Kantleak sure does leak!!

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by MS60ocb

I had my second leak on my Second "KantLeak" at the same. The second leak started about 8 months and 4,000 miles after the First "KantLeak KantFix" valve assembly was replaced. The first leak occurred on the right of the plastic TEE to the Hot Water Heater By-pass valve.

Now I have a piece of cardboard laying below the valve assembly to be checked often for leaks (wet cardboard).



Clay 2016 MS 38PS3

My leak would fine it's way towards the front of the rV and drip out right behind the drivers side front jack. Kept thinking it was from the washer plumbing. Happy that's fixed for now!

Next project is to reconfigure my black and grey plumbing that's exposed right under the RV. The 2" valve no longer closes so I think since I am replacing that with a under RV "T" pull valve I may as well put a new 3" there also.

[TheBlackPearl]

Hello
I have been trying to solve two problems all summer. Water tank won't fill from panel and water pump wont draw from water tank. Found o ring from Kantleak valve wedged in waterline between water tank and panel. Hope this might help some poor soul avoid what I've been through to repair this issue

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by TheBlackPearl

Hello
I have been trying to solve two problems all summer. Water tank won't fill from panel and water pump wont draw from water tank. Found o ring from Kantleak valve wedged in waterline between water tank and panel. Hope this might help some poor soul avoid what I've been through to repair this issue

That was the problem with the old stem design. They would blow seals. This is why they were redesigned.

[golf-bears]

rynosback, how were they redesigned?

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by golf-bears

rynosback, how were they redesigned?

Not really sure. I just know when they sent me a new one about a year and a half ago that they said that they redesigned it.

[golf-bears]

Interesting, I got a new valve assembly back in March, installed it and it also leaked and allowed water into the fresh tank. Finally just put a shutoff valve on the water tank fill line. Open it when I use the pump and shut it when I'm hooked the campground water.

[Red Dawg]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

My leak would fine it's way towards the front of the rV and drip out right behind the drivers side front jack. Kept thinking it was from the washer plumbing. Happy that's fixed for now!

Next project is to reconfigure my black and grey plumbing that's exposed right under the RV. The 2" valve no longer closes so I think since I am replacing that with a under RV "T" pull valve I may as well put a new 3" there also.

Did you have water dripping onto your front driver’s side jack pad? Maybe I have the same problem....so it was a loose connection around the Kantleak valve hoses?

[Maxjr758]

Had the same steady drip from the Kantleak valve On our 17 Challenger 37 TB. Bought it with 5045 miles, and it dripped from day one. Bought "pre-owned " so no warranty other than the damaged cargo doors that we made the dealer agree to repair( documented on the sales agreement, as a condition of sale)that's a story for another day . After emailing Anderson they offered to SELL me their NEW AND IMPROVED Kantleak valve for $165 + shipping ! I said that's quite a Racket ya got going on there, selling a faulty part to the Manufacturer, then turning around and selling the repair/replacement part to the end user, BRILLIANT !
I took my Kantleak apart and cleaned GOBS of Blue Plumbers Putty from around all the fittings, and even inside the valves, tefloned all the threaded connectors, hooked it all back up, now my Kantleak, dont Leak ! Suck on that ANDERSON !
Now I'm having a problem getting my Remco 55 Aquajet- ARV water pump to shut off ! I can't find a leak any where.

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by Red Dawg

Did you have water dripping onto your front driver’s side jack pad? Maybe I have the same problem....so it was a loose connection around the Kantleak valve hoses?

The slow drip found its way forward and dripped just behind the front ram on the drivers side. I originally thought it may have been from washing machine plumbing. The blue hose in the middle, the brass fitting was loose going into the plastic valve body. After tightening that the black connector needs to be re tightened to the brass fitting.

[Maxjr758]

Originally Posted by Cummins12V98

The slow drip found its way forward and dripped just behind the front ram on the drivers side. I originally thought it may have been from washing machine plumbing. The blue hose in the middle, the brass fitting was loose going into the plastic valve body. After tightening that the black connector needs to be re tightened to the brass fitting.

