I want to start a new thread about nothing, and let it run... - Page 5

Bob Denman · 10-07-2019, 07:43 PM

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1570477420

ducksface · 10-08-2019, 01:12 AM

A major source of minor discontent was an intermittent squeak from the front end. Very loud, like sway bar bushing loud and seemed to follow the sway bar movements.
It took a while to find it.

The kydex plastic grained texture frame that surrounds the radiator and holds the opening end of the ac vent tubes was rubbing in the upper right corner. You'll know if yours is rubbing due to a shiny spot on the offending metal. Mine was a tiny spot, 1/4" in diameter.

Fixed the air leaks between the kydex and the radiator frame by using foam tape. It'll be covered with aluminum angle when I finish the shroud.

I'm working on a full front shroud that ties the radiator to the grille opening disallowing air into the fender wells from the grill.

Screwed the top of the kydex to the radiator frame while I was in there. It flopped like a fish, now it doesn't. Required a special tool to get in there. It's the first pic showing two screws I now have, and didn't before

Picture is the tool I used to access the hatefully tight places with flathead #2 self tappers.
The tool is a shortened version of one with the same head at a big box store.

Middle pic is sideways. Rotate 90 clockwise. It's the upper right, passenger side, of the kydex frame.

gnach · 10-10-2019, 02:44 PM

ducksface- I'm intrigued. What's your goal with the shroud and wheel well liners (right?)?

ducksface · 10-10-2019, 02:57 PM

The liners will allow me to put lots of insulation behind them between the tire and the front seats.
It will also keep debris and hate and discontent from being thrown into dark recesses against the body.

The radiator work is to funnel air where it should go instead of raising a hellish noise as it tries to find its way out of the open wheel well and back buffer against the hood and front fenders.
It might be $150 and 15 hours in vain, but I find no one has posted about either modification in a way that their words have much value, so... I'm going to do it, it'll work or won't, and we'll all have an example and numbers and facts to decide if it had value.

The fender wells are me considering functionality of fender wells, and except for MotorHomes, they are put on even the lowly yaris and Yugo. The radiator is speculation on my part based on almost every vehicle having a radiator shroud...except some class a.

The punchline is:
I used to be a fairly renowned restorer of cars. I don't do that anymore and have no interest in the slightest. So the modification of the MotorHome is sparking some old and forgotten slightly fun things that I used to do.
The difference between MotorHome and an overly restored seldom to be driven turd is my rv rear defroster switch needn't be canted by 3° to make it proof the vehicle was built in Van Nuys instead of Michigan. I think the front fender wells are from a silverado, the heavy Guage steel rears(hopefully they will contain a tire blowout so it doesn't burst a full black tank) are from a 1967 Pontiac Executive...I'm loving that.

We absolutely positively STOLE the 24.1. The money put aside for the unit will pay for fuel and mods for a lifetime.

I get the best of all worlds:

The Floorplan I wanted but wasn't talented or educated enough to know of.

An entry level vehicle that I won't financially slay myself by adding 4wd and other silliness.

A new, and for now, semi-interesting hobby-esque involvement in a spin off of old dead passions.

So much for someone pretty bored and jaded to learn.

ducksface · 10-12-2019, 10:36 PM

I'm sittiing on my considerable ass in the garage.
I've cleaned out the black tank, tested my new macerator switch and all went well.
It's time to drill holes in the black tank to install two tornados, and man, I'm just not wanting to do it.
I think I'm going to put them on a "y" garden hose connector so I can select or use both at once and it'll allow me to turn off the y valves to make sure nothing gets out of the tank.

I got them used on amazon for 12 bucks each so I ordered two. I decided the gray tank needing one wasn't a real thing, so I'll do a cross fire using two on the black tank.
I hooked one up to the garden hose in the yard. I'm not impressed with the scrubbing power. But I can fill the tank without running a hose inside the rv when it's flushing time.
And it's just two holes... If I'd only get off my ass and do it.

ducksface · 10-12-2019, 10:47 PM

Fenderwells
Preliminary fit and part numbers. I think they were 38 bucks each, shipped.
I've been saying they're from a silverado. The part number tag says ram 1500. No reason, I just bought one to see what's what, and it fit so I ordered the other side.
They're hdpe and weight three pounds or less each.
I'm going to try to get them rhinoliner'd before final install. No real reason other than I can.

Oddly, the shock tower cutouts line up and I doubt I'll trim an ounce off of either side for a perfect fit.

I'll do a seperate thread on the install and insulation.

ducksface · 10-13-2019, 12:18 AM

To keep from having to cut holes in the black tank, I progressed on another project.
I wanted to add the pictured muffler to the generator. It's from a polaris of some sort, beautifully made and heavy.
I checked decibels at head on, 45 right and 45 left.
Installed the muffler.
Checked head on, 45 right, 45 left.
One decibel lower at angle, two head on.
All at a lousy two feet.

I suspected some of the the damn onan 4000qt noise was that miraculously 1865 railroad technology fan they use, I just didn't think it was ALL the noise.

So, I'm back to tearing down the generator, milling that fan to nothingness and seeing how that works out. But I'll try some baffles first. At least I can put the muffler project to bed.

DocMike · 10-13-2019, 11:42 AM

Duckface,
I installed a Tornado as high up and to the inside on the rear of the black tank as possible. I ran the water line into the storage bay containing all the sewer lines, added an anti-suck back valve, a quick disconnect and using a "y" splitter at the campsite water source I bypass my pressure reduction valve going into the RV. This gives full water pressure into the Tornado and at sites that have high water pressure and you can hear the Tornado screaming and scrubbing away. With two rinse cycles - each using 2 oz of Dawn down the toilet - the last rinse is mostly bubbles and very clear.

Keep us posted on the dual Tornado idea, never thought of trying that.

