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Old 07-09-2018, 06:49 PM   #1
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Reject more Roof heat with my tips

Two Tips to reject roof heat inside the RV.

While I was insuating my AC unit on the roof to reject heat + to keep in cold air in I touched the black colored Max Air vent covers and they were very hot to the touch.

First tip: I removed these covers (4 pins hold them) and I took some of my left over Dynomat insulation and put it directly to the plastic vent covers (the part that pops up an down when you crank them). This not only rejected a ton of heat, it deadened that plastic hollow sound they use to make while raising and lowering and blocked what little light would shine in with my Max Air vent covered on. I no longer have to use my foam inserts to reject heat and its cool to the touch on the inside areas around the vent. Im sure it makes my AC work much better.

The 2nd tip: I used my clear Cermic window tint "Free sample" I had on hand and installed inbetween the inner and outer shower skylight - but I had to use some spray adhesive on the corners to hold it down. It looks like it did before and this made a huge difference in the bathroom heat. I left the bathroom roof vent alone since it lets in a ton of light when needed (I just use one of my foam vent covers to block heat). But I might use the Dynomat on it at a latter date. Now I dont close the bathroom door to keep it from heating up the RV in the summertime and Im sure it will help with UV rays deteriorating that pastics and wood in that area.
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Old 07-11-2018, 03:43 PM   #2
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Im surprised no one replied to this post. LOL. 114 views! I thought I had some good ideas and I know they work well....esp the bathroom skylight....its like 10 deg cooler in the summertime now. Perhaps I need to post some pics. I will climb on the roof this weekend and take some.
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Old 07-11-2018, 04:03 PM   #3
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Folks were probably busy writing them down.

But for all of your hard work and research:




And I still dig the looks of your custom grill.
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Old 07-11-2018, 04:18 PM   #4
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Thanks, I needed that. LOL. I been working on all the ways to reject heat (or insulate in genveral) and quiet down the RV inside. I have a few more tricks of tool box but they are not as good as these so im hesitant to posting them at all. I think I need to take more pictures each step of the way so I can post later but most of my mods are done already.
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Old 07-11-2018, 04:39 PM   #5
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I would guess a few other members including myself are out working on some of your tips as they are quite good and appreciated.
I am particularly interested in your bathroom sky light mod and if you have some pics that would be helpful. I have a piece of foil backed foam board I use there now, but it cuts down on the light a good bit in the bathroom. If the window tint works good without knocking a good bit of the light out, I would go for that mod
I also checked the AC thermistor and found that mine was already about 4" inches up from the frame. Have never had any problem keeping coach cooled so far except when my transfer switch decided to melt down a year or so ago.
I probably should not have said that.

Anyway, thanks for posting the tips as that is what this forum is all about passing along helpful info.
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Old 07-11-2018, 04:45 PM   #6
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http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1531327528
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Old 07-11-2018, 05:44 PM   #7
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Sometimes I don't take time to respond, I just go out and do.
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:46 PM   #8
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Some really good ideas presented here!

We did check the AC thermistor and it was about 4" up but we moved it up a little anyway. We have had the reflective/thermal pillows for the vents in the bathrooms and the main kitchen fan and use them in both summer and winter. We have sheets of Reflectix for use in the cab but they do keep the window area very warm (ok, HOT!) and we would like to find something for the front cab area to keep the heat OUT... so we will probably look at MagneShades or something similar.
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:52 PM   #9
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Thanks for the replys. I will take some pictures on what I can but most of my mods are already done. The skylight was easy, Just remove the 15 or screws (from inside your shower of coarse) with your power drill, drop cover down, clean it, put any window tint over the plastic like your tinting a regular window. On mine the skylight is kinda frosted from factory so if you have bubble you wont even notice them (the ceramic works best IMO - so go to your tint shop and get some free samples).

I think I also used some leftover "fost king" around the white plastic tub part, reinstall and it looks like factory but with 50% (or more) less heat!! Plus it bocks the UV rays. I used the clear tint on mine (That what I had for a sample) but the darker tints will block more heat - but also more light.
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Old 07-15-2018, 01:49 PM   #10
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A few pictures. It looks like I used "Fat Mat" not "Dynomat". Same thing except Fat Mat was a little cheaper.
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Old 07-15-2018, 01:52 PM   #11
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That last pic was teh bathroom vent which I have NOT touched yet. It has a diff cover to let more light in plus you would be able to see the Fat mat under the cover. I might change my mind later.

Here is inside the shower.... just removed the screws and adhear your window tint to the top the replace cover. One reinsalled you cant even tell it was touched but you sure can feel the temp difference.
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Old 07-15-2018, 01:56 PM   #12
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