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Old 08-25-2018, 07:58 PM   #61
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I found a little water inside my front cap when I re-insulated the front wall. I suspect the marker lights and will need to caulk around them. That, for me, is a good reason not to use cellulose blown in insulation - my research shows that it will absorb water - most types are made from recycled newspaper. It also settles more than blown in glass fibre or rock wool insulation.

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Old 08-25-2018, 11:00 PM   #62
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Front Cap insulation

Thanks. Hunter11

Alvin
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:12 AM   #63
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1999 Hurricane: Has anyone had experience with the frond cap coming loose and the dash and cap moving independently? It's now working my windshield loose and stress cracked the previous one.
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:16 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Cano View Post
1999 Hurricane: Has anyone had experience with the frond cap coming loose and the dash and cap moving independently? It's now working my windshield loose and stress cracked the previous one.
We do not have a dash or windshield as this thread is in the DRV 5th wheel section.
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:09 AM   #65
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I've been reading input and questions from other members about the insulation. As far as pictures, I'm not sure what anyone wants. I posted a picture of the guy on a ladder with his hose in the running light hole, and his truck in the background. Other than that, I don't know what other picture anyone could want. I have no way of taking any other picture, nor do I think Hunter can. As far as settling, if it settles a little, so what? It 'WILL' settle; we all know that. But, I cannot imagine it settling more than, maybe a foot, which would not be a problem. If it does, I'll have more insulation pumped in. But the insulation is pressed against the glued factory insulation preventing it from sagging; that's a plus. Weight? Good grief! Most of you are north of 19k; why are you worrying about <50 pounds of insulation. Leaking lights? Pulling them and inserting the hose for pumping the insulation will not cause them to leak. If they are loose, they'll leak anyway. But, that's why Al Gore invented silicone; caulk your lights. Questions on the quality of the insulation; Christ! I can't believe all these concerns. Look at what you have now! My blown in insulation was/is a cotton blend, fiberglass, wool, no paper, etc. It is not going to absorb moisture unless there is moisture to absorb; as will any of the insulation. I'm really happy with it. Do it or don't. I simply posted what I did for the benefit of other members who had questions.
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:42 AM   #66
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Clarence L. Smith improved the formula for RTVS. The product of his work is what we know now as bathtub caulk or Room Temperature Vulcanizing Silicone. He improved this formula while working for GE. "Silly Putty" was an unexpected result of his work.
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Old 08-26-2018, 02:44 PM   #67
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Dang clev what did you put in your coffee today???
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:32 PM   #68
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Good morning, cummins. I’m sorry; seriously did my post come across a little strong? It wasn’t intentional, and to other members, I would change it, but it’s too late to edit.
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:35 PM   #69
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Good morning, cummins. I’m sorry; seriously did my post come across a little strong? It wasn’t intentional, and to other members, I would change it, but it’s too late to edit.

Just messing with ya!
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:46 PM   #70
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Dang clev what did you put in your coffee today???
Ron, I think he may have posted last night.
Maybe after a cocktail?? He he he he LOL

At any rate, it's all good...... this thread has been fun (and informative) to keep up with!

Dan
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:48 PM   #71
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LOL; no problem, guys.
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:58 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by dapperdan View Post
Ron, I think he may have posted last night.
Maybe after a cocktail?? He he he he LOL

At any rate, it's all good...... this thread has been fun (and informative) to keep up with!

Dan

Good point! Either way there is nothing wrong with a little passion!
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Old 01-07-2019, 10:08 PM   #73
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I've had to pull/disassemble the 'safe' part of the closet (right side). The panel that the safe is in, broke away from the main wall. After taking it apart, I do mean break. The screws were broken off in the aluminum stud. I can't imagine how that could happen. Anyway, I pulled the panel and the insulation has settled about half way down; I was surprised. Now that I have it apart, and have access, I'm going to use 6" bats, house type insulation, and using a long flexible rod, push it across from right to left. I can push them to the bottom, resting on the settled insulation, and then stack them up to the top. Anyway, that's the plan. But, like Iron Mike Tyson once said, "Everyone's got a plan, until you punch'em in the face".
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Old 01-07-2019, 10:45 PM   #74
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If your willing to work with it RockWool insulation is much more dense and may not compress over time as much as standard insulation. Nothing to back up what i am saying other than I worked a lot with RockWool in Construction.
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Old 01-08-2019, 12:29 AM   #75
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Thank you, Cummins; I'll check Lowe's tomorrow.
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Old 01-08-2019, 02:16 AM   #76
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clev,
Looking back at post #41--and you sealing all the openings in the underbelly----I would do that also, but need some place for the water that gets in to get out.....
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:20 AM   #77
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clev,
Looking back at post #41--and you sealing all the openings in the underbelly----I would do that also, but need some place for the water that gets in to get out.....
Wing, I'm sure that we can't stop every drop of water, but mine is 'sealed', front to rear, as good as it can be. If there is some place for water to enter the belly, I don't know where it would be. Also, if water did enter the belly, it would soak into the insulation and cause mold, mildew, rust, etc.

Also, for others following this 'front cap insulation' issue:

After pulling the 'safe' section of the wall, I noticed that the cedar wall with shelving is insulated pretty good. It has a stiff, 4" insulation that is glued to the back side of the cedar, all the way across, top to bottom. But for those of you that are worried about the insulation falling or collapsing inside the cap, don't worry about it; there's none there. There were 2 pieces directly behind the safe, but that was it, there was nothing glued to the wall where the safe is located. Except for the glued stuff, the cap was empty except for my blown in insulation. I would have to have special ordered RockWool, per cummins recommendations, and would have done it, except I had to have this back together by next Wednesday for a Key West trip. So, I bought regular 8' bats of 6" insulation and shoved it long ways, right to left, with an expandable walking stick; it took 3 1/2 pieces. After shoving in each piece, using the walking stick, I pulled it back from the front side, and reached in to spray adhesive as far as I could reach. I stacked one piece on top of the other and repeated the spray adhesive. At the very top, I had to split a bat to 6" wide to glue to the top. It's all back together now, and I am satisfied with the finished product. There was no evidence of water intrusion around the lights that were accessible from my vantage point.
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Old 01-11-2019, 04:26 AM   #78
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clev,
There was NO factory insulation behind the front cap?
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Old 01-11-2019, 04:50 AM   #79
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Wing, there was 4” thick insulation glued around the back side of the cedar wall, where the shelves are located. I couldn’t see the other side of the shelving. And there were 2 bats of insulation behind the safe. That was it. Other than that, and except for my blown in insulation, the front cap was empty; It was a large empty space. With a flashlight, I leaned in and saw the whole area.
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:34 PM   #80
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And one other thing; there was no aluminum framing across the front in mine. The wooden, cedar wall is all there was, and in the ‘safe’ section, the flimsy frame was over an inch short of reaching the ceiling.
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