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Old 05-15-2016, 12:09 PM   #21
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Brand: DRV
Model: 39TKSB3 "Modified"
State: South Dakota
Posts: 1,385
THOR #1661
JBurg I think I know why your axle weight was higher weighed separately. Mine was the same weighing at WA State dOT Scales but not as much difference as yours. I think the scales are not as accurate when weighing at the edge of the platform when trying to weigh only one axle at a time. My front weighed 8,140 and rear 9,580#. Makes sense rear weighed more since my RV sits nose high.

I am wondering if Cat Scales would be more accurate weighing axles separately?

Yes I have two large slides in main area and one big bed/WD slide up above, no 4th slide.

My pin is 5,500#.
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Old 05-15-2016, 02:19 PM   #22
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Brand: DRV
Model: 41RSSB4
State: Wyoming
Posts: 173
THOR #2094
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Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
JBurg I think I know why your axle weight was higher weighed separately. Mine was the same weighing at WA State dOT Scales but not as much difference as yours. I think the scales are not as accurate when weighing at the edge of the platform when trying to weigh only one axle at a time. My front weighed 8,140 and rear 9,580#. Makes sense rear weighed more since my RV sits nose high.

I am wondering if Cat Scales would be more accurate weighing axles separately?

Yes I have two large slides in main area and one big bed/WD slide up above, no 4th slide.

My pin is 5,500#.
The edge thing makes sense, I agree that Cat Scales would probably be better. Maybe one day, but usually when we hit the road it is time to go! Stops are for fuel, fuel, and pottying the pups. Our Great Dane is getting up in age a bit and doesn't do so well when he spends more than 7-8 hours in the jeep, so we try to make those hours count.
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:20 AM   #23
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Brand: DRV
Model: 39TKSB3 "Modified"
State: South Dakota
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THOR #1661
I pulled into MorRyde today. We measured everything including the IS rubber springs and they are setting where they should be and are in good condition. So the consensus is to add 3" riser to bring the RV to a level towing position. The RV will set at 13'5" MAX after the work is done.

We talked about the 9k but decided it was not needed. Fact is the brake pads are the same on the 8 and 9K. The caliper has a bigger piston on the 9K.

I just need to get my brake controller to work better and all will be good! Oh I still have DRV to do a punch list next week!
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:39 AM   #24
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Brand: DRV
Model: 38RSSA
State: Wisconsin
Posts: 285
THOR #3221
So in tomorrow and out on Friday than...

3" risers? Your unit doesn't look that un-level from your posts, they are the experts though.

I can't wait until we can get our trailer in there! We're STILL dealing with the paint issue tho.

Dan
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:44 AM   #25
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Brand: DRV
Model: 39TKSB3 "Modified"
State: South Dakota
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THOR #1661
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Originally Posted by dapperdan View Post
So in tomorrow and out on Friday than...

3" risers? Your unit doesn't look that un-level from your posts, they are the experts though.

I can't wait until we can get our trailer in there! We're STILL dealing with the paint issue tho.

Dan
That really sucks. It measures worse than it looks!
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:02 AM   #26
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Dan
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Old 05-18-2016, 12:12 PM   #27
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State: Alabama
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Regarding the brake controller. Do not know what your TV is. Mine is a Chev 2015 3500 drw 4x4. I added an independent Tekonsha P3 controller for the in bed plug. Left the bumper plug on the factory controller. P3 far superior to the factory controller. If you do this, remind the installer, he can't cut/splice any wires. P3 must be 100% independent. He derives his power source from the fuse box or blank accessory power outlet. P3 has three levels of initial boost based on the size of the trailer. Not expensive and worth the peace of mind.

FS
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Old 05-18-2016, 05:50 PM   #28
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Brand: DRV
Model: 41RSSB4
State: Wyoming
Posts: 173
THOR #2094
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
I pulled into MorRyde today. We measured everything including the IS rubber springs and they are setting where they should be and are in good condition. So the consensus is to add 3" riser to bring the RV to a level towing position. The RV will set at 13'5" MAX after the work is done.

We talked about the 9k but decided it was not needed. Fact is the brake pads are the same on the 8 and 9K. The caliper has a bigger piston on the 9K.

I just need to get my brake controller to work better and all will be good! Oh I still have DRV to do a punch list next week!
What's wrong with your brake controller?
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Old 05-18-2016, 05:57 PM   #29
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Brand: DRV
Model: 41RSSB4
State: Wyoming
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dapperdan View Post
So in tomorrow and out on Friday than...

3" risers? Your unit doesn't look that un-level from your posts, they are the experts though.

I can't wait until we can get our trailer in there! We're STILL dealing with the paint issue tho.

