Water pressure

[wingnut60]

Ryan,
Have double-checked my plumbing--ALL water coming in goes to canister filter (only one I have) then over to the Kantleak. From there, water goes everywhere (sometimes literally ) else. Cannot get water into the trailer without going thru the one canister filter.

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by f350ms38rssa

I’m on my second filter in a week, never have had this happen in 20 years of rving!

Are you saying there was visible crud on the first filter? If so this can happen when they do repairs on the Parks water lines.

[Cummins12V98]

Originally Posted by wingnut60

Ryan,
Confused a little here on the filters--ALL the water going in to my DRV goes first to the main canister filter. Thus, any water going into the fresh tank has passed thru that filter. What is the secondary filter being mentioned?
Joe

This is some thing I have not confirmed. Thanks!

That is how it SHOULD be plumbed.

[f350ms38rssa]

Yes there was visible brown crud on filter, nobody near me had problems, I told the campground maintenance man and he didn’t think there was a problem. Now that I’ve switched sites the problem seems to be gone.

[lwmcguire]

Curious if the water came from a frost free hydrant? As already mentioned a water line repair certainly can cause sediment and on a public main creates a boiling water advisory

Water wells drawing down lower than normal can also result in sediment in the main lines

Any major issue should have affected others, however due to hydraulic design maybe you caught the brunt

What was the micron size of your primary filter? And any slick or slimy feel?

The blue hose bib filters are typically 100 micron and pass a lot of sediment on through. Their primary use is just that, enabling your lower micron, more sensitive filter to last longer

[saddlesore]

Originally Posted by rynosback

The only mention of a secondary filter was from a non DRV owner.


.

True I do not have/own a DRV... However just had a neighbor that does and was having ongoing problems with water pressure..
After MUCH investigation(s) by several service ppl. including the dealer and the DRV mfg. Rep..

Found that there was an additional residential "Whole House" filter hidden behind two panels ..
Neither the current owner, the dealer nor the mfg Rep knew that it was there..
THAT Is Why I posted what I did..


flame on

[rynosback]

Originally Posted by saddlesore

True I do not have/own a DRV... However just had a neighbor that does and was having ongoing problems with water pressure..
After MUCH investigation(s) by several service ppl. including the dealer and the DRV mfg. Rep..

Found that there was an additional residential "Whole House" filter hidden behind two panels ..
Neither the current owner, the dealer nor the mfg Rep knew that it was there..
THAT Is Why I posted what I did..


flame on

Well if this is the “additional” filter, where is the primary one? This is a picture of the only water filter that comes in a DRV. If you found another or know of a second one, I love to know about it. The original poster stated in the first post that he had just replaced the house water filter.



Flame off.

[saddlesore]

The filter was "down stream" from the one you posted, behind a panel.It may have been installed by a prior owner of the unit.. They have moved on so cannot take pics

[Cummins12V98]

"Found that there was an additional residential "Whole House" filter hidden behind two panels .."

Kinda funny as the "HIDDEN" filter is the only one that comes with a DRV and as far back as 2007.5 and likely before they have all had one.

The filter in the pic Ryan just posted "IS" the ONLY filter in a DRV. It "IS" behind the sliding panels.

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by kannon

This thread reads like another good reason to run a pre filter/ water softner before water enters our rigs. Was a good seminar on that at the rally in june.

Have any of you checked your filters after Elkhart?
The loop we were on was loaded with iron.
We were there for 2 weeks, I had to replace a new 5 micron sediment filter after one week. Was a nice dark rusty brown.

The second filter looked the same after the second week (I have clear housings) but I didn’t flush out my softener until a week after I got home and this is what I took out.

The second picture is the same filter after being hosed off.

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by f350ms38rssa

A couple days ago my water pressure dropped, so I checked outside and the pressure was fine. So I changed my water filter and it was ok for a couple of days, now it’s low pressure again. Can the water here be so dirty that it’s plugging my filter that fast. I stayed here last year with 0 problems.

