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Old 05-06-2018, 02:24 PM   #1
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Brand: DRV
Model: Mobile Suites 38rssa
State: Alaska
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THOR #8691
Trailer disconnected

On my new 17 f350, I keep getting intermittent “trailer disconnected warning”, when I check lights everything is fine. The trailer worked fine with my 15 f350.
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Old 05-06-2018, 05:23 PM   #2
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THOR #3109
Try googling this problem--lots of potential answers will pop up.
You should join the FTE.com forum and maybe there is an answer there.

My trailer just hooked right up and no wiring problems in 26k miles.
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Old 05-06-2018, 05:38 PM   #3
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THOR #8691
Is there any choices in the settings that would have caused it?
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Old 05-06-2018, 05:40 PM   #4
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Had a friend a while back with same trouble.
The truck is sensing the resistance from the brake magnets to tell the trailer is connected.
His trouble was the ground side of the brake magnets were to the trailer frame and he was losing the ground through the ball.

Might not be same for you but just a thought.....

( we fixed it by jumping plug ground wire to the frame)
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Old 05-06-2018, 06:20 PM   #5
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A while back I had a similar problem. In my case it was a loose wire nut in the j box where the cord comes from. Too many wires in nut. Purchase a 6" ground bar from a big box store electrical section and put all the connections in it. Good and solid connections. You don't even need to insulate it when finished. They are all grounds after all. Good luck

Bill
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Old 05-06-2018, 06:22 PM   #6
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Model: 2019 MS 39DBRS3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f350ms38rssa View Post
On my new 17 f350, I keep getting intermittent “trailer disconnected warning”, when I check lights everything is fine. The trailer worked fine with my 15 f350.

I have been seeing that message for 7+ years and over 50K of towing, especially when first hooking up. Always worked though within a few moments.

Can't be a 'magnet' issue - I don't have drum brakes
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Old 05-06-2018, 06:42 PM   #7
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THOR #8691
Positive it isn't trailer related, it worked fine a few weeks ago with my 15 ford, now that I'm hooked to the 17 the problem started!
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Old 05-07-2018, 12:54 AM   #8
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THOR #5558
I would try cleaning the 7 pin connector on the trailer and maybe add a little dielectric grease.

Something I learned with my 2017: Even though the truck will say "Trailer Connected" by seeing the drum or disc brakes, it uses the trailer's brake lights and turn signals to recognize a trailer is connected. Once the trailer is connected, you need to press the brake pedal to turn off the back-up sensors, change the 3 flash lane change to 5 flashes, and turn on the trailer charging circuit. Since my DRV has separate brake lights and turn signals, my truck did not automatically make these changes when connected. I had to manually turn off the back-up sensors when shifting to reverse, only had 3 flashes for a lane change and my trailer batteries were not charging. If I plugged my second trailer (which has combined brake and turn) into the back of the DRV or into the truck by itself, everything worked as it should. I was able to fix this on a trip this winter by plugging a 7 pin circuit tester (7 pin plug with little LED's to show that the circuits are working) into the trailer plug on the back of the DRV. The LED's were apparently enough for the truck to recognize and switch on all the tow features.

Since I like the separate brake and turn on the DRV (always have 4 brake lights even when using the turn signals, and not having the side mounted turn signals coming on with the brakes), I decided to wire up a more permanent fix. I took 2 spare side marker LED's, and connected them to the converter that separates the turn signals from the brake lights. The converter is located in the battery compartment up near the hydraulic pump. I simply connected the spare lights to the truck side of the converter using piggy-back spade connectors. Now the truck recognizes everything automatically, and I have a couple of spare side markers should one burn out.

These darn trucks are just getting too "smart".
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Old 05-07-2018, 10:34 AM   #9
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THOR #8691
Could u take a picture of what u did?
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Old 05-07-2018, 11:58 AM   #10
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THOR #5859
Perhaps the truck set up is not correct. The brakes can be set for electric or electric over hydrolic.
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porkchop View Post
A while back I had a similar problem. In my case it was a loose wire nut in the j box where the cord comes from. Too many wires in nut. Purchase a 6" ground bar from a big box store electrical section and put all the connections in it. Good and solid connections. You don't even need to insulate it when finished. They are all grounds after all. Good luck

Bill
THAT is a great idea!
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Old 05-08-2018, 03:01 AM   #12
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THOR #5558
Sorry, I didn't have time to take any photos today. I will try to post them tomorrow.

