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Old 01-14-2019, 10:35 PM   #1
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THOR #9543
Axle nut

I have the 8000 pound IS suspension/Kodiak disk brakes, and the biggest socket that I have is 1 1/4; it's too small for the nut holding on the rotor. Anyone know what size it is? I've checked the manuals for this, it is identified, but no size is given. Kodiak has not been answering their phones. I'm really in a hurry for this so hopefully someone can reply.
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Old 01-14-2019, 11:18 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clev View Post
I have the 8000 pound IS suspension/Kodiak disk brakes, and the biggest socket that I have is 1 1/4; it's too small for the nut holding on the rotor. Anyone know what size it is? I've checked the manuals for this, it is identified, but no size is given. Kodiak has not been answering their phones. I'm really in a hurry for this so hopefully someone can reply.
Funny as I was going to ask this very question as I was thinking of repacking the wheel bearings.

OH, Ron.....
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Old 01-15-2019, 12:03 AM   #3
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I’ve just replaced all the disc pads and noticed one wheel had leaked grease at the rear seal, my fault. The nut was finger tight, but I know that I have to torque it down as I spin the wheel, and then loosen it. No socket, no torque.
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Old 01-15-2019, 03:20 AM   #4
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When I did my brakes last October all I used was a channel lock pliers to take off and replace the hub bolt. I was told you don't want to over tighten that nut.

That nut shouldn't be that tight that you'd need a torque wrench to get off.

Dan
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Old 01-15-2019, 04:51 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by dapperdan View Post
When I did my brakes last October all I used was a channel lock pliers to take off and replace the hub bolt. I was told you don't want to over tighten that nut.

That nut shouldn't be that tight that you'd need a torque wrench to get off.

Dan
Dan,
I do not think that he was looking for a torque spec. Just the size of the socket so he can spin the wheel and get the bearings to seat properly. And then just back it off a little.
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:01 AM   #6
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THOR #13869
A pair of channel-locks is all I have ever used.

Tighten nut while spinning tire to seat the bearings in that fresh new grease.
Back off nut, re-seat the nut snugly while spinning, repeat one or two more times to be sure.
Too tight bad, and too loose bad also, no wobble from end play.
If you set up a dial indicator, most call for not much more than .005" end play to be technical, don't worry on that, just snug it up!
Use a new cotter pin if you have one.

When closing it up, do not totally pack as much grease as will fit.
It needs running room to push the grease away from the bearings' running path.
It is the oil impregnated in the grease that does the lubricating.

If too much grease, meaning filling it, the cap, etc, as much as possible, the grease will churn causing friction within itself.
There has been bearing failures in industrial settings from this (huge pumps, etc.).
Just have a good dollup in there with the bearings packed, leave some air space and you will be fine!
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:31 AM   #7
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I will try to explain the over packing, of the grease, and what is happening.

Think of it like wading through water, and your legs represent the bearings.
If you wade through ankle deep water, try wading as fast as you can, somewhat easy, yes?
Now wade in hip deep water and go as fast as you can.
Much more resistance and harder to get up to speed.

This is what the bearings experience if some of it cannot be moved out of its path.

I hopes this helps y'all.
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Old 01-15-2019, 01:35 PM   #8
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Guys, I appreciate all the advice, but except for Ryan, did anyone actually read the question; LOL. Also, my Castle Nut is recessed in the hub and channel locks will barely ingage the nut, not enough to seat the bearing. And there is no cotter key. There’s a flexible metal cage with a flat spot that snaps over the nut.
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Old 01-15-2019, 02:58 PM   #9
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Have not needed to adjust mine. I just have raised one side had someone spin the wheel while I HAND pump grease into the hub and wipe off old grease as it comes out until fresh grease appears. I grab the tire at opposing edges and give them a push pull. They have had very little movement and did not need adjusting.

NOT that hard to figure it out, simply spin off clear cap and measure!
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Old 01-15-2019, 04:54 PM   #10
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That's exactly how I lubed mine, cummins, but they held a LOT of grease before pumping out of the front. I took a 1000 mile trip after that and am checking everything before heading out again. That's when I discovered a lot of grease behind the front driver's side. I pulled the rotor and front bearing, and checked the seal; all ok, just messy. Now that it's cleaned up and bearing repacked, it's time to re-seat the bearing. Need a socket.
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Old 01-15-2019, 05:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clev View Post
Guys, I appreciate all the advice, but except for Ryan, did anyone actually read the question; LOL. Also, my Castle Nut is recessed in the hub and channel locks will barely ingage the nut, not enough to seat the bearing. And there is no cotter key. Thereís a flexible metal cage with a flat spot that snaps over the nut.
Well I'll be, sorry 'bout that, but looking back I do not see you mention the nut recessed though.
That said, a set of vernier calipers are needed, to get the size for a socket.
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Old 01-15-2019, 07:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clev View Post
I have the 8000 pound IS suspension/Kodiak disk brakes, and the biggest socket that I have is 1 1/4; it's too small for the nut holding on the rotor. Anyone know what size it is? I've checked the manuals for this, it is identified, but no size is given. Kodiak has not been answering their phones. I'm really in a hurry for this so hopefully someone can reply.
I would give Morryde a call. They have the answer you seek
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Old 01-15-2019, 07:17 PM   #13
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1 1/2 inch. Thanks, guys.
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Old 01-15-2019, 07:18 PM   #14
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10sc, sorry for my oversight. I thought all the IS suspensions would be the same.
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Old 01-15-2019, 08:31 PM   #15
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clev,
I think all IS axle nuts ARE the same, unless maybe the 9k are more stout...some times the MH guys forget we are working with trailer axles.
By the way, you happen to take a pic of the axle nut/cage? Might need to be aware of this myself for later needs.
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Old 01-15-2019, 11:32 PM   #16
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Joe, I didn't take a picture of that retainer as my hands were "greasey" when I was doing my brake job and re-pack.

But here's a pic of one that's VERY close to what is on our axels.

[IMG][/IMG]

Hope this helps, it's spring loaded and slips over the axel nut and aligns with the flat part of the axel. It's removed with a small screw driver, at least that's how I popped mine off.

Dan
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Old 01-16-2019, 01:02 AM   #17
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Thank you, dapper; that’s it. I was surprised to see this and not see a cotter key. This retainer just snaps on and off.
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Old 01-16-2019, 01:17 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by clev View Post
1 1/2 inch. Thanks, guys.
Thanks, if I do not a 1 1/2 or 38mm socket I will have to pick one up.
Interesting how many people are greasing the bearing through the zerk fitting.
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Old 01-16-2019, 01:18 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by clev View Post
Thank you, dapper; thatís it. I was surprised to see this and not see a cotter key. This retainer just snaps on and off.
Yup. Sometimes the inner diameter of it is tough to slip over the spindle.
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Old 01-16-2019, 11:56 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rynosback View Post
Thanks, if I do not a 1 1/2 or 38mm socket I will have to pick one up.
Interesting how many people are greasing the bearing through the zerk fitting.
That's how the system is intended to be greased. I won't be doing that for too much longer when I change over to the oil bath system.
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