Vegas 6 Way Power Seat upgrade

[JoeDS]

Try this place



https://www.rvandvansurplus.com/5-12...tal_p_218.html
Their base is 7". Might just try the pedestal alone to lower your seat. Pretty simple to do.



Also the pedestal you mentioned is on Amazon for 149 + $16 for shipping. 7.5 inches is pretty close . Would only have to drill 3 holes and an over sized washer on those 3.

Originally Posted by BSexton

Here are my notes from when I was researching the project. This was the other vendors that I was considering ordering the parts from.

Shop4Seats.com
• 6-way power swivel stack $499 each
• Shipping is $51.25
• Total: $1049.25
• 3 week lead time

DiscountVanTruck.com
• 6-way Power bases - $499 each
• Shipping $122
• Total $1120
• In stock

Other possibilities:
Braddandhall.com power $395 base $85
Coachsupplydirect.com power $385 base $75

[JimmyZ]

I see it's an older post but have a question:

Did you just run a hot wire from the battery and put a fuse holder in it? Or how did you run the pwer to the seats? I'm only going to install a power seat base on the driver side of mine next week. Just wondering how you wired yours? You want the seat to have power all the time, not just when key in on. Right?

[ducksface]

It's always hot on cars because the key can't be reached by tall folks if the shorty left the seat all the way forward. It's your choice on the rv.

What base are you using?
I'm using GM 6 way bases.
$20 at wrecking yards. 1961 through about 2005, they're all essentially the same.
Almost a universal fit on any seat.
(I had these from another project. There are more complicated adjustable seats mechanisms for the same price.)

I had a 16way lexus seat I tore up for the motors and gears.
I paid $30 at a wrecking yard.

[JoeDS]

Originally Posted by JimmyZ

I see it's an older post but have a question:

Did you just run a hot wire from the battery and put a fuse holder in it? Or how did you run the pwer to the seats? I'm only going to install a power seat base on the driver side of mine next week. Just wondering how you wired yours? You want the seat to have power all the time, not just when key in on. Right?

Used 2 wires each fused from upfront off the Bird unit. Yes it hot all the time which is ok by me. It also not related to anything else. Used 3/8 " split wire loom tubing for protection. The Bird or the 100 amp relay in the engine comparment is easy to get to and has a lug nut for easy attachment.

[JimmyZ]

What's "the Bird unit"?

[JoeDS]

Originally Posted by JimmyZ

What's "the Bird unit"?

Should actually be spelled B.I.R.D. (also referred to BIM system)



The Bi‐directional Isolator Relay Delay or B.I.R.D.® is a core piece of DC Managment Systems that
includes both a coach and a chassis battery. Its has 3 primary functions


1) Bridging two battery banks together when a charging source is present from either one.
2) Isolating the batteries when the charging source is removed or when both battery banks are
fully charged.
3) Providing aux start power when the chassis battery is low and unable to start the vehicle.


Every coach has a different wiring approach. Usually somewhere under the "hood" you will find large cables going between the coach and chassis batteries. In between all of this you will usually find a large 100 Amp circuit breaker and another battery charge monitoring device BIM. Mine looks like this


My understanding of its function is it allows either the chassis alternator to charge the coach battery or the coach battery charger to charge the engine battery which every way is appropriate.


Hope that helps. Im sure others will respond and perhaps explain it better.

[JoeDS]

Here is the web address of the company that makes "all things" around battery charging monitoring. Somewhere they will likely have your device.



https://intellitec.com/products/

[BSexton]

Originally Posted by JimmyZ

I see it's an older post but have a question:

Did you just run a hot wire from the battery and put a fuse holder in it? Or how did you run the pwer to the seats? I'm only going to install a power seat base on the driver side of mine next week. Just wondering how you wired yours? You want the seat to have power all the time, not just when key in on. Right?

That’s exactly what I did. I ran an appropriately size wire from the dash, through the firewall and down to a post near the battery. I think I actually tied in to the solenoid for the emergency start on the chassis battery size. I put an inline fuse size from the instructions on the power seat base. Then I ran the wire under the carpet to the seat base locations.

It wasn’t the most elegant solution, but it works.

I can say now that I have a couple of years, this was the biggest impact changes I made so far on the RV. I’m not completely wore out after a day for 450 miles.

Oh, BTW, I also added a few spacers on the front bolts of the chairs to give them a little more slope to the back.

[ducksface]

The spacers on the front bolts saved me about $3,500.
I was swapping out those miserable seats for some King Ranch seats.
The spacers made the Thor seats as comfortable as we need.


A hint:
When adding your power seat, mount is as far FORWARD as you can stand it to be.
Because
When you rotate the seats(leave your wiring long enough) to use them as living room seats, you have to rotate a bit THEN MOVE THE SEAT TO ITS MOST FORWARD POSITION so it will wedge past the steering wheel.
An added inch and the seat will spin freely without interference.

[Hugh.vines@att.net]

Ducks face, how many washers, what size and did you put them on both seats or just the passenger seat. Thanks

[ducksface]

I put them on both seats.
I think I added 3/4" height using washers.
Its one wrench and 15 minutes. I didnt even take the sea off.

A WORLD of difference.

But
A power seat will lift it anyway so if youre adding a lowet seat you won't need the spacers.