Broken bearing dust covers/bearing caps

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by Steadfast

Our 2016 coach was completed in March. It arrived at the dealer missing one dust cover. We found the second cover loose in the hubcap recently. I quickly got on the phone to DRV and they sent me 4 replacements. They told me that Kodiak sent them batch of brittle dust covers. Hopefully, all the brittle ones are gone and the replacements that we received are good.

We are insisting that the wheel bearings on the wheels that lost the dust covers be repacked by hand under warranty. No argument from DRV.

I agree and said the same thing to them about cleaning out and re packing the wheel bearings and cleaning and inspecting the spindle also. I'm picking up a 2 3/16 socket today.

[Humbrace]

Don't your trailer wheels have the new axels that have the grease fitting on the wheel outside that you just grease with a gun and the grease from the bearings is flushed to the outside? The more grease you use the more old grease is flushed out! This is the more modern way to get new grease into the bearings! I have a 14,000 lb. open flat auto carrier with two axels and they have 16 inch wheels with this feature. No more taking the wheels off! Just grease with new grease and flush the old grease out from inside!

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by Humbrace

Don't your trailer wheels have the new axels that have the grease fitting on the wheel outside that you just grease with a gun and the grease from the bearings is flushed to the outside? The more grease you use the more old grease is flushed out! This is the more modern way to get new grease into the bearings! I have a 14,000 lb. open flat auto carrier with two axels and they have 16 inch wheels with this feature. No more taking the wheels off! Just grease with new grease and flush the old grease out from inside!

Not sure how the moryde independent suspension is set up yet. It would be cool if it was set up that way. But I would worry about putting to much pressure on the seals. Plus any grit I would want removed, not just moved around. Right now I have plastic wrap and a rubber band holding it on to keep crap out of there while parked. The rain storms have been really hard from time to time.

[Steadfast]

Originally Posted by Humbrace

Don't your trailer wheels have the new axels that have the grease fitting on the wheel outside that you just grease with a gun and the grease from the bearings is flushed to the outside? The more grease you use the more old grease is flushed out! This is the more modern way to get new grease into the bearings! I have a 14,000 lb. open flat auto carrier with two axels and they have 16 inch wheels with this feature. No more taking the wheels off! Just grease with new grease and flush the old grease out from inside!

Yes, the morryde axle hubs have EZLube fittings. I, however, would prefer that it be done the old fashion way to know it is done completely. The bearings and race can also be inspected at that time.

[Porkchop]

I do not think some people understand that there are 4 distinctly different types of bearing used on trailers. You may have anyone of them depending on the axles that were specked, originally or as a maintenance choice and when your unit was built. You can not say that in any particular year "This is what was used". They have all been used, and all are still being used.

Also, the axles and assemblies are installed when the frame is built, and are on when delivered to DRV factory. DRV does not install axles, bearings, brakes, or rear hitchs or suspentions. Nor will they work on them. They will refer you to the responsible people. Usually Lippert.

1. Oil bath. This is the tried and tested choice of the big rigs. Stop in any truck stop and walk around a bit. You will be looking a LONG time before you find anything different on the truck or trailer
2. Easy lube. You can grease without removing anything except the center of the hubcap if you choose. Millions of satisfied customers.
3. Nevrlube. As it's name implies. A factory sealed bearing set, that is not serviceable. Replace only. Again, millions of happy people.
4. Traditional,hand packable bearings. Millions and millions in use. Good set up, but there are easier more user friendly options today.

What it all boils down to is user preferance. All are good choices. Good and bad in all of them. YEMV. By the way, there is no such thing as a Easylube/oil bath set up. Unless you had the seals changed and added oil yourself. Does not come from the factory.

Bill

[Cummins12V98]

HAAAAAAA spoke too soon!

Took our new MS on it's first road trip. Dust cover is missing and cap has a hole in the center now! Also the other three wheels have grease streaks on them.

GRRRRRRR

[Florida]

That's really too bad... DRV knows they have a problem... They should be required to let prospective buyers know that they may have a problem... It is a safety issue...

[rynosback]

I just put 4 new ones on mine. The torque specs for them from DRV are 18-20 ft lbs. I torqued mine to 19 ft lbs.

[Florida]

Mine goes into the shop tomorrow to have my bearings and spindles checked after pulling it at least 700 miles with 3 broken caps... Guess we will carry extras with us on the road... We bought DRV because of the reputation and customer service... They've been really good about this but nice doesn't make it better... Thanks for the info on the torque...

