Jerry's Hurricane mods

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Formia1

We bought a 2017 Hurricane 29M a few weeks ago and yes, the polarity of the charging station feed wires was reversed. We have low flow in the aerator section of the kitchen pull down head (full flow in spray nozzles). Aerator is non removable and it appears the head is too. Has anyone removed the head?

As common of a problem as that is, you'd think, If Thor actually perused this forum, that this assembly problem would have been taken care of by now.

[thor293]

Hi guys, since a lot of us now have the full flush mount windows, if you want them to crank out further than the 3" they do now go to this thread, its easier than typing all that over. This works on the full windows, dont know if the Split windows can be modified without taking the crank loose which isnt a big deal but you have to drill out the 2 rivets that hold the crank. Hope some of you find it useful. http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f27...her-18443.html

[Chuck and Mary Ann]

Originally Posted by 04fxsts

Had the water fill thing happen to me also. Tried turning the flow down figured a small stream would work better, wrong. Friend said to try using full pressure on the hose and it works fine. Have been doing it this way ever since and have had no problems. Jim.

Double the valve that you use to switch from dry Camping to city water to tank fill, my valve stuck- make sure the city water and pump are shut off to reduce pressure on the valve. Mine went the other way and overfilled the tank after I switched to city water, overflow hose worked perfectly thank goodness or I could have ruptured the tank. This is on a Palazzo 36.1. You might also need to check the valve as for mislabeled or possible hoses connected to the wrong vale opening.

[upnyfolks]

Originally Posted by Formia1

We bought a 2017 Hurricane 29M a few weeks ago and yes, the polarity of the charging station feed wires was reversed. We have low flow in the aerator section of the kitchen pull down head (full flow in spray nozzles). Aerator is non removable and it appears the head is too. Has anyone removed the head?

We had low water flow in the kitchen as well, turned out the pull out sprayer hose under the sink would get kinked where the weight was attached to the hose. loosened the weight and re-positioned it and problem solved.

[Chuck and Mary Ann]

Originally Posted by upnyfolks

We had low water flow in the kitchen as well, turned out the pull out sprayer hose under the sink would get kinked where the weight was attached to the hose. loosened the weight and re-positioned it and problem solved.

Yes, that happened to me in our Palazzo. Moved the sprayer weight and flow returned to normal.

[DinoC41]

Originally Posted by thor293

Hi guys, since a lot of us now have the full flush mount windows, if you want them to crank out further than the 3" they do now go to this thread, its easier than typing all that over. This works on the full windows, dont know if the Split windows can be modified without taking the crank loose which isnt a big deal but you have to drill out the 2 rivets that hold the crank. Hope some of you find it useful. http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f27...her-18443.html

I completed this mod on the kitchen and bedroom frameless windows but our 2017 Windsport 29M's remaining windows (dining and living rooms) are the "split" frameless versions and I am not ready to drill out the rivets holding the window cranks at this time!

[thor293]

Originally Posted by DinoC41

I completed this mod on the kitchen and bedroom frameless windows but our 2017 Windsport 29M's remaining windows (dining and living rooms) are the "split" frameless versions and I am not ready to drill out the rivets holding the window cranks at this time!

You can save that for that day you are feeling froggy! Lol. Glad it helped Dino

[dave.irwin.59@gmail.com]

Power Options from Roof (2018 Hurricane 29M)

I am looking to purchase and install a ToGo Roadlink C2 from Winegard, along with the associated AT&T data plan.

I have never installed any equipement on the roof before and so never had to get wiring into the rig. I have no issues with the needed holes and sealing, but I would like some input on the best wire route to take.

I would need a 12V DC source and was thinking about going through the roof and coming into the control panel above the door.

Looking for any suggestions from those with a 29M that have done this before.

[Amespa]

Camping world had...not sure if it’s still on..any installation $59 of ANYTHING!! I saved a ton. Even installation of tow vehicle equipment!!!

[dave.irwin.59@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Amespa

Camping world had...not sure if it’s still on..any installation $59 of ANYTHING!! I saved a ton. Even installation of tow vehicle equipment!!!

