Class C vs Class A drivability

JamJanTan · 10-09-2017, 11:19 PM

I have a Thor 29FE Class C. It drives handles and maneuvers fine. I read all these stories about safe-t-plus, anti sway bars, sumo springs, and other suspension upgrades. Is a Class A much harder to handle than a Class C. I have 30 foot coach on an E450 chassis and no problems. I have not driven in extreme cross winds but most of the time I hardly notice semis and have driven in some winds. Did I just happen upon a good handling rig? I have made no suspension upgrades at all. What's the scoop?

SuperD · 10-09-2017, 11:26 PM

A & C drive a little differently. A is more top heavy, C carries more of the weight down low. F-450 drives a little better than an F-53 in my opinion. Once you get used to it you really don’t give it a second thought. I’ve had class A gas and diesel both along with a couple of class C’s, there is a difference but not enough that it would be a deciding factor if I were purchasing.

Wonderdog · 10-09-2017, 11:43 PM

Haven't had any of the suggested on my class c or the Axis. It drives fine, semis don't bother me and it's much quieter than my old class c. If driving conditions due to wind and/or rain deteriorate too much I just slow down a bit.
I think some people are bothered more than others in weather and traffic.

Chance · 10-10-2017, 01:35 AM

It's often suggested by many that owners with RV problems are more likely to report them than those who are happy with their RV reporting that they have few or no issues.

Likewise, I would bet the same happens with reporting handling-related upgrades. Those with issues report them, while those who find their motorhomes handle adequately have little reason to report that they are not having problems. I personally expect that the majority of motorhomes on the road have fairly stock suspensions.

WarEagleDan · 10-10-2017, 01:42 AM

I was absolutely amazed at the difference in the Class C Jayco Greyhawk I had (and I liked that Greyhawk!) and my 2017 Windsport. 1) The Greyhawk took all your attention all the time - if your mind wandered, it did too. My Windsport is not near as demanding - it's much more pleasant to drive. 2) You can't drive a Class C by yourself because you can't see out of it. You can't see what's to your left without opening the door and stepping out on the running boards. And forget seeing anything to your right! I have great visibility in my Windsport. 3) The Greyhawk could hardly get out of its own way. The Windsport is hardly a rocket but it has much better get up and go than the Greyhawk did. In short, the Class A is a little longer and a little taller but has much better drivability than a Class C!
Thanx,
Dan

Pete'sMH · 10-10-2017, 01:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WarEagleDan

I was absolutely amazed at the difference in the Class C Jayco Greyhawk I had (and I liked that Greyhawk!) and my 2017 Windsport. 1) The Greyhawk took all your attention all the time - if your mind wandered, it did too. My Windsport is not near as demanding - it's much more pleasant to drive. 2) You can't drive a Class C by yourself because you can't see out of it. You can't see what's to your left without opening the door and stepping out on the running boards. And forget seeing anything to your right! I have great visibility in my Windsport. 3) The Greyhawk could hardly get out of its own way. The Windsport is hardly a rocket but it has much better get up and go than the Greyhawk did. In short, the Class A is a little longer and a little taller but has much better drivability than a Class C!

Thanx,

Dan

Yup, I second that the class A is easier to drive and handles better. Can be a bit slower if you upgraded to a heavier vehicle but the F53 is strong no matter what it’s burdened with.

jpmihalk · 10-10-2017, 02:49 AM

I agree that a driver has better visibility in a Class A than a Class C. I have driven both and definitely prefer the Class A, despite its extra length and weight.

JamJanTan · 10-10-2017, 04:37 PM

Perhaps to look out a window and see but my mirrors are spot on and I don,t have a blind spot at all with my C. Just kept hearing safe-t-plus, suspension upgrades etc and thought I really don't feel like I need any.

steve76 · 10-10-2017, 05:09 PM

I don't see any blind spots on my Class C. Need to get front end alignment though. 2k miles, drivers front tire shows tow out wear, passenger side, tow in wear. Wanders a bit, hope alignment will make it more comfortable to drive. When I drive, I spend about 8-9 hours behind the wheel. Wife relieves me for about and hour at times but hates it.

Chance · 10-10-2017, 06:21 PM

I've never had problems with Cs either. Visibility is very similar to any Ford E-Series van except Cs usually have much larger mirrors. These larger mirrors improve view to rear, but do create a larger blind spot -- particularly to driver's side.

In general the Ford E-Series van chassis with independent front suspension and coil springs should be more sophisticated than the truck-like F-53 chassis. Obviously the GVWR is lower on E-Series, so comparing motorhomes of equal size doesn't make much sense to me. However, as long as vehicle weight is in proportion to chassis rating, I expect Cs to do OK.

Whirnot · 10-10-2017, 06:56 PM

I had a 25 foot class C and now have a 26 foot Class A (Vegas).
There is definitely more body roll with the Vegas, hence I just installed front Sumos. But the Vegas is definitely nicer to drive other than that. Kind of like driving your living rom.

Chance · 10-10-2017, 07:15 PM

The Axis and Vegas are presently the only Class A motorhomes being built on the traditionally Class C Ford E-Series chassis. Since they have identical specifications for the most part, there should be minimal difference between a Ford Class C and an Axis/Vegas as long as size, weight, Cg, weight distribution, etc. are similar.

I think added body roll is probably due to higher center of gravity since newer motorhomes keep getting taller and taller.