[EA37TS]

Seems to me that something of this nature would be considered a safety defect. Have you folks reported the problem to NHTSA so they could initiate an investigation and determine if a recall is required?

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I have pulled ours for almost 2,000 miles now without any further issues including a round trip across the Smoky Mtn Parkway on I-40. If anything further would have happened, that section of curvy road should have popped something loose. It isn't a safety issue as such because it is easy to see when it happens. I do carry a few spares just in case (as well as bulbs, fuses, wire, brake fluid, brake pads, etc...) I don't know if they were over torqued from the factory or a bad batch of covers but it is a simple fix.


Porkchop, you are right about the 4 different types of bearings but the oil bath hubs were having an issue about leaking (I think it was a pressure build up issue due to no vent holes in the cap). I also don't like the thinner grease used with the easy lube hubs and it is also very easy to blow the seals on the inside of the hub and not notice it at the time causing brake issues. The never lube hubs will need a press to fix when they go bad and can't be inspected other than by "feel" as you spin the wheel.


That leaves good old greased bearings which can be inspected and cleaned, are easy to change even sitting on the side of the road with simple hand tools, use a nice thick bearing grease and can be found pretty much anywhere. They might be old school but then again, so am I.....

[Porkchop]

I doubt it could be a pressure issue. None of the big trucks have a vent & they have no big problems. If I remember correctly (rairly any more) it turned out to be the wrong o rings were being installed by the cap manuf. Stemco. I think. You are right about the hand packing, but I prefer Easy lube for mine. They do sell grease cartridges with wheel bearing grease in them. I have had all 4 on DRVs so far and have never had a problem with any. My current has oil bath. Probably just jinked myself

Bill

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Bill,


I like being able to pull, clean and inspect the bearings before packing them. I can usually catch a bearing that is starting to gall at that point and replace it while at home in my nice warm/cool garage instead of sitting on the side of the rode being passed by idiots busy texting, calling their boyfriend/girlfriend, reading email, etc. (usually in the rain) knocking a race out and putting in a new race and seal....


Given a choice, Easy Lube would be my second choice, oil bath the third and Never Lube would be never...... They are just like a front hub bearing as they sound just fine and the next thing you know, they are gone.

[Florida]

I had Kodiak overnight me 4 caps and they were received today... Problem is they are the clear caps... I've specifically told him our caps were white... The guy really made me laugh today... We called him and asked him if the clear caps would work... He said they would... But his explanation was off a little to me... He told my wife that because of the heat in NEVADA, the white ones weren't holding up well... I laughed so hard I couldn't even call him back... The problem was there before the 5th wheel saw a road in Nevada...

Do any of you have an opinion on the clear caps?

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by Joe & Diana

I had Kodiak overnight me 4 caps and they were received today... Problem is they are the clear caps... I've specifically told him our caps were white... The guy really made me laugh today... We called him and asked him if the clear caps would work... He said they would... But his explanation was off a little to me... He told my wife that because of the heat in NEVADA, the white ones weren't holding up well... I laughed so hard I couldn't even call him back... The problem was there before the 5th wheel saw a road in Nevada...

Do any of you have an opinion on the clear caps?

Only Kodak can answer what the difference is. Maybe they are made of a different compound? So they could be better or not.

[GeorgiaHybrid]

The clear caps were designed to allow you to see the oil level on oil filled hubs. DRV requested the white ones to use on greased bearings so people wouldn't be confused. Either one will work just fine just be aware that grease will sling into the clear cap so you still will not be able to see anything after a few miles.

The rubber cap in the center allows the same style cap to be used on EZ Lube hubs, oil filled hubs or std, greased bearing hubs.

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by rynosback

I just put 4 new ones on mine. The torque specs for them from DRV are 18-20 ft lbs. I torqued mine to 19 ft lbs.

I would have gone 20

[Florida]

Thanks all... We will see how it turns out... Safe travels to you all...

Joe & Diana

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

I would have gone 20

I did the middle as we know what happens to when they are over torqued. I would bet it is the compression on the o-ring that really helps keep it on creating a good seal.

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by rynosback

I did the middle as we know what happens to when they are over torqued. I would bet it is the compression on the o-ring that really helps keep it on creating a good seal.

I sent Greg a email early this AM. I just received a confirmation from UPS that my replacement parts are on their way.

That's service!

I will be torquing mine to 20'# with a little spit.