Which Leveling Blocks would you use?

[dkoldman]

My question is reference to Class A with a power leveling system. I have F53 Chassis with dual wheels on the back.

There have been times where I have noticed the leveling jacks picks up a wheel or two off the ground I have also heard (but never done) that some people put these leveling blocks underneath their 4 leveling jacks before leveling.

With that background, I have some Camping World coupon money laying around. I must use it before 1/13/20. I am considering one of the two sets of blocks. Which would you recommend and why? If you wish to point to something entirely different that is fine. Push come to shove (no pun intended) I can actually buy $50 worth of RV toilet paper. At current I use regular toilet paper as I refused to believe that regular toilet paper can be issue; but I digress.


1. FasTen Heavy-Duty Leveling Blocks for Dual Wheels, Set of 10
https://www.campingworld.com/fasten-...-10-85155.html
2. FasTen XL Leveling Blocks, Set of 10
https://www.campingworld.com/fasten-...10-107115.html
3. Recommend some other leveling system
4. Don't buy levelers, find another item to purchase

[gmc]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

My question is reference to Class A with a power leveling system. I have F53 Chassis with dual wheels on the back.

There have been times where I have noticed the leveling jacks picks up a wheel or two off the ground I have also heard but never done that some people put these leveling blocks underneath their 4 leveling jacks before leveling.

With that background, I have some Camping World money laying around. I must use before 1/13/20. I am considering one of the two sets of blocks. Which would you recommend and why?
....
4. Don't buy levelers, find another item to purchase

Option 4 would be my choice... I try to park as level as possible, then let the jacks I paid for do their thing... If that means a wheel is off the ground, so be it (and yes that is a ‘religious’ argument).

I carry a cut up 2x10 if needed under jacks for either soft ground/asphalt or if more height is needed.

Spend the $50 on something fun.

[Lt Keefer]

I never let my wheels get off the ground when using the leveling jacks and I sure wouldn't put these plastic things under my jacks. That being said, they are supposed to support the weight of a class A or 5th wheel when used under the tires. If I was buying, I would get the yellow ones as they are wide enough for the rear duallies.

[powerboatr]

i have several items we use under the jack pads if conditions warrant
and i also have two 2" tall x 18" wide pads that will fit under the rear duals




I made up different sized pads by using 1" x6" hard wood waste wood from lumber shipping
its real 1" thick.


i glued them up to make a pad 2" thick and 12" x 12" for rear jack pads to prevent sinking in asphalt or crushed stone or grass.
i have four of these as i have four jacks


I also have made up a pair of 8" x8" pads made up of 2"x4" s i had left over
so its 3" thick to give me some more if we get to a weird place, which does happen every now and then. but i don't ever have more than one rear wheel off the ground, and i try every option before i let that stand.



if we are in a place where it looks like the rear wheels may be coming off the ground, i will roll up on the 2" long pads and get that side level in the rear so the rear jack is only stabilizing and not lifting the rear off the ground.


i have a few times been in odd places where the front is high in the air. makes for entry to bus a bit hard


i also made up several big chocks to stuff at a wheel to help stop any roll back or wiggling

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by powerboatr

i have several items we use under the jack pads if conditions warrant
and i also have two 2" tall x 18" wide pads that will fit under the rear duals




I made up different sized pads by using 1" x6" hard wood waste wood from lumber shipping
its real 1" thick.


i glued them up to make a pad 2" thick and 12" x 12" for rear jack pads to prevent sinking in asphalt or crushed stone or grass.
i have four of these as i have four jacks


I also have made up a pair of 8" x8" pads made up of 2"x4" s i had left over
so its 3" thick to give me some more if we get to a weird place, which does happen every now and then. but i don't ever have more than one rear wheel off the ground, and i try every option before i let that stand.



if we are in a place where it looks like the rear wheels may be coming off the ground, i will roll up on the 2" long pads and get that side level in the rear so the rear jack is only stabilizing and not lifting the rear off the ground.


i have a few times been in odd places where the front is high in the air. makes for entry to bus a bit hard


i also made up several big chocks to stuff at a wheel to help stop any roll back or wiggling

Let me see if I follow.

