Fridge issue

[Bob Denman]

latest report: the gas stove lights and functions normally. I let it run for about five minutes, before attempting to switch over...
When I hit the button: I'm not even getting that "Tick... tick... tick...." sound that the igniter normally makes. I get about a two or three second delay, and it goes straight to a red light.

Is there a way to "jump-start" or reset these Norcold Fridges?

[The Gritz Carlton]

Bob, can you open the panel and try to ignite it manually with a grill type stick lighter? Have the wife turn it over to gas while at the same time try to light it, while holding the flame on the pilot area for a few seconds. I think you have a burp of air in the line or possibly the igniter has taken a dirt road. The manual lighting test should qualify both issues. Igniter is easy to replace. Once the lighter warms up the thermocouple it should allow the gas to flow.

[Bob Denman]

...I tried that too: no luck!

And now: the beer is getting warm!

[pstandiford]

I believe the lighter and thermocouple are the same lead (maybe not on Norcold) so the thermocouple May prevent gas valve from opening. I had that problem on an old Atwood. I removed the thermocouple and cleaned it with an emery board DW had and that resolved issue until I could find a replacement. It had soot on the thermocouple. Also adjusted flame so it was not yellow.

[Bob Denman]

I just trued powering the Fridge down, and re-starting it. When I tried to switch from electric to gas this time: I did get the igniter to click about 25 times; but it still didn't light up.
(This reset instruction came out of the Owner's Manual...)

[The Gritz Carlton]

Bad thermocouple (sounds like) is not opening the gas valve for ignition. These things are pretty standard...is there an LP bulk facility near you that may have one? They deal with mobile home parks a lot and probably service tons of propane fired portable heaters and other appliances.

[The Gritz Carlton]

From Another Forum:



Pull out your refrigerator owners manual and to the burner area tuneup. It is recommended preventive maintenance once a year.
No special tools and no parts are needed.
Issues that could cause this that are addressed in the tuneup are:
Debris or rust in the burner tube.
Improper igniter gap.
Debris or rust between igniter and ground.
Dirty propane jet causing too small a flame to trigger the thermocouple.
Only after doing each step in your book should you consider "throwing parts at it".

[Bob Denman]

I was just digging around in the manual n preparation for a deeper dive this afternoon.
(The Missus has to get back to the Office, before I can sneak out...)

Thanks!

[Peterrrr]

Originally Posted by SuperD

Cycle back and forth between the AC and propane several times. Even after lighting the stove burners I sometimes have to cycle 4-5 times before the fridge lights.

Mines the same, but normally after about 3 attempts. Only after it has been off though. When I start for the winter it is fine all winter long. Pity such a pain for another thing to remember.

[Bob Denman]

A workable short-term solution...
Since it's raining here now: I can't be outside, and taking things apart...
So we'll wait until the last minute before unplugging from shore power, and just run the generator while we're on the road (about four hours)
I'll deal with this next week...

[Bob Denman]

UPDATE: On the seventh attempt: it lit up!
SuperD: you were 100% correct. All that it took, was a bit more patience on my part.
I let it run for about five minutes, and then switched back to AC power. I just came back out, and it fired up on the first "click" this time!
I'll switch it back to AC when I head back over to the house, and make the switch back to propane in the morning.
Thanks for all of the encouragement and advice!

[Mikeroe66]

Since I put the new circuit board in, in Maine, we’ve traveled from there to DC, and now in South Caroline, the fridge has been staying on in the LP mode just fine. I still ordered the inverter and am going to install it when we get home to Phoenix. Will see how it does from SC to Phx. I still don’t like the “open flame” idea while driving. I not to worried about fire as there is nothing in the area to burn, more worried about it failing. I realize in electric mode I could loose another circuit board or even a heating element, I just have read a lot about the unreliability of them working in the LP mode.

[Bob Denman]

At least we both now have cold "Barley-Pops", in our 'Fridges...

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Mikeroe66

I just have read a lot about the unreliability of them working in the LP mode.

Yep, when you're researching a problem then that's what you are going to read. In reality, they are as reliable in LP mode as electric mode and most times cool better in LP mode.

[Bob Denman]

...As long as they fired up, when you want them to...
I can see that they do require a bit more upkeep for this mode to be reliable.

[Mikeroe66]

Home now. It actually did fail once, between a last gas stop and home. I installed the new smart auto transferring inverter, and it seems to work great. When I plug power in, it clicks over to bypass and shuts down, fridge just keeps on working on electric. No more LP. Thanks to everyone who gave suggestions.

[Bob Denman]

Glad to hear that you'll always have your supply of ice cream safe!

[pavemike]

Originally Posted by Mikeroe66

Home now. It actually did fail once, between a last gas stop and home. I installed the new smart auto transferring inverter, and it seems to work great. When I plug power in, it clicks over to bypass and shuts down, fridge just keeps on working on electric. No more LP. Thanks to everyone who gave suggestions.

Excellent, Mikeroe66. Which inverter did you end up going with? This could be a fix for other folks with the similar issues. Glad you are able to keep the ice cream and "beverages" safe.