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Old 05-29-2018, 01:13 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton View Post
Just looked these up (Anderson 3608M) and just might have to have a set. The capacity is 6,000# each. My MH is nearly 20,000#. Has anyone used these in this weight class? My concern is whether the weight on the front jacks is equal to the weight on the rear jacks of my MH, and if during auto-level where each jack operates individually, if temporary weight on a single jack may cause an overload? I would hate to be sitting on these and one of them give way. That could cause an abrupt fall and create serious strain on the frame and structure...not a pretty scene with stress factors.
I would give the factory a call and see what they say. That is a great question and concern for sure.

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Old 05-29-2018, 01:17 PM   #22
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I emailed them this morning and will share their response. So often, legal and liability concerns interfere with the truth.
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:04 PM   #23
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My front jacks (in the up position) are so close to the ground anyway I probably couldn't get the jack stands under them to begin with. I think I'll just make two of the "Cummins12v98's" for the rear and be OK. I worry about RR tracks and speed humps more than anything. The rear jacks have a huge stroke just to touch the ground, much less, level the coach.
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:36 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton View Post
Just looked these up (Anderson 3608M) and just might have to have a set. The capacity is 6,000# each. My MH is nearly 20,000#. Has anyone used these in this weight class? My concern is whether the weight on the front jacks is equal to the weight on the rear jacks of my MH, and if during auto-level where each jack operates individually, if temporary weight on a single jack may cause an overload? I would hate to be sitting on these and one of them give way. That could cause an abrupt fall and create serious strain on the frame and structure...not a pretty scene with stress factors.

The jacks always operate in pairs - not individually... So front pair, right pair, etc.
The maximum weight on the rear pair (which I would expect to bear more of the weight - why we have dual rear tires) could be approximated by the normal weight on the rear axle... Would vary a little based on the position of jacks compared to axles - but still should be close.
If your rear axle weight is approaching or above 12,000 lbs - then I would hesitate to use something rated at 6,000 per stand (I prefer to have some 'space' between actual and rating...)


Be interesting to see their reply.
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:39 PM   #25
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On the front pads they are 16" long and have center dividers for additional support. As far as having RV off the ground and on my blocks they have no problem supporting the load. I would not hesitate to put the entire 23k on top of one of the blocks with the load perfectly balanced.

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Old 05-29-2018, 02:42 PM   #26
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Now there's a solution...I'll remove all four jacks and just have one installed in the center!!! I can't believe I didn't think of that!!! LOL!!!
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Old 05-29-2018, 04:10 PM   #27
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Now there's a solution...I'll remove all four jacks and just have one installed in the center!!! I can't believe I didn't think of that!!! LOL!!!

I laid awake all night thinking of that one!
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Old 05-30-2018, 07:08 PM   #28
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This is my set up. 99.9% of the time this is how the front is set up.


I do not like having my wheels off the ground as I think the more contact you have with it the more stable it is. This is why a multi block system gives you unlimited configuration depending on your pitch and slope you might incounter at any campground.



It packs up perfectly behind the hitch and the tail gate.
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Old 05-30-2018, 07:13 PM   #29
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One of the reason I got rid of the TT...crawling all over the ground with wood blocks. I like the Anderson because of the magnet but it's probably to light for the rear jacks of mine.
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Old 05-30-2018, 07:17 PM   #30
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One of the reason I got rid of the TT...crawling all over the ground with wood blocks. I like the Anderson because of the magnet but it's probably to light for the rear jacks of mine.
“Crawling on the ground”?

My DRV jacks are on the outside perimeter of the rig.




Now it makes sense about your comment. You do not own a DRV so your set up is different.
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Old 05-30-2018, 07:23 PM   #31
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Rather pricy I think. It also looks like they might sink into soft ground fairly easily as they appear to have a small ground contact area. The magnet idea is good. I use clips on my pads to attach them to the jack feet.
I agree completely. To me it is all about dispersing the weight. These look like it will increase the pounds per square inch which could pose a few problems in certain situations. Especially with the weather which seems to be getting worse every year. Ground saturation is not a good description being used more often.
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Old 05-31-2018, 01:54 PM   #32
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Joe, I received the Andersons and really like them. Snap them on and level the rig. Once leveled we only have about 3"s of ram extended on he side units, and the Suite is solid as a rock. Dick
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Old 05-31-2018, 02:06 PM   #33
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Joe, I received the Andersons and really like them. Snap them on and level the rig. Once leveled we only have about 3"s of ram extended on he side units, and the Suite is solid as a rock. Dick
Thank you Dick, that's great to know. Appreciate the information, as I am sure it will help others on here as well.
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Old 05-31-2018, 03:05 PM   #34
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Hey Ryan, what is the purpose of the blocks under the tires?

Come to my place in the NW and we will make you some fancy blocks!
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Old 05-31-2018, 04:08 PM   #35
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Hey Ryan, what is the purpose of the blocks under the tires?

Come to my place in the NW and we will make you some fancy blocks!
I think with more contact points with the ground the more stable it will be. And I personally do not like to have the wheels off the ground for any extended period of time. Why put added stress on the frame? Just my thought on it.
Looking forward to meeting you when I travel out West.
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Old 05-31-2018, 04:16 PM   #36
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I think with more contact points with the ground the more stable it will be. And I personally do not like to have the wheels off the ground for any extended period of time. Why put added stress on the frame? Just my thought on it.
Looking forward to meeting you when I travel out West.
Maybe I am missing something, whether the tires are on the ground or pads when hitting Auto Level the tires will have the same contact pressures either way after RV is leveled???


Looking forward to it!!!
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Old 05-31-2018, 08:13 PM   #37
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Maybe I am missing something, whether the tires are on the ground or pads when hitting Auto Level the tires will have the same contact pressures either way after RV is leveled???


Looking forward to it!!!
The tires were just slightly off the ground once leveled. That is why I placed the blocks under the tires.
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Old 05-31-2018, 09:35 PM   #38
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"The tires were just slightly off the ground once leveled"????? This really doesn't sound right. Can you give more detail on that statement?

In the picture above the RV looks like it is on pretty level ground.
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Old 05-31-2018, 11:04 PM   #39
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"The tires were just slightly off the ground once leveled"????? This really doesn't sound right. Can you give more detail on that statement?

In the picture above the RV looks like it is on pretty level ground.

It looks level because it is now. Looks can be deceiving. I think I have 3 blocks on the other side vs 6 on the other. You have never leveled and had the wheels off the ground or just ran out of stroke? If so, lucky you. But I am also a full timer and stay at CG all year round.
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Old 06-06-2018, 12:39 PM   #40
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I'm sure that most of us have a coach that retails well above 100k, and I for one, did not and do not want to carry and stack ugly boards under the pads. Yours look really good, cummins, but I wouldn't want to go the time, trouble, and expense of building and painting them. Plus the space to store them; at least the Anderson's stack inside each other a little. I bought 2 of the Anderson blocks shortly after taking delivery, primarily because my truck is so high, the g/neck wouldn't clear the tailgate at max stroke. I always use them, regardless of the type of terrain, and if it does appear soft, I have the yellow, stackable, jack pads. After over a year of use, they still look new, no chips, no cracks, and they have never sunk up. On my last trip, on one occasion, one side of the coach was almost maxed out, so I just ordered 2 more from Amazon for $90 delivered and these have the magnets. I did a search and $90 was the cheapest that I found. Everyone uses what works for them, and these work for me.
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