1. You are basically saying I should use wood and make myself versus the plastic stuff

2. You have 3 sets you have made
a) 2"x18"x18" These are for rear Duals so you only have 2
b) 2"x12"x12" You have 4 of these and they are 4 pads for leveling jacks only
c) 2"x8"x8" you have 2 of these for just in case?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by gmc

Option 4 would be my choice... I try to park as level as possible, then let the jacks I paid for do their thing... If that means a wheel is off the ground, so be it (and yes that is a ‘religious’ argument).

I carry a cut up 2x10 if needed under jacks for either soft ground/asphalt or if more height is needed.

Spend the $50 on something fun.

I have kind of being doing this using some boards from my boat. I had a 2" x 12" about 17" long to serve as a guide to when to stop backing my RV in driveway. I have Harbor Freight Chocks, but I have been using 2 x4s on front tires as precaution on RV rolling forward. My driveway is flat; so it is just precaution.

I think I will go to Lowes to get cost to buy 8' 2x10 or 8' 2X12.

I will have 96''; so I will plan to make 8 pieces.

4 Pads 10x10 or 10x12
2 Front tires 10x10 or 10x12
2 Rear Duals 18x10 or 18x12

Hard to find something for under $50 at CW that is fun, but I got a few days left to find something. I hate to lose coupon and I hate to buy something I don't need.

[halfprice]

I say buy the yellow ones. For me they would be much easier to haul around than 2x10s. Wood is heavy and imo harder to store.

With that being said I would reposition the rig so its level enough to use the jacks and not lift any tire off the ground.

I have the standard size yellow pads that I originally bought for my 5th wheel. THey are in one of the mh compartments and Ive never used them

Jerry

[abjbrtd]

This will help keep the wheels on the ground.
Check this thread.
http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8/...tion-6400.html
When you do the manual level only lower the rear jacks till the rear just barely moves, then start the zero point calibration.

On our F53 and now the E450 I always build a ramp by putting 1 block in front of each front tire then stack 2 more in front of those. Drive on them then auto level.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by abjbrtd

This will help keep the wheels on the ground.
Check this thread.
http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8/...tion-6400.html
When you do the manual level only lower the rear jacks till the rear just barely moves, then start the zero point calibration.

On our F53 and now the E450 I always build a ramp by putting 1 block in front of each front tire then stack 2 more in front of those. Drive on them then auto level.

I have a 2019 Sunstar and I am not sure if Levelers are the same? Both are made by Lippert; so I assume functions would be the same if not the exact same? I have Power Gear® Electric Leveling System by Lippert?

The only issue I have seen with Auto Level is extreme case on one incline where the left rear was about 3 inches lower than the rest of the coach. The system as if it knew it would only extend the right rear jack and stop. You would have thought it would have did the left rear jack and stopped? I did it manually no problem.

Similar at my brothers house his driveway has a upward incline. I was backed in. When I tried to Auto Level it apparently was too steep that the Power Gear® Electric Leveling System didn't even attempt to level. I did it manually and the the two from were as for as they would go. I chocked the rear wheels but concluded I would never try that again without levelers under the front wheels.

All the other times the Auto Leveling works really well.

From what I have read, I may buy Dual yellow set and make my own set out of 2 x 10.

[Beau388]

First, Thor and Lippert state it is unsafe to lift either of the rear wheel pairs off the ground when leveling. Remember, the parking brake and park position on the transmission work only on the drive shaft or differential pinion. This means if either rear wheel pair is off the ground, you have no parking brakes and the coach is free to move and possibly bend the jacks. The easiest solution is turn the coach around and lift a front wheel off the ground.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Beau388

First, Thor and Lippert state it is unsafe to lift either of the rear wheel pairs off the ground when leveling. Remember, the parking brake and park position on the transmission work only on the drive shaft or differential pinion. This means if either rear wheel pair is off the ground, you have no parking brakes and the coach is free to move and possibly bend the jacks. The easiest solution is turn the coach around and lift a front wheel off the ground.

