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Old 07-26-2018, 10:50 PM   #21
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more to chew on...

Quote:
Originally Posted by edanddonna View Post
Thanks everyone we appreciate all your knowledge, thoughts and opinions. Today the Thor service center continued to work on our air conditioner. After testing, no surprise that it tested with in guidelines. They did discover it freezes after 5 minutes. They managed to get approval to swap out our air conditioner. We are very excited to find out if it cools better. We will let you know[emoji4]

Ask the Thor techs to make sure the air ducts (just a channel in the ceiling foam) are clear of any debris. Ours had chunks of foam from when the vent outlets were hole-sawed. It's not uncommon. With the AC out it's easy to shine a light from one end to the other.

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Old 07-26-2018, 11:19 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by gnach View Post
Ask the Thor techs to make sure the air ducts (just a channel in the ceiling foam) are clear of any debris. Ours had chunks of foam from when the vent outlets were hole-sawed. It's not uncommon. With the AC out it's easy to shine a light from one end to the other.
Thanks! I will have them check.
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Old 07-27-2018, 10:24 AM   #23
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Have they vacuumed the duct work? Our 2016 ACE wouldn't cool and dealer found tons of sawdust in ducts. This being said on very hot hot days 15k really isn't enough. In going to put a thin insulation in cabinets you can feel heat. Also on hot day you can feel heat come through walls. Unfortunately they are not well insulated.
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:28 AM   #24
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You can place the outdoor sensor of an indoor/outdoor thermometer near the front of the cab and see a huge difference in temperature from the middle of the camper. This radiant heat eats up the cool air the flows along the floor. It's almost like a vacuum of the cool air. I saw a post a few weeks back where they installed solid wall to wall, floor to ceiling curtains directly behind the front seats, closing off the front of the coach. It was an immediate difference in temps. Plus, they could close them underway and help the dash a/c better cool the front cab. Glass is the enemy and you have plenty of it.
This is what we have done and it makes a tremendous difference in both scenarios.
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Old 08-04-2018, 06:42 PM   #25
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The Coleman Mach 15,000 btu is not cooling our 2017 ACE 29.3. We are currently at Thor Factory Service center and have many issues fixed. Only issue left is this air conditioner. It does put out cold air. Today was 86, six hours with the air running the coolest it got in our coach was 80. Humidity was only 56percent. They tell us nothing is wrong. They have checked/taped all the vents, even moved the thermistor. We use reflective on the windows. We think there is something wrong with this unit and they should swap it. What are your opinions?
We too have the same year and model and A/C is hopeless, especially in the bedroom, and the 30 amp system means we cannot add another. So we went off to Lowe’s, bought a household LG unit and hard wired it to the socket at camp grounds. We cut a wood frame which secured the exit hose to the front passenger window. Works a treat.
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Old 08-04-2018, 07:12 PM   #26
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Is your AC fan running at high speed?
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Old 08-04-2018, 07:31 PM   #27
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I think so but the ducting does not seem to allow much airflow to the back.
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Old 08-04-2018, 09:03 PM   #28
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When it's hot, we close the duct in the bathroom and if we are in the front, we close the ducts in the bedroom. Of course we only have a 27K, but the 13,000 BTU AC does an excellent job on shore power or with the generator. We have run the AC in very hot and humid weather many times.
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Old 08-04-2018, 09:13 PM   #29
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We have a 35 M Hurricane with two 13,500 unit in Arizona. I had fits trying to keep the coach livable. With both ACs running full tilt it never would cool down to reasonable. I bought a ceiling track online and a set of blackout curtains at Wal-Mart and hung them just behind the driver and passenger seats. I noticed a difference immediately in the temperature of the coach. I reached into the drivers bay for something and it felt like it was a pizza oven. It's cheap and easy and it works for me not saying it is right for everyone.
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Old 08-04-2018, 10:51 PM   #30
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The a/c is OK in the main cabin but even if we close every vent in the front and bathroom, it is still pathetic at the back. But the Lowe’s LG machine helps a lot. Should have bought 50 amp!
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Old 08-04-2018, 11:18 PM   #31
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We left Thor soon after they swapped the Air unit. We have not tested it out yet since we got home. We have a short trip coming up in the next two weeks so will let everyone know if the air is any better. I'm not optimistic. I do have to say the guys at Thor Service Center we're amazing. Mike McKee and Mike Pierce went above and beyond to fix everything.
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Old 08-04-2018, 11:22 PM   #32
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Here's to hoping that they can keep you guys cool...


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Old 08-04-2018, 11:48 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by ppsafetyman View Post
We have a 35 M Hurricane with two 13,500 unit in Arizona. I had fits trying to keep the coach livable. With both ACs running full tilt it never would cool down to reasonable. I bought a ceiling track online and a set of blackout curtains at Wal-Mart and hung them just behind the driver and passenger seats. I noticed a difference immediately in the temperature of the coach. I reached into the drivers bay for something and it felt like it was a pizza oven. It's cheap and easy and it works for me not saying it is right for everyone.
Thanks for the info. Thinking this is one step we will need to take.
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Old 08-04-2018, 11:52 PM   #34
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Great advice. Thanks.
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Old 08-05-2018, 01:31 AM   #35
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I added an AC in the bedroom and and separate 30 amp connection. Works well. A single unit for the 29.3 is just not enough. Also insulated the front cap with Reflectix and batt insulation and also made a sunshade from Reflectix to keep the blaring sun from heating up through the windshield, makes a huge difference.
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Old 08-05-2018, 01:33 AM   #36
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We agree!
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Old 08-05-2018, 01:38 AM   #37
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Here is a HUGE thing you need to do. When I was insulating the front cap I found out that they did not block the AC runs after the last vent, it runs straight up into the cap! Same at the back, it runs into the wall at the back but is not blocked off. Pull your vent and stick a stiff wire down the run towards the cap and you will see what I mean. I cut a piece of insulation foam and used some aluminum tape to seal them off, that also made a pretty significant difference. Everyone I know with an ACE has this and I am betting you do to and if you are at the factory ask them to check it an tell them they need to CORRECT IT!
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Old 08-05-2018, 01:43 AM   #38
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Thank you SO much
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Old 08-05-2018, 01:54 AM   #39
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An upgrade you might want to look into in the future is the thermostat. This is the one I installed but partially because I add the heat option to the AC unit.https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Mach-...-W-p/65659.htm the nice thing is the thermostat has a 2* swing instead of 7 or 8 on the one that comes with the unit. Doesnt matter on the ac but it sure does on the heat.
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Old 08-05-2018, 01:58 AM   #40
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Many thanks
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