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Old 09-04-2018, 01:33 PM   #21
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AMPS X VOLTS = WATTS. Look at your manual or the specifications sticker on the fridge. Find nominal amperage rating. Multiply by 120. Add 20% and that is the wattage inverter you need. The 20% will accommodate the surge of the compressor. Go bigger if you think you will need other small 120V things running while underway, such as computers, air filtration systems, oxygen machines, etc. Everything "120V plug in" has a rated and posted amperage on a plate somewhere or you can Google it to find out.

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Old 09-04-2018, 01:34 PM   #22
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Forgot...no compressor on a gas fridge..
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Old 09-04-2018, 03:34 PM   #23
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Correct on the compressor issue, it’s a heating element.
Since we are leaving on a cross country trip Friday, and can’t get into the dealer for a week to have them look at it, we’re going to just put things in the fridge that won’t spoil for the trip. If the dealer can’t solve the running on LP issue, I’ll look into the inverter option. It does sound like a good idea
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Old 09-04-2018, 03:48 PM   #24
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Blue Ice...it's a great option too...freeze when on power...put it fridge when traveling. Keep it closed much as possible. Don't let the beer get warm.
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Old 09-08-2018, 10:13 PM   #25
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Bought two coolers one for dairy and some drinks, and one for meat and cheeses. Have the fridge for water and stuff we’re not worried about if fridge fails. Started our big trip across the US from Phoenix, and am in Flagstaff, fridge went to LP mode ok when I unplugged at the house, but was in check again when we got here. Read somewhere that a big change in altitude affects them. Will have to see how it does enroute to Colorado. Glad we got the coolers. But shouldn’t have too, these fridges should work!!!
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Old 09-10-2018, 12:18 AM   #26
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Yup gonna take it to dealer when I get back, pretty much every time I stop driving in look it’s our again. Hope they can fix it and not give me a run a round. Thank god we are relying on coolers this trip
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Old 09-10-2018, 03:10 PM   #27
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In camp, woke up this morning to fridge in check AGAIN!!!! This time it was on electric, so it must be a circuit board issue, at least that’s what I guessing it is......
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Old 09-11-2018, 12:23 PM   #28
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This should be the trouble shooting manual for your Norcold. You need to count and time the flashes. Hope it gives you some insight to your problem.

http://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/wp-c...vice-N61x-N81x
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Old 09-13-2018, 09:04 PM   #29
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Just got a report on our fridge issue. It appears at first glance the eyebrow control board is loosing 12 volt and killing the fridge. The problem is it it is so random. May take an hour, may be all night before it goes. My service guy is being told by Dometic that he needs to isolate the coach both AC and DC to see if it is a control board or the coach causing the issue. Had it running for 7 hours today and no code... ugh! What a PIA!
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Old 09-20-2018, 10:44 AM   #30
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It seems to work now when on 120 power, but not on LP. Finally had some time to take a good look at the flame and it looks fine. So o took the cover off the circuit board and looked at the connections. Found one push on a little loose. Heading on the road this morning so we’ll see how it does. Talked to a lot of other campers and no one likes this RV type fridges, yet there are some that run flawlessly
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Old 09-20-2018, 12:47 PM   #31
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Just got back from the dealer with no luck from a Dometic service center. The dealer replaced the main control board and it has been running 2 days switching from AC to LP several times with no check lights. Keeping my fingers crossed for some dry camping this weekend!!
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Old 09-21-2018, 12:01 PM   #32
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On our long trip, fridge is on and off all the time, has to be circuit board. Tried getting into a repair place, all are booked up, so I ordered a new board and having it shipped to our next stop. Hopefully it will fix it
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Old 09-23-2018, 12:21 PM   #33
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Putting the board in tonight, but after 4 resets yesterday, it has stayed on all day yesterday and all of last night. Hmmm sounding more like a lose connection. But will see after board change and hitting the road again on Sunday for our next stop
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Old 09-23-2018, 10:45 PM   #34
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Got the new board put in, seemed to work ok on electric and gas, will know more overnight and on road test on Tuesday
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Old 09-23-2018, 10:47 PM   #35
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Congratulations!
The best of luck with your ongoing tests...
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Old 09-24-2018, 02:58 AM   #36
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Mikerow66....sounds like your board. I have diagnosed several with the same issue. Board was the culprit. If you take it in..ask for a gas pressure reading before and after the valveon the refer itself...that will eliminate a sticky LP valve. I am very confident you will be batting a new board.
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Old 09-24-2018, 02:21 PM   #37
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Put the new board in and left power unplugged, and hit the switch, it started ok on LP. Then plugged back in a and it ran all night on electric with out going into check. Heading on the road Tuesday, will see how it really does then. Sure hope that fixes it as we still have a few weeks to go before we’re home
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Old 09-25-2018, 08:44 PM   #38
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Drove on suburban roads through 4-5 towns and stopped at a Walmart, and the fridge seemed to work fine with the new board on LP. Then got on the highway and got to our campground and found it in check again, not sure if it blew out and could not reset, but I restarted it and it’s working ok on LP in the campground. I just don’t get what else it could be??????
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:05 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeroe66 View Post
Drove on suburban roads through 4-5 towns and stopped at a Walmart, and the fridge seemed to work fine with the new board on LP. Then got on the highway and got to our campground and found it in check again, not sure if it blew out and could not reset, but I restarted it and it’s working ok on LP in the campground. I just don’t get what else it could be??????
When you take the outside cover off look at the flue, some fridges have a small inspection port to check the flame and this has a small swivel cover. Sometimes if the cover isn’t closed when traveling wind will blow the flame out. Just a thought about something else to look at.
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:20 PM   #40
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The flame does look “normal” but it may be a blow out issue
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