2016 ace 27.1

[Beatlesman]

Greetings,
We recently traded our 2015 Axis 24.1 for a 2016 ACE 27.1. After 12K miles and almost 7 months traveling in the Axis, we were able to identify what areas we felt were lacking for us in the smaller RUV. So far we have spent three days at MHS RV in Texas and another three days traveling home in the ACE. The extra space, larger shower, walk around king bed, leveling jacks, and lower cabinet/microwave placement because of the kitchen-side slide addressed the majority of our wants. Upon taking delivery we were especially pleased to find the fit and finish of the ACE were greatly improved over the 2015 Axis.

The ACE is approximately three feet longer and a foot taller than the Axis. The experience of driving it back to Iowa from Texas was not eventful. The handling was somewhat different because of the larger profile but not an issue of concern. I plan on doing the CHF (cheap handling fix) and installing a Saf-T-Plus steering stabilizer before our extended travels this winter.

I would like to receive some tips about leveling jacks. Do I need to chock the wheels? Are the any other procedures I need to follow when deploying the jacks?

Thank you in advance for any information.

Dennis and Carol

[EA37TS]

Dennis and Carol

Congrats on the upgrade.

The biggest issue with the leveling jacks is the often for some, periodically for others, low voltage error when turning the leveling jacks control panel on. If you receive that error turn the system off for about 30 seconds and then back on again. I receive the error periodically and it is usually when I turn the jack power on too soon after starting the engine.

If you did not receive the manual for the leveling jack system go to Lippert Components website and download the manual for the Level Up system. The manual exceeds the allowable size for uploading to the forum or I would attach the file. The Lippert support center is at this link

Technical Support Center and Videos

[Mr Sunshine]

Congrats on your purchase and welcome to the forum! Before the CHF and the steering stabilizer, get an alignment with the coach loaded for normal travel.

I have chock a motor home for the jacks, but always set the emergency brake. In soft ground you might want a pad under each jack. Be smart and read the directions.

Bring your questions here, lots of good experience willing to help.

[Texan]

Hi and welcome,
I have had my 27.1 for a 6 months or so now, couple of things I have learned...

Originally setting the jacks using the "Auto" button would raise the coach to far, leaving some tires off the ground. But after resetting the zero point (follow procedure in the manual) this is no longer a problem. I've never been in a position of having the need of a wheel chock.

Check the position of the Lippert Components 13398-C2 Dual Motor Synchronous Velocity Slide Controller and move it if needed. Mine was mounted in one of the bays directly below a hole and a bunch of wires leading into the rear wheel bay. 1st rain storm and module filled with water from the spray off the rear tire and died, moved the "new" unit to the inner wall and resealed the hole with more spray foam.

Remove the rear tail lights and seal the bare wood area, as the foam seals around the light clusters are prone to leak badly and eventually rots out your rear wall.

If you have the old style grill... I added a rock/bug guard to the chrome slot doors. Using plastic gutter guard, comes in a 20' roll $4 from lowes.

Always keep your finger on the retract/extend slide button for 4 sec after the motors stop making any sound. This keeps the slide Synchronized.

Load your MH as you would for a trip and get the wheel alignment done asap, makes a big difference to the handling and abnormal tire wear. Ford does offer 1 free alignment prior to 12mths/12k miles. None of the local Ford dealers could fit my MH in their bays but with prior approval I went elsewhere, then took the receipt back to Ford for a refund.

Also look into the "cheap handling fix" CHF, took about an hour to do and the MH is a pleasure to drive now.

Put some tape around the top and bottom of the table supports, this stops that squeaking when in motion.

Keep the "store/use" switch in use while driving as this charges the house batteries. And put into store if not being used for a few days... radio/gas detector and other stuff are still live and putting a drain on your batteries.

Really enjoying our 27.1 but there quite a "to do" list of preventative/upgrade things, learned from others on this and other forums.

Have fun and be safe
Tex.

[JamieGeek]

Originally Posted by Texan

Remove the rear tail lights and seal the bare wood area, as the foam seals around the light clusters are prone to leak badly and eventually rots out your rear wall.

Yeah do this: All the Thor's use the same taillight fixtures. You can see what my solution to the issue is here:
http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f27...axis-1433.html

Originally Posted by Texan

Load your MH as you would for a trip and get the wheel alignment done asap, makes a big difference to the handling and abnormal tire wear. Ford does offer 1 free alignment prior to 12mths/12k miles. None of the local Ford dealers could fit my MH in their bays but with prior approval I went elsewhere, then took the receipt back to Ford for a refund.

I also recommend this (x2).

[Ed-Helen pns]

We have had ours for about 2 years. Ditto what Texan said about the Lippert slide control box in the storage bin. Ours also was filled with water and had to replace it. Luckily the slide was closed when it failed. The new one now has the wires facing down and the hole resealed.
I carry 2 2x12's to put under the front tires when the wheels are off the ground after leveling. Just make sure the rear wheels do not come off the ground as they are the parking brake.
Look for some small type of shower curtain rod to place between the kitchen sliding cabinet and the cabinet across from it. We have had slide open turning corners and the slide cabinet put a indentation in the one across the hallway.
I also developed a check list on what to do when setting up and getting ready to leave. It seems the list gets longer after each new experience. The last one was "remove the dog kennels from underneath before lowering the RV". It may seem redundant to have a checklist but pilots have one and use it before every flight. A stupid mistake such as leaving the antenna up will cost more than a few bucks.
We also use the children sliding locks on the cabinet above the sink. It makes a mess when it pops open and a Corelle plate shatters into about a thousand pieces.
Have fun and safe travels

[Texan]

Morning,

X2 on the Pantry draw, I found a lock/clasp of sorts at Lowes. It looks like a upside down J made of brass, works well.

[Forest Grump]

We bought our 27.1 for many of the same reasons and love it. We did find that there was some body sway in very high side winds. We added front and rear trac bars and front Summo Springs since these winds are common in the areas we travel. They seem to do the job. Came up El Cajon Pass with cross winds 20 to 40 mph and didn't know it till we stopped. We also had the front and rear aligned and 4 corners weighed.

[Beatlesman]

Thanks to all of you for your comments. I did order the Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer from PPL yesterday. Their website also listed a recommended boot (#94-625) for the the unit. I ordered the boot from another company and received an e-mail today cancelling my order. The part was no longer available. I contacted Safe-T-Plus and was told they discontinued the part a year ago. It isn't needed. The refund will help our Christmas shopping budget!

Dennis and Carol

[Beatlesman]

Just got back from having front end alignment, CHF on front, and Safe-T-Plus installed on the new 27.1 ACE. $104. I drove 5 miles home on highway and could notice some improvement. When I looked under the RV at the sway bars I noticed they did not change the rear bar. After lunch I took it back and they switched the rear for $17 and change. The return trip it was much better driving with a moderate wind on an uneven two lane. Worth the $121 to have it done.

Thank all of you for the helpful suggestions.

Dennis and Carol

[rivraton]

Originally Posted by Ed-Helen pns

Look for some small type of shower curtain rod to place between the kitchen sliding cabinet and the cabinet across from it. We have had slide open turning corners and the slide cabinet put a indentation in the one across the hallway.

Or you can install one of these:
http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f3/...html#post11820

[rackman]

Jensen JRV212T. STOPPED WORKING????
The U shaped wires don't work. What next.
I'very tried all I know.
Screen is blank.