CAUTION!!: Double Check Trailer Hitch

[ACEroad]

The three previous posts were a mouth full (keyboard full) and I am sure it will generate several comments. But first I need to sleep a bit.

Thanks for reading my lengthy post.

[ACEroad]

Look at how some of the Curt hitches are made with a long arm on each side that bolts farther forward on the frame.

[ACEroad]

Just got a chance to check my 2018 Challenger 37 YT. The RV extension frame rails were box welded from the factory. That should take of the possibility of frame tears. The hitch is LCI 8000# Class IV. Pulling a 3100# toad. I am using a four inch drop hitch which greatly reduces the torsional stress as compared to the 8 inch drop hitch as pictured in the last failure on this post. I am either going to trade to a toad that does not require a drop hitch (already been looking at a New Colorado pickup) or will replace the hitch with one similar to the Curt pictured above with longer mounting flanges. Those long mounting flanges will distribute the torsional stress over a much larger area. Past the word to other RV'ers this could happen any RV using a drop hitch, especially a long drop hitch.

[Chance]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

I have to believe something is amiss in your setup though. Many, many folks use drop hitches and tow even heavier loads without the kind of problems you are having. It may not be a stellar design but lots of people do it and you certainly are operating within specs. And to have it happen twice??! I think I’d be looking to verify that your toad braking system is actually working like it’s supposed to. Good luck

A major variable to consider is driving style. If motorhome brakes are applied quickly and hard, the force transmitted through drop hitch is much much higher than if MH brakes are applied gradually and softly. Also, not all toad braking systems probably react at same speed.

For this reason I would not assume that just because similar hitches haven’t failed on other motorhomes (yet), that they are OK.

Keep in mind that none have failed right away, right? It’s taken many many cycles to get to failure, suggesting a fatigue component. And with steel, staying below a certain critical stress will allow the receiver to last indefinitely. Just saying that the difference in stress between those that have failed and those that haven’t may not be that great.

[Hoosier 26]

@ACEroad

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I think you are right on the money. LCI has agreed to replace the hitch under warranty. I think I will pass on the same version and just ask for a credit toward a 10K hitch with more robust design. I have not done any research yet to find a longer fore and aft flange to attach to the frame of the coach. I think spreading this force out and lengthening the bolt pattern will be the difference maker. If anyone has thoughts on a model of hitch that would accomplish this I would like to hear about it. I am also thinking of going to a 6in drop to help reduce the forces. This would put me 2inches out of level but still within BlueOx tolerances.

As always this forum is amazing and I appreciate all the feedback. All opinions are welcome. Thanks.

[Chance]

While RV shopping yesterday, I happen to notice this Reese receiver installed on Ford F-53 chassis. Unfortunately, I forgot to look at trailer and tongue weight ratings (was only looking at this RV’s bike garage which caught my eye).

This motorhome doesn’t have a frame extension, so receiver is bolted directly to Ford chassis frame rails. I’m not sure if it’s stronger as installed, but at least it doesn’t stress the channel flanges that have failed.

Note in picture that bumper is bolted off receiver. Anyway, just another style to ask about. For what it’s worth, I would have installed a little different.

[Chance]

This is looking from other side.

[The Gritz Carlton]

Is that a new motorhome in the picture? There sure is a lot of rust already going on under there.

[Chance]

Built Sept 2013, so 5 years old.

[ACEroad]

Hoosier 26
Look at the 10:56 PM post I made yesterday as it has a pic from Curt that used this design. Many of the higher rater hitches are made similar. Going to Class V hitch goes to ratings 20,000# plus but most have a 2.5" receiver. Some do make the Class V hitch with a 2" receiver or a reducer sleeve may used. Jumping to Class V hitch with this style and making sure the frame rails are boxed should eliminate the failure issue. Considering how RV's may pull a toad tens of thousands of miles, some with drop down hitches, may not of even evaluated by the hitch makers. More normal towing is for occasional use. I have a pickup truck that has a Class IV hitch that I have used for 23 years without any issue. It has been abused with loads as much as 13,000# and pulled several thousand miles of heavy loads, not tens of thousands of miles as with a toad. Never used a drop hitch at all. Hope this helps.

[ACEroad]

Hoosier 26
Let us know what you end with. Thanks

[The Gritz Carlton]

Posted on another thread as well:


Interestingly enough I had dinner with my attorney last night and discussed a number of issues. It just so happened he got involved with a death-related accident (entire family) a few years ago that was related to a motorhome towing a boat. Hitch broke, boat and trailer went through front of a small car...rest of the story you can figure out. The end result and culprit/blame was the use of a "drop down hitch" installed by MH owner. Drop hitch extension was 8" and it was claimed to have changed the dynamics of the original design of hitch which is designed to work against horizontal forces. The use of the drop down changed this range of force to an arc or fulcrum, thus weakening the metal over time and resulting in the failure. It was stated that most certified hitches are designed to withstand a minimum 140% of rated capacity. The 8" drop down extension actually reduced the original capacity to less than 65%. This isn't my opinion. This is what came out of a 4 month legal action that resulted in the MH owner having his life changed forever and $2.5M settlement to the estate of the deceased. Whatever you do to your hitch...have your system inspected with your modifications/drop downs/etc., in-place before hitting the road.