When I took mine completely apart both the plastic valve body and the tee were caked with globs of that Blue Plumbers Putty !

[jpjulian]

I have an email in to Anderson and after 2 days there is no reply. So many have spoken of great service. Any idea how long I may have to wait for that service?


Joe

[Maxjr758]

Originally Posted by Maxjr758

When I took mine completely apart both the plastic valve body and the tee were caked with globs of that Blue Plumbers Putty !

I cleaned all areas of all the plastic, and brass fittings, applied Teflon tape reassembled been out twice no leaks! Still can't get the pump to shut off.

[Porthole]

I got an email response this week.

“I received your inquiry from Anderson Brass. I am a distributor for them, and handle their RV product technical support. I’d love to help you solve your problem, but.....”

Been playing phone tag since

Now it is always filling the tank.
1 day on park water
2 days using the noisy pump
Repeat

[One fat one]

I had the same problem with my fresh water tank overfilling while on city water it's the o rings on the main valve ther should be a shut off valve on the fresh water tank or there was one on the supply side of mine you can turn it off and stop the tank from filling also it can make u think you have a bad pump if you decide to use tank instead of city water the pressure bleeds off and pump keeps coming on.the new valve was $20 I bought 2 from there dealer in Florida don't remember the name I googled it but it only took about 15 min to replace it had good instructions he said they were coming out with a new replacement made of brass

[Porthole]

I’ve been hearing about the new version for over a year now.

[Maxjr758]

Originally Posted by Porthole

I’ve been hearing about the new version for over a year now.

They offered to Sell me the New and Improved Kantleak panel for $165 ! I said quite a Rackett you have going on! Sell the Manufactures a faulty component, then charge the end Consumer for the fix ! Brilliant !

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by Maxjr758

They offered to Sell me the New and Improved Kantleak panel for $165 ! I said quite a Rackett you have going on! Sell the Manufactures a faulty component, then charge the end Consumer for the fix ! Brilliant !

I finally talked the distributer for willleak today.

I was told the new valve is still not available, but when it is the plastic version will no longer be available or serviceable.

There are apparently multiple versions. Black handles, red or blue handles, brass jam nuts, chrome jam nuts etc.

They want me to go through the dealer or manufacturer for warranty issues on a 5 month old RV.

They might be willing to help if I supply them with the number from the RIVA decal.

As far as I know, our DRV never had a RIVA decal.

[Maxjr758]

Originally Posted by Porthole

I finally talked the distributer for willleak today.

I was told the new valve is still not available, but when it is the plastic version will no longer be available or serviceable.

There are apparently multiple versions. Black handles, red or blue handles, brass jam nuts, chrome jam nuts etc.

They want me to go through the dealer or manufacturer for warranty issues on a 5 month old RV.

They might be willing to help if I supply them with the number from the RIVA decal.

As far as I know, our DRV never had a RIVA decal.

Very interesting, as it seems their story keeps changing! They wanted me to " ORDER " the NEW valve Panel with the redesigned valves when I emailed them. Not sure what to believe ! Anyway mine no longer leaks, I just can't get the pump to shut off. It gets close to cutting off, but never quite does. I read somewhere, someone found a small crack in the filter cap, that was allowing theirs to suck air, and not shut off. Got to check that possiblity !

[jpjulian]

A good samaritan gave me a new Kantleak manifold and it was installed last week. We still have a small leak coming from the brass t-fitting. I put a 40-50 psi regulator on the supply hose as well as our water softener which combined has drastically reduced water pressure which in turn has slowed the leak. An email sent to Anderson several weeks ago has not been returned. I'm half tempted to spray some of that "as seen on TV" spray sealant on the damn thing to stop the leak.



Joe

[Roam America]

I had same issue. After dealer fixed it, the DRV Rep told me that you must relieve water pressure from the valve before rotating the level. He said turn water supply off, open the sprayer hose to drain and then go inside nd open one of the faucets. Then the switch can be changed. Failure to do so causes the O-Rings to move out of place.


Dunno.