Ordering Questions-

Walker · 07-18-2015, 12:06 PM

We're filling out the build sheet and have several questions concerning "Specials"-
-Is the Cheap Heat worth the price?

-Has anyone had a dedicated wiring run installed from the electronics cabinet to the roof- for internet booster antenna? ( Not the wifi-Ranger set up. We have a Wilson Booster with Dedicated antenna etc)

-Power steps- Has anyone had any issue with them? They seem "Nice", but is it just another gizmo to break?

-The 2800 watt inverter- What else besides the fridge is on the inverter that it runs?

-Does anyone have the Garmin Rear view camera? Will it transmit 65' without drop out? Our truck has no back glass, so a weak signal at that distance isn't good. Currently, we have a 4 camera system, wired with a 10" monitor in the truck. The monitor allows all 4 cameras to be viewed or any combination.

As I said, we're filling out the build sheet and have questions. If the Suite Owners form was up then I'm positive I could find most of my answers there. But since it's not, it's this forum, 5th wheel forum, Escapee's and many questions asked.

Cummins12V98 · 07-18-2015, 12:26 PM

Personally the Cheap heat is worth having. Was tired of having portable heaters to mess with. The Cheap Heat really does work well. Much better than burning propane on your dime when electricity is provided.

I was convinced the power steps were problematic so I went with the standard 4 step and they are fine, easy to extend and retract.

I have a 1,000 inverter just for the fridge and it kept things cold on a 6 hour trip in 90+ degree weather.

I just have a Verizon JetPack and attached small antenna. Good signal everywhere we have been.

Did not want the backup camera, that is what the wife is for!

ontheroad · 07-18-2015, 12:29 PM

[QUOTE=Walker;14666]We're filling out the build sheet and have several questions concerning "Specials"-

-The 2800 watt inverter- What else besides the fridge is on the inverter that it runs?

-
Have the 2800 watt inverter, it runs most everything except the a/c's. If I was reordering I would ask that the fireplace not be on the inverter. The microwave in also on the inverter which is ok but it pulls too much to use with the inverter. Yes I would get the 2800 again. Would be nice to have 6 batteries but no place to put them. I am planning to add solar which will help. The 2800 does a great job of charging and maintaining the batteries.

Porkchop · 07-18-2015, 01:15 PM

Personally, the cheap heat is a waste of money. The biggest reason I don't ever run the furnace is it sounds like a jet taking off every time it starts and is hard to sleep through. 2 small portable electric heaters is all we have ever needed. Can't hear them run. Put the rest of the money to better use. (sat antenna) Have the 1000w invertor and love it.

Bill

Walker · 07-18-2015, 01:37 PM

I'm listening, keep the ideas coming!

TahoeShark · 07-18-2015, 10:52 PM

Walker,
I like the cheap heat since we often camp in cold climates and I never have to pay for the electricity or keep filling the propane tanks. Definately get the front marine plug so you can plug your truck mounted generator into the front of the coach instead of running it all the way to the back.
We also have the 2800 watt inverter and like it. I would get the 4 agm 300 amphr batteries if still available instead of the Trojan t105's.
Thanks for the ride at the West Coast Rally in Sparks.

Walker · 07-18-2015, 11:33 PM

Your welcome for the ride,
But it wasn't me! We didn't attend the west coast rally, but thanks for your input!

TahoeShark · 07-19-2015, 12:24 AM

Wow,
Sorry about that! Another Walker with a Volvo. Have fun with your order.

Walker · 07-19-2015, 12:31 AM

I walk for a living or at least spending money these days, hence "Walker"
On most of the other forums, I'm/we're Alie&Jim'sCarrilite.

Jeffreys · 07-19-2015, 02:58 PM

[QUOTE=ontheroad;14668]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Walker

We're filling out the build sheet and have several questions concerning "Specials"-

-The 2800 watt inverter- What else besides the fridge is on the inverter that it runs?

-
Have the 2800 watt inverter, it runs most everything except the a/c's. If I was reordering I would ask that the fireplace not be on the inverter. The microwave in also on the inverter which is ok but it pulls too much to use with the inverter. Yes I would get the 2800 again. Would be nice to have 6 batteries but no place to put them. I am planning to add solar which will help. The 2800 does a great job of charging and maintaining the batteries.

Hi Folks

We are also doing our build sheet. I was also wondering if one should get the 1000 watt inverter or pay the extra for the 2800 watt inverter for 8 hour drives refrig use only ? It seems to me the 1000 would be enough for refrig only. But, what do I know.

GeorgiaHybrid · 07-19-2015, 05:15 PM

We had the Cheap Heat system added to our fiver and couldn't be happier with the choice. It works well down to 10 to 15 degrees or so and then starts getting a little behind where you will need to either turn on the fireplace heat or swap it over to propane. If you are paying by the night for a campsite (not metered), you will burn very little propane unless it gets below zero (yes we have been out at -5 F).

