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Old 08-19-2018, 10:46 PM   #1
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Front Cap Insulation

After reading of some issues on this, I decided to look behind the front closet wall on our 2018 38RSSA. I got a peek by taking out the receptacle on the ODS and saw that insulation had fallen down. There was plenty of outside light visible also. So, I then proceeded to remove all of the wall board to see the extent of the problem. Photos below. The two sides were the worst. The centre section had all of the batts in place, but they were not tight against the inner wall. The removed wallboard showed little evidence of the batts sticking to them, and the adhesive was not uniformly sprayed. The wall board was glued and stapled on to the frame and was a bugger to get off. It appears that the frame (1 X 2 luan lumber) is assembled before placement in the closet. The plan is to use styrofoam SM and glue to the back of the framing 1 X 2's in sections, and then replace the wall board with some lighter coloured panelling material - screwed on. I'll be using the batt insulation to fill the corners. I'll also reinforce the stapled together frame with pocket screws.

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Old 08-20-2018, 02:14 AM   #2
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Wow!! It looks like I have another "project" to look into. I just finished (I hope) trying to waterproof my curbside basement door.

When you say "a bugger to pull apart", what made it so difficult (without looking at my own closet) to remove the wall material? I'm just curious.

Dan
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Old 08-20-2018, 04:31 AM   #3
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THOR #5859
What do you think about reframing the whole with 15" Centers and using regular backed insulation ?
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Old 08-20-2018, 06:15 AM   #4
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Iím investigating an option that would NEVER drop and requires no dismantling of the closet. I will start a thread once I get it resolved.
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:07 AM   #5
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THOR #5196
Your best, and most permanent solution would be to use spray foam insulation. Foam will fill all the odd sized places, insulate well, and reduce noise!
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Old 08-20-2018, 12:17 PM   #6
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The wallboard was hard to remove because it is glued and stapled to the wood frame. That wall is obviously assembled in the shop in three panels before being installed in the trailer. I a going to likely remove the three frames and glue thick styrofoam SM insulation to the back of them and then reinstall them. I will then attach new wallboard - probably with a zillion screws.
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Old 08-20-2018, 12:32 PM   #7
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Those walls/sections are built while laying flat, then installed. Amazing that no one would think (or care) this wouldn't fall and shift downward while moving. I would use styrofoam panels cut to the size of the sections held in place with spray adhesive. Spay foam is great but requires a lot of shaving to get it level with vertical studs. If sprayed inside the cavities with interior walls in place, it can cause bulging...especially with everything as thin as it is.
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Old 08-20-2018, 03:34 PM   #8
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There is a spray foam that has very little expansion factor...

Now, I have to check into ours.


"Please provide one proven, documented instance of insulation falling.

Bill"

Here it is, Bill
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Old 08-20-2018, 05:31 PM   #9
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Now I see it I believe it. A REAL picture, not a story about someone's cousins hair dresser's plumber's nephew's girl friend. Hard to beat a picture.

Bill
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Old 08-20-2018, 06:40 PM   #10
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Porkchops...that crap is on another forum...folks here speak the truth and from experiences. Pictures were posted in original post. We're the real deal here. How come you're so famiiar with what 'someone's cousins hair dresser's plumber's nephew's girl friend' would do?
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:02 PM   #11
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I believe ours has fallen as well, since it is pretty warm in the closet area, warmer than it should be if all the insulation was in place.
Will be tearing into that option soon!
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Old 08-20-2018, 07:03 PM   #12
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Personally I would find a blow in product that is designed to NOT compress over time. No way would I take out all the "STUFF" my wife has in there just to remove the wall that is a bugger to remove.
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:50 PM   #13
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I posted somewhere, with pictures, about having insulation blown into the front and rear cap of mine. Sorry Gritz, LOL, I donít remember which forum. I just dug out the information to reply to a PM. It cost $200 and used 1 to 1 1/2 bags of compressed insulation.
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clev View Post
I posted somewhere, with pictures, about having insulation blown into the front and rear cap of mine. Sorry Gritz, LOL, I donít remember which forum. I just dug out the information to reply to a PM. It cost $200 and used 1 to 1 1/2 bags of compressed insulation.
Yeah, I remember seeing your post (with pics)!!!! I thought then that was a pretty smart move!!! Refresh my memory please, didn't you have someone blow it in through the clearance light holes or something like that?????

Dan
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Old 08-21-2018, 12:44 AM   #15
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Yes, Dan. But then I received a lot of abuse, LOL, about loose fitting lights.
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Old 08-21-2018, 01:53 AM   #16
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THOR #1658
I think spray foam is a GREAT product. But, not for our application. As it is to ridged. We need some flex as our homes on wheels flex while going down the road. It might create a whole new set of problems.
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Old 08-21-2018, 02:38 AM   #17
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Blown in cotton/wool batting!
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Old 08-21-2018, 03:42 AM   #18
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I'm not convinced that blown-in insulation is a one time fix. It works well on wall cavities that are empty, but in my case some of the batts had completely fallen down, while others had just buckled and left gaps. You may need repeated applications to ensure that voids get filled after the stuff moves down during road trips. It's probably the only viable method if there are concerns over the batts shifting in the rear cap. And, if you do not want to tear your front closet apart, your options are limited.
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Old 08-21-2018, 03:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Willy View Post
I'm not convinced that blown-in insulation is a one time fix. It works well on wall cavities that are empty, but in my case some of the batts had completely fallen down, while others had just buckled and left gaps. You may need repeated applications to ensure that voids get filled after the stuff moves down during road trips. It's probably the only viable method if there are concerns over the batts shifting in the rear cap. And, if you do not want to tear your front closet apart, your options are limited.
Maybe not..... I have a plan in the works. I am going to do it first then post it up.
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Old 08-21-2018, 04:09 AM   #20
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Willy, that is not a concern for me. I removed the light beside the hitch and observed the batting settling from top to bottom. In the back cap, I removed the lower lights and watched the cavity fill up. Everyone has to make their own decisions and Iíve read a lot of concerns about falling insulation. This fix works for me, Iím glad that I had it done, and Iím satisfied with the heat reduction. Settling? That stuff is packed in, top to bottom. If it does settle, itíll be a long time. If someone has a better solution, they should go with it. Follow your own thoughts.
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