Dan
Are you having the same issue Rynosback is having with the paint? (Not to derail this thread. Looked on the other thread and hadn't seen any posts from ya. Feel free to reply over there)
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Old 05-18-2016, 09:09 PM   #30
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Model: 39TKSB3 "Modified"
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THOR #1661
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Originally Posted by JBurg View Post
What's wrong with your brake controller?
The 15 and 16 RAM controller has been changed and does not put out the power the 12-14 controller does. I run mine on 10 the brakes come on strong but there is no extra when you really need it. You can be driving 40-50 and hit the OH SH!T bar and it will hunker down but not even close to locking up.

I know how good the braking should be since I used a MaxBrake on my 11 RAM and other MS. Others have said the 12-14 RAM controller works as well as the MB did. Hope to have a fix from Chrysler. If not I will see if I can make the MB from the 11 work or buy a P3.
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Old 05-18-2016, 09:15 PM   #31
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Pic of first days progress.

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Old 05-18-2016, 11:57 PM   #32
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Model: 38 RSB3
State: South Dakota
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THOR #1658
Glad to see you finally have the clear center caps on your MS. How are you liking Moryde? First class operation in my book.
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Old 05-19-2016, 12:58 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by rynosback View Post
Glad to see you finally have the clear center caps on your MS. How are you liking Moryde? First class operation in my book.
It took two sets of the white caps before they gave me the clear ones. Need a couple replacement hub caps that were damaged knocking out the center portion.

Yes MorRyde employees are top cabin for sure!!!

I have talked to several of the guys. They have one dedicated guy building axles. Great guy. Keith is doing my 3" risers he has worked here for 17 years and knows his stuff.

I just hope my visit to DRV is as positive!!!!!!!

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Old 05-19-2016, 02:34 AM   #34
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Brand: DRV
Model: 41RSSB4
State: Wyoming
Posts: 173
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Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
The 15 and 16 RAM controller has been changed and does not put out the power the 12-14 controller does. I run mine on 10 the brakes come on strong but there is no extra when you really need it. You can be driving 40-50 and hit the OH SH!T bar and it will hunker down but not even close to locking up.

I know how good the braking should be since I used a MaxBrake on my 11 RAM and other MS. Others have said the 12-14 RAM controller works as well as the MB did. Hope to have a fix from Chrysler. If not I will see if I can make the MB from the 11 work or buy a P3.
I run mine on ten as well, but luckily haven't had the oh sh!t moment yet. I feel like mine are sufficient, but my only comparison was when all my brake lines were full of air, so needless to say they are working much better than when I first got the trailer, haha!
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:56 AM   #35
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Brand: DRV
Model: 43' MS Atlanta
State: Arizona
Posts: 114
THOR #1683
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
So the consensus is to add 3" riser to bring the RV to a level towing position. The RV will set at 13'5" MAX after the work is done.

So, I am guessing that with my 2" riser, my Atlanta is sitting at 13'4" now.

Joe
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:36 AM   #36
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Brand: DRV
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So, I am guessing that with my 2" riser, my Atlanta is sitting at 13'4" now.

Joe

If you have 55" to the top of your bed at the tailgate and 6" clearance at the bed I would bed that is correct.

Mine with the factory rear air ride may sit a bit higher than the ones without air ride and that is why a 2" riser is enough for them but I needed 3"?
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Old 05-19-2016, 01:42 PM   #37
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Brand: DRV
Model: 38RSSA
State: Wisconsin
Posts: 285
THOR #3221
Looks good Cummins! I hope you get your brake issues resolved. Not much worse feeling than not being able to stop when you need to!

Hey was that your axel on the bench in the pic? Just wondering.....

Dan
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Old 05-19-2016, 01:53 PM   #38
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Brand: DRV
Model: 36RSSB3
State: Texas
Posts: 215
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Does anyone know the cost involved with adding the 2" riser? This looks like something I need to have done.
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Old 05-19-2016, 02:26 PM   #39
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State: Alabama
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Re: the brake controller. While in Elkhart, if you decide to add an after market brake controller, Dan's Hitch is the place to go. They do a lot of work for the drivers that deliver the RVs nation wide. Large inventory and they know what they are doing.

FS
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:22 PM   #40
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Brand: DRV
Model: 43' MS Atlanta
State: Arizona
Posts: 114
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Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
If you have 55" to the top of your bed at the tailgate and 6" clearance at the bed I would bed that is correct.

Mine with the factory rear air ride may sit a bit higher than the ones without air ride and that is why a 2" riser is enough for them but I needed 3"?
That certainly makes sense. Thanks Ron.

Joe
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