[JamieGeek]

Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton

Posted on another thread as well:


Interestingly enough I had dinner with my attorney last night and discussed a number of issues. It just so happened he got involved with a death-related accident (entire family) a few years ago that was related to a motorhome towing a boat. Hitch broke, boat and trailer went through front of a small car...rest of the story you can figure out. The end result and culprit/blame was the use of a "drop down hitch" installed by MH owner. Drop hitch extension was 8" and it was claimed to have changed the dynamics of the original design of hitch which is designed to work against horizontal forces. The use of the drop down changed this range of force to an arc or fulcrum, thus weakening the metal over time and resulting in the failure. It was stated that most certified hitches are designed to withstand a minimum 140% of rated capacity. The 8" drop down extension actually reduced the original capacity to less than 65%. This isn't my opinion. This is what came out of a 4 month legal action that resulted in the MH owner having his life changed forever and $2.5M settlement to the estate of the deceased. Whatever you do to your hitch...have your system inspected with your modifications/drop downs/etc., in-place before hitting the road.

To be fair: I'm sure the motorhome's owner realized that their life changed forever the moment the accident happened (and if not then as soon as they realized people--a family!--died as a result).

[The Gritz Carlton]

No question...some things just immediately shut you down...loss of someone's life trumps the list and I'm sure his life flashed before him the moment that happened.

[ACEroad]

That pretty well sums up the solution with a legal and loss of life eye opening twist. Hope this gets out to every RV'er that uses a dropdown hitch. Let's all try to spread the word to friends and thru campsites that this is a serious issue. Thanks

Note to forum team: Is their a way to get this out as a safety warning to all of the forum?

[Hoosier 26]

AceRoad and all,

I am a State Farm Insurance and Financial Services Agent in PA. I can assure you that I know too well the liability risk we are taking by driving these large rigs down the highway. My advice is talk with your insurance provider and make sure you have appropriate liability coverage. Look at your current net worth, your future earning potential and don’t skimp on this coverage. In PA the average 50 year old can get 1 million in excess liability coverage (above your motorhome policy, autos and home) for $150-$200 per year. If you have youthful drivers at home your cost will be higher. This one towing issue alone is reason to look in to the coverage. I have seen many things in 18 years of business and never had anyone unhappy about being properly covered.

Back to fixing the issue. Lippert Components says they will warranty the hitch. The catch is that I have to send it back to them at my cost. They want to test the metal and if the steel is defective they will cover all costs of my repair including the shipping. I am disinclined to take advantage of this offer because I believe the issue is not the steel but the design of the system. I am currently talking to two high quality towing retailers with fabrication shops. I’m going to let both look at it and go with the shop that wins my trust. This is not a price bid issue because I can’t put a price on my financial safety. Which ever shop designs a fix I can trust will get my business. I will let you know how this works out although it could be several weeks due to football season.

By the way, my son had a great first High School scrimmage. He threw three TD passes and had a nice run too.

Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this discussion. I’ll be back with the resolution when I can provide pictures and full details. Happy travels!

[JamieGeek]

Kind of relevant to this: While driving around today stopped at a light we saw a class C being towed by a tow truck. I could swear it looked like the tow truck lifted the rear of the C by just grabbing the hitch! So the rear end was a good 4' - 5' off the ground lifted by the hitch.

[Hoosier 26]

To all,

I have my 2017 37TB back and I am very pleased with the new hitch set-up. I believe this is the hitch that should have come on the unit to begin with. Both shop owners that I spoke with regarding how to fix this issue just shook their heads when they saw the wimpy hitch on the Challenger. They were not surprised but still didn’t believe that it could really be rated at what Thor is listing in the specs.

This new custom built hitch cost me just under $600 installed. I will attach photos to this post. What you will see is a much more robust design, thicker metal and a longer mounting rail using 4 bolts instead of three. Everything about this hitch is better. The owner of the shop and designer of this solution said if this breaks he wants to go on a trip with me to see how I’m using it. I don’t have a trip planned until Christmas/New Years so I will use the time to clean up a few other nagging issues like the auto genstart and rusting bolts holding the cargo door catches and gas struts.

While they were at it I had them check the attachment point of the frame extension. They said everything looked good there but that it is not impossible for that to become an issue. I hope not but will remain vigilant.

[Hoosier 26]

I took some photos of my original hitch after it was removed. It is scary to see just how close I came to losing my toad.

[Hoosier 26]

As you can see the new hitch mounting surface is at least three times as long as the old hitch. Also it has more metal thickness and surface area in the sides of the hitch. I think this will help to fight the rotational forces that are created by the 8” drop hitch. This design is currently in use by another RVer that tows a mid sized pickup with no braking system on a 10” drop hitch. I feel confident that my hitch woes are over. Please comment if anyone has concerns or questions about this design. Thanks.