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Old 01-13-2018, 12:50 AM   #21
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Brand: DRV
Model: 44' Santa Fe
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How about the vast majority of people who have never had a problem with theirs? A few bad ones does not create an emergency. I have noticed several people on here complaining who actually do not have a problem, much less a reoccurring one, jumping in just to make noise.
And since this is actually the DRV forum, ALL DRVs do come with individual shut offs for every water line in them. You can isolate anything you choose.
As far as the new control panels =what does that mean? What happens when anything fails? Technology is going to advance with or with out your consent. Deal with it.

Bill
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Old 01-13-2018, 04:59 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Boatbird View Post
My problem was the Anderson unit, but I just replaced the core to,the 4 way unit. One of the O rings on the cylinder had broken. The replacement core was about $30.
This also solved the same problem that the poster of this thread asked about. They improved the seals in the new stems. I posted the replacement procedure on here.
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Old 01-13-2018, 02:19 PM   #23
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Porkchop, an edit to your comment about the shut off valves. Yes, the DRV units have individual shut off valves for all the water lines with one exception as follows.

We have the 1-1/2 bath unit, therefor two toilets. When one of the toilets leaked I immediately shut off the water. Guess what, now no water to either toilets. Lots of fun when your on the road and no place "TO GO".

Of course, if you RV you learn to survive and bounce with the road bumps.
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Old 01-13-2018, 06:36 PM   #24
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Yes, you could also shut off the water at the pedestal and no leaks anywhere....
And, my valve is leaking at the connection outside but I'm not at home to work on it for 2 months--will it reoccur when I fix it? Don't know.
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:23 PM   #25
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Will the sun come up tomorrow? Don't know. Also, if you never turn the lights on they will never burn out, and there is less chance of burning your toast if you just never plug it in to power.
At the connection outside=did you try a new washer?

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Old 01-14-2018, 05:35 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Porkchop View Post
Will the sun come up tomorrow? Don't know. Also, if you never turn the lights on they will never burn out, and there is less chance of burning your toast if you just never plug it in to power.
At the connection outside=did you try a new washer?

Bill
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Old 01-14-2018, 07:14 PM   #27
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Bill,
Never considered the washer--I believe they are Anderson Kantleak also, so Kan't be the the problem....
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Old 02-20-2018, 04:15 PM   #28
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Hereís an update on my Anderson Valve leak. Did a lot of testing but will not bore you with all the details.

It was suggested that perhaps the check valve in the water pump was the culprit. Got to thinking about that. So, disconnected the park water supply. If the check valve were the problem when the water pressure dropped in the water lines because of a leak the water pump would keep cycling on and off. It didnít so I concluded it was not a water pump problem. Water leaks into fresh water tank only when connected to park water supply.

Thought with the sun beating down on the water hose that it built up the pressure in the hose and was causing the leak. So, I moved my water pressure regulator (set at 45 psi) from the park faucet to the other end of the water hose where it connects to the RV. Water still leaked into the fresh water tank.

Got the cylinder to replace in the Anderson valve. Was easy to replace. After replacing water still leaked into the fresh water tank.

Now having a whole new Anderson KantLeak panel sent to me. Will replace and report back with the results in a few weeks.

