You either have to be on shore power or the genny to run it. That is the only drawback.
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:54 PM   #11
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Thank you Sir! That's a small price to pay IMHO for a better way to cook ...
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:25 AM   #12
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Here's a video that pertains to induction vs propane and their webpage about the installation of an induction unit, albeit without the diy tutorial.


video- https://youtu.be/XmRy9s-41KY


installation- https://www.thefitrv.com/blog/induct...-list-updated/
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:09 PM   #13
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Thanks gnach!
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:22 PM   #14
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I would imagine one consideration also is 'where' to wire this 'new' device within your circuit/breaker box. I suppose it could use the same outlet as the microwave, though the wiring up to that outlet might be exposed.
With our Palazzo, the 33.3 model, there is a outlet under the booth seat, that feeds from under the kitchen cabinets, which might work. There is also an outlet just to the left of the stove, in each bunk, which is fed thru a chase hole under the rear of the bunks.

Either way, if you use an existing outlet, you'll then have to be cognizant that this 'large draw' appliance will now share that circuit with those devices, AND be on the INVERTER, which is probably not designed to handle the 'heat' load, unless you have more batteries.
Of course, that doesn't mean you 'have' to run it on the Inverter, but it WOULD give you that option, even off grid, with no shore power or generator running.
You could, of course, run a new circuit all the way back to the breaker panel, but then you'd have to decide what current breaker to replace it with. One idea would be the 'engine block heater' breaker, which we rarely, if ever, have used, though that would mean you'd have to be on shore or generator to power the cooktop.
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:31 PM   #15
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Thanks TurnerFam! Running an additional circuit just takes time and that I have at the moment. Most of the units that I've looked at top out at a 15 amp draw, so it's not that big a deal even off the grid ...
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:46 PM   #16
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I'm thinking that I would then try to keep it on a circuit within the Inverter's subpanel, which, if you coach is similar to mine, will be the far right 4) 15amp breakers in your panel, with the last 30amp being the 'incoming' power from the Inverter(it's run backwards since it is a separate power source to these several 15amp breakers, this is a custom panel design which provides the two 50amp rear power bars from the ATS, and this 'inverter' power bar for the outlets - essentially, an integrated 'sub panel')...
This way you 'can' still use it when off grid, if the situation requires it, at least for a short period.
It's similar to our coffee maker, when only on the inverter - it can handle it, but make sure the LBCO setting is set artificially LOW, such as 10.0, during it's heating cycle, or the Inverter will cut everything off - not fun. The LBCO will react after only 30seconds of 'low' battery voltage, whereas the AGS has to see low voltage for more than two CONTINUOUS minutes before it will kick on. When finished, turn the LBCO back up to 11.0 to 11.5 where it should probably normal be. It's just a backstop in case the AGS can't crank and recharge the batteries.

The main panel's far right 4) 15amp breakers serve ALL of your outlets in the coach, including the fridge, microwave, tvs, bedroom, etc.

If the cooktop comes with a standard 15amp male plug, then I would simply run a new 'extension' plug from one of the bunk outlets, or the lower booth outlet, that can then run under the kitchen cabinets and then simply provide an 'outlet' to plug the cooktop into. No 'raw' wiring, cutting, or junction box needed.
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Old 11-07-2018, 12:53 PM   #17
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Maybe I could trouble you to add a pic of your panel so we're all on the same page?
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:05 PM   #18
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I have a newer Chateau, and it has 2 gas burners and a single induction cooktop. The cooktop is a True Induction TI-1B:
https://www.amazon.com/True-Inductio...on+ti-1b&psc=1


The cooktop just drops into the opening, so you can easily remove it if you want to take it outside, but the receptacle it plugs into is under the sink so it's a bit of pain to get to that.


I like having both gas and induction options. We usually camp with electric service available, but not always.


I actually do most of my cooking using either a WeberQ grill or an electric skillet, and I don't use the RV stovetop much at all.
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:17 PM   #19
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THOR #4735
Exclamation

Features
A split 50/30 panel accepts — LEFT SIDE: dual 50 Amp main and up to 10 branch circuits — RIGHT SIDE: 30 Amp main and up to 4 branch circuits.

https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/ac...0-amp-240-vac/

this is the panel - as listed above, though the last picture below is of the 'base' model, not showing the additional 30amp power bar in the rear, otherwise it's very similar.

by the way - most would think that you'd have a central set of 50amp main breakers, but the way this panel was designed, in order to have the integrated Inverter 'sub panel' breakers, this box is configured more like your box at home. A 'top' set of main breakers, and each individual breaker is alternating between each 'side' of the 50amp service, which is why you see the FRONT AC next to the REAR AC, even though they are on different 'sides' of the service, etc.
Looking at it this way, I know that my FRONT AC, Inverter(CHARGER), and EngineBlock Heater, are all on the same side of service. While the REAR AC, the Water Heater(elec), and the 30amp INVERTER breaker, are all on the other side of the 50amp service.
Note: Thor probably doesn't provide the most accurate 'labeling' of these breakers, as the middle 'Inverter/Charger' breaker should really only read as 'CHARGER', and the far right breaker should only read as 'INVERTER', to make things clearer. Also, within the Inverter sub-breakers, the 'TV Recepts' is also a little confusing, as this is really for most of the outlets in the front of the coach, regardless of whether for the single TV up front, or all the outlets under the cabinets and next to the passenger seat, etc. It should probably better read 'Front outlets', and the other read as 'Rear outlets', instead of the hand written 'bedroom 15a'.
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:18 PM   #20
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Thanks jabrabu! I looked at those units, but we've found ourselves more often needing a second induction burner rather than a gas one ... Two induction burners plus gas would be too much for our rig I'm afraid ...


The ability to remove the induction unit and take it elsewhere is a nice touch though ...
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