Batteries in the Cabin

LAdriver · 02-06-2018, 04:27 AM

Hey all... My new Gemini Cabin Batteries seems to drain and shut down after a little more then 24 hrs inactivity... any knowledge or suggestions on rectifying this situation? It shuts off my fridge as well, until I come out and start the engine... in minutes everything back on and power supply is back up.

axis earl · 02-06-2018, 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LAdriver

Hey all... My new Gemini Cabin Batteries seems to drain and shut down after a little more then 24 hrs inactivity... any knowledge or suggestions on rectifying this situation? It shuts off my fridge as well, until I come out and start the engine... in minutes everything back on and power supply is back up.

So the only thing you have drawing power that you know is your refrigerator and the batts go dead in 24 hours? Sounds right off that your house batteries are bad and will not hold a charge. I would have them checked first.

LAdriver · 02-06-2018, 08:17 AM

Thank you... I will... however they are relatively new. They seem to hold a charge after starting... all thru the night. But if left alone it goes down to shut off level

petefoss · 02-06-2018, 11:29 AM

What is powering your fridge? On my 31W it's the 12v batteries via an inverter. Which most people get less than 8 hours. Are you on 12v, propane, ?

LAdriver · 02-06-2018, 11:38 AM

Use... 12V and propane! I will check Batteries today... perhaps I can get better Batteries

Tom Bowe · 02-06-2018, 01:34 PM

May not apply to your coach, but our Hurricane has the fridge wired to the inverter so that it can run on 120 volts while traveling. But if I don’t switch it from “Auto” to “Gas” or turn off the inverter, it’ll run the batteries down pretty quickly when the engine is stopped and not plugged into AC.

Miramar Owner · 02-06-2018, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LAdriver

Hey all... My new Gemini Cabin Batteries seems to drain and shut down after a little more then 24 hrs inactivity... any knowledge or suggestions on rectifying this situation? It shuts off my fridge as well, until I come out and start the engine... in minutes everything back on and power supply is back up.

When you say "drain and shut down" are you meaning you don't even have enough for interior lights or are you determining that by the fridge shutting off? If you have an inverter for the fridge it is designed to shut off before draining your batteries, at least that's the way mine works.

I have a residential fridge and it would shut off after about 10 hours. I replaced the poor quality batteries that came with the coach with 4-6 volt batteries. I now get over 24 hours with no concern.

I used to have an older coach that did not have the residential fridge. I either ran it on LP or electric. I always ran on LP until I reached the campground. Then I would switch it to electric.

**16ACE27** · 02-06-2018, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LAdriver

Hey all... My new Gemini Cabin Batteries seems to drain and shut down after a little more then 24 hrs inactivity... any knowledge or suggestions on rectifying this situation? It shuts off my fridge as well, until I come out and start the engine... in minutes everything back on and power supply is back up.

You have a 3-way fridge: LP/120 VAC/12 VDC. I see no mention of an inverter in your Gemini.

Are you leaving your fridge on 12 VDC? If so, depending on outside temps and battery capacity, it will only run for a few hours before draining your batteries.

As I recall when I had a 3-way fridge you can set the "Auto" feature to shift to either LP or 12 VDC when 120 VAC is not available.

When running the engine, 12 VDC is fine but otherwise if no 120 VAC is available it needs to be on LP.

Oneilkeys · 02-06-2018, 03:56 PM

I agree. I had the 3 Way system on my first Class B and I could never figure out what the 12v setting was for. My first Class C And Axis only have a 2 way (propane and 120v). Running even a small refrigerator on 12v will run down your batteries in a very short time and the fridge does not cool very well either. The only time the 12v was useful to me was on a ferry where I had to shut off my propane.

Bob Denman · 02-06-2018, 04:36 PM

It would seem that the 12 volt setting; best serves the purpose of selling new (or additional) batteries.

LAdriver · 02-06-2018, 04:40 PM

Nice info... very helpful... thank you so much... super cool forum!

Laco · 02-06-2018, 05:28 PM

If your refrigerator is like ours, its a three way, will run on 120 Volts, 12 volts or LP. When you are parked run your refrigerator on LP, if you are not on shore power. I run mine off the inverter on 120 volts, while I'm underway, but if I am going to be parked for any period of time, I switch it to LP.

petefoss · 02-06-2018, 07:35 PM

To me the 12V setting (which I have never had FYI) is for when you are travelling and don't want the propane on for safety. Be interesting to know if 12V via a gasoline engine or direct propane is cheaper. Obviously depends on gas and propane costs. Irrelevant for me since mine only runs on 120 via the inverter.

Laco · 02-06-2018, 08:03 PM

My guess is running the refrigerator on 120 volts is a bit more efficient than running on 12 volts. If I'm running mine off batteries, I always run it on 120 volts off the inverter. While underway, IMO that's the way to run it, as the engine alternator recharges the batteries as anything IE: the refrigerator, draws power from them.

petefoss · 02-06-2018, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laco

as the engine alternator recharges the batteries as anything IE: the refrigerator, draws power from them.

And since the engine is running anyway that power is free! NOT!

I had a long discussion with a Volt owner about using regenerative braking to charge his battery while flat towing a Volt (Which you cannot do FYI). He couldn't get it that the RV would burn more fuel because of the drag of the regenerative braking.

they breed too!

Laco · 02-06-2018, 10:43 PM

No such thing as free power, but replacing what little the refrigerator uses is pretty trivial.

petefoss · 02-06-2018, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laco

No such thing as free power, but replacing what little the refrigerator uses is pretty trivial.

True I'm talking kilowatts to charge an EV battery. Although my residential fridge draws about 700 watts when it's running. That's an extra hp on the engine.

JamieGeek · 02-06-2018, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by petefoss

And since the engine is running anyway that power is free! NOT!

I had a long discussion with a Volt owner about using regenerative braking to charge his battery while flat towing a Volt (Which you cannot do FYI). He couldn't get it that the RV would burn more fuel because of the drag of the regenerative braking.

they breed too!

LOL What does he think it means by "braking"??

petefoss · 02-06-2018, 11:48 PM

We also discussed windmills mounted to the car roof to generate power while the vehicle was moving.

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