We also have the 2800 watt inverter with 4 batteries but would suggest upgrading to AGM instead of wet batteries. As noted above, they run just about everything except the cheap heat and AC systems. It is nice in one way as your satelite dish, TV, microwave and other electrical items will not need a long reboot time when you arrive as they remain on standby power the entire time.

For a longer run time with just the fridge running, turn off everything EXCEPT the fridge in the breaker panel that is dedicated to the inverter.

Walker · 07-19-2015, 07:31 PM

Another question-
Does anyone know who manufactures the main entrance door? We have found that on our Carrilite, the peephole is useless unless someone is standing 5' from the door you can't see down far enough to see someone at the bottom of the steps.
DRV has the option for the solid door or one with a window.
Is there an option on the window beside the cheap opaque insert? Like a tinted window or something better?

Cummins12V98 · 07-19-2015, 10:54 PM

We eliminated the window and peep hole. There is window right next to the door in the slide. If you ask for the peep hole it sounds like they place it too high and is useless.

TahoeShark · 07-19-2015, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Walker

Another question-
Does anyone know who manufactures the main entrance door? We have found that on our Carrilite, the peephole is useless unless someone is standing 5' from the door you can't see down far enough to see someone at the bottom of the steps.
DRV has the option for the solid door or one with a window.
Is there an option on the window beside the cheap opaque insert? Like a tinted window or something better?

They did not offer the tinted window in the door when we ordered so as soon as we got the trailer we had the window frame sprayed black (matches the trailer stripes) and put a piece of dark tinted glass in the opaque window place. Looks just like factory.

FW28z · 07-20-2015, 09:37 AM

Not for DRVs specifically, but owning several boats and now a RV, I have come to a conclusion about stuff that is added to these units.

1. the fewer holes in the roof and sides the better. Anytime you put a hole in the roof or side wall, it becomes a potential source of leaking. The more holes, the more potential leaks, and the more potential the installers do not seal something correctly. So things like vents, skylights, speakers and TVs in the side walls, and the like - if they are build options, are better left off.

2. Anything is prone to breaking on a RV (or boat). If you are not breaking things, you are not using the RV. The more gadgets and stuff you put into it, the more chance you have of breaking something and having to fix it. If things like power steps, additional TVs, etc. are available as options, then I would not order them.

You will have a more spartan coach, but a more reliable one. Of course, you could add some of this stuff later (and probably do a better job at installing it), but when it comes down to it, you are just in a glorified tent.

Joezilla · 07-20-2015, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FW28z

1. the fewer holes in the roof and sides the better. Anytime you put a hole in the roof or side wall, it becomes a potential source of leaking. The more holes, the more potential leaks, and the more potential the installers do not seal something correctly. So things like vents, skylights, speakers and TVs in the side walls, and the like - if they are build options, are better left off.

That is the exact reason we decided to leave off the shower skylight in our new 2016 Atlanta build. One less hole in the roof.

Joe

Beacher · 07-20-2015, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FW28z

Not for DRVs specifically, but owning several boats and now a RV, I have come to a conclusion about stuff that is added to these units.

1. the fewer holes in the roof and sides the better. Anytime you put a hole in the roof or side wall, it becomes a potential source of leaking. The more holes, the more potential leaks, and the more potential the installers do not seal something correctly. So things like vents, skylights, speakers and TVs in the side walls, and the like - if they are build options, are better left off.

....

I take a different approach, (er.... tack)!

I have also owned several cabin cruisers, large sailboats, a PopUp, 5er, and I'm on my third motorhome. The more holes, the better! That especially includes windows, but also ceiling vents and skylights. I like natural light, and fresh air. I hate mold. The more air circulation you can get into your RV, the better, in my opinion.

I'll gladly deal with the minimal "extra" maintenance to prevent leaks. By stuffing ceiling vents with those fuzzy foam inserts, and using reflective foam on windows, you can completely minimize the thermal impact of all those extra holes when desired.

KNMIB · 07-20-2015, 08:12 PM

Are the advantages of a AGM battery worth the cost?

retispcsi · 07-20-2015, 08:53 PM

We have the 2800 inverter/charger. It will work with everything but the ac. The AGM batteries were not offered. We have a 2015 RSSA. I bought watering kit for minting the batteries. We travel and move before it gets close to 40 degrees. The dual heat pumps and fire place work great.

GeorgiaHybrid · 07-21-2015, 02:52 AM

Ours is a 2015 RSSA also with wet batteries that I added a quick watering to as above. The AGM batteries are not that much more and eliminate one more thing to do ....

I didn't get the heat pumps as the are roof mounted with vents in the ceiling....Not the best combination in really cold weather. The Cheap Heat system uses the floor vents just like your regular furnace and the heat will rise in the unit and warm everything fairly well.

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