Not sure how this was directed but wanted to clarify in both of my scenarios no rear wheel (dual) was ever off the ground.

My second scenario where I was backed in on a driveway incline had the two front wheels abut an inch off the ground. I put chocks on the rear wheels, but said I would never do that again without the leveling blocks that I would make or buy.

I do have question. Are you saying Thor & Lippert are saying you should NEVER use leveling blocks under rear wheels if you intend on auto or manually leveling?

[Beau388]

From the operating instruction manual ----
Rev: 10.09.18Page 3CCD-0002307.Park coach on a reasonably solid surface or jacks may sink into ground. On extremely soft surfaces, use load distribution pads under each jack.
Never lift wheels off the ground when leveling the coach. Lifting the wheels off the ground during leveling may result in death or serious personal injury, severe product and/or property damage.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Beau388

From the operating instruction manual ----
Rev: 10.09.18Page 3CCD-0002307.Park coach on a reasonably solid surface or jacks may sink into ground. On extremely soft surfaces, use load distribution pads under each jack.
Never lift wheels off the ground when leveling the coach. Lifting the wheels off the ground during leveling may result in death or serious personal injury, severe product and/or property damage.

Maybe someone can us interpret what this mean?

Park coach on a reasonably solid surface or jacks may sink into ground. On extremely soft surfaces, use load distribution pads under each jack.

[My View] It is okay to use level blocks / pads underneath the jacks. I think this is understood and the generally viewed as safe regardless if surface is hard or soft.

Never lift wheels off the ground when leveling the coach. Lifting the wheels off the ground during leveling may result in death or serious personal injury...

[My View] I would NEVER intentionally wish to level with any wheels off the ground. Especially the rear. However, my proposal or thought was by putting wheels known to be substantially lower than the otherwise level coach, I would put the leveling blocks under the appropriate wheels (rear or front) and then level using auto level or manual. My end result would always end with all wheels on the ground or leveling blocks.

Curious to get corrections or confirmations of my thinking?

Thanks

[ducksface]

A different take (which seems to be my lot in life on this forum)

Our rv came with, no exaggeration, fifty of the yellow Legos.

We can level our 24.1 within a couple ofdegrees without any of them 8 of 10 stays and we have NEVER used leveling blocks.

I think leveling has become an obsession/cultural ceremony.

We easily learned to not complain about a degree or so.
Everything in the coach works just fine.

We will however install an automatic leveling system.
It will lift a tire when a flat or maintenence is needed and it will be nice to be level. It just won't be a ceremony to be level.

Maybe we adapted this attitude due to our boondocking.
We don't feel we HAVE TO hook up to sewer and water and even electric just because it's there. We do it when needed and usually just long enough to fill/charge/dump, reel it up and be ready to run at a moments notice. We feel the same about leveling.
I'd rather be ready to go than spend time leveling and in turn unlevelling.

A towed, certainly a sillily long rv, a frivolous and loud spouse, ocd or a more permanent spot of a week or so would certainly change my mind about how we set up and break down.

Just an idea about how easy we try to make life.


Look up line-lock.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...hoC308QAvD_BwE
It's a mechanical or electrical parking brake for front wheels. Cheap and easy. That set of butt and rebutt can be put to bed for under $100.(it's also a great a anti-theft device if you have the need for such comfort)

[99dart]

Well, here's my take on the subject. Re-zero yours hydraulic levelers, park as level as possible in the site assigned. Then, if a tire comes off the ground place a set of these under the tire to make you feel better about it. https://www.etrailer.com/Wheel-Chock...en/AM3604.html

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by 99dart

Well, here's my take on the subject. Re-zero yours hydraulic levelers, park as level as possible in the site assigned. Then, if a tire comes off the ground place a set of these under the tire to make you feel better about it. https://www.etrailer.com/Wheel-Chock...en/AM3604.html

As OP, I feel compelled to clarify that my auto leveling works perfectly to my knowledge.