DocMike

ducksface · 10-13-2019, 03:12 PM

Thanks for the tornado advice.
Last night it dawned on me I don't have to use those little clear hoses they give you and that I can use regular garden hose cut to length.

I planned on running it to where you did, but I couldn't come up with the length needed.

I'm trying to visualize the cutting paths of the water stream.
Can't decide both on the back where you mounted it, front and back, or back and side.
I'm sure it won't matter. You said your back alone works perfectly, I'm only installing the second because I have it and it's just a few holes.....

ducksface · 10-14-2019, 12:29 AM

It won't look like much to you, but this battery mockup is a major step for me.
I'll now start crawling around under the rv to look for a place to stash up to twelve 6v batteries. (I gave away two golf carts and kept the good batteries and 1/0 cables)
Probably/hopefully only six of them and I'll run out of space. We travel very light and no tow'd so weight isn't a major factor.
If I do get the six installed and stop there, I'll have six to trade off to someone.

My light fabrication/layout table.
That's a roll of 4x1250ft(?) of kraft paper.
The table is 49x96 (4+x8ft)
Paper is held with the free harbor freight magnet bars.
I can cover that table many many times with that roll. It allows me to write dimensions and layout things like that battery box.
I'm going to suggest a roll of that paper and a homemade reel to anyone with a work table.
Spray paint, glue, hot glue, scribble, it's perfect and a new cover takes 45 seconds.

ducksface · 10-15-2019, 02:58 AM

I bought these today.
I'm going to try one of them on the inside door lock. Not the twist lock, that pole handle lock.

I think I can put this actuator right on that little handle. If it works(I'm pretty sure it will) I'll order a four door set with remote controls and use the other actuator on the outside bin doors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CZ...b_b_prod_image

TerryJames · 10-15-2019, 03:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ducksface

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004H...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Installed these today(mostly)
They came with 4 Guage cables. In the middle of sizing and crimping I rembered I had pre-built pro crimped 1/0 cables I kept from the golf carts I gave away(this is why I have 12 six volt batteries available for upgrade to the Thor). I am now undoing what little I had done on this remote terminal.

I have had to jump the 24.1 in the past.
It was easy to hook jumper cables up to the house battery(they were dead also, lucky me), hit the emergency start button, and start the v10.
But these on the chassis battery, and mounted under the hood, will make me feel better(and now I can jump others without dicking with the house batteries.

Also, I looked where the chassis battery goes. I think there's room for two of them in there.
I won't do it, I'd put one in front of the radiator first....

Like mine too - Haven't had to use the terminals yet ... but glad they're ready
Thor Forums - View Single Post - Dead Coach Battery and No help from Emerg Start?

ducksface · 10-15-2019, 09:47 PM

$39 and 15 minutes later...we're digital now(but still no two speed fan, not particularly wanted, but still.... )
A direct replacement clear down to the stripped holes in the fiberboard wall.
We'll call it an accurate temperature reading.
ALWAYS TAKE PICTURES.

ducksface · 10-15-2019, 10:31 PM

If you smell popcorn, be alarmed.

ducksface · 10-16-2019, 12:54 AM

The spare wiper blades were mega-pissing-me-off trying to store them.
Look where they fit like a glove. I'll never move them again until they are needed.
It's the little things that make things happy.

ducksface · 10-17-2019, 04:23 AM

I found my proofs from post 29, the tail lights.

Lux Before at 24 inches
Lux After at 24 inches
Old and new side by side demonstration of led and reflector fix.

I try pretty hard to post proofs when I do something.
That one had been bothering me that I hadn't proofed it.
Found it when cleaning out the phone pics.

ducksface · 10-17-2019, 06:57 PM

Cheap mod I forgot about until replacing batteries in it today.

The big temp readout is inside the coach temp and humidity.
Then
Freezer temp and humidity
Fridge temp and humidity
Outside temp and humidity.(the outside sensor is either in the passenger side propane quick connect or the TV bin or attached to the fridge vent door. I don't remember but it's in plain sight if I open them up.)
I THINK it might do high and low temp audible alarms.

I think this was $15 at Campers World.

OldWEB · 10-17-2019, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ducksface

Cheap mod I forgot about until replacing batteries in it today.

The big temp readout is inside the coach temp and humidity.
Then
Freezer temp and humidity
Fridge temp and humidity
Outside temp and humidity.(the outside sensor is either in the passenger side propane quick connect or the TV bin or attached to the fridge vent door. I don't remember but it's in plain sight if I open them up.)
I THINK it might do high and low temp audible alarms.

I think this was $15 at Campers World.

It looks like it... but does it actually work? I mean getting the signal thru the fridge metal wall? I was going to install a two temp, remote bulbs, high and low alarm monitor that I got on Amazon. Just a cheap Chinese made unit.

Yours with an alarm would be the cat's meow! Thanks for the idea... not copyrighted or patented or something, eh?

Stay cool

ducksface · 10-17-2019, 08:07 PM

The outside sensor didn't like being in the rear most bin so we moved it closer and have never since lost a signal on any of them that wasn't battery related.
I had sincere doubts at the $15 price point, but no failures. It'll be a year on Halloween.

Mag · 10-18-2019, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ducksface

Fenderwells
Preliminary fit and part numbers. I think they were 38 bucks each, shipped.
I've been saying they're from a silverado. The part number tag says ram 1500. No reason, I just bought one to see what's what, and it fit so I ordered the other side.
They're hdpe and weight three pounds or less each.
I'm going to try to get them rhinoliner'd before final install. No real reason other than I can.

Oddly, the shock tower cutouts line up and I doubt I'll trim an ounce off of either side for a perfect fit.

I'll do a seperate thread on the install and insulation.

"Did you ever post the install and insulation?"

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