I’m looking at this as a DYI effort. My hair would have to be on fire for me to ever consider another trip to Canping World for service. I have used them twice for some basic warranty stuff and swore never again. I saw a post the other day where CW installed a guys fan hood covers with the open scoop end facing forward.

[pavemike]

Originally Posted by dave.irwin.59@gmail.com

Power Options from Roof (2018 Hurricane 29M)

I am looking to purchase and install a ToGo Roadlink C2 from Winegard, along with the associated AT&T data plan.

I have never installed any equipement on the roof before and so never had to get wiring into the rig. I have no issues with the needed holes and sealing, but I would like some input on the best wire route to take.

I would need a 12V DC source and was thinking about going through the roof and coming into the control panel above the door.

Looking for any suggestions from those with a 29M that have done this before.

I am installing my TOGO tomorrow. I would suggest, if you haven't already, go on Thor Motor Coach site, owner's resources and download the schematics. By measuring from the 0 point in the diagram, you can better judge where to drill holes that will meet your desired location. BUT, before you install, take it inside and wire it to the 12v source, set it up using the 2 apps needed, purchase data and test it out. Wouldn't want to install, seal hook up and then determine it's a bad unit. This video may help.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...A&&FORM=VRDGAR

[dave.irwin.59@gmail.com]

Good idea on the pre-install test. I have already seen the video. Kind of what convinced me in the first place.

Let us know how your install goes. (Maybe some pics too)

[halfprice]

I would have the wires run into the over head cabinet with the DVD player. Power is there ready to go

You can drill up from inside the cabinet to make a pilot hole

Good luck with the install

Jerry

[pavemike]

Just remember that the TOGO needs to be 24" from the front, 12" away from other obstructions and, very important, the power cord must go towards the rear. So the unit needs to be forward of where the cord goes into the roof but still be away from the front end. Hopefully, yours will meet those specs to enter where Jerry suggested. Good luck!

[Wrpt58]

Originally Posted by halfprice

That's what's on mine. 1" wood blocks fiberglass to the end cap. Only problem two screws into the block and two below the block

Plus the ladder isn't real strong imo. I think they could be made much better

Jerry

Looking at these ladder posts, I have to agree with the consensus that they aren't very stout. More "ornamental" than utilitarian. I wonder if we could remove these and design some brackets to be used with an extension ladder? Haven't given it much thought, but believe I could come up with something.

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Wrpt58

Looking at these ladder posts, I have to agree with the consensus that they aren't very stout. More "ornamental" than utilitarian. I wonder if we could remove these and design some brackets to be used with an extension ladder? Haven't given it much thought, but believe I could come up with something.

What I do now is put my little giant ladder up to the rv ladder Climb up the little giant but use the rv ladder top handles to get on the roof. No more weight on the ladder

I also bought a telescopic ladder that I will keep in the back of the jeep on trips just in case I need on the roof.

Jerry

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Wrpt58

Looking at these ladder posts, I have to agree with the consensus that they aren't very stout. More "ornamental" than utilitarian. I wonder if we could remove these and design some brackets to be used with an extension ladder? Haven't given it much thought, but believe I could come up with something.

My buddy Dave, Sundance, just bought a new Tuscany. No ladder at all.

[Wrpt58]

Originally Posted by halfprice

My buddy Dave, Sundance, just bought a new Tuscany. No ladder at all.

Yep, I'm thinking that being on the roof is not going to be a regular activity. That's a long way to drop and the sudden stop could hurt!
I like the idea of the telescopic ladder. I might just copy that one.

[jannnda]

Originally Posted by Wrpt58

Yep, I'm thinking that being on the roof is not going to be a regular activity. That's a long way to drop and the sudden stop could hurt!

I like the idea of the telescopic ladder. I might just copy that one.

I got a telescopic ladder and use it just like Jerry when I need to get up on the roof. Much easier.

[rmblaster]

Originally Posted by halfprice

I also bought a telescopic ladder that I will keep in the back of the jeep on trips just in case I need on the roof.

Jerry

Jerry whats the weight capacity of your telescoping ladder

Richard