Thanks to all for your replies.
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Old 02-20-2018, 07:06 PM   #29
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Sounds like this company needs to change the name of their product to Doesleak.
Uup.. Just to complement your Norcold/No Cold.....
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Old 02-21-2018, 01:04 AM   #30
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Still gonna leak....
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Old 04-08-2018, 01:34 AM   #31
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I had the same problem as the OP last July and received a replacement from DRV. I also talked with Kantleak's tech support and he advised to cut the water pressure prior to rotating the selector valve. That made no sense to me and would be very inconvenient, but he explained: the pressure on/through the valve put a great deal of pressure on the 'O' rings and that pressure would causes a tear in them as the selector was rotated, resulting in a leak. When I examined mine, one of them was torn pretty badly, and the selector had not been rotated more than a few times. At that time, the 5 was only ~8 months old and been on a trip 3 times.
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Old 04-08-2018, 03:51 AM   #32
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No where on their website about the valve do they say anything about having to/supposed to cut the water pressure when turning the valve. If it is that important to maintaining the 'Kantleak' status, seems they would mention this.
I do think it would be advantageous to place some silicone grease or some other non-petroleum grease on the seals/gaskets before sliding it back in?
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Old 04-08-2018, 04:12 AM   #33
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The tech told me that he’s not supposed to mention it because it is a design flaw. Based on that, you won’t see it in print. I took him at his word because he had no reason to lie to me and he was sending me a replacement valve assembly at no cost. I have followed his instructions but am making no recommendations to anyone else. I am just passing on information that was given to me; others can use the info as they decide.
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Old 04-08-2018, 01:28 PM   #34
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clev,
Thanks. Will have to wait until my leak gets bad enough to do something about it.
Joe
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Old 04-08-2018, 02:48 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by clev View Post
I had the same problem as the OP last July and received a replacement from DRV. I also talked with Kantleak's tech support and he advised to cut the water pressure prior to rotating the selector valve. That made no sense to me and would be very inconvenient, but he explained: the pressure on/through the valve put a great deal of pressure on the 'O' rings and that pressure would causes a tear in them as the selector was rotated, resulting in a leak. When I examined mine, one of them was torn pretty badly, and the selector had not been rotated more than a few times. At that time, the 5 was only ~8 months old and been on a trip 3 times.
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Originally Posted by wingnut60 View Post
And in correcting the problem by replacing parts that may fail again? Anderson doesn't seem to be able to fix this o-ring wear, thus the new and expensive brass one to be coming soon. A shutoff valve will solve his tank filling problem, but not a leak to the outside of the valve.

The kantleak has been out for several years and many manufacturers are using it and have problems.

I'm really surprised builders haven't topped using them.

Telling customers to turn off the water is really a BS answer. Solving the problem would be a better way. Besides it is only suggested that you turn off the water - suppose you don't somehow relieve pressure? You still have 25' - 50' of hose with pressure in it which is still going to cause a problem.


I don't have a kantleak valve yet, but I can do everything they can with my simple manifold I made up with several 1/4 turn valves, and I can operate those valves under pressure. Never had a failure.

The "Anderson Brass Company" ought to start using some materials that are in the namesake.
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Old 04-08-2018, 02:51 PM   #36
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There are too many convenience features being brought out--witness the control pad on the new DRVs--if it fails, where does that leave you?

Are you referring to the new Lippert touch pad for the LevelUp?
I looked t those when we were at our dealer making an order.

Two things I noted. I prefer the original LevelUp control and DRV's no longer have the mini compartment with the separate door, levelUp and battery shut off.

LevelUp is inside the baggage door and the battery cut off in the hydraulic battery compartment behind the front door. Cable and satellite is in the water dock bay.
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Old 04-08-2018, 04:43 PM   #37
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"my simple manifold I made up with several 1/4 turn valves..."

Port is it possible for you to post a picture/sketch, and elaborate a little?
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Old 04-08-2018, 05:03 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by clev View Post
"my simple manifold I made up with several 1/4 turn valves..."

Port is it possible for you to post a picture/sketch, and elaborate a little?
I'll take pictures later today.

Keep in mind, I do not have our DRV yet, so the pics will be from my current toy hauler.
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Old 04-08-2018, 05:06 PM   #39
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Thanks.
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Old 04-08-2018, 05:44 PM   #40
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Their techs should get together. The one I talked to said shutting off the supply is BS. Like Port said he said what about the pressure in the nose. I was told most failures are caused by sand going into the valve. When I took ours apart it had sand in it. At home here in Arizona we are on a well and do get sand through the system. Following his advice I now use a sediment filter before the valve.
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