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Old 09-22-2017, 03:23 AM   #21
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2017 Thor Vegas 25.2
State: Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captmetal View Post
don't use regular car jack stand, not strong enough
Got that covered. I have 2 12 ton bottle jacks and a pair of 6 ton jack stands all ready to git er done.

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Old 09-22-2017, 12:25 PM   #22
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Model: Axis 24.2
State: Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Question:
With a 2017 E-450 chasis under my Outlaw: I'm given two choices
For the fronts: Either 500, or 1,000 pound capacity at 50% compression
For the rear: Either 1,500, or 2,800 pound capacity at 50% compression.

With my rig carrying a 1,200 pound trike in the garage (Plus all of the rest of our stuff!); would you suggest that I just go ahead, and purchase the heavier duty versions?
Thanks!
Consider weighing your rig! Make a choice based on your particular vehicle load characteristics.
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Old 09-22-2017, 12:59 PM   #23
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Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TyCreek View Post
Consider weighing your rig! Make a choice based on your particular vehicle load characteristics.
I haven't had the corners of the rig weighed; but I know the overall weight.
That's 12,054 pounds
With a 14,500 GVWR: that leaves us with 2,446 pounds to play with.
The bike is 1,200 pounds...
1,246 left
A full tank of fuel with reach almost 450 pounds...
796...
The Missus and I weigh just about 360 together (I'm NOT saying how that weight is contributed by us! )
436...
If we carry ANYTHING in any of the tanks: we'll be over the GVWR before even loading the wine bottles, and marshmallows!

Clearly; the rig needs a helping hand...
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Old 09-22-2017, 06:17 PM   #24
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FWIW ... I put the HD on the front of my Axis and I'm glad I did as they were NOT overkill. The choice of none, standard or heavy is best determined by individual axle loading considerations, not total weight.

I highly recommend loading everything up including full LP, Gas, Water and people with gear for a visit to a truck scale. Individual axle numbers are the next best thing to corner weight values. Once you know your axle weight you can very roughly get a hint at side to side by measuring the distance between each bump-stop.
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Old 09-24-2017, 04:00 PM   #25
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I installed them on my 450 chassis. Easy job as long as you have the proper jacks and stands (I have 12 ton). I jacked up on the frame behind the front suspension and placed the jack stand on the frame in front of the suspension. Lowered the jack so the stand is taking a some weight. Then I pushed hard on the rig to see if anything gives.

I liked the results in handling.
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Old 09-24-2017, 05:42 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
I haven't had the corners of the rig weighed; but I know the overall weight.
That's 12,054 pounds
With a 14,500 GVWR: that leaves us with 2,446 pounds to play with.
The bike is 1,200 pounds...
1,246 left
A full tank of fuel with reach almost 450 pounds...
796...
The Missus and I weigh just about 360 together (I'm NOT saying how that weight is contributed by us! )
436...
If we carry ANYTHING in any of the tanks: we'll be over the GVWR before even loading the wine bottles, and marshmallows!

Clearly; the rig needs a helping hand...
Be careful when assuming that you can load an E-450 to maximum Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of 14,500 pounds.

The E-450 is unusual in that the maximum combined axle ratings is only 14,600 pounds, which means that to get to 14,500, each axle has to be very close to its own maximum. That doesn't leave much room for variations in typical vehicle weight distributions.

For "example", if after you load your bike, it turns out the front axle is at 4,500 pounds (versus 5,000 maximum rating), then loading the rear axle to its maximum will still leave you quite short of the 14,500-pounds you are assuming.

As mentioned by others, you really need at the very least the axle weights. This is much more critical on E-450s than on E-350s which are more forgiving in this respect (granted, based on only 12,500 pound GVWR).
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:55 PM   #27
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I finally got the SumoSprings installed on the front of my Vegas. The job would have been a lot easier if I was 20 years younger and 80 pounds lighter.

The difference in the ride is noticeable, but subtle. It stopped the wallowing when pulling up the curb onto the driveway and cut down on the lean around corners. I'm happy with the results
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:22 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Chance View Post
Be careful when assuming that you can load an E-450 to maximum Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of 14,500 pounds.

The E-450 is unusual in that the maximum combined axle ratings is only 14,600 pounds, which means that to get to 14,500, each axle has to be very close to its own maximum. That doesn't leave much room for variations in typical vehicle weight distributions.

For "example", if after you load your bike, it turns out the front axle is at 4,500 pounds (versus 5,000 maximum rating), then loading the rear axle to its maximum will still leave you quite short of the 14,500-pounds you are assuming.

