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Old 11-15-2017, 11:50 PM   #1
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Venture Axle Swap?

Since I've got a Toyhauler that could use some more (A whole LOT more...) carrying capacity: is it possible (economically feasible!), to swap out the E-450 DRW axle, and nail one in place from an F-53 chassis?

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Old 11-15-2017, 11:56 PM   #2
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and strengthen the frame and get bigger springs and extra wide fenders to cover the wheels on the wider axle?

Certainly possible. Not economically feasible or even advisable.


Time to trade already?
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:45 AM   #3
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I presume you are talking about a Class C toy hauler?

I guess my recommendation would be to price it all out and then
sit down and decide if the investment is worth it to you.

Then you can figure out if you are better swapping parts vs trading
up to maybe a Super-C toy hauler.
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Old 11-16-2017, 01:29 AM   #4
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Plus, even if you did spend the money for such a swap, it would most likely reduce the trade-in value / resale in my opinion. Super C with the F550 time?
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Old 11-16-2017, 01:39 AM   #5
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Alas you'd have to get something else than a Thor as Thor doesn't currently sell a new Super-C toyhauler--have to look for a used one.

Or you could go for broke and get one of these custom made:
MOTORHOMES - Showhauler Motorhome Conversions

or a Haulmark:
http://www.haulmarkmotorcoach.com/motor-garage/
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Old 11-16-2017, 02:12 AM   #6
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If you're seriously thinking about extra CCC like that ... think about an air ride suspension swap at the same time. I've seen a few modified rigs and talked to several folks that have increased weight ratings safely and a few others scare me. Those that replaced steel springs with air ride conversions were the ones happiest with the end result.

There are a few choices for Air Ride Conversions and for one example specification, the "HAS 120" is 12000lb rated and in-line with some of the F-53 axle options I'd see relevant to the topic.

Only you can decide if your rig is the perfect one to make a conversion venture worth while for you ...
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Old 11-16-2017, 03:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Since I've got a Toyhauler that could use some more (A whole LOT more...) carrying capacity: is it possible (economically feasible!), to swap out the E-450 DRW axle, and nail one in place from an F-53 chassis?

Two options that might work on a practical basis:

1) Go through everything you haul regularly and leave much of it at home on a future trip. You'll find most of us carry more than we need. Getting rid of stuff we don't use often is easier than upgrading to a larger RV.

2) To carry a lot more stuff, consider towing an enclosed cargo trailer.



By the way, I'm curious what your actual axle weights are, and also how much extra CCC you are looking to carry.
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Old 11-16-2017, 01:16 PM   #8
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Thanks guys!
I'm sort of pitching around some ideas in my head, because the axle's carrying capacity is the ONLY thing about the Outlaw 29H that we're not happy about.
I couldn't afford a larger rig, and I'm pretty sure that driving one would be equally impossible.
Towing a trailer will end up putting us at about 48 feet in length... I wouldn't be comfortable with towing. (and I bought the Toy-Hauler to negate the need for a trailer...)
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Old 11-16-2017, 03:23 PM   #9
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I can't follow what Thor designers (and engineers if they actually used any, which I seriously doubt) were thinking when they develop such a motorhome.

If you start at 14,500 pounds maximum weight under ideal conditions, and then reduce that by the 1,500 pounds that the garage is rated to carry, it leaves only 13,000 pounds for the motorhome, people, their personal stuff, plus some fluids in tanks that are not normally included.

Even if it's just two adults that travel light, I'd have to guess they'd need at least 1,000 pounds for themselves and personal cargo, food, etc. That then leaves 12,000 pounds maximum for motorhome if the garage is to be usable at rated capacity.

Is that reasonable? Compared to much smaller Axis/Vegas that weigh that much or more, how can a motorhome almost 31-feet long with a larger slide be kept under 12,000 pounds?

I know that it's probably "possible" to get to maximum 1,500-pound garage rating without exceeding the 14,500-pound GVWR, but would it be practical? Would it require the MH to be essentially empty? Do most buyers have this same "overloaded rear axle" issue?

I'd bet this is a common problem, but hope I'm wrong and that Bob is an exception.
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Old 11-16-2017, 03:55 PM   #10
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(The Outlaw weighs about 12,250 dry...)
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Old 11-16-2017, 05:30 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
(The Outlaw weighs about 12,250 dry...)
So with a full garage, you're up to 13,750 pounds. That leaves 750 pounds or less for everything else.

Like I said, this kind of design doesn't make sense to me; but then much in RV industry doesn't.
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Old 11-16-2017, 05:42 PM   #12
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I know that I could stuff some SumoSprings under the rear of the rig; but it wouldn't help with the anemic axle capacity...
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Old 11-16-2017, 06:54 PM   #13
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That's correct, SumoSprings would only address spring capacity.

In this case even if axle is upgraded, tires and rims would remain limited. And as mentioned previously by Tfryman, the frame (chassis rails) would likely also need upgrading.
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Old 11-16-2017, 06:58 PM   #14
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Tires and rims are easy... 22.5" setup off of a Class A should do it!

Unless of course: Frame modifications would render this exercise impossible!
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Old 11-16-2017, 07:21 PM   #15
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There'll need to be some more thought put into the tires and wheels...
There's almost a 9" difference in overall diameter!
The Class A stuff would never fit under the bodywork!
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Old 11-16-2017, 11:13 PM   #16
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When they give you an axle capacity, it is the capacity of the axle, springs, mounts, wheels, tires, etc. If you are under capacity everything has to be changed, not just adding sumo springs etc. But you have to look at how far over are you? and even if you change it all out, and get a safety stop with weight, your cap plate will still say you are unsafe.
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Old 11-16-2017, 11:28 PM   #17
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The question of wheels and tires DOES have a workable answer:

https://ricksontruckwheels.com/wheels-ford-e350450.php

The remaining question: Does this mean that the axles, their housing, and the differential are the weakest link?
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Old 11-17-2017, 12:14 AM   #18
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Well that's one thing you can't go wrong with in my book ... I've used Rickson wheels and they really help with the heavies Certainly helps increase safety relative to tires and that's a really good thing for everybody! Now if you can convince yourself that the tires are reason for the axle rating ... all good ... right? LoL
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Old 11-17-2017, 12:25 AM   #19
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Tires and wheels are NOT the reason for an axle rating. The axle is rated by its engineered standards. The springs, wheels and tires are selected to match/compliment the axle rating.
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Old 11-17-2017, 01:18 PM   #20
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It sounds as if it's time to start looking for a shop that can build a really STOUT rear-end...
This part is easy: look at the off-roading marketplace!
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