Mark
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Old 05-10-2018, 02:43 AM   #13
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Here are the marker lights I added in the battery compartment.
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Old 05-10-2018, 04:03 AM   #14
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THOR #3109
Bill,
Knowing of your electrical background, could you get a picture of the change you made?
Did something similar on my '05 by eliminating the j-box altogether and going to a terminal strip.
Thanks,
Joe
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Old 05-10-2018, 10:31 AM   #15
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THOR #8691
Thanks! I might have more ?s when I actually do it.
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Old 05-10-2018, 03:29 PM   #16
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THOR #1661
I got rid of that possibility by eliminating that light pos box in your pic. I connected my wiring under the pinbox and then at the back connected ALL the lights so the all three come on when braking or turning and lights on each side. Had the factory use only red lights on back. It is wired "old school" now. People see you when more lights are flashing.


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Old 05-10-2018, 10:21 PM   #17
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Model: 44' Santa Fe
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Wing:
I am unable to post pictures yet. Too techy for me. I just bought a small ground bar with enough holes to accept all the wires. 6" I believe, and just shoved it back into the j-box. A terminal strip sounds like a better idea for the rest of the wires though.

Bill
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Old 05-19-2018, 08:27 PM   #18
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THOR #8691
Thanks! I installed the lights And everything works great!
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Old 05-20-2018, 02:01 PM   #19
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Brand: DRV
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THOR #1661
Quote:
Originally Posted by Porkchop View Post
Wing:
I am unable to post pictures yet. Too techy for me. I just bought a small ground bar with enough holes to accept all the wires. 6" I believe, and just shoved it back into the j-box. A terminal strip sounds like a better idea for the rest of the wires though.

Bill
Go to rv.net, Do it your self modifications, good news for picture posting, click "located at this link" now save to bookmarks.

If you have trouble after that let me know. I use this for many web sites.
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Old 09-28-2018, 10:06 PM   #20
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Model: Dallas
State: Texas
Posts: 31
THOR #3440
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr176 View Post
I would try cleaning the 7 pin connector on the trailer and maybe add a little dielectric grease.

Something I learned with my 2017: Even though the truck will say "Trailer Connected" by seeing the drum or disc brakes, it uses the trailer's brake lights and turn signals to recognize a trailer is connected. Once the trailer is connected, you need to press the brake pedal to turn off the back-up sensors, change the 3 flash lane change to 5 flashes, and turn on the trailer charging circuit. Since my DRV has separate brake lights and turn signals, my truck did not automatically make these changes when connected. I had to manually turn off the back-up sensors when shifting to reverse, only had 3 flashes for a lane change and my trailer batteries were not charging. If I plugged my second trailer (which has combined brake and turn) into the back of the DRV or into the truck by itself, everything worked as it should. I was able to fix this on a trip this winter by plugging a 7 pin circuit tester (7 pin plug with little LED's to show that the circuits are working) into the trailer plug on the back of the DRV. The LED's were apparently enough for the truck to recognize and switch on all the tow features.

Since I like the separate brake and turn on the DRV (always have 4 brake lights even when using the turn signals, and not having the side mounted turn signals coming on with the brakes), I decided to wire up a more permanent fix. I took 2 spare side marker LED's, and connected them to the converter that separates the turn signals from the brake lights. The converter is located in the battery compartment up near the hydraulic pump. I simply connected the spare lights to the truck side of the converter using piggy-back spade connectors. Now the truck recognizes everything automatically, and I have a couple of spare side markers should one burn out.

These darn trucks are just getting too "smart".
I just finished making the light connections to my 2015 Dallas just as pictured in your later post using these directions listed here. It worked great. We traded our 2011 F-450 for a new 2018 F-450 and this problem happened with it but not the 2011. The Ford dealer had already checked the truck for problems but none existed. I remembered reading this post a few months ago so I did a search, found it and used your suggestion. l can highly recommend this simple process to fix this problem. Total cost was near $20 bucks and took approximately 20 minutes to complete. Thanks so much for this suggestion.
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