I only brought up 2 scenarios where I was in a obvious none situation. Neither was at a camp site or where one would expect to park an RV.

However, it seemed to me had I had leveling blocks (and I don't) I could have put three under the left dual wheel (3 inches) and the leveled with no issues. At my brother house I could have put 2 under both front wheels (2 inches) and leveled with no issues. All tires would be on the ground / or leveler block.

Unless someone says you should never use a leveling block under any tire when you plan to auto level or manual level with hydraulics I am not sure I see an issue?

Assuming no issue, was why I created the thread of trying to find out which of the leveling blocks would be best to get if I could get for close to free fro Camping World?

I believe the consensus is the Yellow Dual blocks? However, making a set out of 2x10 wood is simple enough to have both. If for no other reason, I would certainly want 4 blocks to put under the hydraulic Jacks on occasion.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by ducksface

A different take (which seems to be my lot in life on this forum)

Our rv came with, no exaggeration, fifty of the yellow Legos.

We can level our 24.1 within a couple ofdegrees without any of them 8 of 10 stays and we have NEVER used leveling blocks.

I think leveling has become an obsession/cultural ceremony.

We easily learned to not complain about a degree or so.
Everything in the coach works just fine.

We will however install an automatic leveling system.
It will lift a tire when a flat or maintenence is needed and it will be nice to be level. It just won't be a ceremony to be level.

Maybe we adapted this attitude due to our boondocking.
We don't feel we HAVE TO hook up to sewer and water and even electric just because it's there. We do it when needed and usually just long enough to fill/charge/dump, reel it up and be ready to run at a moments notice. We feel the same about leveling.
I'd rather be ready to go than spend time leveling and in turn unlevelling.

A towed, certainly a sillily long rv, a frivolous and loud spouse, ocd or a more permanent spot of a week or so would certainly change my mind about how we set up and break down.

Just an idea about how easy we try to make life.


Look up line-lock.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...hoC308QAvD_BwE
It's a mechanical or electrical parking brake for front wheels. Cheap and easy. That set of butt and rebutt can be put to bed for under $100.(it's also a great a anti-theft device if you have the need for such comfort)

I have only leveled thus far when I wanted to extend my full wall slide. The auto level works great and is 98% all I need. Just know of two locations that a block would be needed. One I can avoid and the other, If I can't put blocks under the tires before leveling I will simply not try to level in that spot any more.

As long as my coach is level when I wish to use San T flush I am good anyway Your Racing technology on a Class A RV is very intriguing. Man you do think out of the box. Good Stuff.

[ducksface]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I have only leveled thus far when I wanted to extend my full wall slide. The auto level works great and is 98% all I need. Just know of two locations that a block would be needed. One I can avoid and the other, If I can't put blocks under the tires before leveling I will simply not try to level in that spot any more.

As long as my coach is level when I wish to use San T flush I am good anyway Your Racing technology on a Class A RV is very intriguing. Man you do think out of the box. Good Stuff.

You use the levelers exactly as I will.
They'll be a fine tool. They won't dictate diddly to me and they sure won't become a hobby/obsession/affliction/infatuation.
They'll be just a button to hit.

[Pete'sMH]

Seems like there are as many opinions here as users. FWIW I use red LEGO blocks under tires and jacks when needed and they work fine. I carry 20 of them but rarely use them. I used wood with my first RV but it’s heavy, often waterlogged and muddy. Blocks rinse right off and seem to hold up well.

At risk of hijacking the thread...my owners manual (SOB) very clearly says to extend the slides before leveling. My dealer couldn’t explain why (then again, he said the water filter was the pump so there’s that). This seems utterly counter intuitive and is opposite to what I’ve always done. How do you all sequence the leveling process?

[Beau388]

Thor's and LCI's instructions for LCI in-wall slides state: set the emergency brake, level the coach, turn the engine off (slide interlock prevents slide movement with ignition on), extend the slides (recommended with generator running or on shore power). In-floor slides by different manufactures probably require different procedures. I know Entegra's in-floor slides should be deployed while the air bags are inflated.