As mentioned by others, you really need at the very least the axle weights. This is much more critical on E-450s than on E-350s which are more forgiving in this respect (granted, based on only 12,500 pound GVWR).
That doesn't sound good...
Time to look for beefier axles?
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Old 09-24-2017, 11:52 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
That doesn't sound good...
Time to look for beefier axles?

New axles are not a practical option for most owners. The front Twin I-Beam is rated at 5,000 pounds, and rear axle on E-450 is rated at 9,600 pounds. For all practical purposes you're stuck with those limits. Hence why actual axle weights on certified scale is so important.
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Old 09-25-2017, 12:29 PM   #30
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Got it...
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Old 09-26-2017, 01:06 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by jb1911 View Post
The one for the front end of my Vegas looks like this:



No drilling, just screw it in.
I just received them for a 2017 Vegas 25.3. Mine are the same except for a nut and washer. The instructions tell me to insert the stud into the hole and use the nut and washer. The problem is that on the drivers side there is no access to remove the old nut (got late so I am picking it back up in the am). Are the original nuts soldered in and therefore I just screw in the stud?
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Old 09-26-2017, 03:04 AM   #32
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There are boss nuts welded inside the frame. Just screw them in, you don't need the nuts. I used blue loctite ... lots of it.
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Old 09-26-2017, 03:45 AM   #33
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That makes it easy.
Thank you
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:12 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by jb1911 View Post
The ones for the E350 chassis screw into the one hole that you unscrew the bump stops from, and I'm only doing the front. Unscrew the bump stop (one bolt) and screw the SumoSpring into that hole. Seems kind of simple. Thanks for the advice and concern, but I'm waiting to hear from someone with an E350 chassis. I have a local Ford dealer with a large truck bay as a fall back if it looks too hard or dangerous.


Put on my E350(front). Easy as pie. Just need to raise vehicle 3 inches or so. They make a big difference. Remove original bump stop and screw in SumoSpring in same hole. Nut is welded on frame. You don't need nut that came with. 13mm deep socket.
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Old 09-26-2017, 01:26 PM   #35
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The bolt head on my original bump stops was 10mm.
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:05 PM   #36
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I just finished installing them on My 2017 Vegas 25.2
The installation takes leas time than rounding everything up.

As directed, jack the frame up until the front tire clears the floor ( or almost). I prefer to jack up one side at a time, it is safer. Place a jack stand under the frame for safety. Using a 10 mm Deep socket and 3/8 ratchet in the bottom of the existing bump stop, unscrew the existing stop. It comes out easily. Take the nut and washer off the sumo spring, they wont be used. Simply screw the spring into the existing hole hand tight.

Repeat with the other side. Takes less than 20 minutes.

The nut is not needed and the Sumo spring cannot back out because it is in constant contact with the axle.
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Old 09-26-2017, 07:59 PM   #37
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2017 Thor Vegas 25.2
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THOR #7993
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whirnot View Post
I just finished installing them on My 2017 Vegas 25.2
The installation takes leas time than rounding everything up.

As directed, jack the frame up until the front tire clears the floor ( or almost). I prefer to jack up one side at a time, it is safer. Place a jack stand under the frame for safety. Using a 10 mm Deep socket and 3/8 ratchet in the bottom of the existing bump stop, unscrew the existing stop. It comes out easily. Take the nut and washer off the sumo spring, they wont be used. Simply screw the spring into the existing hole hand tight.

Repeat with the other side. Takes less than 20 minutes.

The nut is not needed and the Sumo spring cannot back out because it is in constant contact with the axle.
This is true, but being a retired millwright with 38 years experience I used the blue Loctite. I've seen plenty of things happen that shouldn't have. Great post BTW.
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Old 09-26-2017, 11:58 PM   #38
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I installed them today as well. It was pretty simple once I ignored the included instructions. I took jb1911's advice and used blue Loctite. We are leaving for N. Carolina Thursday morning from Texas. I will let you all know how they do.
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Old 10-02-2017, 03:04 AM   #39
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Model: 2019 Vegas 25.6
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Do you have to have a front end alignment done after you install sumo springs on the front springs only? Do they raise the front end any at all?
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Old 10-02-2017, 03:07 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by hudson0231 View Post
Do you have to have an alignment done after you install sumo springs on the front springs only? Do they raise the front end any at all?


No they don't raise it. They rest against axle so when you hit bumps or turn they start compressing.
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