The simple answer is yes.

You really don’t know how the CG’s water supply is or what if any changes were made or damage. Or if it was even flushed.

Last year we did a rally in the spring, the section we were in was just opened for the rally.

We all had clogged filters until water was just let run at the end point to flush out the well lines.

[Bob Denman]

Originally Posted by kannon

This thread reads like another good reason to run a pre filter/ water softner before water enters our rigs. Was a good seminar on that at the rally in june.

I completely agree!
I hope that the O.P. is having better luck at the new site...


http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1563718042

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by rynosback

I believe it does. It is not filtered going into the fresh water tank, but gets filtered leaving the tank.

On mine all water comes in through the check valve then directly to the filter inlet. Any water into the fresh water tank goes though that filter.

It is also how I add sanitizer to the fresh water tank.
Remove filter, add sanitizer run for a minute or so put filter back in.

(The above sanitizing is how I use to do it, I have changed my filter arrangement)

[cavie]

Place the pressure Gage on the camp side of the filter.

[MS60ocb]

Originally Posted by rynosback

f.

I admire your Heat Duct running up behind your water filter. My Heat Duct gets crushed between between the Black Tanl and Brake activator. My activator sets on the edge of the plywood. It is real handy there, but some day I hope to move it back about a foot.


Regarding the water at Elkhart, didn't have a problem but I haven't checked my filter.



Clay 2016 MS 38PS3/Dallas #8120

[DELPELL]

Our water pressure reduces because the check valve in the pump malfunction and allows city water to back up into the fresh water tank.

[Porthole]

Originally Posted by MS60ocb

I admire your Heat Duct running up behind your water filter. My Heat Duct gets crushed between between the Black Tanl and Brake activator. My activator sets on the edge of the plywood. It is real handy there, but some day I hope to move it back about a foot.


Regarding the water at Elkhart, didn't have a problem but I haven't checked my filter.



Clay 2016 MS 38PS3/Dallas #8120

When you consider moving the activator look at the transfer switch, that’s usually pushed all the way back so that there is a proper obstruction for the 6” flex duct for the floor registers.

If the duct isn’t crushed halfway somebody screwed up.

And there should be enough wire to move those two outlets to the opposite side and out of the filter splash zone.

[MS60ocb]

Originally Posted by Porthole

look at the transfer switch, that’s usually pushed all the way back so that there is a proper obstruction for the 6” flex duct for the floor registers.
And there should be enough wire to move those two outlets to the opposite side and out of the filter splash zone.

I lost heat to the Bedroom and Bathroom about the first time I filled the Black Tank. Lucky to be in Mesa AZ for the winter. About 6 months later, the factory rerouted a gas line, the electric service cable and moved the transfer switch towards the back as wiring provided. After a year of that my propane usage started increasing, I tribute that to low air flow resulting poorer furnace efficiency. I moved the built in vacuum forward about 4 inches. Helped some but partial collapsed ducts still existed so some light weight ducts were replaced with metal. The furnace elevation change to the plywood above the Grey tank was hard in the flex duct.. A couple Elbows, Pipe and Tape helped cut my propane use to about half.

My Black tank is very close to the DS wall and Black & Grey are up against
the Sliding door. They should have reduced the cargo space a couple inches to allow a couple inches for equipment. That would solved a few problems for me.

This kinda HiJacked the forum but it is just a difference pressure problem.

Clay 2016 MS 38PS3/Dallas

[Wolf8U]

By chance, is the place you're at have well water? If so have they replaced the pump recently, that will cause a lot of sediment for a week or so, or construction nearby?

[oldbird]

Another OT but sorta related. At a very low water pressure CG, is there a solution? The WP in my last 5er would allow me to use the WP to help boost water pressure. Can't remember the brand of that WP, my present WP (Shurflo 4048) will not allow me to do that. I just fill my tank and use my WP at low water pressure CG's.