Tire pressure

[f350ms38rssa]

What tire pressure should I have on the new goodyears on my 18 DRV ?

[golf-bears]

If you have the GY 114s then it's 125 psi.

[f350ms38rssa]

I thought my dealer said only fill them to 110 but I wasn't sure.

[Fulltimer50]

rv_inflation.pdf

Scroll down to the 215/17.5 tire size to get an idea how tire pressure affects load carrying capacity.

[golf-bears]

It's 110 psi if you have the GY 614s. Your 38 ft RV should have the GY 114s??? Check out your tire size.

[Bobi, Dick and Ruby McKee]

We have always had our rigs weighed and adjusted the tire pressure by the inflation chart provided by the tire manufacturer plus 10%. Currently we run 120 psi.

[wingnut60]

Run the 114s at 120-25 and don't worry about them unless you find them losing pressure.
Might consider a TPMS for them, I use TST for truck and trailer.
Joe

[juicesqueezer]

Good question, so I called the factory and talked to a rep last week. I have the 39 RESB3 with the 17.5 rims and he stated 120 lbs cold. However, he recommended to set them at 115 and should be fine.
Now, I have a question; where do you place a jack to change a tire on these units? There is nothing that shows the proper placement. Any help?

[Porthole]

LevelUp

[juicesqueezer]

Originally Posted by Porthole

LevelUp

I tried that and it will not quite lift the tires. Most likely would need to put something under the jacks. However, I did level it up and then took a small bottle jack and lifted the dropped portion of the arm about a 1/2 inch and removed tire. Took it to our local big tire shop and they found a loose valve stem; tighten and we are now good to go. Tourqued the lug nuts to 145 lbs. Factory recommends between 140 and 150. Had to eat a peanut butter sandwich to get some extra energy for that!

[Cummins12V98]

Weigh your tires, use weight/inflation chart add 5psi. Or run at 125psi.

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by juicesqueezer

I tried that and it will not quite lift the tires. Most likely would need to put something under the jacks. However, I did level it up and then took a small bottle jack and lifted the dropped portion of the arm about a 1/2 inch and removed tire. Took it to our local big tire shop and they found a loose valve stem; tighten and we are now good to go. Tourqued the lug nuts to 145 lbs. Factory recommends between 140 and 150. Had to eat a peanut butter sandwich to get some extra energy for that!

If you can’t lift the trailer off the ground - on level ground, you will have trouble sometime down the road with leveling the coach. Uneven ground is likely to give you an ‘out of stroke’ message.

[juicesqueezer]

Originally Posted by Porthole

If you can’t lift the trailer off the ground - on level ground, you will have trouble sometime down the road with leveling the coach. Uneven ground is likely to give you an ‘out of stroke’ message.

Duane, I understand your concerns, but the tires were just touching the ground enough to keep me from pulling that wheel off. Time will tell, but thanks for the insight.

[Travelin' Texans]

[QUOTE=Cummins12V98;120974]Weigh your tires, use weight/inflation chart add 5psi. Or run at 125psi.

"Weigth your tires"??? Then add 5 psi??? I'm confused with the comment!
DRVs are heavy or they wouldn't come with the 114s, so in my opinion start at what it says on the sidewall for max load & adjust to less in small increments not go below about 110-115 psi, it's not rocket science. With IS suspension you'll never notice whether it rides rough or not.
As for jacking it up, get some wooden blocks, Lynx Levelers or something to put under the jacks then they will raise the wheels off the ground. I put a couple of LL under my jacks always just to reduce the stroke & makes the rv feel less shaky.

[Pete'sMH]

He means weigh each side/corner (wheel position) then use the tire manufacturers inflation chart for that weight. For some reason he feels the need to add 5lbs to the manufacturer recommendation. Why would you go all the way to the sidewall max? I’d say start with the yellow Thor recommendation-which is the tire manufacturer’s recommendation for the GVWR and move down from that if you can keep your rig below max.

[rynosback]

Set them at 125 psi (stated on the sticker on the hitch supplied by DRV) or weigh your rig and do as Cummins suggested.

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by juicesqueezer

Duane, I understand your concerns, but the tires were just touching the ground enough to keep me from pulling that wheel off. Time will tell, but thanks for the insight.

Was just a suggestion. After using Levelup for almost 8 years I have lost count how many times the campground was out of level enough so that 1 or 2 tires were off the ground, sometimes several inches.

General question, are the jacks on a DRV bolted on in a postion that does not allow all four wheels to come off the ground several inches?

Before I adjusted my jacks to gain some drive way ground clearance, I was able to lift my coach so that all 4 wheels were about 5" off the ground, with no additional blocks

[Cummins12V98]

" less in small increments not go below about 110-115 psi"

Where do you come up with this?

NOT all DRV's need 125psi to properly carry the load.

Directly from GY Tech if using the weight/inflation chart weigh each tire look up the proper inflation and add 5psi.

I had the 17'5's on my 36' 07.5 DRV and ran 110psi with perfect tire wear.

Proper inflation based on load gives better ride, better stopping power and better tread wear.

On current DRV I run 125psi because I have nearly 18K setting on my 4 tires. Triple axle units most likely do not need MAX inflation.

[Porkchop]

Here's how things work in my world:
I run 110 lbs in my 3 axle tires. That is 5 lbs over what the goodyear load chart indicates. Rides smooth and wears good.
I can, and do, lift all of the tires off the ground using the levelup system. When in use I try and keep the legs as short as possible, by using blocks under rams. Better for stability. No rocking. When in storage I lift all tires off ground to unload suspension. Does that do any good? Don't know. The rams are rated to hold more than double the weight and it makes me feel good. If the rams aren't long enough for the terrain you happen to be on, put some blocks under them. Simple solution.

Bill

[wingnut60]

I have begun using blocks under all the jacks--seems to work better and haven't had any leakdown of front jacks since holding the manual retract buttons about 2-3 secs longer than 'up'--seems silly to have the auto level and still have to do all the additional work, but WTH, if it works...
I do think the less extension of the jacks, the more stable the trailer will be.