JamJanTan · 10-10-2017, 11:52 PM

Those who like Class A drivability that's what I want to discuss. Are you driving stock off the lot? I looked at a used Class A when I bought and the guy selling it talked about how many suspension mods he had to do to be able to handle it. Was really worried but have not had a white knuckle day. Not a suspension upgrade one. Does it take a while for these things to show up?

Joe-FL · 10-11-2017, 12:35 AM

When I test drove my Challenger 37GT only about 8 miles of it was on interstate with zero winds and hardly any traffic. Of course the coach was empty but it handled pretty good. We made the deal, loaded her down and soon began the first 1,400 miles trip south. In the last 50 years I have driven everything from truck-tractor-trailers to motorcycles and the stock Challenger 37GT on an unmodified F53 chassis is so bad in windy conditions it is almost dangerous IMHO. Over $2,000 in suspensions upgrades and it now handles pretty good.

My buddy has a 2016 Challenger. It is a different model that is 35 feet long instead of 38 feet like mine. His handles good without modifications, same exact chassis and wheelbase.

IMHO these different handling characteristics have to do with total box length to wheelbase ratio.

jpmihalk · 10-11-2017, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamJanTan

Those who like Class A drivability that's what I want to discuss. Are you driving stock off the lot? I looked at a used Class A when I bought and the guy selling it talked about how many suspension mods he had to do to be able to handle it. Was really worried but have not had a white knuckle day. Not a suspension upgrade one. Does it take a while for these things to show up?

The only upgrade we have had done is the CHF - the Cheap Handling Fix. This is simply a change to the anti-sway bar links to make the body roll less but stiffer. It only applies to the F53 chassis. This helps to prevent sway with crosswinds and when being passed by semis and other high profile vehicles. My previous motorhome (1998 Itasca Sunflyer) had no modifications and handled just fine.

Really, the only difference is the wheelbase - making sure you clear the rear axle(s) as you corner. Most class A's have a longer wheelbase than Class C's (not ALL but MOST.) Everything else is pretty equal - tire inflation, alignment, shocks, etc.

gmc · 10-11-2017, 12:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamJanTan

Those who like Class A drivability that's what I want to discuss. Are you driving stock off the lot? I looked at a used Class A when I bought and the guy selling it talked about how many suspension mods he had to do to be able to handle it. Was really worried but have not had a white knuckle day. Not a suspension upgrade one. Does it take a while for these things to show up?

No upgrades here... and no white knuckles while driving...
Recommend an alignment first if you have any issues - then go from there to suit your needs.

Things that show up over time would be a sign of something needing maintenance - not necessarily an upgrade.. (alignment, linkages, etc..)

(I probably would avoid driving with 35+ mph cross winds if I had a choice - and usually do - but typically hasn't been an issue... had my prev RV in some windy cross winds - and certainly slowed down... not worth spending lots of money in my mind when slowing down a little occasionally works...)

JamJanTan · 10-11-2017, 01:18 AM

I was wondering if all this white knuckle event are from drivers how enjoy 70+. I always maintain about 65 and slower in rain or wind. Just trying to understand what I read about all these expensive suspension upgrades.

jpmihalk · 10-11-2017, 01:21 AM

Good point, I try to maintain 62-64 on the highways tops, maybe allow for some downhill momentum to help carry up the next hill.

Wonderdog · 10-11-2017, 01:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamJanTan

I was wondering if all this white knuckle event are from drivers how enjoy 70+. I always maintain about 65 and slower in rain or wind. Just trying to understand what I read about all these expensive suspension upgrades.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpmihalk

Good point, I try to maintain 62-64 on the highways tops, maybe allow for some downhill momentum to help carry up the next hill.

Speeeed Racers! Yes you are.

I usually set my cruise at 60 and hang on for dear life! Sometimes in cities with heavier traffic I turn off the cruise. After a while the lovely wife, mother of my children, keeper of the peace and counter of the coin will look over and in that beautiful voice that still melts my heart says, 'HEY OLD MAN! DO YOU PLAN TO GET TO THE CAMPGROUND BEFORE MIDNIGHT!!!"

Then I look down at the speedometer and see that I'm doing about 50 with some old song going on in my head. So, I speed up a bit. But, like you guys, have no handling problems. I really like this retirement thing.

Tupelo Kid · 10-11-2017, 02:08 AM

While reading through the post on this subject, I would like to add that I am on my first RV of any kind.
Decided to purchase a new 2018 Thor ACE 29.3 and I have decided without prior driving experience of any ride this size that many of the issues listed in this post are the same that I am feeling. Crosswinds, buffeting, passing large trucks buses and other motorhomes cause a strong cross wind pressure that causes a little issue of holding the coach in lane.
Swaying does not seem to be much issue but I would think it could be improved a little. Driving in general is a 2 handed job. I do understand as I gain further experience driving this coach some of this will become better, I will become more at ease with most of it but IF there are things I can do to improve the items listed what would they be?
Guess I never thought driving a motorhome would not be just like driving the Lincoln. Was I ever surprised. Hey, guess what? This is a BIG TRUCK and I'm learning to deal with it.

Is it asking to much for someone to actually list the items needed and prioritize issues in order of correction from first to last and what that correction should be? Also what I should expect from each upgrade?

Yes, I am not a do it yourself person for work such as this so I would need to have a shop do the work but I need to know what work and items are needed before I start asking questions at the shops.

Any suggestions is appreciated.
Thanks.
PS: Noise in the cockpit I'm working on. I've already added sound damp foam inside the doghouse to suppress engine noise. Sounds better sitting still. Drive test will come soon. I also plan to add further sound damp material under the floor and wheel well. Maybe even add some undercoating to the area to help with noise a little.

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