Anderson Kantleak Replacement

[Dean]

I have a leak on the backside of my Anderson Kantleak valve assembly. Water is leaking between the middle fitting and fitting toward the rear of the trailer. I have a new valve assembly to swap it out with, but before I dive into this project I would like to know if anyone has done this by themselves before, or if there are any videos that show the process.

Appreciate any advise some those who have been down this road before.

Thanks,

[heiser252]

Here

is a link to a video showing how to change out the valve body.

[mtntrek]

Thanks for posting.
Sure looks easy when you know what you're doing, huh?
I'd probably smear a light coat of bee's wax or silly-cone grease on that cartridge prior to insertion.
Think it's been noted that entering grit is the biggest source of those o-ring failures. A filter of some sort on your supply water hose might help prolong the cartridge service life?

[Dean]

Thanks for posting the video of the cartridge replacement, but mine is leaking between the fittings on the back of the assembly. I have an entire new valve assembly / mounting plate to install.

It looks to me like the assembly will drop right into place where the old one came out, but I'm wondering how I will get all the water lines re-connected to the fittings on the back of the assembly because there isn't much room to get your hands back in there.

Anyone have any experience changing out the whole assembly?

[Bobi, Dick and Ruby McKee]

Ours started to leak there too, but it was simply loose fittings. I was going to replace the valve too, but when I started to remove the fitting so I could pull the valve out I discovered they were loose. Tightened them up and no more problem.
Dick

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by Dean

Thanks for posting the video of the cartridge replacement, but mine is leaking between the fittings on the back of the assembly. I have an entire new valve assembly / mounting plate to install.

It looks to me like the assembly will drop right into place where the old one came out, but I'm wondering how I will get all the water lines re-connected to the fittings on the back of the assembly because there isn't much room to get your hands back in there.

Anyone have any experience changing out the whole assembly?

I would disassemble your new one and put teflon tape and even a little pipe dope in all of the connections. Then you should be able to install it with confidence.

[Stickbender]

Ours leaked back there and I just reached back and tightened by hand. Easy fix

[ARCliz]

replacing complete assembly is not that hard. mark all lines as you take off from back ( # them ) vent line is best removed from front as unit is pulled out ( last one removed ) before you install new one , remove valve(s) from base plate and install teflon tape on fittings to plastic TEE that joins them, this is an area that leaks also. reverse order to reinstall starting with vent line, then install plate, re-attach lines from back-side. good luck and be patient

[Keyspirate]

Dean,

If PM with your phone number I will call you with details on how rebuild yours and leak check it b4 you reinstall it.

[Dean]

I changed out the valve assembly yesterday. Really didn't have any trouble other than dealing with the really tight working space in behind the panel.

The valve assembly that came on my 2017 38RSSA had a brass body on the water heater bypass valve; the water tank fill / city fixtures / normal valve had a plastic body, and the Tee that connected those two valves was also plastic. The replacement valve assembly I received from Anderson was different - the Tee and both valve bodies were plastic.

I used a silicone lubricant (same stuff I use on O-rings for our home pool filter housing) on all the plastic threads on the back of the assembly. I think this type of fitting only uses the hand-tightened nut to pull the tubing into the threaded nipple on the back of the panel to seal, and the nut and threads don't actually contact the water in the line. So, my thought behind using the silicone lube was to help the nut thread fully onto the nipple and make a tight seal between the end of the tubing and the end of the plastic nipple.

So far, so good. Pressurized the system afterwards and no leaks. Will continue to keep an eye on it.

[Maxjr758]

Originally Posted by Bobi, Dick and Ruby McKee

Ours started to leak there too, but it was simply loose fittings. I was going to replace the valve too, but when I started to remove the fitting so I could pull the valve out I discovered they were loose. Tightened them up and no more problem.
Dick

Is this where your leak was ? Between the brass and plastic? I assume you tighten the brass nut to correct your leak ?

[MS60ocb]

Dean I replaced my Anderson Kantleak assy after some time thinking it was a connection. Turned out my leak was a bad glue joint near the hot water bypass. I had been in MN with abnormally high iron in the water. The rust left its tracks.

Clay 2016 MS 38PS3

[Keyspirate]

Max that is the same place mine leaked. I replaced the plastic T with a brass one and have not had a problem since.

[Maxjr758]

Originally Posted by Keyspirate

Max that is the same place mine leaked. I replaced the plastic T with a brass one and have not had a problem since.

Finally got a response from Anderson on my leaky situation. According to them, you can't tighten the brass fitting as it will,

"Unfortunately there isn’t any way to fix the leak on the 200RV-PT, because if you were to attempt to tighten the brass connection, you would risk twisting and possibly breaking any of the other connections. The only solution is to replace the panel as a whole. Anderson has replaced this model with an upgraded version, the 200RV-WHB. It doesn’t have brass on the water heater bypass side, but rather the same material as the four function valve and the tee that connects the two. The two panels are virtually identical. I will link you to our site where you can look at it, and purchase if that’s what you choose to do. (https://www.rnodistributors.com/product-page/200rv-whb)"
Looks to be quite a racket Anderson has going here, sell a defective part to Thor to go into there new builds, then charge $160, to the owner for the fix !
Anyone know of an alternative, to the Anderson " Kantleak panel " ?
[ATTACH]]

[juicesqueezer]

We don't have this valve on our rig, at least not in this configuration. Does anyone know when DRV started using the Anderson product? We have the Mobile Suites Estates and I believe DRV only produced this model in '14.

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by Maxjr758

Looks to be quite a racket Anderson has going here, sell a defective part to Thor to go into there new builds, then charge $160, to the owner for the fix !
Anyone know of an alternative, to the Anderson " Kantleak panel " ?

Quite the scam.

Alternative would be kind of funky. Make your own manifold with 1/4 turn valves.

[Maxjr758]

Well after the Email from Anderson Brass's Distributor, I decided to try to fix the leak myself since I'm the Second Owner of this coach, which still has only 5,600 some miles on it, and I have no Warranty as pointd out by Thor.
I completely removed the 4 way valve, and Hot Water by-pass, and disassembled the entire thing. Cleaned all the pipe dope brushed all the threads, clean and then wrapped all threaded parts with Teflon tape. I reassembled, and reinstalled it. PRESSURED TO 40 PSI
NO LEAKS !

[wingnut60]

Sure seems like things were simpler before Kantleak/NevRLube/NevRAdjust/etc.....

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by wingnut60

Sure seems like things were simpler before Kantleak/NevRLube/NevRAdjust/etc.....

Don't ya love the names!

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

Don't ya love the names!

Neverfail spring shackles ....